Nearly pointless filter tinkering

Nearly pointless filter tinkering

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Discussion

sadako

Original Poster:

7,080 posts

239 months

Saturday 26th February 2005
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Gazboy said:


They don't work, as it horrificly disrupts the airflow under the lid, and stops hot air escaping through the vents.


Why am I not suprised. '2 draws air in from the sides and out the top. Putting air in the top is silly.

jap-car

611 posts

251 months

Sunday 27th February 2005
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DeltaFox said:
If you could physically get the spot welder in there, then sure, no problem at all.
So long as the two panels are stripped to bare metal where youll be spotting, i cant see a problem.
You could even manage to spot the arch flanges as the manufacturers do and again no distortion at all.
The seal in between the sheets (where they rust) can be painted with a weld thru type seam sealer first,ie you can weld it with the seam sealer in position(get the right product though, has to be Weld thru type) so therell be no reocurrence of the dreaded tin-worm after.
Id not even think about brazing or using any kind of flame welding as itll just put so much heat into the job that itll be all over the place once youve finished, especially on large panels.
As regards using small panels to fabricate the arch shape, yeah can do it that way as well. You can either fit them overlapping slightly with a joggled edge (preferred for me as itll be almost flush) or simply overlap a flat panel and use a millimeter or 2 skim of filler over it to finish.
The choice being whichever is the easiest in your case.
Ive done a fair bit of this kind of metal bashing and i wish id actually gone out and bought a spot welder at the time..it makes some jobs so simple plus you can also use it for fabbing up brackets, boxing, transmission tunnels etc...so easy to use, all you need is a little skill with the materials and the rest is time and imagination.



>> Edited by DeltaFox on Saturday 26th February 14:54


Interesting information - a bit off topic but I’m sure it will interest sadako when he gets to his arches.

So would you recommend an overlapped (whether joggled or not) joint rather than a butt joint? Another advantage of a joggle is that it would stiffen the free edge and reduce heat distortion. Would a highly skilled metal-worker use the same technique or would he select a butt as he would be able to control heat input much better and it would be more like the original panel?

Thanks for the info,

Robert



>> Edited by jap-car on Sunday 27th February 09:14

DeltaFox

3,839 posts

233 months

Sunday 27th February 2005
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Butt welding has its place but not in this case. The overlapped joint will be stronger and less likely to get distorted by the minute heat input from even a spot welder.
Id go for the joggled and overlapped joints everytime where possible. Itll give a better finish and youll know theres no possiblity of a crack propogating thru any filler material(and paint) you apply over the joint as itll not move via expansion/contraction either.


jap-car

611 posts

251 months

Sunday 27th February 2005
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DeltaFox said:
Butt welding has its place but not in this case. The overlapped joint will be stronger and less likely to get distorted by the minute heat input from even a spot welder.
Id go for the joggled and overlapped joints everytime where possible. Itll give a better finish and youll know theres no possiblity of a crack propogating thru any filler material(and paint) you apply over the joint as itll not move via expansion/contraction either.




Excellent, I will buy myself a joggler and possibly even a spot-welder. I'm feeling more enthusiastic about doing the rear arches properly now.

Thanks, Robert

sadako

Original Poster:

7,080 posts

239 months

Sunday 27th February 2005
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Not enturely sure what the "Denso" box does now, cant see any wires going to it.