Any zc32 Suzuki swift sport users?
Discussion
Garett said:
Has anyone changed the gear knob on theirs, I've come from an MX-5 so the shift doesn't come close on the swift. I know you can replace the rubber bushes on the shifters as they wear out over time so maybe worth doing this at the same time.
Can anyone recommend something readily available that offers an improvement over standard?
The ZC31 had a quick shift option from CTC but the only option for the ZC32 is from Japan and I think needs a few mods to work on the UK spec. They also cost £600+ last time I checked.Can anyone recommend something readily available that offers an improvement over standard?
Gearbox oil can help. Lots of people like Redline.
I find mine pretty good once it’s warm but it’s definitely not a great shift. I had a lowly 1.5glx swift before the 32 and the shift on that even with 90k miles on it was far better. I don’t know why Suzuki couldn’t do better with it from the factory.
Some people find a heavier knob helps….
I like the look of that type r knob, there's one on eBay for around £20 that I might take a punt on and see what it's like, can't expect much for the money.
I have already changed the oil to the redline stuff, it improves things slightly but still feels a bit plasticky, maybe I should investigate the state of the bushes too.
I have already changed the oil to the redline stuff, it improves things slightly but still feels a bit plasticky, maybe I should investigate the state of the bushes too.
this is the one i ordered
https://www.amazon.co.uk/ENET-Silver-Aluminum-Manu...
keep in mind that honda type r knobs have different thread (m10x1.5) instead of the m12x1.25 that suzukis use.
Thing i did that improved the gearchange was using some lubricant on the shifter 'ball' since the oem one looked like dry toothpaste.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/ENET-Silver-Aluminum-Manu...
keep in mind that honda type r knobs have different thread (m10x1.5) instead of the m12x1.25 that suzukis use.
Thing i did that improved the gearchange was using some lubricant on the shifter 'ball' since the oem one looked like dry toothpaste.
bapsport said:
this is the one i ordered
https://www.amazon.co.uk/ENET-Silver-Aluminum-Manu...
keep in mind that honda type r knobs have different thread (m10x1.5) instead of the m12x1.25 that suzukis use.
Thing i did that improved the gearchange was using some lubricant on the shifter 'ball' since the oem one looked like dry toothpaste.
Does that work with the Suzuki reverse lockout or do you need to modify that too? https://www.amazon.co.uk/ENET-Silver-Aluminum-Manu...
keep in mind that honda type r knobs have different thread (m10x1.5) instead of the m12x1.25 that suzukis use.
Thing i did that improved the gearchange was using some lubricant on the shifter 'ball' since the oem one looked like dry toothpaste.
Can anyone comment on the state of my plugs? They have been in the car 5 years and are Bosch items. They look ok to me, but the threads were black and slightly wet, didn't smell of fuel so I presume it's condensation and not oil? The car hasn't been run for probably 10 days at this point.
I have replaced them with Denso IKH20TT which are an equivalent to the recommended NGK but half the price at carparts4less, which was actually fulfilled and delivered by my local ECP depot the very next day!
I have replaced them with Denso IKH20TT which are an equivalent to the recommended NGK but half the price at carparts4less, which was actually fulfilled and delivered by my local ECP depot the very next day!
Look ok to me.
I also replaced with the Denso TT option. They have been performing well although I’ve bumped into comments from a minority saying they had had issues with one of the electrodes falling off.
Denso are second billing to NGK but still a quality brand and the twin tip iridium makes sense to me. For the price they are a good option IMO.
That being said I reckon the original iridium NGK are good for 100k miles and don’t need doing anywhere near the 36k service schedule.
I also replaced with the Denso TT option. They have been performing well although I’ve bumped into comments from a minority saying they had had issues with one of the electrodes falling off.
Denso are second billing to NGK but still a quality brand and the twin tip iridium makes sense to me. For the price they are a good option IMO.
That being said I reckon the original iridium NGK are good for 100k miles and don’t need doing anywhere near the 36k service schedule.
I paid £5.3k for mine in March, 62 plate on 78k miles, a few jobs, wheel refurb and tyres took it up to a shade over £6k. It was perfectly usable as I bought it so the jobs I had done weren't strictly necessary.
Used car prices seem to be weakening slightly and I probably paid slightly over the odds, can't see why you can't get a usable example for £5k.
Used car prices seem to be weakening slightly and I probably paid slightly over the odds, can't see why you can't get a usable example for £5k.
Garett said:
I paid £5.3k for mine in March, 62 plate on 78k miles
I think you did well there.The chat on the Faceache owners forums suggests higher prices, and there are only ten (of around 250) listed at or below £5k between a well known auction site and a well known car marketplace.
Yours is a very early one, but it looks like it scrubbed up well.
FWIW, if your budget is tight it's probably better to compromise on mileage than condition or service history. If you're buying an early one check that the instrument needles illuminate.
These soak up the miles (so I've heard, mine is a low mileage example). One of the FB forum admins has one that is up to around 180k IIRC. Most serious issues seem to be down to neglecting oil services or abuse.
These soak up the miles (so I've heard, mine is a low mileage example). One of the FB forum admins has one that is up to around 180k IIRC. Most serious issues seem to be down to neglecting oil services or abuse.
Thanks for the replies - I’m fairly familiar with them as I had a non-sport model a few years back, then test drove the older Sport model and loved it, but bought a Panda 100HP.
The Swifts in general do seem quite bulletproof if you stick to regular maintenance. I would be fussy and be looking for a 5-door one.
The Swifts in general do seem quite bulletproof if you stick to regular maintenance. I would be fussy and be looking for a 5-door one.
trickywoo said:
Garett said:
Has anyone changed the gear knob on theirs, I've come from an MX-5 so the shift doesn't come close on the swift. I know you can replace the rubber bushes on the shifters as they wear out over time so maybe worth doing this at the same time.
Can anyone recommend something readily available that offers an improvement over standard?
The ZC31 had a quick shift option from CTC but the only option for the ZC32 is from Japan and I think needs a few mods to work on the UK spec. They also cost £600+ last time I checked.Can anyone recommend something readily available that offers an improvement over standard?
Gearbox oil can help. Lots of people like Redline.
I find mine pretty good once it’s warm but it’s definitely not a great shift. I had a lowly 1.5glx swift before the 32 and the shift on that even with 90k miles on it was far better. I don’t know why Suzuki couldn’t do better with it from the factory.
Some people find a heavier knob helps….
https://www.rsrs.jp/en/zc32s/powertrain/racingquic...
I have ordered stuff from them for my 33s and they are really helpful to deal with, it will probably be £30 shipping mind you.
What exhaust options are there? My OEM system has started blowing on the join between back box and centre pipe. Now I'm debating my options, the Blitz Nur Spec from CTC looks beautiful but I'm not about to drop a grand on an exhaust for it. Also don't want it sound too noisy, it's a daily and small hot hatches like this with loud exhausts just make you appear to be having some kind of crisis when driven by a (nearly) 40 year old man.
Garett said:
What exhaust options are there?
Getting a custom pipe made seems popular. There are plenty of exhaust fabricators who can do it and tends to be way cheaper than a branded off the shelf option.Getting rid of the back box but keeping the resonator is popular for more noise.
trickywoo said:
Garett said:
What exhaust options are there?
Getting a custom pipe made seems popular. There are plenty of exhaust fabricators who can do it and tends to be way cheaper than a branded off the shelf option.Getting rid of the back box but keeping the resonator is popular for more noise.
Miltek do have backboxes though at £500 ish and fitted with a remus centre pipe (from ctc about £150) makes a great tone as thats what i've gone to. The back box is large so reduces the lack of mid box.
Thanks, seems like a sensible solution. At the moment the exhaust is basically inaudible so a touch more noise wouldn't be unwelcome but I want to avoid it sounding too loud. I've lived the life with a decatted MX-5 and although it was fun at the time, I don't have any great desire to go back to that level of noise.
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