Any zc32 Suzuki swift sport users?

[LukeBrown66]

I am looking at sprinting, so need something performance based but has to be in the Blue Book, so stuff like Nankakngs really good stuff are banned, I think Michies are there and for a time buffed ones where the thing to have

[entropy]

205/45/17 on the ZC31 is a must as there's too much body roll on 195s as its a tall car but will be penalized with stiffer ride.

Rear brakes system rust. Has the notorious Teves ABS module but you can send it off to ECU Testing for refurbishing for a few hundred notes.

[ldub]

I'm back in a ZC32S!

It's a great compromise of fun, frugality and comfort

I did the gearbox bushes for the cradle and the shifter bracket; these helped but the shift still needed improving. Castrol Syntrans now in plus yellow/road Powerflex lower rear mount inserts fitted; it's much smoother and more direct/accurate now! The inserts also make the engine sound a bit gruffer (in a positive way, already had a K&N panel filter, no other mods) and the drivetrain response to inputs is much improved; well recommended. With a/c on, it's a bit more buzzy, but it's a worthy trade off and poly inserts tend to settle after a few weeks. I'll probably hold off the single upper gearbox mount insert, as in previous cars, this has make the NVH balance less daily driver friendly.

It's got full Suzuki service history and that included a new rear damper a couple of years ago. Yep, just the one! I'm definitely going to replace the rear dampers as I subscribe to replacing suspension components in pairs and this SSS doesn't seem as well planted in medium speed corners as the last one.

Considering options for this. Tempting to get a set of ST X as more comfortable by reports than B14s and cheaper too! I'm undecided whether to keep stock height as no clearance or bottoming out concerns and it is a daily incl speed bumps etc. Replacing with B6 or Koni sport rears, then seeing how it goes with the original front shocks and springs is also tempting (just under 40k miles now). Anyone with experience of ST X, B6 or Koni Sport?

Also going to fit camber bolts, but no local garages offer anything more than "tracking" aka front toe adjustment. As the bolts only add up to -1.5, might just get them fitted at maximum neg camber on both sides, have the tracking done for now. Anyone have much experience with camber bolts and optimal fast road alignment settings on the ZC32S?

[trickywoo]

I have no direct suspension experience but have followed any comments I come across.

Most people who want to keep close to the standard suspension comfort but wanting adjustability go for Tein Street coilovers.

From what I’ve heard Bilstein B6 can be quite harsh.

I think unless you want to go lower you are probably best sticking to standard replacement dampers and looking at Hardrace arb options.

[PaulGT3]

Can anyone recommend any OE spec rear dampers or is getting a pair from the main dealer recommended? Our 2014 60k ones are starting to weep oil.

[gweaver]

One of mine failed early and the advice from CTC was that the OE dampers are better and more sophisticated than most of the aftermarket ones. I also rang Bilstein and they don't do an OE spec damper for the Sport.

[ldub]

trickywoo said:

I have no direct suspension experience but have followed any comments I come across.

Most people who want to keep close to the standard suspension comfort but wanting adjustability go for Tein Street coilovers.

From what I’ve heard Bilstein B6 can be quite harsh.

I think unless you want to go lower you are probably best sticking to standard replacement dampers and looking at Hardrace arb options.

Thanks @trickywoo! This is just the sort of reply I was hoping for

Liaising with CTC & Larkspeed, the Koni sport rears are no longer available (but can still buy the full Koni Sport kit with the H&R springs) and there is a very long wait for Bilsteins (circa 6months or more) , ST X have a shorter lead time, but still several weeks

I'd bought the Cusco RARB when I had my previous ZC32S, but sold the car before fitting. The Hardrace RARB seems to be very similar to the Cusco, but with smaller side mountings. I'm tempted by the Ultra Racing RARB as it's one piece rather than lots of bolts; lead time of 3months+ though

I've now ordered what I hope is the perfect solution for my needs; replace factory dampers (and springs) plus the bonus of a modest reduction (25mm F & R) in arch gap without causing issues (& excellent value, with the whole kit coming in at less than two factory rear dampers!) https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/vogtland-club-lowe... the Chrome Silicone Alloy springs are an exciting development!

[PJ_Parsons]

I have the Bilstein B14's on mine. It has Hardrace, wishbone bushes, top mounts and roll centre adjuster. It also has a Powerflex camber bolt. Mine is dropped about 25mm, with about 2 degrees of negative camber. The car is mainly a road car that does about five track days a year. The B14's are very good on the road and despite a higher spring rate the damping is way better than standard, especially at higher speeds. Only on battered urban roads in the damping worse than standard. It is an excellent road and track compromise.

I would say this to anyone looking to tweak the suspension on the Swift. First, the roll centre adjuster is very important, don't skimp on this. Secondly, get it fitted by somebody who understands vehicle geometry. My B14's were fitted by Chevron, in Stafford. They are normally a Subaru, rally specialist but the owner, Simon Stanley, knows his stuff and is very experienced with B14's.

[nosuchuser]

Unpleasant surprise last week, the bush for the gear lever linkage in our 2014 24k miles Sport gave up while my wife was driving in London. 3 hours later, car was recovered home by Green Flag.

Bit of investigation, found this https://cuztoms.co.uk/products/gear-linkage-bushin...

15 mins to fit, mostly spent fiddling around removing trim, all sorted.

The old bush had become brittle and broken up, slightly bemused given the age and mileage - I've had the same thing in my old 95 aero but that's a 2003 100k+ dog/bike/tip wagon....

[trickywoo]

nosuchuser said:

Unpleasant surprise last week, the bush for the gear lever linkage in our 2014 24k miles Sport gave up while my wife was driving in London. 3 hours later, car was recovered home by Green Flag.

Bit of investigation, found this https://cuztoms.co.uk/products/gear-linkage-bushin...

15 mins to fit, mostly spent fiddling around removing trim, all sorted.

The old bush had become brittle and broken up, slightly bemused given the age and mileage - I've had the same thing in my old 95 aero but that's a 2003 100k+ dog/bike/tip wagon....

They all do it. I had a pair fail on a 25k mile example.

The bad news is that there is an identical bush at the gearbox end that will be in similarly poor condition. The slightly better news is that its quicker to get at if a little trickier to fit than the gear stick end. Look behind the battery and on top of the gearbox and you'll see it.

[nosuchuser]

trickywoo said:

They all do it. I had a pair fail on a 25k mile example.

The bad news is that there is an identical bush at the gearbox end that will be in similarly poor condition. The slightly better news is that its quicker to get at if a little trickier to fit than the gear stick end. Look behind the battery and on top of the gearbox and you'll see it.

Yeah thats on the list to have a look at but thanks for the reminder

[PJ_Parsons]

I'd already brought the bush kit as it's a known fault. Although my gearbox has been working okay, reading this thread last night reminded me to take a look at the bushing. Lucky I did as the old bush had broken up and the linkage could have gone at any time. Now time to have a look at the gearbox end of the linkage. My car is 54k and 2014.

[ldub]

PJ_Parsons said:

I have the Bilstein B14's on mine. It has Hardrace, wishbone bushes, top mounts and roll centre adjuster. It also has a Powerflex camber bolt. Mine is dropped about 25mm, with about 2 degrees of negative camber. The car is mainly a road car that does about five track days a year. The B14's are very good on the road and despite a higher spring rate the damping is way better than standard, especially at higher speeds. Only on battered urban roads in the damping worse than standard. It is an excellent road and track compromise.

I would say this to anyone looking to tweak the suspension on the Swift. First, the roll centre adjuster is very important, don't skimp on this. Secondly, get it fitted by somebody who understands vehicle geometry. My B14's were fitted by Chevron, in Stafford. They are normally a Subaru, rally specialist but the owner, Simon Stanley, knows his stuff and is very experienced with B14's.

This is great info and advice, thank you!

I'd heard the B14s were a bit form for a daily but have had them on a Clio 200, they were a bit firm but not harsh/crashy. As it's unlikely I'll do any track days, I'm going to give the Vogtlands a go!

Sounds like a good drop 25mm Previous advice I'd had was to go with RCAs if dropping more than 30mm. Not far off that and 10yr / 40k old, so refreshing the ball joints with RCAs makes sense and sounds like they've made a big difference in your experience. I had Hardrace RCAs on an Integra and the rubber boots failed quite quickly, replaced with Buddyclub boots.

Do you have a link to the Hardrace top mounts?

Do you know how much toe you have?

Do you have any adjustment at the rear?

Thank you!

Ps I also did those linkage bushes, the shifter end was very deteriorated but the gearbox end was in vgc, I did both anyway. Definitely recommend uprating the shifter base bushes whilst you've got the centre console removed. The gearbox end shifter bracket bushes involve a lot more effort!

[PJ_Parsons]

I did check the gearbox end bushes and from what I could see, they appeared okay (for now.) I can't remember the toe setting. However, the camber was 1.8 degrees on a 25mm drop. The B14's are height adjustable, meaning like anything adjustable, they need to be done correctly. I think the Vogtlands,are fixed in height. So, lowering 25mm will give the rears a natural 1.8 degrees camber, meaning you will not need to adjust the rear. So, match with 1.8 on the front and this is ideal for road use.

Top mounts and RCA came from VIP Motorsport. Top mount are £60. Search for:-

Suzuki Swift ZC31 HARDRACE Reinforced Strut Mount 2Pcs/Set

They will fit the ZC32, even though it says ZC31.

RCA is a scarier £178.50, so you will have to decide if it worth it. Search for:-

Suzuki Swift ZC32 HARDRACE Roll Center Adjuster 2Pcs/Set

Bushes, are a pain in the bum to fit. So, you may be better off with genuine Suzuki lower arms, £300 for the pair. £119 if you can fit the Hardrace bushings

PS Also did the drop links, again, used Hardrace ones for £60.

Edited by PJ_Parsons on Friday 4th November 18:00

[Garett]

Has anyone had to replace the steering rack in theirs? Mines knocking and grinds a bit during tight manoeuvres, not an MOT fail yet though but will need addressing sooner rather than later.

£630 from Suzuki, or my local garage can do one fitted for £330, unsure if it's a new or refurb though. Any advice?

[gweaver]

IIRC a couple of Swift owners in the Caribbean and Brazil have had to replace their steering racks. I think both have rough roads.

[Ilovejapcrap]

trickywoo said:

nosuchuser said:

Unpleasant surprise last week, the bush for the gear lever linkage in our 2014 24k miles Sport gave up while my wife was driving in London. 3 hours later, car was recovered home by Green Flag.

Bit of investigation, found this https://cuztoms.co.uk/products/gear-linkage-bushin...

15 mins to fit, mostly spent fiddling around removing trim, all sorted.

The old bush had become brittle and broken up, slightly bemused given the age and mileage - I've had the same thing in my old 95 aero but that's a 2003 100k+ dog/bike/tip wagon....

They all do it. I had a pair fail on a 25k mile example.

The bad news is that there is an identical bush at the gearbox end that will be in similarly poor condition. The slightly better news is that its quicker to get at if a little trickier to fit than the gear stick end. Look behind the battery and on top of the gearbox and you'll see it.

Good to know. How much is a new cable ? As they do seem expensive for a bit of plastic.

[PJ_Parsons]

I seem to remember a new cable is a couple of hundred quid with fiddly fitting. It will last as long as the original. The bushings are expensive because they are effective, easy to fit and you have no other sensibly priced option. Capitalism at work! But this does save the customer loads too.

[ldub]

PJ_Parsons said:

I did check the gearbox end bushes and from what I could see, they appeared okay (for now.) I can't remember the toe setting. However, the camber was 1.8 degrees on a 25mm drop. The B14's are height adjustable, meaning like anything adjustable, they need to be done correctly. I think the Vogtlands,are fixed in height. So, lowering 25mm will give the rears a natural 1.8 degrees camber, meaning you will not need to adjust the rear. So, match with 1.8 on the front and this is ideal for road use.

Top mounts and RCA came from VIP Motorsport. Top mount are £60. Search for:-

Suzuki Swift ZC31 HARDRACE Reinforced Strut Mount 2Pcs/Set

They will fit the ZC32, even though it says ZC31.

RCA is a scarier £178.50, so you will have to decide if it worth it. Search for:-

Suzuki Swift ZC32 HARDRACE Roll Center Adjuster 2Pcs/Set

Bushes, are a pain in the bum to fit. So, you may be better off with genuine Suzuki lower arms, £300 for the pair. £119 if you can fit the Hardrace bushings

PS Also did the drop links, again, used Hardrace ones for £60.

That's really helpful, thank you!

I've ordered the top mounts and deliberating RCAs / wishbone bushes; the caster adjustable bushes are tempting!
(Hardrace sell their wishbones with bushes fitted for a similar price to the Suzuki ones, or with RCAs fitted, with a 2-3w lead time)

Did you fit new axle +/- other bolts?

Did you consider adjustable drop links with lowering, akin to the use of RCAs? The Hardrace standard ones look like a decent upgrade and good value.

Do you have a RARB or FSB as well?

[PJ_Parsons]

The original bolts were okay and were reused. Adjustable drop links were not needed as it was only a fairly minor drop. The Hardrace, wishbones with the RCA and bushings may well be a good buy. They are £560ish but mean you will not have to fight the old bushings. They were long term out of stock when I was buying parts. R's Racing in Japan also do a similar product; it will have to be imported though. Caster adjustment could be helpful, but for a road only car, how far do you want to go?

My intention was to refresh the suspension on my Swift and make it a better road car. But it was always primarily a road car and doing the odd track day was secondary. The set up I have is mild for the track, but does work well on wet winter track days. As a road car though, a less is more setup is what I would go for. The Vogtland shocks and replacing some worn suspension parts plus a geometry by somebody knowledgable is what I would do. I have never used the stiffer anti roll bars but would worry that they would make it too stiff for the road.

The other modification I would do is the Reidy/CTC remap, which helps the car to pull better through the whole rev range.