Any zc32 Suzuki swift sport users?
Discussion
PJ_Parsons said:
The original bolts were okay and were reused. Adjustable drop links were not needed as it was only a fairly minor drop. The Hardrace, wishbones with the RCA and bushings may well be a good buy. They are £560ish but mean you will not have to fight the old bushings. They were long term out of stock when I was buying parts. R's Racing in Japan also do a similar product; it will have to be imported though. Caster adjustment could be helpful, but for a road only car, how far do you want to go?
My intention was to refresh the suspension on my Swift and make it a better road car. But it was always primarily a road car and doing the odd track day was secondary. The set up I have is mild for the track, but does work well on wet winter track days. As a road car though, a less is more setup is what I would go for. The Vogtland shocks and replacing some worn suspension parts plus a geometry by somebody knowledgable is what I would do. I have never used the stiffer anti roll bars but would worry that they would make it too stiff for the road.
The other modification I would do is the Reidy/CTC remap, which helps the car to pull better through the whole rev range.
Great advice @PJ_Parsons! Easy to get carried away; I've ordered the top mounts, will order the droplinks and I'll get it set up properly. My local Suzuki garage have done a full inspection of all the bushes etc and report they are all in good condition, so I'll hold off the rest for now as just for road and predominantly commuting. My intention was to refresh the suspension on my Swift and make it a better road car. But it was always primarily a road car and doing the odd track day was secondary. The set up I have is mild for the track, but does work well on wet winter track days. As a road car though, a less is more setup is what I would go for. The Vogtland shocks and replacing some worn suspension parts plus a geometry by somebody knowledgable is what I would do. I have never used the stiffer anti roll bars but would worry that they would make it too stiff for the road.
The other modification I would do is the Reidy/CTC remap, which helps the car to pull better through the whole rev range.
The remap is very tempting! I was hoping to get this done whilst visiting the folks down south but their dyno will be closed between Christmas & New Year. Debating whether to go there to get their standard ecu flash as my car is stock bar a K&N air filter.
Anyone know of any tuners in the north that can remap the SSS?
I had my remap done during COVID, so the dyno was not available. I posted off the ECU to Matthew Reidy, of Reidy remaps, he flashed the ECU and sent it back. I would favour a Reidy/CTC map by post over a generic remap by someone else. Don’t expect fireworks from the remap, it’s not a turbo car, but it does make the Swift pull better. Just don’t do what I did and send the ECU via DPD. They decided to leave the ECU in the hedge outside of Matthew Reidy’s house…..it rained!
Edited by PJ_Parsons on Sunday 13th November 22:28
Ilovejapcrap said:
Anyone see the link to the fella with the newer swift sport (mk3)who Intends to tune it with CTC remap etc and trying for 200bhp/ tonne.
Only read it other day and can't find it.
You may be best following CTC’s own documenting of developments to their 33.Only read it other day and can't find it.
Car weighs under 1000kgs so it only needs 200bhp. Last I saw they were well over that and had rolling acceleration times in road overtaking type scenarios comparable with a current standard skyline.
Ilovejapcrap said:
Anyone see the link to the fella with the newer swift sport (mk3)who Intends to tune it with CTC remap etc and trying for 200bhp/ tonne.
Only read it other day and can't find it.
My one perhaps?Only read it other day and can't find it.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
xu5 said:
Ilovejapcrap said:
Anyone see the link to the fella with the newer swift sport (mk3)who Intends to tune it with CTC remap etc and trying for 200bhp/ tonne.
Only read it other day and can't find it.
My one perhaps?Only read it other day and can't find it.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Jakey123 said:
I did post a separate thread but;
Any shock recommendations for a ZC31?
One of my front is leaking, but it's hard to find equivalent aftermarket parts and OEM from suzuki are 175+VAT for a single front shock.
Bilstein B4 are the common aftermarket choice. Should be half that 175 or less.Any shock recommendations for a ZC31?
One of my front is leaking, but it's hard to find equivalent aftermarket parts and OEM from suzuki are 175+VAT for a single front shock.
The factory monroe shocks are good and if you can find the part number I bet you could find them a lot cheaper.
Eddy_444 said:
Has anyone given “sound deadening” a go on their Swift? Is it worth the effort to reduce some of the road noise?
Most of the noise you hear on a 32 model is wind in my experience and you can’t do much about it.Tyres can play a part and I’ve found Goodyear f1 assy 5 to be super quiet.
What tyres are you on?
As well as the disintegrating gear linkage bushes it’s worth keeping an eye on the rubber air intake elbow that goes from the maf / bottom of the air box to the throttle body.
They crack around both jubilee clip joins and while quite thick material and an outside crack hasn’t necessarily gone all the way through it’s worth changing on an older version say 2015 and before.
Part number is 13881-54LA0 about £30 delivered.
Easy diy although better when rubber is warm.
They crack around both jubilee clip joins and while quite thick material and an outside crack hasn’t necessarily gone all the way through it’s worth changing on an older version say 2015 and before.
Part number is 13881-54LA0 about £30 delivered.
Easy diy although better when rubber is warm.
trickywoo said:
As well as the disintegrating gear linkage bushes it’s worth keeping an eye on the rubber air intake elbow that goes from the maf / bottom of the air box to the throttle body.
They crack around both jubilee clip joins and while quite thick material and an outside crack hasn’t necessarily gone all the way through it’s worth changing on an older version say 2015 and before.
Part number is 13881-54LA0 about £30 delivered.
Easy diy although better when rubber is warm.
Good call, will check it out. ThanksThey crack around both jubilee clip joins and while quite thick material and an outside crack hasn’t necessarily gone all the way through it’s worth changing on an older version say 2015 and before.
Part number is 13881-54LA0 about £30 delivered.
Easy diy although better when rubber is warm.
Anyone have any reviews on the Ride quality and general NVH? I had a ZC31 before and it seemed really stiff from factory. could feel every bump. Thinking of a ZC32 as a fun little daily but would like for it to be a tad softer and would be nice if it was a bit quieter in the cabin for the longer runs. I know tyres can make a big difference too.
I was thinking of maybe smaller wheels and more sidewall tyres, or even just aftermarket shocks and springs if anyone has any experience with that?
Currently on an NC MX5 which rides amazingly soft for potholes and bumps but handles amazing too. This has Bilstein shocks and maybe H&R springs.
I was thinking of maybe smaller wheels and more sidewall tyres, or even just aftermarket shocks and springs if anyone has any experience with that?
Currently on an NC MX5 which rides amazingly soft for potholes and bumps but handles amazing too. This has Bilstein shocks and maybe H&R springs.
dapper said:
Anyone have any reviews on the Ride quality and general NVH? I had a ZC31 before and it seemed really stiff from factory. could feel every bump. Thinking of a ZC32 as a fun little daily but would like for it to be a tad softer and would be nice if it was a bit quieter in the cabin for the longer runs. I know tyres can make a big difference too.
I was thinking of maybe smaller wheels and more sidewall tyres, or even just aftermarket shocks and springs if anyone has any experience with that?
Currently on an NC MX5 which rides amazingly soft for potholes and bumps but handles amazing too. This has Bilstein shocks and maybe H&R springs.
My 32 has a good ride, I'm on 205/45/17 which are a lot nicer than 195/45.I was thinking of maybe smaller wheels and more sidewall tyres, or even just aftermarket shocks and springs if anyone has any experience with that?
Currently on an NC MX5 which rides amazingly soft for potholes and bumps but handles amazing too. This has Bilstein shocks and maybe H&R springs.
I'm quite sensitive to ride and don't have any complaints with the Swift even on bad roads.
If you go down to 16 inch wheels it gets even better.
trickywoo said:
My 32 has a good ride, I'm on 205/45/17 which are a lot nicer than 195/45.
I'm quite sensitive to ride and don't have any complaints with the Swift even on bad roads.
If you go down to 16 inch wheels it gets even better.
Very quick reply, thanks. I think I need to go test drive one and find out! Planning to maybe do some road trips into Europe at some point and feel the extra space over the mx5 would be welcomed, as well as cruise control and better mpg.I'm quite sensitive to ride and don't have any complaints with the Swift even on bad roads.
If you go down to 16 inch wheels it gets even better.
dapper said:
and better mpg.
I think Japanese cars have a disadvantage with fuel consumption for whatever reason. The Swift isn't good for the specs. Realistically you won't better 40mpg. The computer will say high 40s when the reality is mid to high 30s.My long term average is about 37mpg and that is majority steady a / big b road running. I used to get 47mpg in an original 1.7 Ford Puma (similar power and weight) on the same roads.
An MX-5 NC has more sophisticated suspension than a ZC32S, but I think the Swift still manages to have a better ride. The ride comfort of the ZC32S is a lot better than the ZC31S, but there is still wind and tyre noise at motorway speeds (maybe not too bad compared to MX-5 though).
I also think the engine in the Swift feels more eager than the 2.0 NC, despite being 20% down on capacity and power.
I also think the engine in the Swift feels more eager than the 2.0 NC, despite being 20% down on capacity and power.
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