Any zc32 Suzuki swift sport users?
Discussion
gweaver said:
I don't think it sounds like valve clearances either.
It may be worth getting a second opinion from a different dealer or an independent. I'd have thought that a good mechanic with a stethoscope could diagnose that fairly quickly.
Thanks mate, I might just do that if there is no improvement after they've looked at it. It may be worth getting a second opinion from a different dealer or an independent. I'd have thought that a good mechanic with a stethoscope could diagnose that fairly quickly.
The only thing that gets me is the sound started happening straight after the service? I don't understand how that could happen?!
IMHE, mechanics (and particularly main dealer mechanics) are prone to f****** up whatever they touch.
If the bad noise started when the car was last serviced, I would start by thinking what the mechanic had to touch during that service.
Could be a belt, could be valve clearances (doubtful though), could be something different and completely incidental.
If the bad noise started when the car was last serviced, I would start by thinking what the mechanic had to touch during that service.
Could be a belt, could be valve clearances (doubtful though), could be something different and completely incidental.
Went to 2 independent garages today, one was said it definitely wasn't the tappets but was also non-comittal saying the noise is definitely coming from by the drive belt but it could be one of 4 things: alternator (everything is charging okay if that makes a difference) water pump, tensioner or a bearing. He said the noise wasn't too bad and he would advise to continue as normal until the noise gets louder, however I can fit it in with him sooner if I want.
The other thinks it's definitely the water pump, he has quoted me £180 for the whole job.
Waiting to take it into Suzuki as unless I drive it there myself, they won't drive it and want a low loader to collect it instead.
The other thinks it's definitely the water pump, he has quoted me £180 for the whole job.
Waiting to take it into Suzuki as unless I drive it there myself, they won't drive it and want a low loader to collect it instead.
Galactic Grey, is the nicest colour in my opinion. I’ve owned my ZC32S for 3 and a bit years. I had an Ignis Sport for 11 years before that. I managed to find a used Miltek exhaust and had the CTC remap, courtesy of Reidy. The performance gains were impressive.
I was wondering if any of you could help me with tweaking the suspension on my car? My car is mostly used on the road at the moment. I have used it for the odd trackday, but will do many more once I retire my RX8 track car. The stock suspension is quite good and delivers a good comfort, handling compromise, but is not quite there for the track. I’d like something that works for the road and track. My RX8 has a Bilstein, Eibach setup like the B12 Pro Kit that works on road and track and is comfortable. The suspension kits that I’ve looked at are Bilstein B12 (£560), Bilstein B14 (£688) and Bilstein B6 (£410.) The B6 are just sports dampers that work with standard springs and standard ride height. The B12 and B14 are not dissimilar. The B14 has slightly stiffer springs and is height adjustable. I’m not keen on adjustable coilovers as I don’t want to have to fiddle with settings. My RX8 experience has taught me that a fast road setup with fixed dampers can work very well on track especially in the wet.
Has anyone had experience of these setups? I don’t want a hardcore track car and am worried that I might make my car quite unyielding on the road.
I was wondering if any of you could help me with tweaking the suspension on my car? My car is mostly used on the road at the moment. I have used it for the odd trackday, but will do many more once I retire my RX8 track car. The stock suspension is quite good and delivers a good comfort, handling compromise, but is not quite there for the track. I’d like something that works for the road and track. My RX8 has a Bilstein, Eibach setup like the B12 Pro Kit that works on road and track and is comfortable. The suspension kits that I’ve looked at are Bilstein B12 (£560), Bilstein B14 (£688) and Bilstein B6 (£410.) The B6 are just sports dampers that work with standard springs and standard ride height. The B12 and B14 are not dissimilar. The B14 has slightly stiffer springs and is height adjustable. I’m not keen on adjustable coilovers as I don’t want to have to fiddle with settings. My RX8 experience has taught me that a fast road setup with fixed dampers can work very well on track especially in the wet.
Has anyone had experience of these setups? I don’t want a hardcore track car and am worried that I might make my car quite unyielding on the road.
I’m interested in others experience of the B6 too.
From the research I’ve done either hardly anyone fits them or they have nothing good to say about them as there are no reviews anywhere.
The B12 would be your best option given your criteria. Pretty much everything else will be coilover based.
From the research I’ve done either hardly anyone fits them or they have nothing good to say about them as there are no reviews anywhere.
The B12 would be your best option given your criteria. Pretty much everything else will be coilover based.
I looked into these when one of my OE dampers failed early.
From memory, Bilstein list the same B6 items for the standard Swift too. I rang them and they confirmed that they don't do a Sport specific item, so who knows how the rates compare to the Swift Sport original equipment.
I think Chris at CTC advised that the OE Sport damper is superior to the B4 (or maybe B6?) anyway.
I think the other Bilstein dampers are hard and harder. If you want ride as well as handling the answer might be Ohlins, or whatever else they fit to the Ring Swifts.
From memory, Bilstein list the same B6 items for the standard Swift too. I rang them and they confirmed that they don't do a Sport specific item, so who knows how the rates compare to the Swift Sport original equipment.
I think Chris at CTC advised that the OE Sport damper is superior to the B4 (or maybe B6?) anyway.
I think the other Bilstein dampers are hard and harder. If you want ride as well as handling the answer might be Ohlins, or whatever else they fit to the Ring Swifts.
Edited by gweaver on Wednesday 26th May 14:10
I'm surprised that the B6 dampers would not be an upgrade over the OEM Monroe shocks. Bilstein, do the B4, which is a basic OEM replacement. Are you sure that it wasn't those, CTC were talking about? The few mentions that I have heard abot the B6's is that they do provide improved damping and reduce roll but retain the original spring rate. The B6 is used on the rear of the B12 Pro Kit, with the shorter stroke B8 up front. Ohlins and other adjustable suspension seems attractive but you have to set them up correctly. I feel, that needs to be done by a skilled driver for various scenarios like road, dry track, wet track etc. I have enough experience of track driving to know how little I know about car setup. It also worries me that softened off coilovers could be bouncy on the road. I like Bilsteins because they come with a setup already, albeit a compromise. My RX8 has the suspension from the PZ special edition with Bilstein / Eibach matched by Prodrive. It is 60% stiffer but the car is very well damped and comfortable compared to the excellent stock setup. This is what i would like to re-create on my Swift.
I do suspect that these original Monroe, shocks are not at their best for long and may even fail; so shock replacement seems an inevitable part of owning this car.
I do suspect that these original Monroe, shocks are not at their best for long and may even fail; so shock replacement seems an inevitable part of owning this car.
Edited by PJ_Parsons on Wednesday 26th May 10:29
Edited by PJ_Parsons on Wednesday 26th May 10:46
Edited by PJ_Parsons on Wednesday 26th May 10:53
The question for me, are any of these suspension components designed to work with the Swift Sport? Bilstein, claim to test them on the car, really though? The same with these adjustable suspension sets. I suspect they are just manufactured to a spec with spring and damper rates to a computer defined estimate. Hence the reason base setups are not included. As you say, they make it difficult to decide what to buy.
The Mazda I have, had its setup defined by Prodrive, after a year of testing on two cars, on UK roads.
So what did you replace your failed damper with gweaver?
The Mazda I have, had its setup defined by Prodrive, after a year of testing on two cars, on UK roads.
So what did you replace your failed damper with gweaver?
Edited by PJ_Parsons on Wednesday 26th May 15:23
PJ_Parsons said:
So what did you replace your failed damper with gweaver?
I switched main dealers and got a warranty claim approved, as the mileage was only 16k, IIRC. Dealer replaced rear damper with OE damper. I spotted that dealer had fitted OE damper for Swift 1.2. The yellow bump stop and part number gave the game away, as well as perceptible side to side rocking over speed bumps. I whinged at the dealer and they agreed to replace it with OE Swift Sport damper..Whilst on the subject, the same dealer managed to get a claim for badly corroded wheels through, which was a result. Replacement wheels were supplied by Suzuki, and their tyre fitter then proceeded to pierce the paint inside the barrels with his tyre fitting machine. That dealership had a good reputation, but has since closed.
Recently bought a 2017 grey SSS (ZC32S, aka NZ etc!) it's a great compromise of handling and comfort. Fitted BRD shifter base bushes from Chris at CTC (made of Delrin, sits between the Beatrush polyurethane and the Cusco metal ones) this greatly improved the gearchange that was a bit vague (low mileage but play in standard rubber bushes) plus a weighted gearknob to help reduce the notchiness.
There's quite a lot of roll/pitch/dive, so am looking at uprating the springs
@kinker_rocks on this thread fitted H&R springs and found these improved handling and retained comfort but was thinking of upgrading to coilovers for more control; @kinker_rocks any update?
Few mixed reviews of lowering springs/coilovers on sssoc.
Info from websites and contacting manufacturers
H&R
Part number 28931-2
F 38 N/mm (= 3.88 kg/mm)
R 31 N/mm (= 3.16 kg/mm)
F&R -30mm
Progressive
Tein H Tech
SKU86-G1B00
F 3 kg/mm
R 3.6 kg/mm
F -30, R -25
Progressive
Eibach Pro
E10-80-010-01-22
F&R -30
Progressive
Company doesn't give out spring rates
Intriguing the difference in front to rear rates of the H&R and Teins. Does anyone know the stock spring rates?
I've already bought a Cusco rear arb as I want a bit more throttle adjustability and should also help reduce roll. H&R may be better as the rarb will stiffen up the rear, so may suit their combo of higher front spring rates. On the flip side, may be the rarb will compliment the higher rear spring rate on the Teins!
Any first hand experiences with available spring options much appreciated!
There's quite a lot of roll/pitch/dive, so am looking at uprating the springs
@kinker_rocks on this thread fitted H&R springs and found these improved handling and retained comfort but was thinking of upgrading to coilovers for more control; @kinker_rocks any update?
Few mixed reviews of lowering springs/coilovers on sssoc.
Info from websites and contacting manufacturers
H&R
Part number 28931-2
F 38 N/mm (= 3.88 kg/mm)
R 31 N/mm (= 3.16 kg/mm)
F&R -30mm
Progressive
Tein H Tech
SKU86-G1B00
F 3 kg/mm
R 3.6 kg/mm
F -30, R -25
Progressive
Eibach Pro
E10-80-010-01-22
F&R -30
Progressive
Company doesn't give out spring rates
Intriguing the difference in front to rear rates of the H&R and Teins. Does anyone know the stock spring rates?
I've already bought a Cusco rear arb as I want a bit more throttle adjustability and should also help reduce roll. H&R may be better as the rarb will stiffen up the rear, so may suit their combo of higher front spring rates. On the flip side, may be the rarb will compliment the higher rear spring rate on the Teins!
Any first hand experiences with available spring options much appreciated!
Edited by ldub on Friday 4th June 22:08
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