Another MR2 Question - Sorry!
Discussion
Ok, cool.
It probably was in all fairness, but it still pulls well. In any case it's by far the fastest MR2 I've ever sat in.
The only thing it doesn't do well is low rev accelleration. Even in first gear it takes a while to build revs, but so did the others I've driven.
I'm dying to get in on a rolling road. Will they be able to tell me if the ECU is mapped right?
It probably was in all fairness, but it still pulls well. In any case it's by far the fastest MR2 I've ever sat in.
The only thing it doesn't do well is low rev accelleration. Even in first gear it takes a while to build revs, but so did the others I've driven.
I'm dying to get in on a rolling road. Will they be able to tell me if the ECU is mapped right?
Might be worth takinjg it to a blitz place, and getting them to have a look. See if they can doagnose any of the odd problems you are having. If you have a blitz ecu, I would definately get a nice boost guage, just to make sure you know what the turbo is doing. You can't rely on stock with upped boost. I used to run 1.25 bar, and the stock guage would do all sorts of odd things.
Good bit of kit,the Blitz piggy backs are by far more sophisticated than,say,the Apexi equiv.
AFAIK the Blitz piggy back access is factory set to optimal param's in your car.It should have a 'learning' prog inbuilt.
To reset ecu for adding any mods etc,as explained to me by a clever person
Undo battery connectors & leave a few mins,then press brake pedal several times(will discharge any static etc).*Normally* this will reset an ecu(unless it has its own power source-rare).When you restart, the learning prog will usually monitor signals for 20-30 mins.First~10 mins leave at normal tickover with no electrical accessories at allswitched on.Next ~10 mins switch on rear screen heater,few mins later switch on the A/C at full whack.The idea being that the ecu *learns* how the engine responds to heavy electrical drainage & so compensate.
>> Edited by tuttle on Wednesday 21st September 12:39
AFAIK the Blitz piggy back access is factory set to optimal param's in your car.It should have a 'learning' prog inbuilt.
To reset ecu for adding any mods etc,as explained to me by a clever person
Undo battery connectors & leave a few mins,then press brake pedal several times(will discharge any static etc).*Normally* this will reset an ecu(unless it has its own power source-rare).When you restart, the learning prog will usually monitor signals for 20-30 mins.First~10 mins leave at normal tickover with no electrical accessories at allswitched on.Next ~10 mins switch on rear screen heater,few mins later switch on the A/C at full whack.The idea being that the ecu *learns* how the engine responds to heavy electrical drainage & so compensate.
>> Edited by tuttle on Wednesday 21st September 12:39
tuttle said:
*ECU RESET PROCEDURE*
Interesting!
I'd never thought of it that way...
It seems to handle A/C etc loads well (both before and after the reset) - but I can see the logic in what you're saying.
Andy - I wouldn't say I'm having problems, it's running fine, only 'abnormal' thing is that the boost gauge is getting up above the plus.
In safe mode (following the Impreza incident) the gauge was jumping about madly and the car was giving no boost at all, but all that stopped when I reset the ECU.
Now it works exactly as it used to (i.e. car boosts, gauge records that smoothly and seems in keeping with what the car is doing). Only difference is the gauge reaches a higher peak value.
Bearing in mind that the article says the Blitz ECU will run a higher than standard boost I'd say the car is working well and reporting well.
Definately going to get a proper gauge though...
...and a boost controller is on the Chritmas list...
Well...I don't think it'll actually blow up.It does have a knock sensor yes?
All the Jap import performance cars over here would be used to 100oct fuel.Most importers claim to have remapped for UK 98RON fuel but 99% of them haven't.So you really won't be in the minority here.Keep an eye on your knock levels,make sure your mixture isn't running too lean & don't worry too much.IMO,of course
If you really feel that you must have 100oct petrol (& a tesco 99super unleaded is not in your area)make or buy some octane booster.To used regularly youre going to need a drum of it tho.Normally I use & would reccomend Millers CVL but can only get it in little flasks @ £4.00 a go!
SRM Engineering do it at~£7.00 per ltr.
www.srm-engineering.com/cathtml/Fuel%20Octane%20Booster_1.html
If you have a chemical persuasion
you could make your own,here's how:
www.gnttype.org/techarea/misc/octanebooster.html
>> Edited by tuttle on Thursday 22 September 23:08
All the Jap import performance cars over here would be used to 100oct fuel.Most importers claim to have remapped for UK 98RON fuel but 99% of them haven't.So you really won't be in the minority here.Keep an eye on your knock levels,make sure your mixture isn't running too lean & don't worry too much.IMO,of course
If you really feel that you must have 100oct petrol (& a tesco 99super unleaded is not in your area)make or buy some octane booster.To used regularly youre going to need a drum of it tho.Normally I use & would reccomend Millers CVL but can only get it in little flasks @ £4.00 a go!
SRM Engineering do it at~£7.00 per ltr.
www.srm-engineering.com/cathtml/Fuel%20Octane%20Booster_1.html
If you have a chemical persuasion
you could make your own,here's how: www.gnttype.org/techarea/misc/octanebooster.html
>> Edited by tuttle on Thursday 22 September 23:08
Not really sure about the knock sensor... I'll take a look tomorrow.
It's ok anyway - the guy thought I was about to buy one and was simply expressing the (strongly held) view that I'd be better buying a Unichip. He doesn't actually believe it'll blow the car.
As for the home-blend - "Toulene". Isn't that the stuff that you REALLY don't want to 'Nitrate'?
I'll take a look but I don't think there's any in the cupboard..
Edited to add: I'm pretty sure the mixture isn't lean. The exhausts are nicely carboned and it smells pretty rich when you rag it.
>> Edited by _Al_ on Friday 23 September 00:05
It's ok anyway - the guy thought I was about to buy one and was simply expressing the (strongly held) view that I'd be better buying a Unichip. He doesn't actually believe it'll blow the car.
As for the home-blend - "Toulene". Isn't that the stuff that you REALLY don't want to 'Nitrate'?
I'll take a look but I don't think there's any in the cupboard..
Edited to add: I'm pretty sure the mixture isn't lean. The exhausts are nicely carboned and it smells pretty rich when you rag it.
>> Edited by _Al_ on Friday 23 September 00:05
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