My Rolling Road Results
Discussion
Batty FTO said:
is the 'liner operation now T?
my offer of help and the use of my pit still stands if you need a hand......
Hi Batty,how's life treating you?
You have a pit too! Lucky B'stard
Thanks for the offer, I'm sure I can think of an (any)excuse to jump down it! The old gel is still running fine,but I still haven't finished the wiring prob,so it's being driven around with no dash-all loose switches an that
I kinda got sidetracked & bought a bunch of oldish cars & stuff from Japan to sell on,so I'm playing dodgy car dealers,kinda time consuming
Cheers -Matt
You can disconnect the "map" sensor that the ecu uses simply by pulling off its vac/boost hose and plugging the hose.
Note: Toyota tccs ecu uses the map sensor (on bosch clone air meter systems) simply to run the boost gauge and tells the ecu when to cut the fuel. It does not alter fuelling within the normal operating parameters of the engine.
The reason being: 1) Early tccs that uses the flapper type air flow sensor works on MAF principle of air metering (mass air flow).
Later Tccs uses MAP (manifold absolute pressure) and the speed/density method to determine air flow requirements for fuelling.
So, what all that means is as long as you have the flapper type of air flow sensor, you can disconnect the pipe (blank it off) and then raise the boost to around 1 bar(using calibrated bleed etc) without using any fancy piggyback pooters or FCD's.
I know, ive done it, and have been using it like this for 2 years without a problem on a 110,000 mile engine! But then again, i dont cane the ass off it at 6k..... i just ride the boost..
Having said that though, need to get a mappable ecu to handle the new engine spec as the old setup just wont do!
You can use this just get an idea of where or why things arent running as they should...hth.
Note: Toyota tccs ecu uses the map sensor (on bosch clone air meter systems) simply to run the boost gauge and tells the ecu when to cut the fuel. It does not alter fuelling within the normal operating parameters of the engine.
The reason being: 1) Early tccs that uses the flapper type air flow sensor works on MAF principle of air metering (mass air flow).
Later Tccs uses MAP (manifold absolute pressure) and the speed/density method to determine air flow requirements for fuelling.
So, what all that means is as long as you have the flapper type of air flow sensor, you can disconnect the pipe (blank it off) and then raise the boost to around 1 bar(using calibrated bleed etc) without using any fancy piggyback pooters or FCD's.
I know, ive done it, and have been using it like this for 2 years without a problem on a 110,000 mile engine! But then again, i dont cane the ass off it at 6k..... i just ride the boost..
Having said that though, need to get a mappable ecu to handle the new engine spec as the old setup just wont do!
You can use this just get an idea of where or why things arent running as they should...hth.
tuttle said:
is the 'liner operation now T?
my offer of help and the use of my pit still stands if you need a hand
Hi Batty,how's life treating you?
You have a pit too! Lucky B'stard
The old gel is still running fine,but I still haven't finished the wiring prob,so it's being driven around with no dash-all loose switches an that
I kinda got sidetracked & bought a bunch of oldish cars & stuff from Japan to sell on,so I'm playing dodgy car dealers,kinda time consuming
Cheers -Matt
if you need an apprentice
also what do you have? i need to downgrade soon as the g/f started talking houses
MrFlibbles said:
Turbo T said:
what is the stock wastgate/actuator setting. That should be the minimum the car will boost to.
Is there any way I can check/adjust it?
Wastegate pressure is 6psi i believe.
Is that set permanently then?
I had a look last night (albeit in the dark). All the pipes to the Turbo VSV are there and are well sealed (couldn't check for leaks due to low light and build up of road grime).
I'll test its operation as soon as I can. No idea how to check the intercooler/wastegate.
I'm trying to get my hands on a bleed kit and a boost gauge to test Deltas' method. Still need to figure out what the blanked off pipes do...
Oh, by the way - scans of RR results to follow shortly.
Batty FTO said:
Oh, by the way - scans of RR results to follow shortly.
Al why not take a few pics etc of the pipework
(soz for going O/T BTW)
M
No prob Matt!
My digi-cam died recently. Last time I tried to use it I was getting pictures that looked like screenshots from the computer game 'Doom'.
BattyftoThink I spotted-heard more like! you this a.m. leaving Stowey village around 10.30ish.
Thats a very smart tie you had on!
Again,thanks for the offer of help.Most of the cars need only minor fettling,but here's the present list if anyone is interested
96 1800 escort ghia
95 1400 escort
96 1800 mondeo mistral ( ..erm sport apparently)
96 2.8 Pajero (wicked, like a tank)
98 daewoo nubria cdx 2.0
Thats a very smart tie you had on!
Again,thanks for the offer of help.Most of the cars need only minor fettling,but here's the present list if anyone is interested
96 1800 escort ghia
95 1400 escort
96 1800 mondeo mistral ( ..erm sport apparently)
96 2.8 Pajero (wicked, like a tank)
98 daewoo nubria cdx 2.0
tuttle said:
BattyftoThink I spotted-heard more like! you this a.m. leaving Stowey village around 10.30ish.
Thats a very smart tie you had on!
Again,
95 1400 escort
you should have guessed it wasn't me with a tie! fraid not dude
ohh..cheap hacks?
its either i downgrade or buy a cheapo car...?
Soz again Al.....
The Boost bar looks stable does it not? just low?
Batty FTO said:
its either i downgrade or buy a cheapo car...?
Soz again Al.....
The Boost bar looks stable does it not? just low?
A) buy a cheaper car. You can get an old shape MR2 for peanuts these days. Still jap, still fun but VASTLY cheaper and you free up a ton of cash from the FTO.
B) No prob.
C) Indeed - stable but low. It's going to base boost and holding there, exactly as it should if the ECU thinks there's something wrong. Only thing is the ECU doesn't think there's anything wrong.
I'm therefore guessing that whatever mechanism the ECU uses to 'clear' the car for higher boost isn't working. I think it's the Turbo VSV so I'll be trying to test it..
How does the rest of it look? Fuelling etc..
Charlie said it looked ok, but multiple opinions are always valuable. I want to learn about this stuff...
>> Edited by _Al_ on Wednesday 5th October 11:49
tuttle said:
fraid not dude
That'll teach me to wave at strange men in fast cars
quick dude, quick..
if it was a sub 6 0-60 i'd say fast, but as its mid 6's its quick.
mostly you'll see me in and around norton/paulton/westfield.
although my fingers are crossed that the new tesco petrol station will have 100 ron fuel
tuttle said:
It doesn't Bah-humbug! Though they could as they've fitted 3 pumps (2 95RON & 1 derv) at each bay.
I'm going to lobby their suggestion box.Suggest we all do the same.You never know.
really?
passed it yesterday but didn't stop
damn it!
do meet quiet a few petrol headed guys down there though, like a guy with a drop top scimeter v.rare...
all chat etc, unlike the esso where they check if you've got neons....
Fitted a boost gauge last night - confirms exactly what the RR said, between 0.5bar and 0.6bar (so no shock there).
Now I need to find the extra!
That said; the tubby owner (who leant me the boost gauge/fitting kit) took me out in his Rev1 T-bar. He's running 13psi (1 bar ish?) and there really wasn't that much difference. He came in mine and said the same.
Confirmed again on the way to the pub afterwards...
I guess his 17" wheels and T-bar will be blunting the performance a bit compared to my tin top on 15"s?
Now I need to find the extra!
That said; the tubby owner (who leant me the boost gauge/fitting kit) took me out in his Rev1 T-bar. He's running 13psi (1 bar ish?) and there really wasn't that much difference. He came in mine and said the same.
Confirmed again on the way to the pub afterwards...
I guess his 17" wheels and T-bar will be blunting the performance a bit compared to my tin top on 15"s?
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