BMW E92 330i N53 warm engine whine
Discussion
Liam330i said:
Soup anxiety did u modify the OEM spring by cutting it or not as yours as held up well I've got one on order from vanos bmw
I didn't have to cut the spring - the metal cap sat fine. Mine has been OK, it's needed sealant to be reapplied at services but other than that, all is well.I found I had to cut mine, but only because I discovered that on hard braking there was a squirrel/chipmunk noise from the front of the engine, which i later discovered was air being sucked in through the front main seal - this was caused by excess vacuum. The excess vacuum was the CCV not sealing fully, as its function is to close off the manifold vacuum. When the valve is open, it sucks engine fumes through back into the manifold.
I don't know why it affected my engine in particular, but the effect was pretty subtle anyway - I thought it was my imagination initially. Only on hard braking and coming to a full stop.
I also figured, that with the CCV more closed than open (with a shorter spring) it would reduce the oil being sucked back through the manifold and maybe help the back of the valves not get bunged up.
YMMV etc.
I don't know why it affected my engine in particular, but the effect was pretty subtle anyway - I thought it was my imagination initially. Only on hard braking and coming to a full stop.
I also figured, that with the CCV more closed than open (with a shorter spring) it would reduce the oil being sucked back through the manifold and maybe help the back of the valves not get bunged up.
YMMV etc.
I'm going to redo mine, don't think its right, whine has gone but still reasonable vacuum. I have a spare membrane and the aluminium cap on it now anyway.
I also have a leak somewhere at the back corner which drips onto the exhaust and smells in the cabin, usually just when very slow or stationary you notice and mostly goes once warm, guessing its just pooling while engines off.
Is this most likely valve cover gasket or the valve cover itself needs replacing if cracked?
I also have a leak somewhere at the back corner which drips onto the exhaust and smells in the cabin, usually just when very slow or stationary you notice and mostly goes once warm, guessing its just pooling while engines off.
Is this most likely valve cover gasket or the valve cover itself needs replacing if cracked?
Biden said:
I'm going to redo mine, don't think its right, whine has gone but still reasonable vacuum. I have a spare membrane and the aluminium cap on it now anyway.
I also have a leak somewhere at the back corner which drips onto the exhaust and smells in the cabin, usually just when very slow or stationary you notice and mostly goes once warm, guessing its just pooling while engines off.
Is this most likely valve cover gasket or the valve cover itself needs replacing if cracked?
Oil leak? Most likely valve cover gasket, valve covers themselves are very unlikely to crack unless they have been dropped/hit whilst removed.I also have a leak somewhere at the back corner which drips onto the exhaust and smells in the cabin, usually just when very slow or stationary you notice and mostly goes once warm, guessing its just pooling while engines off.
Is this most likely valve cover gasket or the valve cover itself needs replacing if cracked?
Marc p said:
Oil leak? Most likely valve cover gasket, valve covers themselves are very unlikely to crack unless they have been dropped/hit whilst removed.
I agree - my valve cover gasket was changed recently as a slight weep had become more serious. At 205k miles the valve cover itself is fine.Ok thanks, thought as much.
I have heard the plastic covers can crack over time due to heat, but I guess the gasket is more likely. I may attempt it myself as it doesn't look too bad on youtube from what I have seen, just takes time.
Do you need to do anything with the injectors to 'reprogram' them after or can you get away without touching them?
About the PCV, seems the advice here is to seal the membrane to the cap and then seal the cap on to the valve cover?
When I did it not so long ago with the alu cap combo, I followed the video below (it has subtitles), where I tried gluing the membrane to the valve cover and just screwed the cap on after, whistle is gone but still vacuum. What's the right way?
Come to think of it the old membrane wasn't glued in I don't think...
I have heard the plastic covers can crack over time due to heat, but I guess the gasket is more likely. I may attempt it myself as it doesn't look too bad on youtube from what I have seen, just takes time.
Do you need to do anything with the injectors to 'reprogram' them after or can you get away without touching them?
About the PCV, seems the advice here is to seal the membrane to the cap and then seal the cap on to the valve cover?
When I did it not so long ago with the alu cap combo, I followed the video below (it has subtitles), where I tried gluing the membrane to the valve cover and just screwed the cap on after, whistle is gone but still vacuum. What's the right way?
Come to think of it the old membrane wasn't glued in I don't think...
Biden said:
Ok thanks, thought as much.
I have heard the plastic covers can crack over time due to heat, but I guess the gasket is more likely. I may attempt it myself as it doesn't look too bad on youtube from what I have seen, just takes time.
Do you need to do anything with the injectors to 'reprogram' them after or can you get away without touching them?
About the PCV, seems the advice here is to seal the membrane to the cap and then seal the cap on to the valve cover?
When I did it not so long ago with the alu cap combo, I followed the video below (it has subtitles), where I tried gluing the membrane to the valve cover and just screwed the cap on after, whistle is gone but still vacuum. What's the right way?
Come to think of it the old membrane wasn't glued in I don't think...
I didn't glue the membrane, I just used liquid gasket on the outer edge of the cap itself.I have heard the plastic covers can crack over time due to heat, but I guess the gasket is more likely. I may attempt it myself as it doesn't look too bad on youtube from what I have seen, just takes time.
Do you need to do anything with the injectors to 'reprogram' them after or can you get away without touching them?
About the PCV, seems the advice here is to seal the membrane to the cap and then seal the cap on to the valve cover?
When I did it not so long ago with the alu cap combo, I followed the video below (it has subtitles), where I tried gluing the membrane to the valve cover and just screwed the cap on after, whistle is gone but still vacuum. What's the right way?
Come to think of it the old membrane wasn't glued in I don't think...
SoupAnxiety said:
I didn't glue the membrane, I just used liquid gasket on the outer edge of the cap itself.
Yeah i thought so from reading this, thanks for confirming. I will try doing the same, as yours seems to have lasted ages.I got some Patex high temp glue stuff with the kit (This - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pattex-Repair-Extreme-Glu... ), but it went on quite thick and was hard to get a smooth join, so I might go grab some liquid gasket to use instead from Halfords today.
Thankfully ordered a spare membrane so will redo it fresh maybe later today, if I can get the liquid gasket.
Edited by Biden on Saturday 28th October 14:06
SoupAnxiety said:
Biden said:
Did you have to replace all the bolts as well? I've read conflicting things online, seems maybe N52 you do and N53 you don't?
I'm not sure - my superhero indy mechanic did the work. The receipt doesn't mention new bolts explicitly.They’re not stretch bolts so can be re-used, some people replace them but it’s not necessary, especially as the torque settings for them are very low. Definitely replace the rubber washers for them though.
In regards to re-coding the injectors, as long as you re-fit each injector in the same cylinder, no re-calibration is required, however I would recommend replacing the de-couplers and seals on them.
In regards to re-coding the injectors, as long as you re-fit each injector in the same cylinder, no re-calibration is required, however I would recommend replacing the de-couplers and seals on them.
Biden said:
I'm going to redo mine, don't think its right, whine has gone but still reasonable vacuum. I have a spare membrane and the aluminium cap on it now anyway.
I also have a leak somewhere at the back corner which drips onto the exhaust and smells in the cabin, usually just when very slow or stationary you notice and mostly goes once warm, guessing its just pooling while engines off.
Is this most likely valve cover gasket or the valve cover itself needs replacing if cracked?
Hi,I also have a leak somewhere at the back corner which drips onto the exhaust and smells in the cabin, usually just when very slow or stationary you notice and mostly goes once warm, guessing its just pooling while engines off.
Is this most likely valve cover gasket or the valve cover itself needs replacing if cracked?
The oil frying smell is quite common, and a work colleague with an N53 has it too, and is getting there sump gasket replaced at great cost.
I did my valve cover gasket, as a lot of smoke was being created, which was visible from under the bonnet when driving! I then did it again with a thin bead of sensor safe sealant, because it leaked the first time. I could confirm the nearside of the head above the exhausts was clean of oil, yet oil was still getting on the exhaust.
I then did the oil cooler gasket, as oil was tracking round the front of the engine. (Note, this will have your aux belt off of your not careful, but that is another story altogether).
But oil was still getting on the exhaust, this time tracking round the back of the block.
I spotted one of the cylinder head bolts (next to the oil cooler) was weeping oil, so replaced this (with a dab of sealant under the head). Note: it's not actually a cylinder head bolt "as such", it's a set of three that clamp the oil cooler part of the head down.
I can now visibly see there is no oil leaking from the inlet side of the head.
And yet the oil smell still comes from time to time, and I still lose one "block" of oil every 500-1000 miles.
So I suspect my sump gasket has porous sections, but it's such a faff to change I don't know if I can be arsed before spring.
Ultimately, whilst the valve cover gasket was by far the biggest leaker, BMW has created many opportunities for the N53 to fry it's oil on the exhaust, so you need to check them all out imo.
Hth
Marc p said:
They’re not stretch bolts so can be re-used, some people replace them but it’s not necessary, especially as the torque settings for them are very low. Definitely replace the rubber washers for them though.
In regards to re-coding the injectors, as long as you re-fit each injector in the same cylinder, no re-calibration is required, however I would recommend replacing the de-couplers and seals on them.
Thanks, good to know!In regards to re-coding the injectors, as long as you re-fit each injector in the same cylinder, no re-calibration is required, however I would recommend replacing the de-couplers and seals on them.
Ian Geary said:
Biden said:
I'm going to redo mine, don't think its right, whine has gone but still reasonable vacuum. I have a spare membrane and the aluminium cap on it now anyway.
I also have a leak somewhere at the back corner which drips onto the exhaust and smells in the cabin, usually just when very slow or stationary you notice and mostly goes once warm, guessing its just pooling while engines off.
Is this most likely valve cover gasket or the valve cover itself needs replacing if cracked?
Hi,I also have a leak somewhere at the back corner which drips onto the exhaust and smells in the cabin, usually just when very slow or stationary you notice and mostly goes once warm, guessing its just pooling while engines off.
Is this most likely valve cover gasket or the valve cover itself needs replacing if cracked?
The oil frying smell is quite common, and a work colleague with an N53 has it too, and is getting there sump gasket replaced at great cost.
I did my valve cover gasket, as a lot of smoke was being created, which was visible from under the bonnet when driving! I then did it again with a thin bead of sensor safe sealant, because it leaked the first time. I could confirm the nearside of the head above the exhausts was clean of oil, yet oil was still getting on the exhaust.
I then did the oil cooler gasket, as oil was tracking round the front of the engine. (Note, this will have your aux belt off of your not careful, but that is another story altogether).
But oil was still getting on the exhaust, this time tracking round the back of the block.
I spotted one of the cylinder head bolts (next to the oil cooler) was weeping oil, so replaced this (with a dab of sealant under the head). Note: it's not actually a cylinder head bolt "as such", it's a set of three that clamp the oil cooler part of the head down.
I can now visibly see there is no oil leaking from the inlet side of the head.
And yet the oil smell still comes from time to time, and I still lose one "block" of oil every 500-1000 miles.
So I suspect my sump gasket has porous sections, but it's such a faff to change I don't know if I can be arsed before spring.
Ultimately, whilst the valve cover gasket was by far the biggest leaker, BMW has created many opportunities for the N53 to fry it's oil on the exhaust, so you need to check them all out imo.
Hth
Ian Geary said:
Hi,
The oil frying smell is quite common, and a work colleague with an N53 has it too, and is getting there sump gasket replaced at great cost.
I did my valve cover gasket, as a lot of smoke was being created, which was visible from under the bonnet when driving! I then did it again with a thin bead of sensor safe sealant, because it leaked the first time. I could confirm the nearside of the head above the exhausts was clean of oil, yet oil was still getting on the exhaust.
I then did the oil cooler gasket, as oil was tracking round the front of the engine. (Note, this will have your aux belt off of your not careful, but that is another story altogether).
But oil was still getting on the exhaust, this time tracking round the back of the block.
I spotted one of the cylinder head bolts (next to the oil cooler) was weeping oil, so replaced this (with a dab of sealant under the head). Note: it's not actually a cylinder head bolt "as such", it's a set of three that clamp the oil cooler part of the head down.
I can now visibly see there is no oil leaking from the inlet side of the head.
And yet the oil smell still comes from time to time, and I still lose one "block" of oil every 500-1000 miles.
So I suspect my sump gasket has porous sections, but it's such a faff to change I don't know if I can be arsed before spring.
Ultimately, whilst the valve cover gasket was by far the biggest leaker, BMW has created many opportunities for the N53 to fry it's oil on the exhaust, so you need to check them all out imo.
Hth
+1 to all of this. My valve cover gasket, sump gasket and oil level sensor gasket were all leaking, have all been replaced, but still I get stinky oil smell as there's always another drip on the exhaust.The oil frying smell is quite common, and a work colleague with an N53 has it too, and is getting there sump gasket replaced at great cost.
I did my valve cover gasket, as a lot of smoke was being created, which was visible from under the bonnet when driving! I then did it again with a thin bead of sensor safe sealant, because it leaked the first time. I could confirm the nearside of the head above the exhausts was clean of oil, yet oil was still getting on the exhaust.
I then did the oil cooler gasket, as oil was tracking round the front of the engine. (Note, this will have your aux belt off of your not careful, but that is another story altogether).
But oil was still getting on the exhaust, this time tracking round the back of the block.
I spotted one of the cylinder head bolts (next to the oil cooler) was weeping oil, so replaced this (with a dab of sealant under the head). Note: it's not actually a cylinder head bolt "as such", it's a set of three that clamp the oil cooler part of the head down.
I can now visibly see there is no oil leaking from the inlet side of the head.
And yet the oil smell still comes from time to time, and I still lose one "block" of oil every 500-1000 miles.
So I suspect my sump gasket has porous sections, but it's such a faff to change I don't know if I can be arsed before spring.
Ultimately, whilst the valve cover gasket was by far the biggest leaker, BMW has created many opportunities for the N53 to fry it's oil on the exhaust, so you need to check them all out imo.
Hth
SoupAnxiety said:
I didn't glue the membrane, I just used liquid gasket on the outer edge of the cap itself.
Did your aluminium cap click into place? I watched a video which did but mine doesn't want to and seems it cant go further down than it does so assume its fine, just worried its not seating right into the recess around the edge of the cap. Removing the glue used last time was a pain in the arse, but think I got it all off now.
Just to be 100% sure, I assume you mean you put the liquid gasket around the recess part next to the red arrow, as opposed to around the inner edge of the cap like the yellow arrow
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