E91 Straight Six Bearding
Discussion
g3org3y said:
Interesting info gizlaroc.
I know on my E91, it doesn't like a short jab/blip of the throttle.Feels a bit stuttery (for want of a better term). Otherwise it's fine. No hesitation on acceleration, powers to the red line with no problem. My Z4 (also N52) has no problems with the throttle blip.
E91 going in for service next week. Have also asked them to look at a few things:
- Dipped beam alignment - I think it's pointing too low. IIRC there's an arm on the rear suspension arm for auto levelling. Based on an error code I don't think it's working.
- Vibration when stopped at idle. Worse when in Drive. Perhaps engine or gearbox mounts? Definitely worse after the subframe was dropped for the sump pan gasket.
- Vibration in the steering wheel (and I feel car more globally) at speed (70mph). Not sure if bent/unbalanced wheel.
I predict more bills.
Bit of an update. Forgive me E9X beards, turns out I am ignorant of this new fancy pants condition based servicing.I know on my E91, it doesn't like a short jab/blip of the throttle.Feels a bit stuttery (for want of a better term). Otherwise it's fine. No hesitation on acceleration, powers to the red line with no problem. My Z4 (also N52) has no problems with the throttle blip.
E91 going in for service next week. Have also asked them to look at a few things:
- Dipped beam alignment - I think it's pointing too low. IIRC there's an arm on the rear suspension arm for auto levelling. Based on an error code I don't think it's working.
- Vibration when stopped at idle. Worse when in Drive. Perhaps engine or gearbox mounts? Definitely worse after the subframe was dropped for the sump pan gasket.
- Vibration in the steering wheel (and I feel car more globally) at speed (70mph). Not sure if bent/unbalanced wheel.
I predict more bills.
When it came up with Service in red on the dash, I assumed an Inspection 1 or 2. Totally forgot about the whole menu setting to see which bit needed doing. Turns out it was the microfilter and also the brake fluids. Just did the microfilter and learnt how to reset the service indicator. Will still have the brake fluid done Thursday (called the garage to inform them of my mistake). Cam cover gasket defo needs doing. Leaking like a b
h and necessitating all too often oil top ups.gizlaroc said:
Oh, the other option was to fit the new Pioneer EVO unit to the car, this would give a screen above the trim, centre vents.
The unit it self is hidden, it would go where the oem stereo is, but I would use a blanking plate there.
I would then put in 3 gauges, in BMW orange, for coolant temp, battery voltage and probably oil pressure.
This sort of thing...
This is the Pioneer unit, you can mount the screen separately from the head unit...
BMW do a blanking plate for the radio that came in the GTS...
I think it could work quite well and give you a nice up to date infotainment system.
My understanding has always been that the integration of the head unit means that replacing it means a lot of fThe unit it self is hidden, it would go where the oem stereo is, but I would use a blanking plate there.
I would then put in 3 gauges, in BMW orange, for coolant temp, battery voltage and probably oil pressure.
This sort of thing...
This is the Pioneer unit, you can mount the screen separately from the head unit...
BMW do a blanking plate for the radio that came in the GTS...
I think it could work quite well and give you a nice up to date infotainment system.
Edited by gizlaroc on Tuesday 14th January 16:20
kery or the loss of things like parking sensor functions. Is there an easy straight swap now? My LCD is a bit sketchy at times but I've never replaced it because of the above.It has always been fine, you do however need to buy a 'decent' adapter that combines can bus for steering wheel and parking sensors.
I guess it depends what is in your car, if you have things on the MOST ring, like dab, bluetooth, CD changer, USB etc. then it can be an issue when taking it is as coding of these things can fail, but if you have changed the head unit you won't be using them anyway.
I guess it depends what is in your car, if you have things on the MOST ring, like dab, bluetooth, CD changer, USB etc. then it can be an issue when taking it is as coding of these things can fail, but if you have changed the head unit you won't be using them anyway.
Oh, had to sort the rear wiper out today as well.
The spindle was well and truly seized, so much so I have just ordered a new one, annoying at £80, but a used one may be not much better, and I tried to get it out to clean it up for 30 minutes and gave up.
Next job is to sort the windscreen washer jets, they are a little weak!
Hoping it is just some gunk rather than motor.
The spindle was well and truly seized, so much so I have just ordered a new one, annoying at £80, but a used one may be not much better, and I tried to get it out to clean it up for 30 minutes and gave up.
Next job is to sort the windscreen washer jets, they are a little weak!
Hoping it is just some gunk rather than motor.
gizlaroc said:
This is what I use in my BMW manual gearboxes......
https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/redline-d4-atf-us-q...
It makes the gear changes so much smoother, you can feel their is less resistance, which aslos means less protection, but being British I'm sure you can change gears with a stick fine.
Definitely remove the Clutch Delay Valve though, that transforms the gear changes.
I buy it from here though, they are round the corner from me.
https://www.powerenhancer.co.uk/red-line-synthetic...
I did the diff with this...
https://www.powerenhancer.co.uk/red-line-synthetic...
Cheers for this. Ordered them tonight and with a bit of luck they will all be here by this weekend and I can do a full set of services on my 325 and the OH's Fiat 500https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/redline-d4-atf-us-q...
It makes the gear changes so much smoother, you can feel their is less resistance, which aslos means less protection, but being British I'm sure you can change gears with a stick fine.
Definitely remove the Clutch Delay Valve though, that transforms the gear changes.
I buy it from here though, they are round the corner from me.
https://www.powerenhancer.co.uk/red-line-synthetic...
I did the diff with this...
https://www.powerenhancer.co.uk/red-line-synthetic...
Did another 400 miles in the 330i today.
Feeling really good, not sure if I even need the front dampers now to be honest, but they are on their way, so may as well fit them, sure it will tighten things up a treat and know it will be good for another 10 years.
Still not sure if I am keeping it, but if I do advertise it I would like it to be properly sorted regardless.
Feeling really good, not sure if I even need the front dampers now to be honest, but they are on their way, so may as well fit them, sure it will tighten things up a treat and know it will be good for another 10 years.
Still not sure if I am keeping it, but if I do advertise it I would like it to be properly sorted regardless.
I sprayed the silver trim with Plasticote Matt Black when I retrofitted the idrive, I sprayed it because I bought an idrive controller version and it was all scratched up and was a slightly different silver to the rest of the car.
I did it in a warm room, about 5 light coats, it looked just like the oem black they use.
This is what it looked like...
I did it in a warm room, about 5 light coats, it looked just like the oem black they use.
This is what it looked like...
Whole list of things my wife's E91 needs:
- Engine Mounts (explains the vibration at idle)
- Oil leak, I thought it was the cam cover gasket but actually from the filler cap. Also rear main seal (++labour/expensive)
- Front discs/pads
- Both front alloys flat spotted (explains the vibration at 60+mph)
E90s of this age are not cheap to run!
- Engine Mounts (explains the vibration at idle)
- Oil leak, I thought it was the cam cover gasket but actually from the filler cap. Also rear main seal (++labour/expensive)
- Front discs/pads
- Both front alloys flat spotted (explains the vibration at 60+mph)
E90s of this age are not cheap to run!
ferrisbueller said:
Wtf
Yep, they can throw some bills. 6 Injectors and all the associated bits, clutch replaced, servicing, tyres (lots of them), led tail lamp unit replaced, engine decoke, oil leaks, wheel speed sensors, water pump, various minor jobs that I cannot remember.
I never realised how much that car cost me over the time I had until I dug out the service history and added it all up just before part exchange.
Never anything N54 specific though. Turbos were original. Only needed the breakdown service once though, when when the water pump went.
Whoever gets it now will have a properly sorted one though.
£9500 - does that include fuel and insurance???
Got my 325i @ 86k, now on 126k.
In that time its had
water pump & stat £400
rear dampers £65
Rear pads £30
18" wheels £350
RS3 tyres £ 290
plugs £60
coils £120
used boot hinge £49
led bulbs £23
boot liner £15
vanos solenoids £40
Paid £4500 for it private in 2015
Ok so I spanner myself so no labour costs, but quite reasonable I think considering its now nearly 14 years old.
I keep looking at alternatives but cant seem to find one...
Got my 325i @ 86k, now on 126k.
In that time its had
water pump & stat £400
rear dampers £65
Rear pads £30
18" wheels £350
RS3 tyres £ 290
plugs £60
coils £120
used boot hinge £49
led bulbs £23
boot liner £15
vanos solenoids £40
Paid £4500 for it private in 2015
Ok so I spanner myself so no labour costs, but quite reasonable I think considering its now nearly 14 years old.
I keep looking at alternatives but cant seem to find one...
Haha I wish, no it does not include fuel or insurance. Insurance was pretty cheap though, about 500 per annum. Tax was fine too at 300ish.
I don't spanner myself so used a mix of dealer and BMW specialist, although being a 2009 car it qualified for cheaper labour rates at the dealer. If I had a double garage (or at least a non gravel driveway) I might have done more myself, but as the car was essential for work I just had everything fixed as and when it needed it.
I don't spanner myself so used a mix of dealer and BMW specialist, although being a 2009 car it qualified for cheaper labour rates at the dealer. If I had a double garage (or at least a non gravel driveway) I might have done more myself, but as the car was essential for work I just had everything fixed as and when it needed it.
MikeM6 said:
ferrisbueller said:
Wtf
Yep, they can throw some bills. 6 Injectors and all the associated bits, clutch replaced, servicing, tyres (lots of them), led tail lamp unit replaced, engine decoke, oil leaks, wheel speed sensors, water pump, various minor jobs that I cannot remember.
I never realised how much that car cost me over the time I had until I dug out the service history and added it all up just before part exchange.
Never anything N54 specific though. Turbos were original. Only needed the breakdown service once though, when when the water pump went.
Whoever gets it now will have a properly sorted one though.
In the past 14,000 miles in my 330i I’ve done a rear caliper and lads, water pump and thermostat and an A/C compressor. Other stuff is routine servicing and me being picky. This is from 138,000 to 152,000 miles.
The water pump didn’t NEED doing, but it had done nearly 50k when the thermostat started showing a code, so it made sense to replace.
I don’t think these cars are necessarily worse than an E46 of the same mileage and age, often better really. It’s all swings and roundabouts. Some factors also play into this, I am thinking of switching to 17 inch summer wheels too, for the sake of suspension components and they should be less likely to bend. I always found E46s on big wheels felt their mileage more with interior rattles too.
The water pump didn’t NEED doing, but it had done nearly 50k when the thermostat started showing a code, so it made sense to replace.
I don’t think these cars are necessarily worse than an E46 of the same mileage and age, often better really. It’s all swings and roundabouts. Some factors also play into this, I am thinking of switching to 17 inch summer wheels too, for the sake of suspension components and they should be less likely to bend. I always found E46s on big wheels felt their mileage more with interior rattles too.
Had to buy a new rear wiper mechanism for £84 as mine had seized.
Was fitting it today, before doing so had to get my son from the city. On the way back noticed some wind noise from rear window, so went to close it, made some noise like the motor was struggling.
Undid it and then wouldn't do up.
Nice!
Had to dive home with the window down and 4ºc outside. Haha
Window regulator cable was chewed up where the plastic the cable sits in had snapped.
Managed to get the glass up and remove the motor, crimped the regulator bar to keep glass in place.
New regulator ordered from Amazon, luckily only £31 delivered.
At least my rear window is now clear anyway.
Was fitting it today, before doing so had to get my son from the city. On the way back noticed some wind noise from rear window, so went to close it, made some noise like the motor was struggling.
Undid it and then wouldn't do up.
Nice!
Had to dive home with the window down and 4ºc outside. Haha
Window regulator cable was chewed up where the plastic the cable sits in had snapped.
Managed to get the glass up and remove the motor, crimped the regulator bar to keep glass in place.
New regulator ordered from Amazon, luckily only £31 delivered.
At least my rear window is now clear anyway.
gizlaroc said:
It has always been fine, you do however need to buy a 'decent' adapter that combines can bus for steering wheel and parking sensors.
I guess it depends what is in your car, if you have things on the MOST ring, like dab, bluetooth, CD changer, USB etc. then it can be an issue when taking it is as coding of these things can fail, but if you have changed the head unit you won't be using them anyway.
Prompted by this, and a few more issues with the screen being impossible to read at times, I've had a look at some of these.I guess it depends what is in your car, if you have things on the MOST ring, like dab, bluetooth, CD changer, USB etc. then it can be an issue when taking it is as coding of these things can fail, but if you have changed the head unit you won't be using them anyway.
The adaptor, with the correct patch cable, seems to be around £80 to £100 with a further £200-250 for the Sony/Pioneer/whatever head unit. That's not hideous in the context of the price of a replacement BMW head unit or £130 repair, given the step up in functionality and the bang up to date maps you can run on the unit.
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