E91 Straight Six Bearding

[anonymous-user]

JakeT said:

Understandable that, I did the same namely. It's the blower wiring. I believe they take the glove box down to access the blower motor that way. My car went in on a waiting appointment in Feb, and came out with no added rattles. I think E90s are better for interior rattles vs. The E46s.

For a bluetooth 'thing', One of the following can be good. There's a switched power in the armrest next to the AUX input, so you can leave it in there and forget about it:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/TUNAI-Firefly-Bluetooth-R...

Thanks, I will get on to BMW and find out what recalls have and haven't been done.
Ref bluetooth - i presume using the firefly there is no option for steering wheel controls ie skip track?

[Mr Tidy]

eezeh said:

Need to book it in for a recall that according to dvsa is outstanding, any recommendations for a good dealer in hampshire? I've heard a few bits and pieces about barons in farnborough and i think i'd rather take it elsewhere.

Cheers.

I took my E91 to Sytner in Sunningdale, but they didn't seem interested when I called them about my E90.

So it went to Barons in Farnborough and I didn't have a problem with them.

FWIW if you need non-warranty work done a great new Indy opened just over a year ago in Hook, Hants. called RBM Hampshire. Ross opened it after 15 years at Sytner. I've no connection other than as a satisfied customer.

[stevesingo]

eezeh said:

JakeT said:

Understandable that, I did the same namely. It's the blower wiring. I believe they take the glove box down to access the blower motor that way. My car went in on a waiting appointment in Feb, and came out with no added rattles. I think E90s are better for interior rattles vs. The E46s.

For a bluetooth 'thing', One of the following can be good. There's a switched power in the armrest next to the AUX input, so you can leave it in there and forget about it:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/TUNAI-Firefly-Bluetooth-R...

Thanks, I will get on to BMW and find out what recalls have and haven't been done.
Ref bluetooth - i presume using the firefly there is no option for steering wheel controls ie skip track?

check-mot.service.gov.uk gives the option of checking if there is a pending recall.

[to3m]

JakeT said:

My car went in on a waiting appointment in Feb, and came out with no added rattles. I think E90s are better for interior rattles vs. The E46s.

My E90 came back no worse after the recall than before.

Regarding rattles and interior noises in general: coming from an E46, I quickly noticed how cheap the E9x interior felt. But having driven it for 3 years, I think it's actually generally a lot better put together, even if the materials aren't as nice. The E46 interior did feel more plush, but once on the move mind had a constant interior rattle, a (not unusual) regular rear suspension clonk when changing gear, and in cold weather the whole car would start to creak and groan, like the chassis was being put under some kind of strain, whenever driven anything other than entirely disinterestedly. Worst I've ever had from my E90, by comparison: the occasional clattery interior noise, like maybe some cheap bit of plastic isn't quite clipped on as firmly as it should be.

The cheaper materials suck, but they are quite well placed. The nasty roof lining, cheap plastic on the dashboard, and cheap plastic on the steering wheel, are, while obvious if you're looking for them, bits you don't actually touch much in practice.

(Well, I don't, anyway.)

[ferrisbueller]

Could someone with access to the relevant information do a quick sanity check for me please?

Looking at diff parts for E90 330i Manual (3.15 diff) and searches suggest the diff is also used on 320d and some 1-series models?

[JakeT]

ferrisbueller said:

Could someone with access to the relevant information do a quick sanity check for me please?

Looking at diff parts for E90 330i Manual (3.15 diff) and searches suggest the diff is also used on 320d and some 1-series models?

I did some looking a while ago, and found the same. It was the 320dA though. Not the manual model. I'd imagine it's the same 'size' diff too, as maybe like the E46 there was different gear sizes for different engines.

to3m said:

My E90 came back no worse after the recall than before.

Regarding rattles and interior noises in general: coming from an E46, I quickly noticed how cheap the E9x interior felt. But having driven it for 3 years, I think it's actually generally a lot better put together, even if the materials aren't as nice. The E46 interior did feel more plush, but once on the move mind had a constant interior rattle, a (not unusual) regular rear suspension clonk when changing gear, and in cold weather the whole car would start to creak and groan, like the chassis was being put under some kind of strain, whenever driven anything other than entirely disinterestedly. Worst I've ever had from my E90, by comparison: the occasional clattery interior noise, like maybe some cheap bit of plastic isn't quite clipped on as firmly as it should be.

The cheaper materials suck, but they are quite well placed. The nasty roof lining, cheap plastic on the dashboard, and cheap plastic on the steering wheel, are, while obvious if you're looking for them, bits you don't actually touch much in practice.

(Well, I don't, anyway.)

I agree with the above. Mine also 'feels' worse than the E46 that it replaced, but with more miles on it has no interior rattles. I agree with the less squeaks and the like when it's very cold too. I think BMW sailed a bit closer to the 'quality' mark, but made it pay off a bit more too in certain aspects.

[ferrisbueller]

JakeT said:

ferrisbueller said:

Could someone with access to the relevant information do a quick sanity check for me please?

Looking at diff parts for E90 330i Manual (3.15 diff) and searches suggest the diff is also used on 320d and some 1-series models?

I did some looking a while ago, and found the same. It was the 320dA though. Not the manual model. I'd imagine it's the same 'size' diff too, as maybe like the E46 there was different gear sizes for different engines.

I've got about 8 part numbers now - different iterations plus pre/post LCI. The 320dA is one that has come up as being the same as post LCI 330i. ETA and 118d.

Edited by ferrisbueller on Wednesday 30th December 15:20

[anonymous-user]

Done a little bit of research regarding a good bluetooth setup, short of swapping in the CIC system which is rather expensive it seems the GROM MST4 / MST3P does exactly what I need it to, replacing the CD changer and connecting to the most fibre optic cables in the boot, much like the E46 one, allowing steering wheel controls and bluetooth streaming.
Anyone have any experiences with one of these kits? Cheers.

[zippyonline]

ferrisbueller said:

Could someone with access to the relevant information do a quick sanity check for me please?

Looking at diff parts for E90 330i Manual (3.15 diff) and searches suggest the diff is also used on 320d and some 1-series models?

I inadvertently worked out when I bought a whole rear subrframe including diff, driveshafts, hubs etc. that a 320d auto has the same diff as an E9x 330i manual (N52), but has a different input flange.

I also worked out that the driveshafts and hence hubs/wheel bearings are weedier on a 320d than a 330i/330d/335i/335d!

[ferrisbueller]

zippyonline said:

ferrisbueller said:

Could someone with access to the relevant information do a quick sanity check for me please?

Looking at diff parts for E90 330i Manual (3.15 diff) and searches suggest the diff is also used on 320d and some 1-series models?

I inadvertently worked out when I bought a whole rear subrframe including diff, driveshafts, hubs etc. that a 320d auto has the same diff as an E9x 330i manual (N52), but has a different input flange.

I also worked out that the driveshafts and hence hubs/wheel bearings are weedier on a 320d than a 330i/330d/335i/335d!

Real OEM suggests they're all interchangeable but I'm not convinced that's the case given the proliferation of part numbers.

ETA. Does the input flange just slide out so it's a straight swap. Are the outputs different, too, then?

Edited by ferrisbueller on Wednesday 30th December 18:14

[zippyonline]

ferrisbueller said:

zippyonline said:

ferrisbueller said:

Could someone with access to the relevant information do a quick sanity check for me please?

Looking at diff parts for E90 330i Manual (3.15 diff) and searches suggest the diff is also used on 320d and some 1-series models?

I inadvertently worked out when I bought a whole rear subrframe including diff, driveshafts, hubs etc. that a 320d auto has the same diff as an E9x 330i manual (N52), but has a different input flange.

I also worked out that the driveshafts and hence hubs/wheel bearings are weedier on a 320d than a 330i/330d/335i/335d!

Real OEM suggests they're all interchangeable but I'm not convinced that's the case given the proliferation of part numbers.

ETA. Does the input flange just slide out so it's a straight swap. Are the outputs different, too, then?

Edited by ferrisbueller on Wednesday 30th December 18:14

Output flanges are the same - standard e-torx bolt on drveshafts.

Input flange is bolted on I think - so you'd need to make sure you can measure the drag on that if you swap them over.

Sorry, I haven't got brilliant photos, but I've dug these up if they help - they should demonstrate the point.


320d auto. big round input flange.


320d auto part number

i think this is from a 2008 model...

and from my leggy 2005 330i manual:


3 point input flange - otherwise identical.


part number.

I did once know different case types etc. as I was looking into it all so I could refresh the bearings and put in an LSD....but I haven't got round to it and currently don't have the funds! I do have both diff's though, so if you really want some more info, I can physically look at them and take photos if you want.

[ferrisbueller]

I think there's a low profile nut on the input. With that off you might be able to swap them over? Need to watch a tear down to have a look.

ETA (again) https://youtu.be/WSRgCX_LmOM?t=117

It seems if you release the nut the input slides out and could be swapped over.

I'm guessing different part numbers for different flanges, Outputs are not so easy to swap.

Edited by ferrisbueller on Wednesday 30th December 19:12

[zippyonline]

ferrisbueller said:

I think there's a low profile nut on the input. With that off you might be able to swap them over? Need to watch a tear down to have a look.

ETA (again) https://youtu.be/WSRgCX_LmOM?t=117

It seems if you release the nut the input slides out and could be swapped over.

Edited by ferrisbueller on Wednesday 30th December 18:55

Yeah, exactly that -you just gotta make sure you do it up to the same preload & drag etc. so it's all still in spec. Whilst you're carrying on researching, do share if you find the diff specs for preload etc. - I've not found a definitive set of numbers on the internet that I trust yet!

[ferrisbueller]

zippyonline said:

ferrisbueller said:

I think there's a low profile nut on the input. With that off you might be able to swap them over? Need to watch a tear down to have a look.

ETA (again) https://youtu.be/WSRgCX_LmOM?t=117

It seems if you release the nut the input slides out and could be swapped over.

Edited by ferrisbueller on Wednesday 30th December 18:55

Yeah, exactly that -you just gotta make sure you do it up to the same preload & drag etc. so it's all still in spec. Whilst you're carrying on researching, do share if you find the diff specs for preload etc. - I've not found a definitive set of numbers on the internet that I trust yet!

Yes, so not just a swap it and tighten - it's a pre-set and potentially with a crush washer.

Number I have for the: 168L 0.2Nm - 0.4Nm, 188L diff is 0.4Nm - 0.6Nm

Edited by ferrisbueller on Wednesday 30th December 20:24

[helix402]

I have a spare set of N52 cam cover bolts (I used one or two). Free to the first person to send me a PM. Not all N52s need new cam cover bolts. I think postage will be about £4.

[paulguitar]

Happy New years Chaps.


Just wondering if anyone has suggestions for the best oil for a 150,000 mile N53, it's due its annual change.

I think I need a battery too, I see that I can get one for £50 with a four-year warranty. Since I probably won't have the car that long, do the beards think this is okay, or do I need something more expensive? It's a 2006 330i non stop-start.

Thanks.

Edited by paulguitar on Friday 1st January 14:54

[JakeT]

helix402 said:

I have a spare set of N52 cam cover bolts (I used one or two). Free to the first person to send me a PM. Not all N52s need new cam cover bolts. I think postage will be about £4.

I'm all grand for now thanks, Helix.

paulguitar said:

Happy New years Chaps.


Just wondering if anyone has suggestions for the best oil for a 150,000 mile N53, it's due its annual change.

I think I need a battery too, I see that I can get one for £50 with a four-year warranty. Since I probably won't have the car that long, do the beards think this is okay, or do I need something more expensive? It's a 2006 330i non stop-start.

Thanks.

Likewise, Happy new year to all threadists! Lurker, or otherwise.

For oil, my go to is a 5w30 oil that meets BMW's LL-04 specification. Some people get caught up on brand, but there's plents of price points to suit people. Places like Smith and Allan do 20l of the aforementioned stuff, for about £35. 20l should get you through three services with a bit left over.

As for a battery, if yours is an N53 car it's worth checking if you have a regular lead acid battery, or an AGM one. I think the N53 was a part of the BMW efficient dynamics move on their cars, where they have AGM batteries too. You might not need one, though.

[paulguitar]

JakeT said:

Likewise, Happy new year to all threadists! Lurker, or otherwise.

For oil, my go to is a 5w30 oil that meets BMW's LL-04 specification. Some people get caught up on brand, but there's plents of price points to suit people. Places like Smith and Allan do 20l of the aforementioned stuff, for about £35. 20l should get you through three services with a bit left over.

As for a battery, if yours is an N53 car it's worth checking if you have a regular lead acid battery, or an AGM one. I think the N53 was a part of the BMW efficient dynamics move on their cars, where they have AGM batteries too. You might not need one, though.

Thanks, Jake. My 'the man' will be doing the service, I am not sure which oil he's planning on but I just want to have some clue about things ahead of time. I am not sure about the battery, my car has the £240 tax but I think it's pre 'efficient dynamics'.

[anonymous-user]

On the topic of batterys, I have not had very much luck with my recently acquired 330d

Genuine 3yr old bmw battery seems to be completely toast, wont charge past 11.9v, try to start the car it, doesnt even try to crank the starter motor and drops down to 10v.
Indicator on the top is yellow and states replace battery.

Any ideas? Taking the battery down to halfords tomorrow for a test.
How do I check if i am supposed to have an AGM battery? Have inpa and all the kit to match the battery to the car. (Non stop start)

[paulguitar]

Here's my battery, can anything be learned from this photo, as to whether AGM or not, etc?