E91 Straight Six Bearding
Discussion
paulguitar said:
Here's my battery, can anything be learned from this photo, as to whether AGM or not, etc?
It might to people more skilled than me, but if you put the last 7 characters of your VIN into here that should tell you what it had originally:- https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/selectIf it helps I think the manufacture date is usually stamped on the top of the Negative terminal on the battery.
This post suggests you can tell the difference by eye: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2012...
The battery in my LCI N53 appears to be an AGM one - its part number is 61217555286.
(Mine doesn't have start/stop, but it is post-efficient dynamics. Apparently it has the brake energy regeneration thing? - I think meaning it can charge the battery from braking, as well as by drawing power from the engine in general.)
The battery in my LCI N53 appears to be an AGM one - its part number is 61217555286.
(Mine doesn't have start/stop, but it is post-efficient dynamics. Apparently it has the brake energy regeneration thing? - I think meaning it can charge the battery from braking, as well as by drawing power from the engine in general.)
Happy new year E91 beards... Wishing you all the best for a good 2021 
However, new year, new E91 problems.
EML with these codes:
2C74 Oxygen sensor after catalytic converter 2, signal
2C9F Oxygen sensor heating after catalytic converter 2, activation.
Car runs fine. Is it likely to be something straightforward like the O2 sensor itself or is it possible to be something else that would trigger this combo?
If indeed the O2 sensor, how easy to change?
However, new year, new E91 problems.
EML with these codes:
2C74 Oxygen sensor after catalytic converter 2, signal
2C9F Oxygen sensor heating after catalytic converter 2, activation.
Car runs fine. Is it likely to be something straightforward like the O2 sensor itself or is it possible to be something else that would trigger this combo?
If indeed the O2 sensor, how easy to change?
eezeh said:
On the topic of batterys, I have not had very much luck with my recently acquired 330d
Genuine 3yr old bmw battery seems to be completely toast, wont charge past 11.9v, try to start the car it, doesnt even try to crank the starter motor and drops down to 10v.
Indicator on the top is yellow and states replace battery.
Any ideas? Taking the battery down to halfords tomorrow for a test.
How do I check if i am supposed to have an AGM battery? Have inpa and all the kit to match the battery to the car. (Non stop start)
Battery was totally shagged, car was programmed for a 90aH lead acid and had an 80aH fitted, perhaps this caused the premature failure of the battery?Genuine 3yr old bmw battery seems to be completely toast, wont charge past 11.9v, try to start the car it, doesnt even try to crank the starter motor and drops down to 10v.
Indicator on the top is yellow and states replace battery.
Any ideas? Taking the battery down to halfords tomorrow for a test.
How do I check if i am supposed to have an AGM battery? Have inpa and all the kit to match the battery to the car. (Non stop start)
All sorted now runs like a dream.
g3org3y said:
Happy new year E91 beards... Wishing you all the best for a good 2021
However, new year, new E91 problems.
EML with these codes:
2C74 Oxygen sensor after catalytic converter 2, signal
2C9F Oxygen sensor heating after catalytic converter 2, activation.
Car runs fine. Is it likely to be something straightforward like the O2 sensor itself or is it possible to be something else that would trigger this combo?
If indeed the O2 sensor, how easy to change?
Happy New Year to you too. However, new year, new E91 problems.
EML with these codes:
2C74 Oxygen sensor after catalytic converter 2, signal
2C9F Oxygen sensor heating after catalytic converter 2, activation.
Car runs fine. Is it likely to be something straightforward like the O2 sensor itself or is it possible to be something else that would trigger this combo?
If indeed the O2 sensor, how easy to change?
Sorry to hear of your new problem though.
My 2nd Z4C was reluctant to start when warm when I forst got it. I took it to Donington and stopped and started it a couple of times as I was leaving and got an Amber EML, which stayed on next time I used it but it drove just fine.
Took it to my Indy and while he was running diagnostics the battery died. So new battery and faults for both banks post Cat O2 sensors cleared, a dose of Cataclean in the tank and I was told to fill up with Super Plus only.
That worked for 2 days, so I just ignored the EML until I found someone local with a code reader and sure enough the same faults were logged. I got them cleared, bought some Cataclean and stuck to Super Plus ever after and it ran fine for more than 2 years.
Anyway what I never managed to establish was whether a dying battery caused one of those random electrical issues BMWs are prone to, too much stop/start use, or Cataclean really cured a problem.
If I had the same problem again I'd start with battery and driving it further to get it properly warmed up, then try some Cataclean or similar.
Hope it isn't too difficult to cure.
After a bit of expertise,
having a few issues with the sunroof all of a sudden, at first I could not open the forward glass, it would lower and get caught and bounce back, the re initialise procedure forced it down which i didnt like so greased the seals and that issue seems to have gone away.
Now when closing the glass the forward glass seems to catch on the bug deflector and bounces back, and the interior sliding sun shade wont close with the switch, only open.
I have carried out the reset procedure multiple times and whilst it works during reset, normal operation is a bit buggy.
Left the car to sit for a while and came back to it, I can now close the interior sun shade but if i click the button forward twice it only moves a few inches before stopping.
Its almost as if the motor is too weak
My explanation is rather poor so I have attached 2 videos, hopefully you get a better understanding of my issue.
1. https://youtu.be/Q-BNfoDSzZA
2. https://youtu.be/FdQpXPAZMUo
having a few issues with the sunroof all of a sudden, at first I could not open the forward glass, it would lower and get caught and bounce back, the re initialise procedure forced it down which i didnt like so greased the seals and that issue seems to have gone away.
Now when closing the glass the forward glass seems to catch on the bug deflector and bounces back, and the interior sliding sun shade wont close with the switch, only open.
I have carried out the reset procedure multiple times and whilst it works during reset, normal operation is a bit buggy.
Left the car to sit for a while and came back to it, I can now close the interior sun shade but if i click the button forward twice it only moves a few inches before stopping.
Its almost as if the motor is too weak
My explanation is rather poor so I have attached 2 videos, hopefully you get a better understanding of my issue.
1. https://youtu.be/Q-BNfoDSzZA
2. https://youtu.be/FdQpXPAZMUo
I have never has issues with the internal blind, but the anti-trap feature where it bounces back when closing I have had a few times.
The motors are pretty sensitive to dirt etc.
I would buy the BMW spec grease (cheap from a dealer) and clean off as much of the existing grease from the runners/ mechanism using cotton bud sticks and replace with new. Part number for the grease is 83192157321.
Normally a coat of Gummi Pflege on all the rubber seals (not sure what oil you used but it may be causing more friction not less) helps it run smoothly as well.
On the internal blind, given it is moving slowly, I assume your battery is OK. As I am sure you know when the voltage gets low on these E91s loads of the electrics start playing up/ shutting down.
Most importantly I would use it as little as possible until you do the above. At the moment it all seems to work OK, but slowly and intermittently. Hopefully the above helps.
The motors are pretty sensitive to dirt etc.
I would buy the BMW spec grease (cheap from a dealer) and clean off as much of the existing grease from the runners/ mechanism using cotton bud sticks and replace with new. Part number for the grease is 83192157321.
Normally a coat of Gummi Pflege on all the rubber seals (not sure what oil you used but it may be causing more friction not less) helps it run smoothly as well.
On the internal blind, given it is moving slowly, I assume your battery is OK. As I am sure you know when the voltage gets low on these E91s loads of the electrics start playing up/ shutting down.
Most importantly I would use it as little as possible until you do the above. At the moment it all seems to work OK, but slowly and intermittently. Hopefully the above helps.
Edited by Maph7 on Sunday 3rd January 18:04
eezeh said:
reading ISTA procedures bmw list a sunroof channel cleaning tool pn 54107306684 which I can order, if anyone has one and can give dimensions I could 3D print a few. Would save a few quid.
Sorry, can't help with sunroof - no experience with it (although will keep an ear out as my friend has a 335i with it). But jeez that's an expensive "cleaning" tool!Slightly off topic, however I also have a pano roof on my car. However having watched that video - I've noticed that my car doesn't have the wind/bug deflector that pops up. Those of you with the pano roof as well - do you have the deflector fitted? Just checked real oem and it shows it in there. Odd that mine doesn't seem to have it!
Good day people,
seen 335i come up for sale on AT, bit of a high miler, 157k.
It's got a full service history. Main dealer until 2013, then indy since then. Last major service included replacement of spark plugs, coil packs and engine injector clean and flush and water pump replaced at around 100,000 miles.
Is there anything to look for /ask the seller?
seen 335i come up for sale on AT, bit of a high miler, 157k.
It's got a full service history. Main dealer until 2013, then indy since then. Last major service included replacement of spark plugs, coil packs and engine injector clean and flush and water pump replaced at around 100,000 miles.
Is there anything to look for /ask the seller?
Sorry, I also can't weigh in on the pano roof issues. Mine's a regular-roofed model. It does look bloody cool though, and the electric blind is very trick. 
LGriffiths88 said:
Good day people,
seen 335i come up for sale on AT, bit of a high miler, 157k.
It's got a full service history. Main dealer until 2013, then indy since then. Last major service included replacement of spark plugs, coil packs and engine injector clean and flush and water pump replaced at around 100,000 miles.
Is there anything to look for /ask the seller?
I'd check the injectors have been done, and the turbos don't have wastegate rattle. Seeing as the ad says it spent time in Sweden I'd take a look at the underside on your knees, and the arches too, since it could have seen some good road salt. Otherwise it looks tidy for the mileage, and is a nice price really. 335i models are normally expensive.seen 335i come up for sale on AT, bit of a high miler, 157k.
It's got a full service history. Main dealer until 2013, then indy since then. Last major service included replacement of spark plugs, coil packs and engine injector clean and flush and water pump replaced at around 100,000 miles.
Is there anything to look for /ask the seller?
JakeT said:
I'd check the injectors have been done, and the turbos don't have wastegate rattle. Seeing as the ad says it spent time in Sweden I'd take a look at the underside on your knees, and the arches too, since it could have seen some good road salt. Otherwise it looks tidy for the mileage, and is a nice price really. 335i models are normally expensive.
Cheers for that reply. Seen a e61 530i come up. Was on eBay a couple of months ago from private seller at £5500. It’s now with a trade seller at £6900
Mr Tidy said:
g3org3y said:
Happy new year E91 beards... Wishing you all the best for a good 2021
However, new year, new E91 problems.
EML with these codes:
2C74 Oxygen sensor after catalytic converter 2, signal
2C9F Oxygen sensor heating after catalytic converter 2, activation.
Car runs fine. Is it likely to be something straightforward like the O2 sensor itself or is it possible to be something else that would trigger this combo?
If indeed the O2 sensor, how easy to change?
Happy New Year to you too. However, new year, new E91 problems.
EML with these codes:
2C74 Oxygen sensor after catalytic converter 2, signal
2C9F Oxygen sensor heating after catalytic converter 2, activation.
Car runs fine. Is it likely to be something straightforward like the O2 sensor itself or is it possible to be something else that would trigger this combo?
If indeed the O2 sensor, how easy to change?
Sorry to hear of your new problem though.
My 2nd Z4C was reluctant to start when warm when I forst got it. I took it to Donington and stopped and started it a couple of times as I was leaving and got an Amber EML, which stayed on next time I used it but it drove just fine.
Took it to my Indy and while he was running diagnostics the battery died. So new battery and faults for both banks post Cat O2 sensors cleared, a dose of Cataclean in the tank and I was told to fill up with Super Plus only.
That worked for 2 days, so I just ignored the EML until I found someone local with a code reader and sure enough the same faults were logged. I got them cleared, bought some Cataclean and stuck to Super Plus ever after and it ran fine for more than 2 years.
Anyway what I never managed to establish was whether a dying battery caused one of those random electrical issues BMWs are prone to, too much stop/start use, or Cataclean really cured a problem.
If I had the same problem again I'd start with battery and driving it further to get it properly warmed up, then try some Cataclean or similar.
Hope it isn't too difficult to cure.
helix402 said:
Bolts now posted to a happy N52 owner.
Good man.Latest in my E91 world: horrible sound coming from n/s front wheel, sounded like an angle grinder. Turns out the brake disc shield had rusted through around one of it's mounting bolts and was dragging on the disc. Temporarily fixed with a washer, I'll get a replacement at some point.
Oh, and I can report that the very cheap tailgate struts I fitted a couple of years ago have already lost some of their vigour, so quality does make a difference for these. They still work fine, but don't push the tailgate quite to the top of its travel without assistance. First world problems.
I probably need at least one set of new tyres sooner rather than later too. I've had absolutely no complaints about the Rainsports I fitted early on in my ownership, so likely more of the same.
God, I'm so boring.
g3org3y said:
Happy new year E91 beards... Wishing you all the best for a good 2021
However, new year, new E91 problems.
EML with these codes:
2C74 Oxygen sensor after catalytic converter 2, signal
2C9F Oxygen sensor heating after catalytic converter 2, activation.
Car runs fine. Is it likely to be something straightforward like the O2 sensor itself or is it possible to be something else that would trigger this combo?
If indeed the O2 sensor, how easy to change?
I used to get that if I ran my 330i on 95 ron. However, new year, new E91 problems.
EML with these codes:
2C74 Oxygen sensor after catalytic converter 2, signal
2C9F Oxygen sensor heating after catalytic converter 2, activation.
Car runs fine. Is it likely to be something straightforward like the O2 sensor itself or is it possible to be something else that would trigger this combo?
If indeed the O2 sensor, how easy to change?
Sainsburys fuel would get it coming on like clockwork.
I would run some 99ron through it and maybe some Archoil.
Reset all codes and then test again.
g3org3y said:
Thanks Mr Tidy. Booked in with the garage for Friday they are decent. He told me they'd analyse the live data stream etc to see what's that rather than jump to a replace and hope situation. I've also asked them to look at an oil leak at the front, looks like the oil filter housing gasket (again). Fingers crossed nothing too dreadful.
Just be careful with that. The data can read wrong with crap fuel in too. The pre and post O2 sensors on these are not cheap, so run some decent fuel in for a tank before worrying too much.
If you can't get Archoil some Wynns extreme fuel cleaner will help a lot too.
Mind you, this can throw an EML itself, the cleaner. I have just put some in 1/2 a tank on Saturday, I do every 6 months or so when I change oil. Sure enough today threw an EML. It will be fine again once I have filled back up.
Thanks for the advice gilzaroc.
Car has been run exclusively on Tesco 99 since I bought it. AFAIK wife hasn't put anything different in. I've reset the light a couple of times. For the journey immediately following the reset, the light stays off. The EML comes on on starting the car, the journey after.
Car has been run exclusively on Tesco 99 since I bought it. AFAIK wife hasn't put anything different in. I've reset the light a couple of times. For the journey immediately following the reset, the light stays off. The EML comes on on starting the car, the journey after.
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