E91 Straight Six Bearding
Discussion
skullandbiscuits said:
g3org3y said:
JakeT said:
I'd give the oil a change and then rag the tits off it for a while. You'll soon know if there's been any lasting damage. I know yours has been a bit of a problem child, but mine feels every bit as solid as the M52 in my old 328i. You've not done massive miles, so I'm sure it'll be fine.
Absolute worst case scenario, there's engines for sale on eBay, although let's not think about that for now. If the pressure was low enough to really cause lasting damage, you'd have seen plenty of warnings.
Used a few times today, I wouldn't say the idle is perfect but tbh neither is it on my (N52 engined) Z4 to start.Absolute worst case scenario, there's engines for sale on eBay, although let's not think about that for now. If the pressure was low enough to really cause lasting damage, you'd have seen plenty of warnings.
When you start with the a/c on, it seems to idle at ~750-800rpm. When you turn the a/c off, the idle really drops down to just over 500rpm. In fact the car seems to feel happier idling at the higher speed. I'm assuming that's normal given the increased load required for running the a/c.
The idle is still a touch odd, almost pulsing (if that makes sense). Could that be because of the valve cover oil leak?
Still no further DME/Vanos codes so that's good news. Bought a new oil filter from ECP today. Got a new jack coming tomorrow so hopefully will change the oil on Saturday. Also ordered a new Vanos solenoid. Debating about new Vanos filters.
Sir_Dave said:
Genuinely, being that your car had an oil change and then suffered these symtoms, i would perhaps be having a conversation with the "specialist" that did the work. As i said before, its downright incompetent that they either removed the filter, or didnt notice that it was missing imho, so it might at least help the next poor sod that goes there for an oil change 
Personally, id just give it a quick compression test, change the oil & do the other vanos solenoid. Im sure it'll be fine
It's my wife's car. After I had the work done she was driving it so exactly sure how long after the issue surfaced.Personally, id just give it a quick compression test, change the oil & do the other vanos solenoid. Im sure it'll be fine
I noticed it a few weeks later when we going somewhere in two cars, she started the E91 it did the funny idle and immediately she put it in drive and then it stalled. On questioning she stated she thought it might have been going for a bit but just thought she wasn't used to driving an auto so thought she was 'driving it wrong'.
The Specialist did do an oil/filter change when they changed the sump gasket so regardless, the missing insert should have been spotted/highlighted, that I agree is a bit disappointing. Having trawled various forums, seems to be quite a common thing that occurs (as main dealerships as well!)
Edited by g3org3y on Thursday 8th August 16:24
I have the exact same symptoms with a single error in DME "2A82 DME Vanos Intake" plus a lumpy cold start idle that drops down to about 600rpm. Fine once on the move (will try cold start with AC on next).
Over the weekend I changed the oil and filter, and noticed the oil filter cage was a bit loose seated in the cover. Before I step into Vanos solenoid world (I find it odd intake errors before exhaust), I will be ordering a new cover and see if that improves the situation.
Edited by skullandbiscuits on Sunday 24th January 18:45
Yes, worth changing the cap/insert (genuine BMW).
Did your oil filter kit come with the replacement small green O ring?
I understand that can also cause problems if not changed as its important in creating a seal at the bottom.
Good luck and let us know how you get on. FWIW, since I sorted that issue, car has run fine. Doesn't seem to have caused any (obvious) permanent damage *touch wood*. Now on 139k.
pmorg4 said:
I could also be doing with replacing the gas struts, as although they will hold the tailgate up, they seem a bit lazy so I'm sure they are past their best. I've had a look on Autodoc and there are countless brands (most of which I've never heard of) at pretty low prices. Does anyone have any experience of changing these, and is it OK to use generic brands or should I pay up for a known brand (or even original BMW parts)?
First job I tackled on my current E91, remarkably easy to swap out but as someone else has said, Stabilus or indeed OEM ones as the cheap ones aren't strong enough for a smooth action when opening. I followed a YouTube guide but didn't notice that the guy fitted OEM quality units but linked to cheap Amazon ones in their video description.d_a_n1979 said:
Re struts; Stabilus are the ones to go for
Noting this for later. As I mentioned a few pages back, I changed my tailgate struts a couple of years ago and bought pretty much the cheapest ones on ebay at the time (sub-£15 the pair IIRC). They've been fine, but are already a little lazy – the tailgate needs a nudge to send it right to the top of its travel.TheGreatDane said:
Has anyone modded their aux in?
CD's sound fine but any device plugged in via aux sounds like its had a 50% volume reduction.
Read about removing a resistor or something that removes this volume cap?
I think I read somewhere about adjusting the volume in the equaliser settings?CD's sound fine but any device plugged in via aux sounds like its had a 50% volume reduction.
Read about removing a resistor or something that removes this volume cap?
TheGreatDane said:
Has anyone modded their aux in?
CD's sound fine but any device plugged in via aux sounds like its had a 50% volume reduction.
Read about removing a resistor or something that removes this volume cap?
I haven't yet tried my aux in, but I do recall reading somewhere that there is a resistor an/or capacitor in line with the cable from the input to the head unit. A resistor would reduce volume across the board, and a capacitor would filter out lower frequencies. I can only guess it's an attempt to reduce the potential for damage should someone connect an inappropriate device which would send too much power through the aux input.CD's sound fine but any device plugged in via aux sounds like its had a 50% volume reduction.
Read about removing a resistor or something that removes this volume cap?
g3org3y said:
skullandbiscuits said:
g3org3y said:
JakeT said:
I'd give the oil a change and then rag the tits off it for a while. You'll soon know if there's been any lasting damage. I know yours has been a bit of a problem child, but mine feels every bit as solid as the M52 in my old 328i. You've not done massive miles, so I'm sure it'll be fine.
Absolute worst case scenario, there's engines for sale on eBay, although let's not think about that for now. If the pressure was low enough to really cause lasting damage, you'd have seen plenty of warnings.
Used a few times today, I wouldn't say the idle is perfect but tbh neither is it on my (N52 engined) Z4 to start.Absolute worst case scenario, there's engines for sale on eBay, although let's not think about that for now. If the pressure was low enough to really cause lasting damage, you'd have seen plenty of warnings.
When you start with the a/c on, it seems to idle at ~750-800rpm. When you turn the a/c off, the idle really drops down to just over 500rpm. In fact the car seems to feel happier idling at the higher speed. I'm assuming that's normal given the increased load required for running the a/c.
The idle is still a touch odd, almost pulsing (if that makes sense). Could that be because of the valve cover oil leak?
Still no further DME/Vanos codes so that's good news. Bought a new oil filter from ECP today. Got a new jack coming tomorrow so hopefully will change the oil on Saturday. Also ordered a new Vanos solenoid. Debating about new Vanos filters.
Sir_Dave said:
Genuinely, being that your car had an oil change and then suffered these symtoms, i would perhaps be having a conversation with the "specialist" that did the work. As i said before, its downright incompetent that they either removed the filter, or didnt notice that it was missing imho, so it might at least help the next poor sod that goes there for an oil change
Personally, id just give it a quick compression test, change the oil & do the other vanos solenoid. Im sure it'll be fine
It's my wife's car. After I had the work done she was driving it so exactly sure how long after the issue surfaced.Personally, id just give it a quick compression test, change the oil & do the other vanos solenoid. Im sure it'll be fine
I noticed it a few weeks later when we going somewhere in two cars, she started the E91 it did the funny idle and immediately she put it in drive and then it stalled. On questioning she stated she thought it might have been going for a bit but just thought she wasn't used to driving an auto so thought she was 'driving it wrong'.
The Specialist did do an oil/filter change when they changed the sump gasket so regardless, the missing insert should have been spotted/highlighted, that I agree is a bit disappointing. Having trawled various forums, seems to be quite a common thing that occurs (as main dealerships as well!)
Edited by g3org3y on Thursday 8th August 16:24
I have the exact same symptoms with a single error in DME "2A82 DME Vanos Intake" plus a lumpy cold start idle that drops down to about 600rpm. Fine once on the move (will try cold start with AC on next).
Over the weekend I changed the oil and filter, and noticed the oil filter cage was a bit loose seated in the cover. Before I step into Vanos solenoid world (I find it odd intake errors before exhaust), I will be ordering a new cover and see if that improves the situation.
Edited by skullandbiscuits on Sunday 24th January 18:45
Yes, worth changing the cap/insert (genuine BMW).
Did your oil filter kit come with the replacement small green O ring?
I understand that can also cause problems if not changed as its important in creating a seal at the bottom.
Good luck and let us know how you get on. FWIW, since I sorted that issue, car has run fine. Doesn't seem to have caused any (obvious) permanent damage *touch wood*. Now on 139k.
Odd one today. Opened the car to put my silica dehumidifier back on the dash after "recharging" it. I've just noticed the dash display is illuminated several hrs later. Doesn't change when you start the car either and try going through the menus.
What do we think? A bit of electrical silliness if the batteries not quite fully charged? I haven't had chance yet to move the car so I can leave it charging overnight. It's just had a few hours 2 Saturdays ago.
What do we think? A bit of electrical silliness if the batteries not quite fully charged? I haven't had chance yet to move the car so I can leave it charging overnight. It's just had a few hours 2 Saturdays ago.
Swervin_Mervin said:
Odd one today. Opened the car to put my silica dehumidifier back on the dash after "recharging" it. I've just noticed the dash display is illuminated several hrs later. Doesn't change when you start the car either and try going through the menus.
What do we think? A bit of electrical silliness if the batteries not quite fully charged? I haven't had chance yet to move the car so I can leave it charging overnight. It's just had a few hours 2 Saturdays ago.
I once had this with my E46, brought to my attention by the alarm sounding as the battery got low due to the dash draining it. I took the relevant fuse out as a short term fix, did some searching online and found that it can be caused by excess humidity. That seemed a long shot, but as I'd recently had the interior deep cleaned I thought it could have been a possibility. I made some effort to dry the interior air as much as possible (easier in the summer!), put the fuse back, and the issue never returned.What do we think? A bit of electrical silliness if the batteries not quite fully charged? I haven't had chance yet to move the car so I can leave it charging overnight. It's just had a few hours 2 Saturdays ago.
Unfortunately it doesn't sound like it's going to be your solution as you're already making efforts to keep the interior humidity down.
MajorMantra said:
eezeh said:
Anyone opened up a tailgate glass microswitch before?
No, but curious as to why you're asking, is the tailgate not opening? Most problems in this area stem from broken wires in the sheaths that pass from the body of the car to the tailgate. 88LG said:
TheGreatDane said:
Has anyone modded their aux in?
CD's sound fine but any device plugged in via aux sounds like its had a 50% volume reduction.
Read about removing a resistor or something that removes this volume cap?
I think I read somewhere about adjusting the volume in the equaliser settings?CD's sound fine but any device plugged in via aux sounds like its had a 50% volume reduction.
Read about removing a resistor or something that removes this volume cap?
And then use the right side rotary control to adjust the volume.
Tested it today while queuing for Tesco Click and Collect.
skullandbiscuits said:
Yes I replaced the little green o-ring as I had a dealer supplied oil filter. Ordered a new cover/insert from the dealer today with another oil filter, as it doesn't come with the o-rings. £51 lighter shocker...
Fingers crossed it'll sort the issue and you won't have to mess about with Vanos solenoids etc.Edited by g3org3y on Tuesday 26th January 11:55
I'm fancy like that.
6cylGolf said:
I thought that. Looks a good buy for around £3k...Gassing Station | BMW General | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff