E91 Straight Six Bearding
Discussion
g3org3y said:
Have heard about that.
The Creator C310 does show coolant temp on the live datastream but seems delayed with a slow refresh rate.
I know the temp can vary quite a bit depending on the engine 'mode' the car thinks it needs to be in (eco vs performance or whatever).
The hidden menu display is real-time. The temp definitely does vary a lot, depending on driving style and such. I seem to recall 80-110C being normal. I suspect the amount of variation is perhaps one of the reasons they didn't fit a gauge, as it would likely elicit complaints from people concerned by the variability. All done in the name of efficiency, as hot engines are thermodynamically more efficient, and getting up to temperature quickly also reduces wear.The Creator C310 does show coolant temp on the live datastream but seems delayed with a slow refresh rate.
I know the temp can vary quite a bit depending on the engine 'mode' the car thinks it needs to be in (eco vs performance or whatever).
Access that menu - it's interesting. Unfortunately if you want to see the temp you need to go through the rigmarole each time you start the car, but it only takes a minute or so to do. Coolant temp is menu item 7 IIRC.
g3org3y said:
No codes relating to that on a scan.
I had new waterpump (and I think thermostat) put in when I bought the car about 3 years ago.
It'd be nice if there was a coolant temp gauge but seemingly mpg more important. N52 seems to run hot, I notice the 630i can get up to 110-115 on oil temp (midway seems to be 120 on the gauge)
That’s about where my 130i used to sit as well.I had new waterpump (and I think thermostat) put in when I bought the car about 3 years ago.
It'd be nice if there was a coolant temp gauge but seemingly mpg more important. N52 seems to run hot, I notice the 630i can get up to 110-115 on oil temp (midway seems to be 120 on the gauge)
The 335i is similar but temps will rise closer to 120 after a few pulls on a warm day.
Creator C110 can be used to show coolant temp when plugged into port and driving Used on a 325D and quickly showed that engine not getting up to temp about 70c . after changing stats(2) got a steady temp of just over 90c. With the diesel cat will not regenerate if coolant does not get upto temp.
Obviously different temps for petrol engines but would be different but coolant temp gauge would be useful.
Obviously different temps for petrol engines but would be different but coolant temp gauge would be useful.
I fixed my steering angle sensor error (5E43) at the weekend...
There are a bunch of tutorials on youtube and other forums about the process, and a lot of them suggest attempting to clean up the sensor disc.
There's an official repair kit available however, and I chose to buy this as I didn't want to have to repeat the job if cleaning didn't work. The kit is part number 83192179894 and it includes a new disc and optical lens. Plus a hairnet!
The actual process is quite simple, you start by removing the airbag (always exciting...):
The hardest part is splitting the cowling around the steering column, I found this video particularly useful for showing how it fits together: https://youtu.be/VzhX9bTnGxE
There was very obvious crazing or contamination on my old sensor disc. Not sure how this happens – possibly something to do with grease somewhere in the system breaking down? In any case you need to be careful not to touch the new disc anywhere except its plastic hub.
Btw you'll need a tiny Torx screwdriver to change the lens, a T6 IIRC.
Fingers crossed, the fault hasn't reappeared since doing this.
There are a bunch of tutorials on youtube and other forums about the process, and a lot of them suggest attempting to clean up the sensor disc.
There's an official repair kit available however, and I chose to buy this as I didn't want to have to repeat the job if cleaning didn't work. The kit is part number 83192179894 and it includes a new disc and optical lens. Plus a hairnet!
The actual process is quite simple, you start by removing the airbag (always exciting...):
The hardest part is splitting the cowling around the steering column, I found this video particularly useful for showing how it fits together: https://youtu.be/VzhX9bTnGxE
There was very obvious crazing or contamination on my old sensor disc. Not sure how this happens – possibly something to do with grease somewhere in the system breaking down? In any case you need to be careful not to touch the new disc anywhere except its plastic hub.
Btw you'll need a tiny Torx screwdriver to change the lens, a T6 IIRC.
Fingers crossed, the fault hasn't reappeared since doing this.
dhutch said:
Hair net! Good work.
I obviously put it on just for the visual. Next job for me is figuring out my erratic idle. Car runs and drives fine but it can't hold a steady idle. I have a 2C7F code, which I understand refers to the second O2 sensor after the cat:
I don't fully understand the data but it looks like I'm not getting a proper reading from this sensor:
Can anyone guide me here? There are loads of forum threads about these sensors but lots of confusing and conflicting info.
I need to figure out:
1)Where exactly are they
2)Which sensor is number 2? Is it pn 11787545075 here?: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=VS12...
...and then decide if I can be arsed to DIY it, as it'll doubtless involve shearing off lots of rusty undertray screws.
Good work on the steering angle sensor. Hopefully the problem stays away.
I’m afraid I don’t have a part number for that Post-Cat O2 sensor, when it was replaced before my ownership.
Nor can I help with a PAS pump. Euronobheads do a Starline one. They seemed to be used on a lot, and maybe a used one can do what you need? Looking at RealOEM there’s a good few models that use the pump.
What issues are you facing? Pump bit the dust?
I’m afraid I don’t have a part number for that Post-Cat O2 sensor, when it was replaced before my ownership.
Nor can I help with a PAS pump. Euronobheads do a Starline one. They seemed to be used on a lot, and maybe a used one can do what you need? Looking at RealOEM there’s a good few models that use the pump.
What issues are you facing? Pump bit the dust?
JakeT said:
Nor can I help with a PAS pump. Euronobheads do a Starline one. They seemed to be used on a lot, and maybe a used one can do what you need? Looking at RealOEM there’s a good few models that use the pump.
What issues are you facing? Pump bit the dust?
I think it's on the way out. Feels heavy and seems noisy on lock.What issues are you facing? Pump bit the dust?
Having the rocket cover gasket and other bits done this week. Hope the car will feel a bit better after that's done anyway.
My 2005 330i went through its MOT earlier. First time pass is nice, with advisories for worn rear tyres and corroded rear subframe.
I think when I have some time this winter I’ll be getting the wire wheel and rust converter out to slow the corrosion and buy me a few more years before anything more invasive is needed.
I think when I have some time this winter I’ll be getting the wire wheel and rust converter out to slow the corrosion and buy me a few more years before anything more invasive is needed.
JakeT said:
My 2005 330i went through its MOT earlier. First time pass is nice, with advisories for worn rear tyres and corroded rear subframe.
I think when I have some time this winter I’ll be getting the wire wheel and rust converter out to slow the corrosion and buy me a few more years before anything more invasive is needed.
Good stuff.I think when I have some time this winter I’ll be getting the wire wheel and rust converter out to slow the corrosion and buy me a few more years before anything more invasive is needed.
It’s MOT time for the 125i in a few weeks.
The rear tyres are looking pretty shagged so it’s getting a pair of Asymmetric 5’s next week and I’ll replace the rear discs and pads before MOT time because they’re looking a bit shagged too.
I think I might need to do something about the subframe in the spring because parts are looking a bit crusty.
This reminds me that mine will need its MOT soon. Which will mark 10years in my ownership! 
Might throw some cash at it - there are a few things that could be done:
New rear tyres
Cam cover gasket
Replacement PAS rack
and possibly sump gasket
I've had it so long that it will nearly be time to do another gearbox oil, filter and sump change
And still no idea what to change into instead. I want a V8 but BMW V8s give me teh fear, no matter how many times I watch Sreten's vids and convince myself the valley pan pipe etc doesn't look too difficult...
Might throw some cash at it - there are a few things that could be done:
New rear tyres
Cam cover gasket
Replacement PAS rack
and possibly sump gasket
I've had it so long that it will nearly be time to do another gearbox oil, filter and sump change
And still no idea what to change into instead. I want a V8 but BMW V8s give me teh fear, no matter how many times I watch Sreten's vids and convince myself the valley pan pipe etc doesn't look too difficult...
g3org3y said:
Glad I'm not the only one whose subframe looks a bit on the rusty side!
It’s a bit annoying, but hey ho. The subframe on the 125i looks worse than the one on my old 130 despite that being older, with higher mileage.I was going to do something about it the year, but I think I’ll save that treat for next year. Yay.
Gassing Station | BMW General | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff