E91 Straight Six Bearding
Discussion
Found a youtube video of a e93 n57. Fan does need to come out but looks to be plenty of room when it’s removed.
New gates belt kit ordered from Autodoc. Hopefully it arrives next week.
I do need to order a t50 for the pulleys.
I’m just thankful it happened close to home and didn’t get ingested into the engine. From the horror stories on the internet it can ruin an engine.
New gates belt kit ordered from Autodoc. Hopefully it arrives next week.
I do need to order a t50 for the pulleys.
I’m just thankful it happened close to home and didn’t get ingested into the engine. From the horror stories on the internet it can ruin an engine.
Not sure whether that's an issue with the diesels, it's certainly an issue with the N5x petrols as the clearance between the crank pulley and block is very tight meaning that any bits of belt that end up wrapped around the inside of the crank pulley get forced past the seal into the crank.
Belt change is easy on the N52 but the N54 needs fan removal due to reduced clearance caused by the front turbo intake pipe. I have a kit sitting on the shelf ready to fit but haven't found time to do it, tempting fate really
Belt change is easy on the N52 but the N54 needs fan removal due to reduced clearance caused by the front turbo intake pipe. I have a kit sitting on the shelf ready to fit but haven't found time to do it, tempting fate really
Jakg said:
Gad-Westy said:
Can I use a sub frame from any E90/1/2/3 for my E91 335i sport or are there differences between models?
There's some variance between them - the "rear axle carrier" is different on some manual cars. It's also used on some 1-series'.https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/part?id=VS72-EUR-...
helix402 said:
sam.rog said:
Partner complained of a whining noise when setting off last week. Didn’t think much of it so took it out today find the cause.
Couldn’t hear much but a slight chirp when setting off. All of a sudden the battery light flashes on the dash. Battery not being charged.
s
t.
Limped it the 1.5 miles home and opened the bonnet. Belt slipped of the pulleys. Lucky still in one piece with no chunks missing.
Im assuming its the tensioner thats gone.
It was on my list if things to do but looks like it beat me to it. Car just on 102000 miles.
Lucky it wasn’t last week as we had a car full for a camping trip back to North Wales and did 350miles that weekend.
Any one got a good video of a n57 e90 aux belt replacement video as access looks a bit tight. I’ve seen a 5 series video but there looks to be more room in that engine bay. In the e91 it looks like the rad fan needs to come out to get any sort of access.
I’ve not done an N57 one. I think you’re correct re fan removal. If it’s like an M57 it will have a stretch ac belt which ideally would be replaced too. Officially you need special tools to fit a new stretch belt. Couldn’t hear much but a slight chirp when setting off. All of a sudden the battery light flashes on the dash. Battery not being charged.
s
t. Limped it the 1.5 miles home and opened the bonnet. Belt slipped of the pulleys. Lucky still in one piece with no chunks missing.
Im assuming its the tensioner thats gone.
It was on my list if things to do but looks like it beat me to it. Car just on 102000 miles.
Lucky it wasn’t last week as we had a car full for a camping trip back to North Wales and did 350miles that weekend.
Any one got a good video of a n57 e90 aux belt replacement video as access looks a bit tight. I’ve seen a 5 series video but there looks to be more room in that engine bay. In the e91 it looks like the rad fan needs to come out to get any sort of access.
The fan comes out fairly easily so I wouldn't worry too much about that.
Some pics here doing the alternator on my M57 - https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
I'm having a bit of an ongoing saga with a CEL relating to Vanos (I think).
There seems to be two scenarios where this manifests itself.
When I first got the car (only a couple of months ago) it would occasionally throw a CEL on cold start. Typically with P0015 error which I believe relates to the exhaust side vanos. I have cleaned and swapped solenoids a couple of times and the behaviour is sort of inconsistent. I still often get the same error but not always as soon after start up. Sometimes it's a mile or two down the road, occasionally not at all. Warmer weather, thinner oil maybe? I did notice that both solenoids move freely with a 9v battery attached.
I tried swapping the vanos solenoid cables too just in case but the car immediately ran like a total bag of spanners with those swapped and threw a P0012 code which I think is an inlet vanos code but because the cables were swapped really still and exhaust code?
I also changed the exhaust side cam sensor as the car came with a new spare so I thought why not?
Oil level seems okay, sitting on max but christ I wish it had a dipstick! It had an oil and filter change approx. 3000 miles ago.
Over the last couple of weeks it's started throwing codes after a period at high revs too. I'm not totally clear on which codes arrive first in this scenario and maybe I need to do some further diagnosis to check that but it did it on my way home from getting the AC gassed today after a venture to the red line in 2nd. These are the codes.
P0015 - B camshaft position (had this a few times now and have cleaned and swapped solenoids but it remains on the B camshaft position.
2EF7 - This seems to relate to the thermostat
CDAF - Not clear on what this is
2A82 - Inlet Vanos
3100 - think this just relates to anything that lights up the CEL?
2A87 - Exhaust Vanos
Car runs entirely normally until a code is thrown. No misfires no naughtiness. A restart has all well again.
I'd like to get to the bottom of this and I know the cam ledges could be the ultimate answer but since that is probably the most expensive and extensive fix, I'd like to make sure I've worked through all the diagnosis first.
One thing that is on my mind as I type this is that I had to fill the car with 95 last time I filled up and the car has an evolve map. It has only started giving me the high revs CEL since that refill. Possibly linked or a coincidence? Even if that is part of the problem, I still think I have an on-going vanos issue.
What would you all suggest next? Oil filter lid looks okay and centre assy is present but anything I should check on that?
Worth replacing the Vanos non-return valves or would an inspection of them suffice?
Time to replace both vanos solenoids? They seem to move freely but maybe they could both now be dead? I cannot see any receipts that show them being replaced in the past and the car has done 186k miles. It's just that's another £200 at least to chuck at the car in hope.
Is the thermostat thing significant and maybe even related?
There seems to be two scenarios where this manifests itself.
When I first got the car (only a couple of months ago) it would occasionally throw a CEL on cold start. Typically with P0015 error which I believe relates to the exhaust side vanos. I have cleaned and swapped solenoids a couple of times and the behaviour is sort of inconsistent. I still often get the same error but not always as soon after start up. Sometimes it's a mile or two down the road, occasionally not at all. Warmer weather, thinner oil maybe? I did notice that both solenoids move freely with a 9v battery attached.
I tried swapping the vanos solenoid cables too just in case but the car immediately ran like a total bag of spanners with those swapped and threw a P0012 code which I think is an inlet vanos code but because the cables were swapped really still and exhaust code?
I also changed the exhaust side cam sensor as the car came with a new spare so I thought why not?
Oil level seems okay, sitting on max but christ I wish it had a dipstick! It had an oil and filter change approx. 3000 miles ago.
Over the last couple of weeks it's started throwing codes after a period at high revs too. I'm not totally clear on which codes arrive first in this scenario and maybe I need to do some further diagnosis to check that but it did it on my way home from getting the AC gassed today after a venture to the red line in 2nd. These are the codes.
P0015 - B camshaft position (had this a few times now and have cleaned and swapped solenoids but it remains on the B camshaft position.
2EF7 - This seems to relate to the thermostat
CDAF - Not clear on what this is
2A82 - Inlet Vanos
3100 - think this just relates to anything that lights up the CEL?
2A87 - Exhaust Vanos
Car runs entirely normally until a code is thrown. No misfires no naughtiness. A restart has all well again.
I'd like to get to the bottom of this and I know the cam ledges could be the ultimate answer but since that is probably the most expensive and extensive fix, I'd like to make sure I've worked through all the diagnosis first.
One thing that is on my mind as I type this is that I had to fill the car with 95 last time I filled up and the car has an evolve map. It has only started giving me the high revs CEL since that refill. Possibly linked or a coincidence? Even if that is part of the problem, I still think I have an on-going vanos issue.
What would you all suggest next? Oil filter lid looks okay and centre assy is present but anything I should check on that?
Worth replacing the Vanos non-return valves or would an inspection of them suffice?
Time to replace both vanos solenoids? They seem to move freely but maybe they could both now be dead? I cannot see any receipts that show them being replaced in the past and the car has done 186k miles. It's just that's another £200 at least to chuck at the car in hope.
Is the thermostat thing significant and maybe even related?
JakeT said:
I’d clean out the VANOS check valves, and think about buying new VANOS solenoids. I had a nasty hesitation and replacing the solenoids did go a long way towards sorting it. This was on a 330i. Unfortunately I never had any codes so a bit if parts darts (and a DISA valve) was needed
Cheers. It seems that it's worth at least inspecting the check valves. I've seen some images online of very manky looking ones but mostly they seem to look fine when people remove them even after big mileages. I guess a lot of that will be down to regular servicing. Since it's free, it seems as good a place as any to try next. I'd be tempted to buy new solenoids but just chucking parts at it can get really expensive. I'd happily do it if I were 90% sure they're the culprits but I'm not there yet. Any ideas why the A/C on the drivers side ie warmer than the passenger side?
It’s cool whereas the passenger side is freezing.
Some American forums seem to suggest that a coolant / flush bleed can fix the issue or that the coolant is low. It was nice and cool both sides Sunday and yesterday but not so today.
When it crapped itself last time, both sides were the same.
It’s cool whereas the passenger side is freezing.
Some American forums seem to suggest that a coolant / flush bleed can fix the issue or that the coolant is low. It was nice and cool both sides Sunday and yesterday but not so today.
When it crapped itself last time, both sides were the same.
Court_S said:
Any ideas why the A/C on the drivers side ie warmer than the passenger side?
It’s cool whereas the passenger side is freezing.
Some American forums seem to suggest that a coolant / flush bleed can fix the issue or that the coolant is low. It was nice and cool both sides Sunday and yesterday but not so today.
When it crapped itself last time, both sides were the same.
Is this on the 330i? I know you just did the condenser on that? It is often a sign of low refrigerant but I think there is also a control flap that dictates the blend. Do you get any codes? It’s cool whereas the passenger side is freezing.
Some American forums seem to suggest that a coolant / flush bleed can fix the issue or that the coolant is low. It was nice and cool both sides Sunday and yesterday but not so today.
When it crapped itself last time, both sides were the same.
Gad-Westy said:
Is this on the 330i? I know you just did the condenser on that? It is often a sign of low refrigerant but I think there is also a control flap that dictates the blend. Do you get any codes?
Yeah, on the 330i. Not checked the codes yet; my wife didn’t mention it until late this evening and it’s chucking it down again.
How difficult is the control flap to access if it is that? I’m guessing it’s buried somewhere.
It’s annoying that it’s the drivers side that’s a bit warm and the passenger side cold.
My a/c hasn't been regassed or serviced in the 11 years I've had the car and doesn't really get cold. However, if you shut all the vents apart from the driver's centre vent, it does blow quite cold. It was suggested to me that it's probably closest to the diverter box and so has the most linear run from the condenser...
This reminds me, I need to get it looked at and if everything's ok, get it re-gassed.
ETA: Booked in for next Monday so I guess I'll get to find out what horrors await!
This reminds me, I need to get it looked at and if everything's ok, get it re-gassed.
ETA: Booked in for next Monday so I guess I'll get to find out what horrors await!
Edited by Swervin_Mervin on Wednesday 21st June 10:20
Court_S said:
Gad-Westy said:
Is this on the 330i? I know you just did the condenser on that? It is often a sign of low refrigerant but I think there is also a control flap that dictates the blend. Do you get any codes?
Yeah, on the 330i. Not checked the codes yet; my wife didn’t mention it until late this evening and it’s chucking it down again.
How difficult is the control flap to access if it is that? I’m guessing it’s buried somewhere.
It’s annoying that it’s the drivers side that’s a bit warm and the passenger side cold.
That said, and I hate to say it but the fact that it worked for a short period after regassing really suggests to me that you still have a leak, I guess you'd know if cold air goes all together after a few days. Fingers crossed though.
Gad-Westy said:
I'm having a bit of an ongoing saga with a CEL relating to Vanos (I think).
There seems to be two scenarios where this manifests itself.
When I first got the car (only a couple of months ago) it would occasionally throw a CEL on cold start. Typically with P0015 error which I believe relates to the exhaust side vanos. I have cleaned and swapped solenoids a couple of times and the behaviour is sort of inconsistent. I still often get the same error but not always as soon after start up. Sometimes it's a mile or two down the road, occasionally not at all. Warmer weather, thinner oil maybe? I did notice that both solenoids move freely with a 9v battery attached.
I tried swapping the vanos solenoid cables too just in case but the car immediately ran like a total bag of spanners with those swapped and threw a P0012 code which I think is an inlet vanos code but because the cables were swapped really still and exhaust code?
I also changed the exhaust side cam sensor as the car came with a new spare so I thought why not?
Oil level seems okay, sitting on max but christ I wish it had a dipstick! It had an oil and filter change approx. 3000 miles ago.
Over the last couple of weeks it's started throwing codes after a period at high revs too. I'm not totally clear on which codes arrive first in this scenario and maybe I need to do some further diagnosis to check that but it did it on my way home from getting the AC gassed today after a venture to the red line in 2nd. These are the codes.
P0015 - B camshaft position (had this a few times now and have cleaned and swapped solenoids but it remains on the B camshaft position.
2EF7 - This seems to relate to the thermostat
CDAF - Not clear on what this is
2A82 - Inlet Vanos
3100 - think this just relates to anything that lights up the CEL?
2A87 - Exhaust Vanos
Car runs entirely normally until a code is thrown. No misfires no naughtiness. A restart has all well again.
I'd like to get to the bottom of this and I know the cam ledges could be the ultimate answer but since that is probably the most expensive and extensive fix, I'd like to make sure I've worked through all the diagnosis first.
One thing that is on my mind as I type this is that I had to fill the car with 95 last time I filled up and the car has an evolve map. It has only started giving me the high revs CEL since that refill. Possibly linked or a coincidence? Even if that is part of the problem, I still think I have an on-going vanos issue.
What would you all suggest next? Oil filter lid looks okay and centre assy is present but anything I should check on that?
Worth replacing the Vanos non-return valves or would an inspection of them suffice?
Time to replace both vanos solenoids? They seem to move freely but maybe they could both now be dead? I cannot see any receipts that show them being replaced in the past and the car has done 186k miles. It's just that's another £200 at least to chuck at the car in hope.
Is the thermostat thing significant and maybe even related?
If it's got an Evolve map, it will be set up to run on 98 fuel so could be inducing some fuelling issues with 95 in the tank. I always recommend pulling out the Vanos filters and giving them a clean, as they can get very gunked up. Could be solenoids themselvea - Pierburg items work wonders without going OEM prices. £155 for a pair delivered I paid on eBay.There seems to be two scenarios where this manifests itself.
When I first got the car (only a couple of months ago) it would occasionally throw a CEL on cold start. Typically with P0015 error which I believe relates to the exhaust side vanos. I have cleaned and swapped solenoids a couple of times and the behaviour is sort of inconsistent. I still often get the same error but not always as soon after start up. Sometimes it's a mile or two down the road, occasionally not at all. Warmer weather, thinner oil maybe? I did notice that both solenoids move freely with a 9v battery attached.
I tried swapping the vanos solenoid cables too just in case but the car immediately ran like a total bag of spanners with those swapped and threw a P0012 code which I think is an inlet vanos code but because the cables were swapped really still and exhaust code?
I also changed the exhaust side cam sensor as the car came with a new spare so I thought why not?
Oil level seems okay, sitting on max but christ I wish it had a dipstick! It had an oil and filter change approx. 3000 miles ago.
Over the last couple of weeks it's started throwing codes after a period at high revs too. I'm not totally clear on which codes arrive first in this scenario and maybe I need to do some further diagnosis to check that but it did it on my way home from getting the AC gassed today after a venture to the red line in 2nd. These are the codes.
P0015 - B camshaft position (had this a few times now and have cleaned and swapped solenoids but it remains on the B camshaft position.
2EF7 - This seems to relate to the thermostat
CDAF - Not clear on what this is
2A82 - Inlet Vanos
3100 - think this just relates to anything that lights up the CEL?
2A87 - Exhaust Vanos
Car runs entirely normally until a code is thrown. No misfires no naughtiness. A restart has all well again.
I'd like to get to the bottom of this and I know the cam ledges could be the ultimate answer but since that is probably the most expensive and extensive fix, I'd like to make sure I've worked through all the diagnosis first.
One thing that is on my mind as I type this is that I had to fill the car with 95 last time I filled up and the car has an evolve map. It has only started giving me the high revs CEL since that refill. Possibly linked or a coincidence? Even if that is part of the problem, I still think I have an on-going vanos issue.
What would you all suggest next? Oil filter lid looks okay and centre assy is present but anything I should check on that?
Worth replacing the Vanos non-return valves or would an inspection of them suffice?
Time to replace both vanos solenoids? They seem to move freely but maybe they could both now be dead? I cannot see any receipts that show them being replaced in the past and the car has done 186k miles. It's just that's another £200 at least to chuck at the car in hope.
Is the thermostat thing significant and maybe even related?
Camshaft sensors are cheap and easy to eliminate those as a suspect.
christhreadgill said:
Gad-Westy said:
I'm having a bit of an ongoing saga with a CEL relating to Vanos (I think).
There seems to be two scenarios where this manifests itself.
When I first got the car (only a couple of months ago) it would occasionally throw a CEL on cold start. Typically with P0015 error which I believe relates to the exhaust side vanos. I have cleaned and swapped solenoids a couple of times and the behaviour is sort of inconsistent. I still often get the same error but not always as soon after start up. Sometimes it's a mile or two down the road, occasionally not at all. Warmer weather, thinner oil maybe? I did notice that both solenoids move freely with a 9v battery attached.
I tried swapping the vanos solenoid cables too just in case but the car immediately ran like a total bag of spanners with those swapped and threw a P0012 code which I think is an inlet vanos code but because the cables were swapped really still and exhaust code?
I also changed the exhaust side cam sensor as the car came with a new spare so I thought why not?
Oil level seems okay, sitting on max but christ I wish it had a dipstick! It had an oil and filter change approx. 3000 miles ago.
Over the last couple of weeks it's started throwing codes after a period at high revs too. I'm not totally clear on which codes arrive first in this scenario and maybe I need to do some further diagnosis to check that but it did it on my way home from getting the AC gassed today after a venture to the red line in 2nd. These are the codes.
P0015 - B camshaft position (had this a few times now and have cleaned and swapped solenoids but it remains on the B camshaft position.
2EF7 - This seems to relate to the thermostat
CDAF - Not clear on what this is
2A82 - Inlet Vanos
3100 - think this just relates to anything that lights up the CEL?
2A87 - Exhaust Vanos
Car runs entirely normally until a code is thrown. No misfires no naughtiness. A restart has all well again.
I'd like to get to the bottom of this and I know the cam ledges could be the ultimate answer but since that is probably the most expensive and extensive fix, I'd like to make sure I've worked through all the diagnosis first.
One thing that is on my mind as I type this is that I had to fill the car with 95 last time I filled up and the car has an evolve map. It has only started giving me the high revs CEL since that refill. Possibly linked or a coincidence? Even if that is part of the problem, I still think I have an on-going vanos issue.
What would you all suggest next? Oil filter lid looks okay and centre assy is present but anything I should check on that?
Worth replacing the Vanos non-return valves or would an inspection of them suffice?
Time to replace both vanos solenoids? They seem to move freely but maybe they could both now be dead? I cannot see any receipts that show them being replaced in the past and the car has done 186k miles. It's just that's another £200 at least to chuck at the car in hope.
Is the thermostat thing significant and maybe even related?
If it's got an Evolve map, it will be set up to run on 98 fuel so could be inducing some fuelling issues with 95 in the tank. I always recommend pulling out the Vanos filters and giving them a clean, as they can get very gunked up. Could be solenoids themselvea - Pierburg items work wonders without going OEM prices. £155 for a pair delivered I paid on eBay.There seems to be two scenarios where this manifests itself.
When I first got the car (only a couple of months ago) it would occasionally throw a CEL on cold start. Typically with P0015 error which I believe relates to the exhaust side vanos. I have cleaned and swapped solenoids a couple of times and the behaviour is sort of inconsistent. I still often get the same error but not always as soon after start up. Sometimes it's a mile or two down the road, occasionally not at all. Warmer weather, thinner oil maybe? I did notice that both solenoids move freely with a 9v battery attached.
I tried swapping the vanos solenoid cables too just in case but the car immediately ran like a total bag of spanners with those swapped and threw a P0012 code which I think is an inlet vanos code but because the cables were swapped really still and exhaust code?
I also changed the exhaust side cam sensor as the car came with a new spare so I thought why not?
Oil level seems okay, sitting on max but christ I wish it had a dipstick! It had an oil and filter change approx. 3000 miles ago.
Over the last couple of weeks it's started throwing codes after a period at high revs too. I'm not totally clear on which codes arrive first in this scenario and maybe I need to do some further diagnosis to check that but it did it on my way home from getting the AC gassed today after a venture to the red line in 2nd. These are the codes.
P0015 - B camshaft position (had this a few times now and have cleaned and swapped solenoids but it remains on the B camshaft position.
2EF7 - This seems to relate to the thermostat
CDAF - Not clear on what this is
2A82 - Inlet Vanos
3100 - think this just relates to anything that lights up the CEL?
2A87 - Exhaust Vanos
Car runs entirely normally until a code is thrown. No misfires no naughtiness. A restart has all well again.
I'd like to get to the bottom of this and I know the cam ledges could be the ultimate answer but since that is probably the most expensive and extensive fix, I'd like to make sure I've worked through all the diagnosis first.
One thing that is on my mind as I type this is that I had to fill the car with 95 last time I filled up and the car has an evolve map. It has only started giving me the high revs CEL since that refill. Possibly linked or a coincidence? Even if that is part of the problem, I still think I have an on-going vanos issue.
What would you all suggest next? Oil filter lid looks okay and centre assy is present but anything I should check on that?
Worth replacing the Vanos non-return valves or would an inspection of them suffice?
Time to replace both vanos solenoids? They seem to move freely but maybe they could both now be dead? I cannot see any receipts that show them being replaced in the past and the car has done 186k miles. It's just that's another £200 at least to chuck at the car in hope.
Is the thermostat thing significant and maybe even related?
Camshaft sensors are cheap and easy to eliminate those as a suspect.
Had an interesting day on this front. I decided to check my vanos check valves/filters. Bit of a pain of a job! Didn't take ages but awkward as hell. I was a bit disappointed to find that both valves came out looking remarkably clean. I was sort of hoping to find a smoking gun. I cleaned them anyway and decided to swap them over to see if my fault moved to inlet side. Put it all back together, cleared all fault codes and then went out for a drive.
First thing, AC is a bloody great novelty! Now the second slightly unusual thing was that I got no CEL in first 5 miles or so and I was expecting it as I think most recently I'd normally get something in that time frame from a cold start. It is quite warm today though. I decided to pull over and see if any faults were logged. I had the 2EF7 again (thermostat) and CDAF. I cleared them and carried on. No CEL light still and I'm 10 miles in....
I needed fuel and with the car warmed up and on a long straight approaching the fuel station, I stuck my foot down. And not a lot happened. No boost and then a few seconds later CEL light. Bugger. I pulled in and read the codes, This time I had 2EF7 and CDAF again and a new one 30FF which relates to boost pressure. I was sat there thinking that I must have not reattached a boost pipe properly when I did all the AC stuff but then it occurred to me that the car had boosted fine on the way back from AC refill.
I reset it all again and continued a mile or so to the petrol station and read the codes again. This time I just had CDAF. And then I realised I had a been a total imbecile! To do the check valves I'd moved the vac cannisters and removed one of the hoses and not put it back on again. What an idiot. With that reconnected and the car full of 99, Boost restored, I drove another 25 miles or so and no CEL despite some ventures to the red line.
So, it's a bit too early to celebrate but after cleaning the check valves I have not actually been able to cause a vanos code of any type despite trying my best. I'd be quite surprised if that really is the root of all my problems but I shall keep my fingers very firmly crossed.
Hopefully you’ve got to the bottom of it.
As you know, I’ve been chasing a random CEL light / intake VANOS issue.
I made it to Holyhead today Ok. Since the last appearance, I’ve removed the aftermarket air filter, popped in my new Pierburg solenoids and changed by cam sensors.
I’ve got some new VANOS check valves but haven’t fitted them yet; I had a look and it seemed like a fiddly ball ache so postponed it until I’m feeling more enthusiastic.
As you know, I’ve been chasing a random CEL light / intake VANOS issue.
I made it to Holyhead today Ok. Since the last appearance, I’ve removed the aftermarket air filter, popped in my new Pierburg solenoids and changed by cam sensors.
I’ve got some new VANOS check valves but haven’t fitted them yet; I had a look and it seemed like a fiddly ball ache so postponed it until I’m feeling more enthusiastic.
Court_S said:
Hopefully you’ve got to the bottom of it.
As you know, I’ve been chasing a random CEL light / intake VANOS issue.
I made it to Holyhead today Ok. Since the last appearance, I’ve removed the aftermarket air filter, popped in my new Pierburg solenoids and changed by cam sensors.
I’ve got some new VANOS check valves but haven’t fitted them yet; I had a look and it seemed like a fiddly ball ache so postponed it until I’m feeling more enthusiastic.
It's not actually that bad. I think I just thought it was going to be easier than it was (god knows why, nothing ever is!). Some claim to have done it from above but I can't see how!As you know, I’ve been chasing a random CEL light / intake VANOS issue.
I made it to Holyhead today Ok. Since the last appearance, I’ve removed the aftermarket air filter, popped in my new Pierburg solenoids and changed by cam sensors.
I’ve got some new VANOS check valves but haven’t fitted them yet; I had a look and it seemed like a fiddly ball ache so postponed it until I’m feeling more enthusiastic.
I removed the front part of the O/S wheel arch liner and loosened the vac cannister bracket and header tank and cable tied them up as high as possible. One of them is easy as you can see it. The other one is above it and you really have to feel for that one. I reckon I was done in an hour start to finish. Remember to reattach any hoses!
Gad-Westy said:
It's not actually that bad. I think I just thought it was going to be easier than it was (god knows why, nothing ever is!). Some claim to have done it from above but I can't see how!
I removed the front part of the O/S wheel arch liner and loosened the vac cannister bracket and header tank and cable tied them up as high as possible. One of them is easy as you can see it. The other one is above it and you really have to feel for that one. I reckon I was done in an hour start to finish. Remember to reattach any hoses!
Yeah one looked easy enough, the other less so. It was a hot day and I was tired hence to being chucked on the too hard pile for that day. I’ve bought new ones so I need to get off my butt and pop them in. I removed the front part of the O/S wheel arch liner and loosened the vac cannister bracket and header tank and cable tied them up as high as possible. One of them is easy as you can see it. The other one is above it and you really have to feel for that one. I reckon I was done in an hour start to finish. Remember to reattach any hoses!
Well I clearly spoke too soon on the vanos issue. I’ve driven about 300 miles today and from 200 miles onward I’ve had a CEL light on. Each time I was stationery I restarted but it would come back within a few mins.
I noticed that the oil level had dropped off the full level so I’ve topped it up but I think it’s time to replace the solenoids. Is there a link for the £155 pierburg ones?
I noticed that the oil level had dropped off the full level so I’ve topped it up but I think it’s time to replace the solenoids. Is there a link for the £155 pierburg ones?
Gad-Westy said:
Well I clearly spoke too soon on the vanos issue. I’ve driven about 300 miles today and from 200 miles onward I’ve had a CEL light on. Each time I was stationery I restarted but it would come back within a few mins.
I noticed that the oil level had dropped off the full level so I’ve topped it up but I think it’s time to replace the solenoids. Is there a link for the £155 pierburg ones?
I bought mine from Autodoc.I noticed that the oil level had dropped off the full level so I’ve topped it up but I think it’s time to replace the solenoids. Is there a link for the £155 pierburg ones?
Their delivery isn’t too bad at the moment; order on a Monday when it’s cheap and arrive by Friday or Saturday.
Court_S said:
I bought mine from Autodoc.
Their delivery isn’t too bad at the moment; order on a Monday when it’s cheap and arrive by Friday or Saturday.
Cheers. I’lol take a look tomorrow then. Drove 200 miles today got the CEL a few times. Seems a bit random. Sometimes happens straight away. Sometimes 50miles after last start. Always 2A87 code. Looking back through the error history it’s always been 2A87 (exhaust) despite swapping both solenoids and check valves. I must admit I’d feel better about spending yet another £150 on parts of anybody could explain the logic of why the fault hasn’t swapped sides after swapping solenoids. Their delivery isn’t too bad at the moment; order on a Monday when it’s cheap and arrive by Friday or Saturday.
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