Discussion
Posting for suggestions.
My '95 E36 328i is making a single clunking noise when turning into corners or changing cornering direction RH to LH or vice versa, as well as when setting off from standstill in 1st gear. The noise seems to be coming from the rear of the car. I assume some bush or balljoint is worn somewhere but would like to narrow down the most likely candidates.
Although the car is 22 years old the mileage is only 39k miles and so I assume age-related degradation rather than mileage-related wear. The rear shock top mounts have been replaced last year but everything else is original.
I know rear trailing arm bushes are prone to failure on these, but is there any other problem area I should check out? Also what is the best way to test the various bushes and balljoints for wear?
I assume the issue is not a worn propshaft coupling or bearing as I cannot get the noise to repeat by accelerating repeatedy and lifting off the power.
As a secondary question, is it necessary to stick to original BMW coolant (at £11/litre!) with the M52 engine or could I use any blue-green 2 year life antifreeze?
Thanks for any suggestions.
Ben
My '95 E36 328i is making a single clunking noise when turning into corners or changing cornering direction RH to LH or vice versa, as well as when setting off from standstill in 1st gear. The noise seems to be coming from the rear of the car. I assume some bush or balljoint is worn somewhere but would like to narrow down the most likely candidates.
Although the car is 22 years old the mileage is only 39k miles and so I assume age-related degradation rather than mileage-related wear. The rear shock top mounts have been replaced last year but everything else is original.
I know rear trailing arm bushes are prone to failure on these, but is there any other problem area I should check out? Also what is the best way to test the various bushes and balljoints for wear?
I assume the issue is not a worn propshaft coupling or bearing as I cannot get the noise to repeat by accelerating repeatedy and lifting off the power.
As a secondary question, is it necessary to stick to original BMW coolant (at £11/litre!) with the M52 engine or could I use any blue-green 2 year life antifreeze?
Thanks for any suggestions.
Ben
Unless you don't care about the car I always put G48 into most cars now. If you that coolant is pricey don't go to Ford ; their 10 year coolant is very pricey!
I say that from the last 3 coolant changes I've done. Almost everytime cheap blue coolant always has rust in it the next time around ; the corrosion inhibitors are simply very poor. I've not suffered that issue with OAT based coolants, G48 or genuine coolants ; I suspect Comma's other coolants would be fine too.
It's no suprise some cars gain a reputation for having 'cooling' issues...
I say that from the last 3 coolant changes I've done. Almost everytime cheap blue coolant always has rust in it the next time around ; the corrosion inhibitors are simply very poor. I've not suffered that issue with OAT based coolants, G48 or genuine coolants ; I suspect Comma's other coolants would be fine too.
It's no suprise some cars gain a reputation for having 'cooling' issues...
Thanks for replies. No LSD on my car but I think my local indy put the thicker 75W140 oil in the diff, possibly by mistake.
Boot floor looks intact, but most of it hidden under sound deadening so not sure if I can actually see diff mounting area.
Local specialist thinks noise actually from front suspension (hard to tell from inside car) so has tightened everything up and reckons noise gone. I'll try it on Monday.
Boot floor looks intact, but most of it hidden under sound deadening so not sure if I can actually see diff mounting area.
Local specialist thinks noise actually from front suspension (hard to tell from inside car) so has tightened everything up and reckons noise gone. I'll try it on Monday.
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