The friendly "dumb" bike questions thread

[MikeyB99]

Another one from me....sorry to bombard!

The little "pegs/legs" underneath footpegs on most bikes - do they have a function?

Not sure I've ever seen them on a set of aftermarket rearsets, so wondering why they have them on standard parts when (to my eye) they look pants.

[anonymous-user]

MikeyB99 said:

Another one from me....sorry to bombard!

The little "pegs/legs" underneath footpegs on most bikes - do they have a function?

Not sure I've ever seen them on a set of aftermarket rearsets, so wondering why they have them on standard parts when (to my eye) they look pants.

I always assumed they were for safety. They touch down first so the rest of the foot peg is less likely to dig into the road

Who knows if I'm right though

[RizzoTheRat]

Generally known as "Hero Blobs" as said they'll touch down first and are cheaper to replace than footpegs. Also different length ones can be fitted depending on other accessories, eg a centre stand will sometimes reduce lean angle so you can fit longer hero blobs to make sure you know before the stand hits the ground.

[black-k1]

The “hero blobs” on the bottom of fold up pegs are designed to be the first thing on the bike to touch the ground so the rider knows they’re getting hear the limit. The next thing to touch down is likely to be solid and risks biting into the tarmac, potentially resulting in some form of unplanned event.

[black-k1]

knitware said:

I have a question about swapping rubber brake lines to stainless steel braided lines. As a rule, and given that the rear brake is rarely used, do you just swap over the front? If so, what if the brakes are linked? Any recommendations for fitting, DIY or take it to a garage? Thank you!

Rear brake should be used in pretty much every road situation. If the rubber hoses as shagged, then replace the rear as well. If you just looking for a little extra feel/braking force then don't worry too much about the rear. Your foot is unlikely to be that sensitive.

[Berz]

Why is my wet tyre a 19/69-17? Is the 19 centimetres? Why not do it in millis like all your other tyres, Michelin?

[Dakkon]

black-k1 said:

knitware said:

I have a question about swapping rubber brake lines to stainless steel braided lines. As a rule, and given that the rear brake is rarely used, do you just swap over the front? If so, what if the brakes are linked? Any recommendations for fitting, DIY or take it to a garage? Thank you!

Rear brake should be used in pretty much every road situation. If the rubber hoses as shagged, then replace the rear as well. If you just looking for a little extra feel/braking force then don't worry too much about the rear. Your foot is unlikely to be that sensitive.

I thin this does depend a little on how you were taught to ride, I know some riders that never use the rear brake, whereas I use it all the time.

for slow speed manoeuvring you want to drag the back brake to give you that little extra control.

[black-k1]

Dakkon said:

black-k1 said:

knitware said:

I have a question about swapping rubber brake lines to stainless steel braided lines. As a rule, and given that the rear brake is rarely used, do you just swap over the front? If so, what if the brakes are linked? Any recommendations for fitting, DIY or take it to a garage? Thank you!

Rear brake should be used in pretty much every road situation. If the rubber hoses as shagged, then replace the rear as well. If you just looking for a little extra feel/braking force then don't worry too much about the rear. Your foot is unlikely to be that sensitive.

I thin this does depend a little on how you were taught to ride, I know some riders that never use the rear brake, whereas I use it all the time.

for slow speed manoeuvring you want to drag the back brake to give you that little extra control.

If anyone was taught not to use the rear brake in road situations then the instructor wants shooting. There are VERY few road situations where use of the rear brake will not shorten the stopping distance and lots of situations where it will make a significant difference. While really useful for slow speed control it should be used in every road scenario where brakes are required.

[Prof Prolapse]

black-k1 said:

If anyone was taught not to use the rear brake in road situations then the instructor wants shooting. There are VERY few road situations where use of the rear brake will not shorten the stopping distance and lots of situations where it will make a significant difference. While really useful for slow speed control it should be used in every road scenario where brakes are required.

Agree with this. I’m sure there’s some odd scenario somewhere, but regardless of preference or experience, use of rear brake generally shortens stopping distance.

I don’t do it much as I’m lazy and awesome however.

[Krikkit]

Is an oil cooler guard worth doing? A fancy one is about £35, or I could DIY one with some cheaper mesh... It's right behind the front wheel and looks vulnerable, but the tyres aren't exactly deep-treaded adventure ones either, so I can't see them picking up that much.

[black-k1]

anonymous said:

[redacted]

Not good! Rear should be used in all road circumstances.

[cbmotorsport]

black-k1 said:

anonymous said:

[redacted]

Not good! Rear should be used in all road circumstances.

With respect, and not being arsey, everyone has different styles and different ways of riding a bike. What one should and shouldn't do is entirely up to them. :-)

If I'm ever braking hard enough on the road to need my rear brake as well as the front, the amount of weight over the rear wheel is going to render the rear brake pretty useless anyway, as the front suspension is compressed and the weight is very much over the front.

[Zarco]

What about counter steering? Does it exist?













Just thought I'd throw that in there

[cbmotorsport]

Zarco said:

What about counter steering? Does it exist?













Just thought I'd throw that in there

Not sure if serious...but.....

Of course, it's fundamental to riding a bike (motorbike and pushbike)

[bogie]

I thought the most important use of the rear brake was for wheelie control....well at least until all these modern bikes started coming with electronic gizmos to do that for you

[Catnapper]

Zarco said:

What about counter steering? Does it exist?













Just thought I'd throw that in there

[CousinDupree]

bogie said:

I thought the most important use of the rear brake was for wheelie control....well at least until all these modern bikes started coming with electronic gizmos to do that for you

Lol a miss spent youth using the rear brake to abort woeful wheelie attempts can come in handy sometimes. I very nearly flipped my Sprint 1050 laden with luggage, after getting off the ferry, half asleep. A friend was way ahead so I gave it a bit handful in 2nd at low revs. I guess muscle memory saved it via the rear brake. I sure as hell wasn't conscious enough to do that. Idiot!

Also agree that you should use the rear brake in most situations on the road. You've got two brakes, why ignore one?

I've always disagreed with what used to be known as the CSM shuffle (no knuckles), when learners are taught to hold the rear brake at a standstill, then have to switch legs back and forth to put it into first. I understand the reasoning behind it, but it's still bks and swiftly dumped after training.

Learners also need to watch for locking the rear wheel when braking hard, balancing the rear brake with whatever the engine braking is being used. I've
seen a few inexperienced riders skating into roundabouts with the rear locked up. Modern electronics and slipper clutches help, but it's still something to be practiced.

[Zarco]

CousinDupree said:

I've always disagreed with what used to be known as the CSM shuffle (no knuckles), when learners are taught to hold the rear brake at a standstill, then have to switch legs back and forth to put it into first. I understand the reasoning behind it, but it's still bks and swiftly dumped after training.

I've done the shuffle a few times! I was taught to cover the rear brake at a stand still. Think I was also taught to change down to 1st and hold the clutch in too (or that's what I generally do anyway). The shuffle only becomes a requirement if I've cocked up and stopped in second, or want to knock it into neutral.

Interestingly since getting the bike out this year, I've found myself not religiously covering the rear brake at lights and junctions. Am I getting more advanced?l

[tvrolet]

cbmotorsport said:

black-k1 said:

anonymous said:

[redacted]

Not good! Rear should be used in all road circumstances.

With respect, and not being arsey, everyone has different styles and different ways of riding a bike. What one should and shouldn't do is entirely up to them. :-)

If I'm ever braking hard enough on the road to need my rear brake as well as the front, the amount of weight over the rear wheel is going to render the rear brake pretty useless anyway, as the front suspension is compressed and the weight is very much over the front.

Yea, but until the point you're doing a stoppie and the rear wheel is actually off the ground then there is at least some weight on the rear wheel, and so it can contribute to the stopping effort. But also, if you aren't doing a stoppie then there's momentum in the rear wheel rotating (and unless you've pulled the clutch the motor is also turning the rear wheel) so rear brake also negates these effects. But yes, if the rear wheel is off the ground the rear brake wont contribute anything at that point.

So everyone who can stop from the speed they're going to a halt with the rear wheel off the ground or just kissing the tarmac the whole time will not stop any quicker by using the rear brake. But for everyone else...

Yes the rear brake contribution is bike dependent - my bikes are all long wheelbase and heavy, and so the rear brake alone offers significant stopping power, and none of them are going to get anywhere near a stoppie so the rear brake will always contribute to the stopping. But even on a short wheelbase bike, unless the rear wheel is actually off the ground then there's additional stopping power available from the rear. And (bike dependent of course) you can often over-estimate just how much of the weight has transferred to the front, especially with long-travel suspension and assume there's no weight left on the rear while actually there is.

[cbmotorsport]

tvrolet said:

cbmotorsport said:

black-k1 said:

anonymous said:

[redacted]

Not good! Rear should be used in all road circumstances.

With respect, and not being arsey, everyone has different styles and different ways of riding a bike. What one should and shouldn't do is entirely up to them. :-)

If I'm ever braking hard enough on the road to need my rear brake as well as the front, the amount of weight over the rear wheel is going to render the rear brake pretty useless anyway, as the front suspension is compressed and the weight is very much over the front.

Yea, but until the point you're doing a stoppie and the rear wheel is actually off the ground then there is at least some weight on the rear wheel, and so it can contribute to the stopping effort. But also, if you aren't doing a stoppie then there's momentum in the rear wheel rotating (and unless you've pulled the clutch the motor is also turning the rear wheel) so rear brake also negates these effects. But yes, if the rear wheel is off the ground the rear brake wont contribute anything at that point.

So everyone who can stop from the speed they're going to a halt with the rear wheel off the ground or just kissing the tarmac the whole time will not stop any quicker by using the rear brake. But for everyone else...

Yes the rear brake contribution is bike dependent - my bikes are all long wheelbase and heavy, and so the rear brake alone offers significant stopping power, and none of them are going to get anywhere near a stoppie so the rear brake will always contribute to the stopping. But even on a short wheelbase bike, unless the rear wheel is actually off the ground then there's additional stopping power available from the rear. And (bike dependent of course) you can often over-estimate just how much of the weight has transferred to the front, especially with long-travel suspension and assume there's no weight left on the rear while actually there is.

Not really talking about stoppies, just unweighting the rear through hard braking. You'd have to have a very deft touch not to lock up the rear if you're using a lot of front brake as lack of weight on the rear tyre means less friction.

All your points taken though.