The friendly "dumb" bike questions thread
Discussion
edpryce said:
new to biking. I have a question on topboxes + panniers...
Im looking to get some luggage on my bike to speed up my commute time but hadn't realised quite how expensive pannier racks / mounts are before you even get to the boxes themselves. Im looking at second hand because I don't mind too much what they look like but clearly i want it secure enough to have some confidence.
- does everyone just get the standard box and rack purpose made for their bike?
- if not, how much 'fettling' is common to get luggae to fit bikes?
- how much wiggle room is there with typical fixings ?
- Just how s
t, are the cheap chinese topboxes for £50?
- Is this a scally way of dealing with a problem that I should just return to when i have more cash?
thanks
Keep your eye out on ebay/gumtree for your bike specific rack (usually givi) They come up often enough unless you have an obscure bike. Im looking to get some luggage on my bike to speed up my commute time but hadn't realised quite how expensive pannier racks / mounts are before you even get to the boxes themselves. Im looking at second hand because I don't mind too much what they look like but clearly i want it secure enough to have some confidence.
- does everyone just get the standard box and rack purpose made for their bike?
- if not, how much 'fettling' is common to get luggae to fit bikes?
- how much wiggle room is there with typical fixings ?
- Just how s
t, are the cheap chinese topboxes for £50? - Is this a scally way of dealing with a problem that I should just return to when i have more cash?
thanks
Then you need a top box plate; either a monolock or monokey for Givi. Monolock are for smaller cheaper topboxes, Monokey are for the heavier, larger boxes.
Then you need a matching monolock or monokey top box. All of these things can be picked up pretty cheap if you're not in a rush and keep an eye out for second hand items.
I got a rack, plate and 46ltr top box separately for about £200 I think, for a vfr800.
I wouldn't like to try fettling a rack from another bike to make it fit as they all seem to connect to pillion handle/foot peg mounts which will differ from bike to bike.
Edited by BugLebowski on Friday 7th February 11:38
Byronico said:
edpryce said:
new to biking. I have a question on topboxes + panniers...
Im looking to get some luggage on my bike to speed up my commute time but hadn't realised quite how expensive pannier racks / mounts are before you even get to the boxes themselves. Im looking at second hand because I don't mind too much what they look like but clearly i want it secure enough to have some confidence.
- does everyone just get the standard box and rack purpose made for their bike?
- if not, how much 'fettling' is common to get luggae to fit bikes?
- how much wiggle room is there with typical fixings ?
- Just how st, are the cheap chinese topboxes for £50?
- Is this a scally way of dealing with a problem that I should just return to when i have more cash?
thanks
OEM racks and boxes are a lot more expensive usually.Im looking to get some luggage on my bike to speed up my commute time but hadn't realised quite how expensive pannier racks / mounts are before you even get to the boxes themselves. Im looking at second hand because I don't mind too much what they look like but clearly i want it secure enough to have some confidence.
- does everyone just get the standard box and rack purpose made for their bike?
- if not, how much 'fettling' is common to get luggae to fit bikes?
- how much wiggle room is there with typical fixings ?
- Just how s
t, are the cheap chinese topboxes for £50? - Is this a scally way of dealing with a problem that I should just return to when i have more cash?
thanks
Givi make racks and fittings for most bikes, reasonably priced. Same with top boxes and panniers.
Loads second hand in good condition on ebay/Facebook marketplace etc.
Kappa (owned by Givi) offer the same type racks/boxes at cheaper prices - dont know why this is. But the 2 are compatible with each other as they use the same fittings.
Spanish brand Shad is also worth a look. Similar quality to Givi and Kappa.
Whatever you buy, make sure you can fit your helmet in it!
The only things to watch out for with the cheaper boxes are: can they be removed from the bike early? Some bolt on to the rack, which makes them practically impossible to take with you. Sometimes it is nice to just unclip a top box and carry it like a suitcase to take stuff into a hotel or whatever.
The better-quality boxes should be able to be unlocked and slid off the rack.
Are the cheap boxes waterproof? I had a non-sealed top box, and due to the aerodynamics it would suck in a surprising amount of water when it was wet.
I've always had a top box on my bikes. Makes them practical. Nothing more annoying than travelling home from work and you want to pick up a bottle of wine/loaf of bread but have to travel home then go out again because you can't carry it. Means i can use my bike when i want to go to the gym, swimming, away for a night, shopping, etc.
horsemeatscandal said:
horsemeatscandal said:
The light to indicate the traction control is off on my bike keeps coming on, seemingly randomly. I turn it back on, it turns itself off again, then maybe back on. My old bike didn't have TC so I'm not familiar with how it's supposed to work. Will check the book tonight and/or will mention at 600 mile service. Any ideas?
MY2019 Honda CB650R.
I figured it out. Conclusion: I'm an idiot. MY2019 Honda CB650R.
Not moving quick enough to 'calibrate' it and thinking it was still on because of a problem? Tbf, I was at the dealer the other day and someone asked why the TC and ABS were lit up before he set off.
TommyBuoy said:
Come on, what was it?
Not moving quick enough to 'calibrate' it and thinking it was still on because of a problem? Tbf, I was at the dealer the other day and someone asked why the TC and ABS were lit up before he set off.
I did that years ago when i bought a bike on eBay that had ABS. Started bike, waited a bit, ABS light didn't go off... I pointed it out to the vendor and he pointed out that it only went off once you moved.Not moving quick enough to 'calibrate' it and thinking it was still on because of a problem? Tbf, I was at the dealer the other day and someone asked why the TC and ABS were lit up before he set off.
In my defence, i was only used to car ABS, which tests the system while stationary so any lights are (literally) a warning.
Probably being mentioned at some point during this thread, but here goes...
A couple of weeks after cleaning the bike and putting it back in the garage for the next sunny day, I came to get it out, put the key in, turn it and nothing!
I have left it a while, the battery must be flat. Out comes the trickle charger, left for a few hours, key in and try and start it again. Nothing! Starting to panic now!
I then turned to the forums and google and came to the conclusion that my battery was knackered, then it came to me.
KILL SWITCH - F**K! Face palm! Must have knocked it when cleaning it.
Anyone else fallen foul to the dreaded kill switch!
A couple of weeks after cleaning the bike and putting it back in the garage for the next sunny day, I came to get it out, put the key in, turn it and nothing!
I have left it a while, the battery must be flat. Out comes the trickle charger, left for a few hours, key in and try and start it again. Nothing! Starting to panic now!
I then turned to the forums and google and came to the conclusion that my battery was knackered, then it came to me.
KILL SWITCH - F**K! Face palm! Must have knocked it when cleaning it.
Anyone else fallen foul to the dreaded kill switch!
CousinDupree said:
black-k1 said:
Not needed. I've been commuting for many years and never found a requirement for a top box. Just about OK on a GoldWing or R1200RT but on a "decent bike"? 
Lol! A lockable 50+ litre boot is dam useful. Use one for while and you'll never put up with carrying a helmet around again. Or get stuck filtering with several bags of shopping. Or get back ache / wet / shove a rusksack in your passengers face. Lovely 
Just about every practical bike / scooter is fitted with them abroad, but clearly they are not for everyone!
TheInternet said:
Which one would you recommend to replace a top box?
I've got a Heald waterproof roll bag, it came with a base that strapped to the seat, then the bag just zipped in and out for easy removal. I've stopped using the base, as one of the clips broke, now I just strap it to the seat. Works very well.
Also looking at Autokicker loader bag, as they can be attached to each other to carry extra items
TommyBuoy said:
Come on, what was it?
Not moving quick enough to 'calibrate' it and thinking it was still on because of a problem? Tbf, I was at the dealer the other day and someone asked why the TC and ABS were lit up before he set off.
Okay, okay....Not moving quick enough to 'calibrate' it and thinking it was still on because of a problem? Tbf, I was at the dealer the other day and someone asked why the TC and ABS were lit up before he set off.
I was pushing the button when changing gear and didn't notice because I'm wearing thick gloves. To be fair, the button is in a stupid place. It's placed so that it's easy to turn on and off when riding, but the manual instructs not to turn on and off while riding, so they may as well have put it under the seat and saved me some hassle. Also, I now know of two other people who've done the same which makes me feel better.
To combine a few posts, I initially started learning on a 250 and thought I was loving it, but in the process bought a 650. The difference from a learner comfort perspective was night and day. So much easier and more pleasant, and more fun. And it had a top box, which was so useful. I was one of those learners that thought smaller was less scary, it’s not.
To get away from topboxes....
The kids' Skyteam Ace 50 has blown the headlight again due to it shaking itself to bits (electrics are fine) so I've been looking to see what else I can use. It's a 50cc 4 speed, 4 stroke single that goes somewhat faster than it really should (especially down big, long hills followed by me on my Ducati so I know what it was doing !) and it vibrates everywhere regardless of the revs.
Not wanting to buy a bulb every week, I looked at what can be done and I've found an LED equivalent.
I've swapped brake light bulbs for LEDs on my bike and they're awesome but was wondering if LED headlight bulbs are really legal because of the light spread and if they'll cope with lots shaking? It's a BA20D if that's of any interest...
The kids' Skyteam Ace 50 has blown the headlight again due to it shaking itself to bits (electrics are fine) so I've been looking to see what else I can use. It's a 50cc 4 speed, 4 stroke single that goes somewhat faster than it really should (especially down big, long hills followed by me on my Ducati so I know what it was doing !) and it vibrates everywhere regardless of the revs.
Not wanting to buy a bulb every week, I looked at what can be done and I've found an LED equivalent.
I've swapped brake light bulbs for LEDs on my bike and they're awesome but was wondering if LED headlight bulbs are really legal because of the light spread and if they'll cope with lots shaking? It's a BA20D if that's of any interest...
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