The friendly "dumb" bike questions thread
Discussion
tvrolet said:
Worst I ever rode was a Harley sportster (in the days before the rubber mounted the motor); if the mirrors turning in to a but wasn't bad enough at anything about 60 the vibration was so bad it was blurring my actual vision - never had that before or since.
When the mousse broke up in my KTM rear tyre it did the same - at 40mph I couldn't see, really weird experience.
Limped home at 30ish
I adjusted the chain on my bike last night, used an alignment tool on the sprocket as the bike felt a little off the last time I took it out, the marks on the swingarm don't match up on each side. I have read this is quite common for them to be out but wondered if there was a decent way of checking the rear wheel alignment?
When I took it off the stand the chain felt perhaps a little tight for the spec so I think I'll use the screwdriver in sprocket trick before I tighten up the axle nut as I think this added a bit of additional tension. First time adjusting chain slack so I have no baseline of what to expect and haynes just advises to use the marks.
I'd like to get out for a couple of hours tonight before it pisses down tomorrow.
When I took it off the stand the chain felt perhaps a little tight for the spec so I think I'll use the screwdriver in sprocket trick before I tighten up the axle nut as I think this added a bit of additional tension. First time adjusting chain slack so I have no baseline of what to expect and haynes just advises to use the marks.
I'd like to get out for a couple of hours tonight before it pisses down tomorrow.
Pete-mojsh said:
I adjusted the chain on my bike last night, used an alignment tool on the sprocket as the bike felt a little off the last time I took it out, the marks on the swingarm don't match up on each side. I have read this is quite common for them to be out but wondered if there was a decent way of checking the rear wheel alignment?
When I took it off the stand the chain felt perhaps a little tight for the spec so I think I'll use the screwdriver in sprocket trick before I tighten up the axle nut as I think this added a bit of additional tension. First time adjusting chain slack so I have no baseline of what to expect and haynes just advises to use the marks.
I'd like to get out for a couple of hours tonight before it pisses down tomorrow.
You’ll quite often find that the chain tensions up when you tighten the axle nuts. When I took it off the stand the chain felt perhaps a little tight for the spec so I think I'll use the screwdriver in sprocket trick before I tighten up the axle nut as I think this added a bit of additional tension. First time adjusting chain slack so I have no baseline of what to expect and haynes just advises to use the marks.
I'd like to get out for a couple of hours tonight before it pisses down tomorrow.
Always check it at a few points afterwards to make sure it’s the correct tension, snapped chains are no fun.
If it’s even a little tight it’s best to do it again.
There are various ways of checking alignment, I find a long straight bit of wood held against the back wheel allows you to compare against the front wheel.
Have a look online, there are loads of methods.
To be honest I just use the marks, or measure from the ends of the swing arm.
I’d line it up with the marks the first time, check with the bit of wood to ensure they’re near enough then use the marks from there if there’s any doubt.
Edited by Speed addicted on Friday 24th July 15:06
I'll be getting the tools out when I get home, 35-45mm is the range and I think it's a bit too tight at the moment.
The sheer number of methods and how people use them is what's confusing, i was hoping the alignment tool would be useful as it's one fixed point and thought it would be consistently repeatable. If I have a straight enough piece of wood I'll test that out, may have some stuff in the shed that may do. Not sure I want to be messing around with string.
The sheer number of methods and how people use them is what's confusing, i was hoping the alignment tool would be useful as it's one fixed point and thought it would be consistently repeatable. If I have a straight enough piece of wood I'll test that out, may have some stuff in the shed that may do. Not sure I want to be messing around with string.
Pete-mojsh said:
I'll be getting the tools out when I get home, 35-45mm is the range and I think it's a bit too tight at the moment.
The sheer number of methods and how people use them is what's confusing, i was hoping the alignment tool would be useful as it's one fixed point and thought it would be consistently repeatable. If I have a straight enough piece of wood I'll test that out, may have some stuff in the shed that may do. Not sure I want to be messing around with string.
I’ve tried string and got very frustrated! The sheer number of methods and how people use them is what's confusing, i was hoping the alignment tool would be useful as it's one fixed point and thought it would be consistently repeatable. If I have a straight enough piece of wood I'll test that out, may have some stuff in the shed that may do. Not sure I want to be messing around with string.
If you’re not sure about the marks in the swing arm you could measure both sides from the end of the arm to the pivot point. That way you know both arms are the same length. The swing arm pivot is unlikely to be out of alignment.
From there measure from the ends of the swing arm to the marks and make sure they’re the same.
Then just use the marks!
The problem with bikes not being symmetrical is that you can easily trick yourself into thinking things are not straight when they are, measurement solves this.
Just got home and had a quick check, no clear line to the swingarm pivot so measured from the edge of the adjuster block to the end of the swingarm and they are pretty much on it, marks are out by a small amount but enough to not be too reliant on them.
Chain slack needs letting out about 5mm so not a lot but enough, I probably had it right and the extra tension was put on when I tightened the axle nut. Hopefully a quick tweak after dinner will get it right and I can have a decent couple of hours.
I think I'll be replacing the rear tyre soon anyway so will probably get the local place to check the alignment then use that as a starting point for future adjustment.
Chain slack needs letting out about 5mm so not a lot but enough, I probably had it right and the extra tension was put on when I tightened the axle nut. Hopefully a quick tweak after dinner will get it right and I can have a decent couple of hours.
I think I'll be replacing the rear tyre soon anyway so will probably get the local place to check the alignment then use that as a starting point for future adjustment.
Speed addicted said:
Prof Prolapse said:
Nah, unless there’s new info out there. I just use parrafin/WD40 to clean, and as above Dry lube for a road bike, (or wax for the ADV bike for off road as it resists water better I believe).
Pretty sure that’s the standard approach.
https://www.bennetts.co.uk/bikesocial/news-and-views/advice/bike-maintenance/is-chain-lube-necessaryPretty sure that’s the standard approach.
So the lube shouldn’t get past the seals in the chain, but should lube and protect the outer plates.
Ride bike through summer and autumn.
On the last day of riding when you come back home give the bike a wash (throw bucket of soapy water over it and clean the plastics and wheel rims) then put it in to garage to sleep. Note chain was sort of cleaned at this point.
Come spring, dig bike out, wipe dust off, note that it really doesn't roll with no resistance and find out that some chain links are stuck in the position they've been in the past 4 months.
According to Bennets this cannot happen. The grease inside the links should still be there and doing its job. It's not -50C so grease isn't frozen. Bike was stored inside garage that's attached to house so never gets that cold. Crud was washed off before storage so no rust.
So what's binding? Answer: The dry O/X rings that have no grease because it's seeped out past the rings, and I didn't bother to lube the chain after washing it. As I did a half arsed job of cleaning the chain some links are dry, some have some lube left on them, so some links sometimes bind.
Easy fix: lube chain (lots), push bike around a bit or very gentle riding for few hundred feet.
Anyone else experienced the same?
P.S. Scottoiler. Fit (with the extended reservoir) and then forget all about lubing chain. Turn the flow rate up more than is necessary and you can also forget about cleaning the chain as it never needs it. (OK, the wheel and swing arm will definitely need it but that's what ACP50 is for!)
My favourite thread......
I was out last night and the weather is definitely turning, I have RST textiles and they have the quilted liner but is it worth buying some base layers? I am starting to have lessons from next week and the likelihood is that these will continue through the autumn until I can get test dates, I know they say that the textiles are waterproof but I'll be looking to get some sort of over protection from the rain as I don't feel the RST stuff will stand up to any sustained period if rain. The Richa boots I have should be OK, I hope.
I used some decent base layer stuff when I was still playing football but not sure how much benefit the thinner stuff would give to wind chill, having dug them out of the cupboard they also have an ingrained must of council pitches.
I intend to keep riding over the autumn and winter but as I don't need to for a commute it's purely for my own enjoyment so won't have to deal with ice, regular downpours or anything, just autumn/winter gear for the relatively fair weather biker.
I was out last night and the weather is definitely turning, I have RST textiles and they have the quilted liner but is it worth buying some base layers? I am starting to have lessons from next week and the likelihood is that these will continue through the autumn until I can get test dates, I know they say that the textiles are waterproof but I'll be looking to get some sort of over protection from the rain as I don't feel the RST stuff will stand up to any sustained period if rain. The Richa boots I have should be OK, I hope.
I used some decent base layer stuff when I was still playing football but not sure how much benefit the thinner stuff would give to wind chill, having dug them out of the cupboard they also have an ingrained must of council pitches.
I intend to keep riding over the autumn and winter but as I don't need to for a commute it's purely for my own enjoyment so won't have to deal with ice, regular downpours or anything, just autumn/winter gear for the relatively fair weather biker.
Sounds exactly like my gear!
I have some skiing thermal base layers which are quite thin, but just add enough with the textiles with all the quilted bits in. With all that lot on the coldest bit is my hands.
Oh, and definitely invest in a rain bag for wet weather running if you're going to be out for more than brief periods.
I have some skiing thermal base layers which are quite thin, but just add enough with the textiles with all the quilted bits in. With all that lot on the coldest bit is my hands.
Oh, and definitely invest in a rain bag for wet weather running if you're going to be out for more than brief periods.
Handguards combined with heated grips work really well, but don't suit all types of bike. Heated grips on their own aren't so good in the rain though as goretex is intended to let water vapour through from the warm side to the cold side.
Never underestimate the power of base layers, a cheap set of thermals are thin enough to go under your existing kit and make a huge difference. As for waterproofs over the top, once piece waterproofs look like a great idea but are a pain to put on in a hurry compared to 2 piece waterproofs, and a thin waterproof overjacket actually provides a surprising amount of additional warmth in the dry if needed.
Never underestimate the power of base layers, a cheap set of thermals are thin enough to go under your existing kit and make a huge difference. As for waterproofs over the top, once piece waterproofs look like a great idea but are a pain to put on in a hurry compared to 2 piece waterproofs, and a thin waterproof overjacket actually provides a surprising amount of additional warmth in the dry if needed.
fwaggie said:
P.S. Scottoiler. Fit (with the extended reservoir) and then forget all about lubing chain. Turn the flow rate up more than is necessary and you can also forget about cleaning the chain as it never needs it. (OK, the wheel and swing arm will definitely need it but that's what ACP50 is for!)
No, my swing arm and wheel never need cleaning either as they have nice protective coating of scott oil to keep the water and road grime off Edited by RizzoTheRat on Tuesday 25th August 14:14
A500leroy said:
Are all front master cylinders universal or model specific? just looked at a new one for mine cause it looks rough and its over £300 new, I only paid £900 for the whole bike!
Needs to be good quality, not random eBay crap.Needs to fit the 'bars & around the switchgear.
Needs to have the same diameter piston (unless you are purposely trying to change the feel).
(Paint it.
)gareth_r said:
A500leroy said:
Are all front master cylinders universal or model specific? just looked at a new one for mine cause it looks rough and its over £300 new, I only paid £900 for the whole bike!
Needs to be good quality, not random eBay crap.Needs to fit the 'bars & around the switchgear.
Needs to have the same diameter piston (unless you are purposely trying to change the feel).
(Paint it.
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