The friendly "dumb" bike questions thread

[Krikkit]

Pebbles167 said:

Just got a bike back on the road after 8 years sitting idle. Changed the oil & filter, put new stuff in and within a couple of minutes of it running it's looking jet black in the sight glass.

My thoughts were that it's some of the old stuff that didnt come out contaminating it.

My plan was to leave it in for 100 miles and change it all again. Sensible?

You could change it whenever, possibly think about throwing a double-change about it. As you've seen, you can't get it all out in one go, so a pair of changes will help reduce how much of the original oil is left.

Out of interest is it an air-cooled bike? On mine, even with brand new oil, the oil is cooked black after a couple of hours.

[talksthetorque]

Pebbles167 said:

Just got a bike back on the road after 8 years sitting idle. Changed the oil & filter, put new stuff in and within a couple of minutes of it running it's looking jet black in the sight glass.

My thoughts were that it's some of the old stuff that didnt come out contaminating it.

My plan was to leave it in for 100 miles and change it all again. Sensible?

Yep, used to be a thing to put a flush through an engine before putting the new oil in to clear out the crap.
Not sure it's done that much these days, with new tech, engine design and oil quality progress.
But you're dealing with something that has been sat around a while, so may help get any sticky bits out.
Never done it, so can't make any recommendations.

You could also take it apart and clean it with a toothbrush

[_Neal_]

Lukas239 said:

My Nolan does this. First ever helmet and leaves imprints on my forehead after 30 mins and a headache after 1 hour. Always thought the headache was due to dehydration/squinting but it's this. One of those things you find out AFTER buying. Not sure if there is a way to 'spot reduce' right spots?

How many miles/hours have you worn it for so far? The lining will compress but it's whether it compresses enough to take the tight spots out, or whether you need to try a new lid. Headaches from your lid being too tight really isn't good.

[Pete-mojsh]

I'm back again....

My MT125 had some aftermarket renthal handlebars when I bought it, I wasn't really a fan but have just been enjoying the summer so left them on with some original handlebars bought and have been putting the job off for a while.

I've started the job tonight and switched over the bars with no real issue, incidentally the haynes manual had a very inefficient approach to this. The renthal and original bars are the same 22mm diameter, the switchgear was solid on the old bars but on the originals they don't get tight enough to clamp on properly. Any ideas why? I don't want to bodge it so will do some Googling and revisit the haynes manual but it's a bit confusing.

Edit: I think I may know the problem, I'm putting it down to extreme tiredness, various aches and pains and fading light. Will have another look tomorrow.

Edited by Pete-mojsh on Tuesday 22 September 20:21

[Speed addicted]

Pete-mojsh said:

I'm back again....

My MT125 had some aftermarket renthal handlebars when I bought it, I wasn't really a fan but have just been enjoying the summer so left them on with some original handlebars bought and have been putting the job off for a while.

I've started the job tonight and switched over the bars with no real issue, incidentally the haynes manual had a very inefficient approach to this. The renthal and original bars are the same 22mm diameter, the switchgear was solid on the old bars but on the originals they don't get tight enough to clamp on properly. Any ideas why? I don't want to bodge it so will do some Googling and revisit the haynes manual but it's a bit confusing.

Edit: I think I may know the problem, I'm putting it down to extreme tiredness, various aches and pains and fading light. Will have another look tomorrow.

Edited by Pete-mojsh on Tuesday 22 September 20:21

Some genuine bars have drilled holes to take plastic spike things moulded into the inside of the switchgear, these locate the switchgear on the bars instead of using clamping force,

Lazy (most) people cut these off to save drilling the bars when they fit aftermarket ones, then use tape or something if additional friction is needed.
Then when you go to put standard bars on they won’t locate properly.

[Pothole]

Speed addicted said:

Pete-mojsh said:

I'm back again....

My MT125 had some aftermarket renthal handlebars when I bought it, I wasn't really a fan but have just been enjoying the summer so left them on with some original handlebars bought and have been putting the job off for a while.

I've started the job tonight and switched over the bars with no real issue, incidentally the haynes manual had a very inefficient approach to this. The renthal and original bars are the same 22mm diameter, the switchgear was solid on the old bars but on the originals they don't get tight enough to clamp on properly. Any ideas why? I don't want to bodge it so will do some Googling and revisit the haynes manual but it's a bit confusing.

Edit: I think I may know the problem, I'm putting it down to extreme tiredness, various aches and pains and fading light. Will have another look tomorrow.

Edited by Pete-mojsh on Tuesday 22 September 20:21

Some genuine bars have drilled holes to take plastic spike things moulded into the inside of the switchgear, these locate the switchgear on the bars instead of using clamping force,

Lazy (most) people cut these off to save drilling the bars when they fit aftermarket ones, then use tape or something if additional friction is needed.
Then when you go to put standard bars on they won’t locate properly.

Skateboard grip tape works well

[gareth_r]

Speed addicted said:

Some genuine bars have drilled holes to take plastic spike things moulded into the inside of the switchgear, these locate the switchgear on the bars instead of using clamping force,

Lazy (most) people cut these off to save drilling the bars when they fit aftermarket ones, then use tape or something if additional friction is needed. Then when you go to put standard bars on they won’t locate properly.

Perhaps they are not lazy.
Perhaps they read the instructions.



Renthal: Handlebar Warnings >>>> www.renthal.com/moto/handlebar-warnings

7/8" Handlebars
Do not modify the handlebars.
Do not centre punch, drill into or modify bars or clamps.
Do not centre punch or in any way mark the handlebar. Physical marking of the handlebar can lead to stress raisers.

Fatbar®
Do not modify the handlebars.
Do not centre punch, drill or in any way mark the handlebar. Physical marking of the handlebar can lead to stress raisers.

Twinwall®
Do not modify the handlebars.
Do not centre punch, drill or in any way mark the handlebar. Physical marking of the handlebar can lead to stress raisers.

[Speed addicted]

gareth_r said:

Speed addicted said:

Some genuine bars have drilled holes to take plastic spike things moulded into the inside of the switchgear, these locate the switchgear on the bars instead of using clamping force,

Lazy (most) people cut these off to save drilling the bars when they fit aftermarket ones, then use tape or something if additional friction is needed. Then when you go to put standard bars on they won’t locate properly.

Perhaps they are not lazy.
Perhaps they read the instructions.



Renthal: Handlebar Warnings >>>> www.renthal.com/moto/handlebar-warnings

7/8" Handlebars
Do not modify the handlebars.
Do not centre punch, drill into or modify bars or clamps.
Do not centre punch or in any way mark the handlebar. Physical marking of the handlebar can lead to stress raisers.

Fatbar®
Do not modify the handlebars.
Do not centre punch, drill or in any way mark the handlebar. Physical marking of the handlebar can lead to stress raisers.

Twinwall®
Do not modify the handlebars.
Do not centre punch, drill or in any way mark the handlebar. Physical marking of the handlebar can lead to stress raisers.

Read instructions? Are you mad?

Lazy or correct it’s probably why the controls won’t locate!

[Pete-mojsh]

Speed addicted said:

Some genuine bars have drilled holes to take plastic spike things moulded into the inside of the switchgear, these locate the switchgear on the bars instead of using clamping force,

Lazy (most) people cut these off to save drilling the bars when they fit aftermarket ones, then use tape or something if additional friction is needed.
Then when you go to put standard bars on they won’t locate properly.

Got around to checking, exactly as suspected where the locating bits have been cut off. I have managed to locate some replacement switches on ebay that are about half an hour away from my instructor so will see if I can get them tomorrow. It looks easier to just use the top section of the switch and relocate the current connections in the new switch, I really can't be dealing with extracting the wiring, throttle tube and cable etc

[Andy XRV]

I'm putting my RSVR track bike back on the road. I bought a rear seat fairing and cowl from ebay but the clip that holds the cowl on is missing. Does anyone what the female part of the brass plunger is called so I can search for one?

[Andy XRV]

I think your might have just solved my problem! It must be the pillion seat lock I need

Cheers for that, off to search for one

[S2r]

I'm upgrading the front brakes on my bike, I've got the calipers and have been looking at replacement discs. The ones I have been looking at seem to have 5 or 6 rivets / buttons but I've been offered some and they have 9.

This got me thinking about the buttons and I understand what they do but is more better ? If so, why?

Un-sprung weight difference would be negligible and I doubt they could transfer significantly more loading through to the rotors for harder braking on a road bike so are they there just for looks or for some other reason??

[Speed addicted]

S2r said:

I'm upgrading the front brakes on my bike, I've got the calipers and have been looking at replacement discs. The ones I have been looking at seem to have 5 or 6 rivets / buttons but I've been offered some and they have 9.

This got me thinking about the buttons and I understand what they do but is more better ? If so, why?

Un-sprung weight difference would be negligible and I doubt they could transfer significantly more loading through to the rotors for harder braking on a road bike so are they there just for looks or for some other reason??

I suppose they might be more resistant to warping as they’re better supported. I think...

[gareth_r]

Andy XRV said:

I'm putting my RSVR track bike back on the road. I bought a rear seat fairing and cowl from ebay but the clip that holds the cowl on is missing. Does anyone what the female part of the brass plunger is called so I can search for one?

If you need to check stuff like that, Fowlers (and others, no doubt) have the Aprilia parts catalogue online.


https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/

[Krikkit]

Speed addicted said:

S2r said:

I'm upgrading the front brakes on my bike, I've got the calipers and have been looking at replacement discs. The ones I have been looking at seem to have 5 or 6 rivets / buttons but I've been offered some and they have 9.

This got me thinking about the buttons and I understand what they do but is more better ? If so, why?

Un-sprung weight difference would be negligible and I doubt they could transfer significantly more loading through to the rotors for harder braking on a road bike so are they there just for looks or for some other reason??

I suppose they might be more resistant to warping as they’re better supported. I think...

Could just be a simple design choice of sticking more "spokes" (for want of the right word) between the hub attachment and the rotor side. There wouldn't be much of an advantage/disadvantage to a different number, as you could make some of it thinner anyway...

If they're aftermarket it could also be to get around certain patents from the OEM.

[Rubins4]

CBT passed and Theory test booked for mid-November. What's the best approach (effectiveness and value for money) to swatting up; online practice tests, nose in a hard copy book...?

The CBT instructor mentioned a DVSA app for a fiver; sounds good but id prefer not to spend any more time staring at my phone.

Any previous experience welcomed.

[Krikkit]

Rubins4 said:

CBT passed and Theory test booked for mid-November. What's the best approach (effectiveness and value for money) to swatting up; online practice tests, nose in a hard copy book...?

The CBT instructor mentioned a DVSA app for a fiver; sounds good but id prefer not to spend any more time staring at my phone.

Any previous experience welcomed.

I used this when I did mine: https://smile.amazon.co.uk/Complete-Motorcycle-The...

Stick it on a laptop, lets you do the questions in a near-copy of the environment, and the latest versions of the hazard perception test.

[vindaloo79]

Rubins4 said:

CBT passed and Theory test booked for mid-November. What's the best approach (effectiveness and value for money) to swatting up; online practice tests, nose in a hard copy book...?

The CBT instructor mentioned a DVSA app for a fiver; sounds good but id prefer not to spend any more time staring at my phone.

Any previous experience welcomed.

I bought an iPhone app called Driving Theory Test 4 in 1 Kit by Focus Media version 2.1.61. Was like £5.99 or something. I spent several hours over a month. It includes hazard perception and a couple of the actual examples came up in the actual test.

I scored a miraculous 50/50 on the Theory and maybe like 75-80% on Hazards.

Given the outcome I would recommend it.

[Rubins4]

Brill, thank you both. I'll follow the thinks up this evening and come to a decision.

@Krikkit, I didn't realize you frequented these forums too.

[Krikkit]

Rubins4 said:

@Krikkit, I didn't realize you frequented these forums too.

Indeed, it's this subforum that nudged me into getting a licence and doing it