The friendly "dumb" bike questions thread
Discussion
My turn for a "dumb" question....
I don't think the screen on my FZ6 has been cleaned since the day it was first sold, giving it a clean has made little difference, it's as if all the fly detritus on there has eaten into the perspex.
How can I get rid of it and bring it back to near normal?
Thanks
I don't think the screen on my FZ6 has been cleaned since the day it was first sold, giving it a clean has made little difference, it's as if all the fly detritus on there has eaten into the perspex.
How can I get rid of it and bring it back to near normal?
Thanks
Amused2death said:
My turn for a "dumb" question....
I don't think the screen on my FZ6 has been cleaned since the day it was first sold, giving it a clean has made little difference, it's as if all the fly detritus on there has eaten into the perspex.
How can I get rid of it and bring it back to near normal?
Thanks
Buy a new one, they are only 30 quid or so on ebay.I don't think the screen on my FZ6 has been cleaned since the day it was first sold, giving it a clean has made little difference, it's as if all the fly detritus on there has eaten into the perspex.
How can I get rid of it and bring it back to near normal?
Thanks
Amused2death said:
My turn for a "dumb" question....
I don't think the screen on my FZ6 has been cleaned since the day it was first sold, giving it a clean has made little difference, it's as if all the fly detritus on there has eaten into the perspex.
How can I get rid of it and bring it back to near normal?
Thanks
Polish it with toothpaste.I don't think the screen on my FZ6 has been cleaned since the day it was first sold, giving it a clean has made little difference, it's as if all the fly detritus on there has eaten into the perspex.
How can I get rid of it and bring it back to near normal?
Thanks
The plastic headlight covers on my old BMW car would polish up a treat with a bit of Aquafresh 3 on kitchen roll and some elbow grease.
Why don't motorcycles have self adjusting tappets like cars do ?
I haven't checked and adjusted the valve clearances on a car since my Triumph Spitfire eons ago - and I don't think the rocker/cam cover has had to be removed on any car I've owned for the last 20 years or so.
Why is it different for bikes ? Particularly so since access issues often make it a pain even if you're confident enough in your spannering skills to DIY.
Please don't tell me its about protecting dealer revenues .....
I haven't checked and adjusted the valve clearances on a car since my Triumph Spitfire eons ago - and I don't think the rocker/cam cover has had to be removed on any car I've owned for the last 20 years or so.
Why is it different for bikes ? Particularly so since access issues often make it a pain even if you're confident enough in your spannering skills to DIY.
Please don't tell me its about protecting dealer revenues .....
Some bikes don't have shim & bucket arrangements, Harley's, Buells, I read some Moto Guzzis. Lower RPM engines.
I read it's because the very high RPM typical of motorcycle engines makes the engineering of them considerably more difficult. Motorcycle technology also seems to move much slower than cars, so "if it aint broke".
I've also heard there's often packaging issues, but not sure about that one.
ETA: I would think it's a job a dealer would hate so doubt they have an interest. Aside from it being a fiddly job, it should always be done on a stone cold engine, so they should in theory have the bike overnight, which is a total faff for them.
I read it's because the very high RPM typical of motorcycle engines makes the engineering of them considerably more difficult. Motorcycle technology also seems to move much slower than cars, so "if it aint broke".
I've also heard there's often packaging issues, but not sure about that one.
ETA: I would think it's a job a dealer would hate so doubt they have an interest. Aside from it being a fiddly job, it should always be done on a stone cold engine, so they should in theory have the bike overnight, which is a total faff for them.
Edited by Prof Prolapse on Tuesday 10th August 11:02
As above - rpm of typical bike motors and size. Not having to adjust the valves is due to hydraulic lifters. They're typically little cylinders with a piston inside with a hole at the side that's linked into the high pressure oil feed. They go somewhere between the cam and the valve and move up and down within the valve train - in US style OHV V8s they're in the block at the bottom of the pushrods, in OHC engines they're in the heads. Basically the oil pressure 'pumps up' the wee piston in the lifter to take up the clearance, which is why you can sometimes get a rattly startup. Certainly the lifters from a 'mercan V8 are fairly weighty objects, a bit larger diameter then a lipstick but maybe a bit shorter. You certainly wouldn't want them flying up and down at seriously high revs. Obviously a smaller engine will have smaller lifters but still it's an extra piece of reciprocating weight in the valvetrain, and probably extra height in an OHV motor plus more complexity in the valvetrain and oil feeds...so not great for a high revving [relatively] small capacity engine.
My humble Indian has hydraulic lifters, and so no valve adjustments but they're in the block (a la V8) as it's just an OHV motor, plus it's red-lined at about 5,500 rpm by virtue of bloody great pistons flying around so any extra mass/inertia in the valve train really isn't a problem. Think yourself lucky you're not having to adjust clearances on a Ducati desmo motor - you've got clearances for both opening AND closing the valves.
My humble Indian has hydraulic lifters, and so no valve adjustments but they're in the block (a la V8) as it's just an OHV motor, plus it's red-lined at about 5,500 rpm by virtue of bloody great pistons flying around so any extra mass/inertia in the valve train really isn't a problem. Think yourself lucky you're not having to adjust clearances on a Ducati desmo motor - you've got clearances for both opening AND closing the valves.
Prof Prolapse said:
Some bikes don't have shim & bucket arrangements, Harley's, Buells, I read some Moto Guzzis. Lower RPM engines.
I read it's because the very high RPM typical of motorcycle engines makes the engineering of them considerably more difficult. Motorcycle technology also seems to move much slower than cars, so "if it aint broke".
I've also heard there's often packaging issues, but not sure about that one.
ETA: I would think it's a job a dealer would hate so doubt they have an interest. Aside from it being a fiddly job, it should always be done on a stone cold engine, so they should in theory have the bike overnight, which is a total faff for them.
Harleys, including the new DOHC engine, have hydraulic cam followers.I read it's because the very high RPM typical of motorcycle engines makes the engineering of them considerably more difficult. Motorcycle technology also seems to move much slower than cars, so "if it aint broke".
I've also heard there's often packaging issues, but not sure about that one.
ETA: I would think it's a job a dealer would hate so doubt they have an interest. Aside from it being a fiddly job, it should always be done on a stone cold engine, so they should in theory have the bike overnight, which is a total faff for them.
tvrolet said:
As above - rpm of typical bike motors and size. Not having to adjust the valves is due to hydraulic lifters. They're typically little cylinders with a piston inside with a hole at the side that's linked into the high pressure oil feed. They go somewhere between the cam and the valve and move up and down within the valve train - in US style OHV V8s they're in the block at the bottom of the pushrods, in OHC engines they're in the heads. Basically the oil pressure 'pumps up' the wee piston in the lifter to take up the clearance, which is why you can sometimes get a rattly startup. Certainly the lifters from a 'mercan V8 are fairly weighty objects, a bit larger diameter then a lipstick but maybe a bit shorter. You certainly wouldn't want them flying up and down at seriously high revs. Obviously a smaller engine will have smaller lifters but still it's an extra piece of reciprocating weight in the valvetrain, and probably extra height in an OHV motor plus more complexity in the valvetrain and oil feeds...so not great for a high revving [relatively] small capacity engine.
My humble Indian has hydraulic lifters, and so no valve adjustments but they're in the block (a la V8) as it's just an OHV motor, plus it's red-lined at about 5,500 rpm by virtue of bloody great pistons flying around so any extra mass/inertia in the valve train really isn't a problem. Think yourself lucky you're not having to adjust clearances on a Ducati desmo motor - you've got clearances for both opening AND closing the valves.
Did you intend to write "extra height in an OHC motor"?My humble Indian has hydraulic lifters, and so no valve adjustments but they're in the block (a la V8) as it's just an OHV motor, plus it's red-lined at about 5,500 rpm by virtue of bloody great pistons flying around so any extra mass/inertia in the valve train really isn't a problem. Think yourself lucky you're not having to adjust clearances on a Ducati desmo motor - you've got clearances for both opening AND closing the valves.
Just found myself in a situation where I had to brake very hard (I actually ended up going into the back of a van, but thankfully I'd slowed almost to a stop by then). I noticed the brake fluid reservoir had weeped slightly and when I got it home the screws weren't very tight at all. Surely that's not right? I've tightened it up but just wanted to make sure there isn't a risk of over tightening (within reason)?
Brake reservoirs are usually made of some kind of metal with a hardness similar to vintage cheddar, so you do need to be careful about over tightening them as you can strip the threads quite easily.
If it's been leaking, bear in mind that brake fluid is pretty nasty stuff and will damage paintwork and plastics so make sure it's cleaned up properly. Brake fluid is also hygroscopic, if fluid can get out that probably means water can get in. I'd be tempted to give it a brake fluid change, and depending on how loose the lid was, maybe replace the seal.
If it's been leaking, bear in mind that brake fluid is pretty nasty stuff and will damage paintwork and plastics so make sure it's cleaned up properly. Brake fluid is also hygroscopic, if fluid can get out that probably means water can get in. I'd be tempted to give it a brake fluid change, and depending on how loose the lid was, maybe replace the seal.
horsemeatscandal said:
Just found myself in a situation where I had to brake very hard (I actually ended up going into the back of a van, but thankfully I'd slowed almost to a stop by then). I noticed the brake fluid reservoir had weeped slightly and when I got it home the screws weren't very tight at all. Surely that's not right? I've tightened it up but just wanted to make sure there isn't a risk of over tightening (within reason)?
Be careful not to strip the threads, but your braking is not dependent on the lid being screwed down hard. There’s a cylinder that pushes the fluid into the brake lines, it’s not pressurizing the reservoir.The reasons for having it nicely sealed is to stop the fluid spilling and to reduce moisture getting into it.
horsemeatscandal said:
Thanks both. I have a feeling the seal might have went now, having had a bit more of a think/look. Unusual though as it's only 5 month old. I'll keep an eye and get it changed of needs be.
They cost little, and are only a minute’s work to replace. I’ve never had one fail, though.If it’s been unsealed for a while then you should probably bleed your brakes to put some fresh fluid through them.
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