The friendly "dumb" bike questions thread

[bogie]

BigGingerBob said:

When are helmet sales usually on? I want a new helmet, a Shoei GT Air 2 but they are fiercely expensive.
Are there specific times and sites to look out for?

Helmet city always seem to have a sale on https://www.helmetcity.co.uk/

actually just emailed me a code "AUTUMN15" for 15% off any full price item over £100...if you subscribe to their newsletter they send these out from time to time.

I think it varies by shop/site and when the big helmet brands have new models/colours coming out...then of course some like to sell off "old" stock.

www.getgeared.co.uk
www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk

are also some of my favourite places to check out for sales, or just put the helmet model into google and see who has the best price.

Edited by bogie on Friday 1st October 19:04

[Patrick Star]

BigGingerBob said:

When are helmet sales usually on? I want a new helmet, a Shoei GT Air 2 but they are fiercely expensive.
Are there specific times and sites to look out for?

Just seen on fb ,j&s maidstone doing them with £100 discount.

[Krikkit]

Try Chrome burner as well - had an AGV K6 from them a few weeks ago, no import charges as safety equipment! Came in over 80 quid better than the nearest competition.

I did try and get one from J&S, they didn't have the style I wanted and refused to order it.

[horsemeatscandal]

horsemeatscandal said:

Just found myself in a situation where I had to brake very hard (I actually ended up going into the back of a van, but thankfully I'd slowed almost to a stop by then). I noticed the brake fluid reservoir had weeped slightly and when I got it home the screws weren't very tight at all. Surely that's not right? I've tightened it up but just wanted to make sure there isn't a risk of over tightening (within reason)?

Update for the crack: bike is currently in for new fluid and seal. Brakes went very spongey, very quickly.

[Bob_Defly]

One of my bikes has a spongy front brake. I've always shied away from brake stuff, but how easy is it to replace the fluid yourself?

[Krikkit]

Bob_Defly said:

One of my bikes has a spongy front brake. I've always shied away from brake stuff, but how easy is it to replace the fluid yourself?

Easy enough but time consuming - the biggest obstacle (imho) is making sure the bleed nipples will free up easily, but tbh most bikes are fine as they don't get anywhere near as grubby as cars.

Edited by Krikkit on Thursday 11th November 14:12

[airsafari87]

Bob_Defly said:

One of my bikes has a spongy front brake. I've always shied away from brake stuff, but how easy is it to replace the fluid yourself?

As Krikkit says, it's an easy job.

One of these makes it even easier.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07YDRSQG9/ref=cm_sw_r...

[RizzoTheRat]

I have managed to snap a bleed nipple once so be careful and maybe give it a bit of plus gas the day before you do it.

Having messed about with proper bleed kits in the past, I still find the best way is a 2 handed approach; slacken the nipple, squeeze the brake, tighten nipple, release brake, repeat. Easy to do on your own on the front but the back sometimes needs a willing volunteer to sit on the bike and press the pedal when directed.
I tend to whip the calipers off, pump them out a bit further than usual, and give the pistons a good clean and check for corrosion too. Just don't pump them out too far!

ETA: when I say bleed kits I just mean the pipes with a non return valve in them. That vacuum one above looks a lot easier.

[Moulder]

Bob_Defly said:

One of my bikes has a spongy front brake. I've always shied away from brake stuff, but how easy is it to replace the fluid yourself?

Depending why they have become spongy it may help to take the lid off the reservoir (and loosely cover), cable tie the lever back to the bar, and leave overnight.

They will still need doing at some point, but this may postpone the inevitable. Can also help once they have been bled if there is still any air in the lines.

[tvrolet]

RizzoTheRat said:

I have managed to snap a bleed nipple once so be careful and maybe give it a bit of plus gas the day before you do it.

Having messed about with proper bleed kits in the past, I still find the best way is a 2 handed approach; slacken the nipple, squeeze the brake, tighten nipple, release brake, repeat. Easy to do on your own on the front but the back sometimes needs a willing volunteer to sit on the bike and press the pedal when directed.

...and keep a close eye on the fluid level in the reservoir. When you're concentrating on the nipple (ooh er missus) it's all to easy to let it drop and pump air back into the system. Then you have to start again, and hope you still have enough fluid left in the bottle to do it all again.

[Krikkit]

airsafari87 said:

Bob_Defly said:

One of my bikes has a spongy front brake. I've always shied away from brake stuff, but how easy is it to replace the fluid yourself?

As Krikkit says, it's an easy job.

One of these makes it even easier.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07YDRSQG9/ref=cm_sw_r...

I have one of these, makes most things pretty easy really, although they're not perfect.

This reminds me that mine needs doing too, a good winter project as you can walk away and leave it when you get fed up.

[CAPP0]

Krikkit said:

airsafari87 said:

Bob_Defly said:

One of my bikes has a spongy front brake. I've always shied away from brake stuff, but how easy is it to replace the fluid yourself?

As Krikkit says, it's an easy job.

One of these makes it even easier.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07YDRSQG9/ref=cm_sw_r...

I have one of these, makes most things pretty easy really, although they're not perfect.

This reminds me that mine needs doing too, a good winter project as you can walk away and leave it when you get fed up.

Don't drain the fluid and then try to add new, use the old fluid to pump/flush through until it comes out clear. If you have an "empty" brake, it can be a pain to get it bled through, although a vacuum pump as above can help. You can achieve the same with a big (100ml) syringe and a bit of plastic hose to the bleed nipple(s).

The other tip above about clamping the lever back overnight is also a very good one; even if you bleed successfully, I would still do that to give you that final bit of firmness at the lever. In fact I have just clamped the front brake back on my ebike until tomorrow, for exactly the same reason.

[Krikkit]

CAPP0 said:

Don't drain the fluid and then try to add new, use the old fluid to pump/flush through until it comes out clear.

Interesting, how come? Service manual for mine specifically says to syringe out and replace the reservoir contents.

[gareth_r]

Krikkit said:

Interesting, how come? Service manual for mine specifically says to syringe out and replace the reservoir contents.

That's what I was taught. Leave enough to cover the holes so that you don't introduce any air.

[the cueball]

I use a syringe to take *most* of the old fluid out the reservoir, don't let it go completely dry, then top up with fresh fluid and use a vacuum bleeder to flush through.

I don't really see the point of taking the time and effort to flush all the old fluid through, just the minimum required not to introduce air into the system.

I also clamp the levers overnight and usually end up with some pretty good brakes.

[Krikkit]

Ah of course, small distinction but a worthwhile one

[airsafari87]

SV650 / Gladius throttle connection. Are they all just a bit s**t?

Clutch is adjusted correctly.
Throttle play is minimal.
Chain tension is correct.
Brakes aren't sticking on.
Bike is recently serviced.

And the 1st tap of the throttle coming off a corner, turning in to a junction etc, on my current punishment bike is absolutely terrible.

Unless you slip the clutch like an old 2 stroke its impossible to apply the throttle smoothly. It's like, nothing, nothing, nothing BAM! and it pushes the front which is unnerving on these cold, mud and leave covered roads we have up here in the grim north.

I'm confident that my throttle control is fairly decent too so I'm ruling that out.

Anything else to try before the Swan Vestas come out?

[Speed addicted]

airsafari87 said:

SV650 / Gladius throttle connection. Are they all just a bit s**t?

Clutch is adjusted correctly.
Throttle play is minimal.
Chain tension is correct.
Brakes aren't sticking on.
Bike is recently serviced.

And the 1st tap of the throttle coming off a corner, turning in to a junction etc, on my current punishment bike is absolutely terrible.

Unless you slip the clutch like an old 2 stroke its impossible to apply the throttle smoothly. It's like, nothing, nothing, nothing BAM! and it pushes the front which is unnerving on these cold, mud and leave covered roads we have up here in the grim north.

I'm confident that my throttle control is fairly decent too so I'm ruling that out.

Anything else to try before the Swan Vestas come out?

Probably throttle mapping, I remember seeing something about some bikes cutting fuel too much when you close the throttle so that the first opening is jerky.
My SV1000 was hellish for the same thing.
You could get round it with a power commander, or learn to ride round it.

[Krikkit]

If you're sure it's all together as it should be then it sounds like a common semi modern problem - they run incredibly lean on the first sniff if throttle travel and hence jerky.

My monster is the same (2011) and needs a map to cure apparently. Doesn't trouble me too much as I usually ride it in the dry, so it's on the "to-do" list.

[airsafari87]

I figured that's what it might be. My Ducati Scrambler had a similar jerky throttle but that could be ridden around. But it's impossible on this one, even if you ride it like you're making love to a beautiful woman.