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What's the current recommendation on how to treat brake pistons when replacing pads?
Clean with a toothbrush and brake cleaner or water? Pistons pushed back unlubricated after cleaning, or smeared with grease, if so, red rubber grease or silicone grease?
If it matters the brakes are on a Tracer 700 with silver blanking plugs on the callipers, which I vaguely think means non steel pistons?
Clean with a toothbrush and brake cleaner or water? Pistons pushed back unlubricated after cleaning, or smeared with grease, if so, red rubber grease or silicone grease?
If it matters the brakes are on a Tracer 700 with silver blanking plugs on the callipers, which I vaguely think means non steel pistons?
xeny said:
What's the current recommendation on how to treat brake pistons when replacing pads?
Clean with a toothbrush and brake cleaner or water? Pistons pushed back unlubricated after cleaning, or smeared with grease, if so, red rubber grease or silicone grease?
If it matters the brakes are on a Tracer 700 with silver blanking plugs on the callipers, which I vaguely think means non steel pistons?
I push them out a little then toothbrush with warm soapy water. Once dry the lightest smear of either red or silicone which ever comes to hand first.Clean with a toothbrush and brake cleaner or water? Pistons pushed back unlubricated after cleaning, or smeared with grease, if so, red rubber grease or silicone grease?
If it matters the brakes are on a Tracer 700 with silver blanking plugs on the callipers, which I vaguely think means non steel pistons?
xeny said:
What's the current recommendation on how to treat brake pistons when replacing pads?
Clean with a toothbrush and brake cleaner or water? Pistons pushed back unlubricated after cleaning, or smeared with grease, if so, red rubber grease or silicone grease?
If it matters the brakes are on a Tracer 700 with silver blanking plugs on the callipers, which I vaguely think means non steel pistons?
Thorough clean with brakecleaner and tooth brush, let them dry for a bit. Very, very light smear of red grease. Push pistons all the way back in, replace brake fluid with fresh stuff while pistons all the way back in. New pads in, pump lever and leave cable tied to the bar over night. That's what I do anyways! Clean with a toothbrush and brake cleaner or water? Pistons pushed back unlubricated after cleaning, or smeared with grease, if so, red rubber grease or silicone grease?
If it matters the brakes are on a Tracer 700 with silver blanking plugs on the callipers, which I vaguely think means non steel pistons?
KTMsm said:
Clean it up then bounce up and down on the forks whilst holding the brakes - you'll soon find out which it is
It might be both
I’ve had a look at both bikes, I think the triumph may be fork oil so I’ll give it a clear out with the seal mate. I cleaned the forks and wheel, bounced it loads with no evidence of leaks. It might be both
The Kawasaki could be fork oil too, there’s no staining or anything. It’s also not bloody doing it when I’m watching.
Dunno. Ghosts?
Got home yesterday at 1500 bike was fine, 0500 today wouldn't start .
Have checked fuses all seem ok .
I have lights
Heated grips work which are connected to the battery and they power on
Anything else I can check
Bike is a fzs600 2001 cheers
Have checked fuses all seem ok .
I have lights
Heated grips work which are connected to the battery and they power on
Anything else I can check
Bike is a fzs600 2001 cheers
Edited by HybridTheory on Sunday 3rd March 17:42
HybridTheory said:
There is no sound at all nothing at all happens no noise
Kill switch? It’s possible that the battery isn’t enough to turn it over, the draw from the heated grips is quite small so they could still work.
it’s possible for batteries to die suddenly, more so on bikes that are used more as the constant use masks the deterioration.
HybridTheory said:
There is no sound at all nothing at all happens no noise
So just to be utterly clear - headlights are on and bright, you press the starter button and the lights stay the same and not even the sound of the starter solenoid activating?If so, battery sounds unlikely to be the problem.
I'm starting to see why so many people change these Brembo rear master cylinders. Near impossible to bleed - I've spent 5 hours trying. Off the bike, on the bike, at every angle. Oddly enough I had the upgraded master cylinder on, but it does not work with the new rearsets.
I've now also bought a master cylinder rebuild kit.
I've now also bought a master cylinder rebuild kit.
Now this is a dumb question! sorry if its been posted before.....I bet it has.....
I've recently bought new boots as the zips had gone on my old ones....
I'm now struggling to change up gear!
Bike is a new Hayabusa, boots are Sidi Adventure 2.
Do I need to bed them in, so I can get them under the gear shifter?
No problems with previous boots, smaller at the tow end though.
I've recently bought new boots as the zips had gone on my old ones....
I'm now struggling to change up gear!
Bike is a new Hayabusa, boots are Sidi Adventure 2.
Do I need to bed them in, so I can get them under the gear shifter?
No problems with previous boots, smaller at the tow end though.
rugbyleague said:
Now this is a dumb question! sorry if its been posted before.....I bet it has.....
I've recently bought new boots as the zips had gone on my old ones....
I'm now struggling to change up gear!
Bike is a new Hayabusa, boots are Sidi Adventure 2.
Do I need to bed them in, so I can get them under the gear shifter?
No problems with previous boots, smaller at the tow end though.
I would go with big chunky Adventure style boots with a Sport Tourer being the issue... lack of space between the footrest and gear shift.. just a thought... I've recently bought new boots as the zips had gone on my old ones....
I'm now struggling to change up gear!
Bike is a new Hayabusa, boots are Sidi Adventure 2.
Do I need to bed them in, so I can get them under the gear shifter?
No problems with previous boots, smaller at the tow end though.
rugbyleague said:
Now this is a dumb question! sorry if its been posted before.....I bet it has.....
I've recently bought new boots as the zips had gone on my old ones....
I'm now struggling to change up gear!
Bike is a new Hayabusa, boots are Sidi Adventure 2.
Do I need to bed them in, so I can get them under the gear shifter?
No problems with previous boots, smaller at the tow end though.
Just got to get used to the new boots / bed them in. I always have this issue after going from shorty style boots over the summer months to full sized boots when it gets cooler, lots of mis-shifts! I've recently bought new boots as the zips had gone on my old ones....
I'm now struggling to change up gear!
Bike is a new Hayabusa, boots are Sidi Adventure 2.
Do I need to bed them in, so I can get them under the gear shifter?
No problems with previous boots, smaller at the tow end though.
edit:_ typo
Edited by Crudeoink on Tuesday 5th March 16:56
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