The friendly "dumb" bike questions thread
Discussion
Funnily enough I do also get a knock from the chain as I start off occasionally. I re-adjusted it at the weekend as I'd dropped the bike through the week and felt it'd affected it. It still knocks. Think I've set it correctly. Suppose I could pop down a garage after work to just confirm the slack is correct.
crofty1984 said:
Berty3000 said:
Yeah, mine is 45-55mm high to low when on that centre stand. Guess I'll just keep checking then. I'll be chuffed if adjustments are as infrequent as you guys are saying.
Checked every 500 miles, as in grab a ruler, push the middle of the chain up for a second doesn't seem unreasonable, but I'd be amazed if you found it was out of sorts and needing adjustment every time you did it.Cbull said:
Funnily enough I do also get a knock from the chain as I start off occasionally. I re-adjusted it at the weekend as I'd dropped the bike through the week and felt it'd affected it. It still knocks. Think I've set it correctly. Suppose I could pop down a garage after work to just confirm the slack is correct.
Unless you dropped it in a fairly hefty way it won’t affect the chain. Hefty as in ‘bent the frame’ hefty.If you adjusted it did you have some way to make sure it is in line, as well as correct tension?
King Herald said:
Unless you dropped it in a fairly hefty way it won’t affect the chain. Hefty as in ‘bent the frame’ hefty.
If you adjusted it did you have some way to make sure it is in line, as well as correct tension?
Nope. Essentially just got the tension right and measured up the swing arm alignment on each side. Not got one of them devices that attach to the chain. I'm pretty confident it's been correctly though.If you adjusted it did you have some way to make sure it is in line, as well as correct tension?
Front sprocket cover off to check sprocket is on securely and no other evidence of contact/rubbing of any sort.
Check the chain guides are secure, if possible get the rear wheel off the ground and run the bike in gear so you can listen at different speeds etc.
Otherwise impending issue with gearbox/clutch?
Check the chain guides are secure, if possible get the rear wheel off the ground and run the bike in gear so you can listen at different speeds etc.
Otherwise impending issue with gearbox/clutch?
Thanks for the advice chaps.
Not sure how to check the bearings but I did man handle the back wheel a bit to clean the chain and didn't notice any significant wobble, will double check but it does feel/sounds more like grinding is going on somewhere.
When the bike is on the paddock stand the chain does seem to bounce a bit and hit under the swing arm but again I don't believe that's issue. Gearbox/clutch is my gut feeling of which I hope not as thats way above my technical ability.
Not sure how to check the bearings but I did man handle the back wheel a bit to clean the chain and didn't notice any significant wobble, will double check but it does feel/sounds more like grinding is going on somewhere.
When the bike is on the paddock stand the chain does seem to bounce a bit and hit under the swing arm but again I don't believe that's issue. Gearbox/clutch is my gut feeling of which I hope not as thats way above my technical ability.
Last idea from me... Not sure if you've changed the sprockets, but I had a noise from my front sprocket for years and I never worked out what it was, after trying everything obvious, I assumed it was all in my head.
Then Jazoli on here just mentioned in passing how aftermarket sprockets lack the rubber dampener, which increases the noise. Turns out that's all it was!
Then Jazoli on here just mentioned in passing how aftermarket sprockets lack the rubber dampener, which increases the noise. Turns out that's all it was!
Bit of a delay sorry, busy busy busy.
Had the bike on a paddock stand and tried to give it a good wobbling. It seems fine, sprockets front and rear seem fine too. I changed the sprockets and chain about 7000 miles ago Kit.
Toxic. It's a 2001 ZX6R J2. It doesn't appear to consistent, only occasionally, sometimes 1 in 4 weeks and sometimes twice per day.
Thanks for the advice though. Not had a chance to get to the mechanics yet so I'll put it to him once I get around to it. It's still going so can't be that bad
Had the bike on a paddock stand and tried to give it a good wobbling. It seems fine, sprockets front and rear seem fine too. I changed the sprockets and chain about 7000 miles ago Kit.
Toxic. It's a 2001 ZX6R J2. It doesn't appear to consistent, only occasionally, sometimes 1 in 4 weeks and sometimes twice per day.
Thanks for the advice though. Not had a chance to get to the mechanics yet so I'll put it to him once I get around to it. It's still going so can't be that bad
I'd definitely get a fresh MOT on it. Chances are it's a fraction too soon - I'd expect it to start picking up in February once everyone's been paid and spring is imminent.
Another silly question from me, but how often would you expect a carb'ed bike to need servicing/rejetting? There's a bike commuter I see each morning, and the stench of petrol after he comes past is quite incredible, it must be running ridiculously rich. Usually it's just a vague whiff, but over the last couple of weeks it's degenerated to smelling exactly like totally unburnt fuel. I'm not sure where he lives, but he's doing at least 20k/year commuting.
Another silly question from me, but how often would you expect a carb'ed bike to need servicing/rejetting? There's a bike commuter I see each morning, and the stench of petrol after he comes past is quite incredible, it must be running ridiculously rich. Usually it's just a vague whiff, but over the last couple of weeks it's degenerated to smelling exactly like totally unburnt fuel. I'm not sure where he lives, but he's doing at least 20k/year commuting.
It depends on the bike but realistically the right bike, at the right price with a well detailed advert will sell no matter the time of year.
I'm selling a spares/repairs bike now and having my hand bitten off because there are good photos and lot's of detail.
Generally more people MAY look to buy in the spring but it's very subjective in terms of one's experience.
Just get it MOT'd and for sale, it will sell when the time is right.
I'm selling a spares/repairs bike now and having my hand bitten off because there are good photos and lot's of detail.
Generally more people MAY look to buy in the spring but it's very subjective in terms of one's experience.
Just get it MOT'd and for sale, it will sell when the time is right.
Krikkit said:
Another silly question from me, but how often would you expect a carb'ed bike to need servicing/rejetting? There's a bike commuter I see each morning, and the stench of petrol after he comes past is quite incredible, it must be running ridiculously rich. Usually it's just a vague whiff, but over the last couple of weeks it's degenerated to smelling exactly like totally unburnt fuel. I'm not sure where he lives, but he's doing at least 20k/year commuting.
Rejetting - maybe if you change the exhaust system. As long as there's a decent air filter, carbs don't wear very fast.Servicing - every 6-12K miles. What you're describing sounds perhaps more like a partially clogged air filter or choke left on.
Filtering.
As I mentioned in another thread, I passed my mod 2 last Friday and as it was forecast to be dry all day today I thought I'd have a go at commuting on the bike for the first time. My commute is about 25 miles and includes about a third of the M60 at peak times, so plenty of very slow moving / stationary traffic.
I decided against filtering for the time being - I'd rather get a few more miles under my wheels & build up a little more confidence before I give it a go, but my initial thoughts are to limit filtering to stationary traffic / traffic travelling at less than 10MPH, and to keep my speed differential with other vehicles to no more than around 10-15MPH.
Am I thinking in the right way? Any filtering wisdom you can share with me?
As I mentioned in another thread, I passed my mod 2 last Friday and as it was forecast to be dry all day today I thought I'd have a go at commuting on the bike for the first time. My commute is about 25 miles and includes about a third of the M60 at peak times, so plenty of very slow moving / stationary traffic.
I decided against filtering for the time being - I'd rather get a few more miles under my wheels & build up a little more confidence before I give it a go, but my initial thoughts are to limit filtering to stationary traffic / traffic travelling at less than 10MPH, and to keep my speed differential with other vehicles to no more than around 10-15MPH.
Am I thinking in the right way? Any filtering wisdom you can share with me?
Reg Local said:
Filtering.
As I mentioned in another thread, I passed my mod 2 last Friday and as it was forecast to be dry all day today I thought I'd have a go at commuting on the bike for the first time. My commute is about 25 miles and includes about a third of the M60 at peak times, so plenty of very slow moving / stationary traffic.
I decided against filtering for the time being - I'd rather get a few more miles under my wheels & build up a little more confidence before I give it a go, but my initial thoughts are to limit filtering to stationary traffic / traffic travelling at less than 10MPH, and to keep my speed differential with other vehicles to no more than around 10-15MPH.
Am I thinking in the right way? Any filtering wisdom you can share with me?
Yes, thats fine...some good advice here too: https://www.bikerandbike.co.uk/filtering-best-prac...As I mentioned in another thread, I passed my mod 2 last Friday and as it was forecast to be dry all day today I thought I'd have a go at commuting on the bike for the first time. My commute is about 25 miles and includes about a third of the M60 at peak times, so plenty of very slow moving / stationary traffic.
I decided against filtering for the time being - I'd rather get a few more miles under my wheels & build up a little more confidence before I give it a go, but my initial thoughts are to limit filtering to stationary traffic / traffic travelling at less than 10MPH, and to keep my speed differential with other vehicles to no more than around 10-15MPH.
Am I thinking in the right way? Any filtering wisdom you can share with me?
Reg Local said:
Filtering.
As I mentioned in another thread, I passed my mod 2 last Friday and as it was forecast to be dry all day today I thought I'd have a go at commuting on the bike for the first time. My commute is about 25 miles and includes about a third of the M60 at peak times, so plenty of very slow moving / stationary traffic.
I decided against filtering for the time being - I'd rather get a few more miles under my wheels & build up a little more confidence before I give it a go, but my initial thoughts are to limit filtering to stationary traffic / traffic travelling at less than 10MPH, and to keep my speed differential with other vehicles to no more than around 10-15MPH.
Am I thinking in the right way? Any filtering wisdom you can share with me?
My own experience is that you are most at risk from cars changing lanes (often without looking in their mirrors) is at the start and the end of a jam. The bit in the middle always seems more settled. 10mph is a reasonable start point. Personally I get twitchy above 20mph. Either way you need to keep your wits about you when you're doing it.As I mentioned in another thread, I passed my mod 2 last Friday and as it was forecast to be dry all day today I thought I'd have a go at commuting on the bike for the first time. My commute is about 25 miles and includes about a third of the M60 at peak times, so plenty of very slow moving / stationary traffic.
I decided against filtering for the time being - I'd rather get a few more miles under my wheels & build up a little more confidence before I give it a go, but my initial thoughts are to limit filtering to stationary traffic / traffic travelling at less than 10MPH, and to keep my speed differential with other vehicles to no more than around 10-15MPH.
Am I thinking in the right way? Any filtering wisdom you can share with me?
What he said ^^^
On a dual carriageway I only filter if the ambient traffic is moving at less than 30mph. Above that the gain isn't enough vs the risk.
Ideally you want the traffic at a stand-still* so that nobody can switch lanes. That's the biggest risk, so keep an eye out for a car with a tempting gap in the opposing lane, and be ready for them to jump into it.
* Though the worst time for filtering is when the traffic is at a stand-still for too long and people are opening doors and getting out to see what's going on.
On a dual carriageway I only filter if the ambient traffic is moving at less than 30mph. Above that the gain isn't enough vs the risk.
Ideally you want the traffic at a stand-still* so that nobody can switch lanes. That's the biggest risk, so keep an eye out for a car with a tempting gap in the opposing lane, and be ready for them to jump into it.
* Though the worst time for filtering is when the traffic is at a stand-still for too long and people are opening doors and getting out to see what's going on.
anonymous said:
[redacted]
Agreed with the above.You riding will evolve in a manner to which you find your regular riding conditions to state the obvious.
If you are just commuting across town, then its all slow traffic and lights / junctions, you will soon get used to filtering to the front of said junction / lights.
If you are on dual carriageways and motorways then you will filter at faster speeds than just stationary traffic. A trait that can develop and I am guilty of this is that the traffic around you has stopped for whatever reason, so you are filtering +-20MPH to the stationary traffic between lanes 2 & 3, but then the traffic starts moving, you are still filtering at +- 20mph, but the traffic is now doing 30mph, you are doing 50mph, then they are doing 70mph and you are doing 90mph and still filtering.
Your speed in relation to the traffic around has not changed, but now you are breaking the speed limit, it is easier to do than you think especially if you commute a lot on congested motorways.
As you state you have just past your test, just ride in a manner in which you are comfortable, if you start thinkng this is a bit risky, stop whatever it is you are doing i.e. filtering or whatever.
Confidence / speed will evolve over time, the best thing you can do now is just get miles under your belt in all conditions, don't be afraid of the rain.
Edited by Dakkon on Tuesday 30th January 15:38
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