The friendly "dumb" bike questions thread

[jrich123]

I had a similar experience with my old MT 125... I'd adjust it and within a few hundreds miles it was saggier than a "readers wives" tits again.

I put it down to being a 125 and the chain being made of knicker elastic, but then again someone may have fitted a cheap chain... either way it was on its way out and got shot of the bike when I passed my test.

I'd suggest replacing before (as mentioned) the chain slips off in a very inopportune moment.

[MotorsportTom]

A500leroy said:

Is a normal for a chain to become 'baggy' quickly?
I know how to adjust its just a bit alarming its gone loose after a few hundred miles.

If it's a new chain, yes very common. They usually need 1 or 2 adjustments in my experience during the first few hundred miles after which they tend to settle a little to a less frequent adjustment required.

Then again my chain on my CG 125 was cheap (read ste) and needs regular adjustment I assume, just to being cheap but it does the job and it's gold so bling bling!

[Biker 1]

Chain lube or chain wax?? I've used WD40 lube in the past & was impressed by its anti-fling & longevity. I'm now trying WD40 chain wax. It appears to have the longevity, but without the stickiness. So far so good - any others tried it?

[phil4]

Biker 1 said:

Chain lube or chain wax?? I've used WD40 lube in the past & was impressed by its anti-fling & longevity. I'm now trying WD40 chain wax. It appears to have the longevity, but without the stickiness. So far so good - any others tried it?

I've previously used the WD40 wax, and am now on the lube. I prefer the wax as it's far more visible, so easier to see where you've done/missed when applying, and easier to see how dirty it is when considering cleaning.

[cbmotorsport]

Biker 1 said:

Chain lube or chain wax?? I've used WD40 lube in the past & was impressed by its anti-fling & longevity. I'm now trying WD40 chain wax. It appears to have the longevity, but without the stickiness. So far so good - any others tried it?

Always used Wurth Dry Lube. No fling, no mess, just does the job.

[Prof Prolapse]

Biker 1 said:

Chain lube or chain wax?? I've used WD40 lube in the past & was impressed by its anti-fling & longevity. I'm now trying WD40 chain wax. It appears to have the longevity, but without the stickiness. So far so good - any others tried it?

According to the makers of WD40 wax/lube, wax is better suited to wet climates.

I've switched to wax on the Uganda Twin after trying some WD40 branded wax donated to me by BN on here. Anecdotally it seems to last longer, not really had issues with "fling" either.

I have used dry lube for years without issue though, so don't think there's a wrong answer here, but being able to see the stuff does make it easier to apply and keep an eye on.

[pessimal]

how squared off, is squared off?

i understand a tyre being squared off, but at what point is it too squared off and needing to be replaced?

is it personal preference, experience, or just "that looks shagged better replace it"

[cbmotorsport]

pessimal said:

how squared off, is squared off?

i understand a tyre being squared off, but at what point is it too squared off and needing to be replaced?

is it personal preference, experience, or just "that looks shagged better replace it"

You can normally feel it starting to have a noticeable effect on the handling. It feels like the bike is falling more into corners.

I change them when they start to look square, or when the indicators are close. You realise just how dramatically your handling's been affected when you put a new set on, and it feels like a new bike.

[Mr2Mike]

cbmotorsport said:

You can normally feel it starting to have a noticeable effect on the handling. It feels like the bike is falling more into corners.

I change them when they start to look square, or when the indicators are close. You realise just how dramatically your handling's been affected when you put a new set on, and it feels like a new bike.

My fireblade gets very twitchy as the rear starts to square off; even going over white lines will make it shake a bit.

[Google [bot]]

More an observation than a question, but comments appreciated. Today I was on a not very quick slightly banked entry to a mini-roundabout I was going straight over, knocked it down to second and got a minor lock-up squirm. Was all ok but a useful reminder that on a bike I'm treading a fairly thin line. So I learnt to try to avoid that, and/or to come more gently off the clutch. A friendly tap on the shoulder.

[TwoStrokeNut]

Google [bot] said:

More an observation than a question, but comments appreciated. Today I was on a not very quick slightly banked entry to a mini-roundabout I was going straight over, knocked it down to second and got a minor lock-up squirm. Was all ok but a useful reminder that on a bike I'm treading a fairly thin line. So I learnt to try to avoid that, and/or to come more gently off the clutch. A friendly tap on the shoulder.

Obviously don't do that. Try and rev match when changing down. It takes some practice, but is well worth it.

Bike's have a lot of engine braking, especially in the lower gears and at higher revs. Change down on your approach, not once lent over.

Think also about balancing the rear brake with the engine braking too.

[Prof Prolapse]

swerni said:

Because of you, I got some wax yesterday.
The Diavel now looks like it's been to a bukake party.

Hahah, sorry. I’ve honestly never had issues with fling!

I use it sparingly and before I put the bike away after a wash.

[Prof Prolapse]

Ah, user error then! Don't blame me

Yeah it is a ball ache on the CRF1000L if you don't have a centre stand (I don't either, that would have cost extra). I tried all the short cuts but now using a paddock stand. Accompanied bobbins would be best if possible though, as it is a bit fiddly to seat safely on the standard "L-shaped" stand mounts due to the overall size and all the gubbins on the swing arm.

[Biker 1]

Warming up one's engine: should one fire up engine, allow to tick over for a minute or so, then proceed for the first 2 or 3 miles at half throttle/half revs until things have warmed up, or should one give it the beans as soon as the oil has had a chance to go through the oil pump?

Revving one's engine in neutral: Will this cause damage?

[anonymous-user]

Biker 1 said:

Warming up one's engine: should one fire up engine, allow to tick over for a minute or so, then proceed for the first 2 or 3 miles at half throttle/half revs until things have warmed up, or should one give it the beans as soon as the oil has had a chance to go through the oil pump?

Revving one's engine in neutral: Will this cause damage?

My routine:

My bike is a bit lumpy on the cold start cycle, so I tend to start it and let it run while I finish putting in earplugs, helmet and gloves. By the time I climb on, the revs have settled down into a nice idle, but it is by no means warmed up.

I take it steady for the first few miles, no redlining, just working up through the gears nicely. I can tell when I'm up to temperature as I can get it into neutral. Won't go in otherwise (bloody Ducatis).

Once it's warm, give it death, where appropriate. I wouldn't be a fan of sitting and letting it idle, it might warm the engine up, but the gearbox, tyres, brake pads etc will still be cold. Better just getting on it and riding it gently.

[cbmotorsport]

Biker 1 said:

Warming up one's engine: should one fire up engine, allow to tick over for a minute or so, then proceed for the first 2 or 3 miles at half throttle/half revs until things have warmed up, or should one give it the beans as soon as the oil has had a chance to go through the oil pump?

Revving one's engine in neutral: Will this cause damage?

Start it up, ride it. Don't give it beans until it's up to temperature. This is as fussy as you need to be.

[Fastchas]

Getting back into biking from a 15 year hiatus...what's the recommended set up with phone holders/chargers and bluetooth-to-ear phones. If I wanted to listen to music, sat nav or chat to pillion, what's the modern options?

Edited by Fastchas on Friday 7th September 10:39

[gareth_r]

MrGman said:

A highway code question, one i've never been 100% on.

Can you overtake a car/bike on solid white lines IF you don't cross them?

Few roads/occasions I'd consider this but I've been riding before when there has been plenty of room to do so.

Didn't see a response to this question.

Yes, you may overtake if you don't cross the solid line. The offence is crossing the line, not overtaking.


Please note that the space between double white lines is not the "motorcycle lane".

[Gavia]

gareth_r said:

MrGman said:

A highway code question, one i've never been 100% on.

Can you overtake a car/bike on solid white lines IF you don't cross them?

Few roads/occasions I'd consider this but I've been riding before when there has been plenty of room to do so.

Didn't see a response to this question.

Yes, you may overtake if you don't cross the solid line. The offence is crossing the line, not overtaking.


Please note that the space between double white lines is not the "motorcycle lane".

And crossing the line is considered to be complete for any part of the bike being over the line, so even if it’s just a small bit of your wingmirror, that is considered crossing the line.

[Lukas239]

Best security devices/options and how they effect your insurance. Just bought my first bike and won't it to remain mine, not some little sts.