Why is my Triumph getting so bloody hot?

Why is my Triumph getting so bloody hot?

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Discussion

anonymous-user

Original Poster:

55 months

Saturday 8th July 2017
quotequote all
Oh FFS......
Now just ridden it to work in the cool overcast morning air of 6am and it's running away to 8/10 on the temp gauge, the coolant brimming the head tank and the fan running constantly.
It's fked. Whatever it is, it's just fked and I'm beginning to think it'll never be properly diganosed.
Local indy place says there's nothing wrong with it, no coolant loss, no exhaust gases in the fluid, thermostat opens,fan runs and so on.
But it's just generating more and more heat every time I ride it.

kev b

2,715 posts

167 months

Saturday 8th July 2017
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I suggest doing a sniffer test to see if the head gasket is faulty, any decent car garage will be able to do this for a reasonable price.

Klippie

3,167 posts

146 months

Saturday 8th July 2017
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Take the plugs out to see if they are all the same colour, your looking to see if one is clean also the inside the cylinder, I had this on a car once the head gasket was on its way out water was weeping in turning to steam and cleaning everything in that bore.

Gunk

3,302 posts

160 months

Saturday 8th July 2017
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It could be blocked waterways in the engine itself so the coolant isn't circulating efficiently.

Speed addicted

5,576 posts

228 months

Saturday 8th July 2017
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How much is a new or lightly used radiator?
Can you open the pump to make sure the impellor isn't worn?

If it's not cooling either the coolant isn't circulating properly or the radiator isn't exchanging enough heat.
If the garage have done a sniff test and the head gasket looks good it shouldn't be anything else now you have a working rad cap.

Suppose it could be blocked coolant passages in the engine, but I think the rad is more likely as it's not just a straight run.

anonymous-user

Original Poster:

55 months

Saturday 8th July 2017
quotequote all
Coolant has been tested for exhaust gas - negative.
A new rad is £500 by the time the VATs added.
Not a common bike so no pattern parts.
Recon on my rad is half that but takes two weeks during which time I'd probably spend the difference on public transport getting to work.
Have got some citric acid at home now which is the stuff to give the rad a really good clean although I've yet to try it as the problem just seems to be running away now.
It's already had a system flush which came out quite clean.
Water pump is another option, costs about the same as the rad to resolve and is equally liable. It's almost a coin-flip decision although most owners (online) report rad issies.

Edited by anonymous-user on Saturday 8th July 10:30

Speed addicted

5,576 posts

228 months

Saturday 8th July 2017
quotequote all
Wouldn't the rad be the same for all the 1050s? So the Speed triple and sprint are likely to have the same part.

Have a look on ebay, used ones look to be going for about the £200 mark, and you can pretty much guarantee that they've done about a quarter of the miles your one has.
Easy enough to fit yourself.

anonymous-user

Original Poster:

55 months

Saturday 8th July 2017
quotequote all
^that did cross my mind.

ETA: just had a look. Some subtle but crucial differences :-(

Edited by anonymous-user on Saturday 8th July 11:03

kev b

2,715 posts

167 months

Saturday 8th July 2017
quotequote all
Apologies, I thought the shop had just looked for bubbles in the coolant instead of a sniff test.

Good news as this means the gasket is sound, are you certain the coolant is actually being pumped round and not just thermocycling?

Is the waterpump impeller turning, could it be spinning on the shaft?

When you start up from cold can you feel hot or cold spots on the radiator as it warms up and the stat opens.

Could you access a thermometer gun to check for hot spots?

Speed addicted

5,576 posts

228 months

Saturday 8th July 2017
quotequote all
Good point about feeling the rad heat up, on my BMW K100 I could feel just a small area of heat as the bike warmed up. Replaced the stat and there was a big diffence (much bigger area).
You could check if the impeller was goosed by taking off a high up hose without drainng the system then turning the bike over. Should get a pretty good flow as soon as you press the button. Low or no flow points to water pump. Not exactly a high tech test, but you would know one way or the other.

anonymous-user

Original Poster:

55 months

Saturday 8th July 2017
quotequote all
I'm confident in the water pump's ability at the moment as I am getting a healthy spirit of fluid from both the bleed screw and main cap of the rad.
Once I've acid-attacked the rad, the water pump is coming off next.

anonymous-user

Original Poster:

55 months

Saturday 15th July 2017
quotequote all
And so it goes on.....
Acid-flushed the radiator, with the solution draining out a distinct green colour so it's dissolved something.
Temperature appears down across the board now although there are still bubble rising in to the header tank.
Then riding home last night, a new aspect...
Temperature remained rock solid at five bars but the coolant expanded to overflowing and even more intriguing still, hasn't siphoned back down now the bike's cool.
Utterly random.

Speed addicted

5,576 posts

228 months

Saturday 15th July 2017
quotequote all
Crossflow Kid said:
Temperature remained rock solid at five bars but the coolant expanded to overflowing and even more intriguing still, hasn't siphoned back down now the bike's cool.
Utterly random.
On my 1050 Tiger the coolant would overflow if it was much above the min line on the bottle, once settled there it would stay at the same point.
As for not siphoning back in... Umm...

Blocked return hose/cap?
Air lock would explain the bubbles and also the overflow once hot but not the lack of siphon.

Head gasket failure would explain all the symptoms but you've had it sniff tested.

anonymous-user

Original Poster:

55 months

Saturday 15th July 2017
quotequote all
I'm going for blocked rad.
When it was off the bike for flushing, there were a few spots on it that felt decidedly "solid" when tapped with a finger.

kurt535

3,559 posts

118 months

Saturday 15th July 2017
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no idea if engine is carb but if it is, check the jets aren't blocked or fit bigger ones.

Gunk

3,302 posts

160 months

Sunday 16th July 2017
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kurt535 said:
no idea if engine is carb but if it is, check the jets aren't blocked or fit bigger ones.
Why would blocked jets make a bike boil over?

kev b

2,715 posts

167 months

Sunday 16th July 2017
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Weak mixture makes engines run hotter.

anonymous-user

Original Poster:

55 months

Sunday 16th July 2017
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It's not on carbs.

poo at Paul's

14,153 posts

176 months

Sunday 16th July 2017
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Stick a new rad on. And get a triumph one not an aftermarket.

My 1050 even in weather so hot i was in shorts, doesn't get within 4 bars of the top, normally 6 bars to go.

Having said all that, ii think you have an head problem. But until you replace rad, you wont know what to do next.


Edited by poo at Paul's on Sunday 16th July 23:16


Edited by poo at Paul's on Sunday 16th July 23:16

anonymous-user

Original Poster:

55 months

Sunday 16th July 2017
quotequote all
New rad is the next step in the plan.
It's just that nigh on £500 is a big leap up from the few-quid-fixes I've tried so far.