Who has purchased a new Africa Twin?
Discussion
The only annoying thing for me was that back in April when I got my SP, I decided I'd never ride anything other than sunshine and butterflies ever again. With that in mind, I sold all my waterproof textile kit, my waterproof boots and waterproof, warm gloves.
So now I'm buying all that stuff again. I'm an idiot.
So now I'm buying all that stuff again. I'm an idiot.
Rawwr said:
The only annoying thing for me was that back in April when I got my SP, I decided I'd never ride anything other than sunshine and butterflies ever again. With that in mind, I sold all my waterproof textile kit, my waterproof boots and waterproof, warm gloves.
So now I'm buying all that stuff again. I'm an idiot.
I am looking for new kit at the moment anyway. Especially after my wet ride in this morning.So now I'm buying all that stuff again. I'm an idiot.
Torn between Klim, Dainese and Rukka.
I want proper GoreTex laminated kit. I am fed up with one piece waterproofs that get my crotch soaking anyway.
supercommuter said:
Rawwr said:
I had the Dainese Stradon jacket before, which I swear was the best I've ever owned. Properly warm and GoreTex Pro never let a drop of water in.
Leaning towards Dainese. Rukka is so expensive, I cannot see in the reviews or technology it uses why it is any better.
How do you run in a new bike engine?
There seems to be three options;
1) Just don't rev the tits off it for a while
2) High loads on and off the throttle to promote ring seal, crucial this is done immediately.
3) It doesn't matter nowadays
I'm liking the idea of (2) but not sure... Can anyone advise?
There seems to be three options;
1) Just don't rev the tits off it for a while
2) High loads on and off the throttle to promote ring seal, crucial this is done immediately.
3) It doesn't matter nowadays
I'm liking the idea of (2) but not sure... Can anyone advise?
Prof Prolapse said:
How do you run in a new bike engine?
There seems to be three options;
1) Just don't rev the tits off it for a while
2) High loads on and off the throttle to promote ring seal, crucial this is done immediately.
3) It doesn't matter nowadays
I'm liking the idea of (2) but not sure... Can anyone advise?
I ran my 2014 cb500x at 85mph for 3 days up and down the motorway. Still running lovely at 74k. I'm not really sure how much it matters nowadays!There seems to be three options;
1) Just don't rev the tits off it for a while
2) High loads on and off the throttle to promote ring seal, crucial this is done immediately.
3) It doesn't matter nowadays
I'm liking the idea of (2) but not sure... Can anyone advise?
Have you seen the JB delivery on FB, rows of AT's!
I cannot get through to insurance company, i have a quote for a manual AT, but like you my new reg is not active yet.
They don't offer 7 day insurance, that email was a general email that was sent out and only applies to cars ( I did ask this )
quote=Alex@POD]They're going to be busy Thursday! I'm booked there for 13:00 I think...
I've not been able to insure it yet though, I guess they have filed the registration anywhere yet... Might have to arrange the 7 days free insurance with them!
[/quote]
I cannot get through to insurance company, i have a quote for a manual AT, but like you my new reg is not active yet.
They don't offer 7 day insurance, that email was a general email that was sent out and only applies to cars ( I did ask this )
quote=Alex@POD]They're going to be busy Thursday! I'm booked there for 13:00 I think...
I've not been able to insure it yet though, I guess they have filed the registration anywhere yet... Might have to arrange the 7 days free insurance with them!
[/quote]
rat840771 said:
Have you seen the JB delivery on FB, rows of AT's!
I cannot get through to insurance company, i have a quote for a manual AT, but like you my new reg is not active yet.
They don't offer 7 day insurance, that email was a general email that was sent out and only applies to cars ( I did ask this )
Oh, that'd good to know! I cannot get through to insurance company, i have a quote for a manual AT, but like you my new reg is not active yet.
They don't offer 7 day insurance, that email was a general email that was sent out and only applies to cars ( I did ask this )
The metal of the engine block, pistons etc have not had any heat cycling on a new engine. IMHO the important thing to do is bring the engine up to temperature and limit the revs initially to bring it thermally up to a consistent temperature and let it go through quite a few heat cycles. Giving it some heavier load should be fine for short bursts and limited revs or higher revs low load here and there but overall I would be more inclined to raise the revs gradually. I would avoid glazing the bores by running it at the same revs for long periods such as motorway use if possible.
I used to do 500kms at no more than 4k rpm with the odd burst here and there say to 5-5.5k then increase it by 1k rpm every 100kms or 250rpm every 25kms. Quite a nice way to get to know your bike too giving you something to look forward to. I am currently doing this with a NOS ZXR750R although that is 500 miles at 4k rpms and 500 miles at 6k rpms! That however is running in the thinner competition running in oil which cannot take the higher temps associated with higher revs.
It's all well and good talking about ring sealing on race engines which more often than not would likely have seasoned engine blocks anyway so are already at least thermally stable when it comes to expansion and contraction. All the parts are bedding in and expanding at different rates so what may be best for rings totally discounts the broader picture which is getting all the other components bedded in together and brought up to hotter temperatures through many heat cycles gradually increase the heat.
Look what happens to brake pads and discs if you give them thermal shock and blast them from the word go, you'll likely have warped discs and glazed pads!! Rather than cycle them and get some heat into them, let them cool and do the same again gradually raising the temp.
All manufacturers literature generally specifies a break in period (good for the rest of the bike too - Tyres/brakes) and almost any engineer you speak to would back this up. What the racing fraternity might do is under very different conditions with engine rebuilds/maintenance carried out far more regularly and using uprated components.
I used to do 500kms at no more than 4k rpm with the odd burst here and there say to 5-5.5k then increase it by 1k rpm every 100kms or 250rpm every 25kms. Quite a nice way to get to know your bike too giving you something to look forward to. I am currently doing this with a NOS ZXR750R although that is 500 miles at 4k rpms and 500 miles at 6k rpms! That however is running in the thinner competition running in oil which cannot take the higher temps associated with higher revs.
It's all well and good talking about ring sealing on race engines which more often than not would likely have seasoned engine blocks anyway so are already at least thermally stable when it comes to expansion and contraction. All the parts are bedding in and expanding at different rates so what may be best for rings totally discounts the broader picture which is getting all the other components bedded in together and brought up to hotter temperatures through many heat cycles gradually increase the heat.
Look what happens to brake pads and discs if you give them thermal shock and blast them from the word go, you'll likely have warped discs and glazed pads!! Rather than cycle them and get some heat into them, let them cool and do the same again gradually raising the temp.
All manufacturers literature generally specifies a break in period (good for the rest of the bike too - Tyres/brakes) and almost any engineer you speak to would back this up. What the racing fraternity might do is under very different conditions with engine rebuilds/maintenance carried out far more regularly and using uprated components.
Spoke to Sam via email yesterday and they still had some Red ones left.
I absolutely don't need another bike, I've barely been out on the Blade but that's practically a classic now (954), but I've always liked the AT and test rode one when they first came out before buying a GS. £70/month is just nuts though!
Trying to get tacit permission by offering regular Gin bribes currently
Phil
I absolutely don't need another bike, I've barely been out on the Blade but that's practically a classic now (954), but I've always liked the AT and test rode one when they first came out before buying a GS. £70/month is just nuts though!
Trying to get tacit permission by offering regular Gin bribes currently
Phil
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