New Ride / Project - 2016 R1
Discussion
WaferThinHam said:
cmaguire said:
I presumed he meant they were told they had to go solus and dump Suzuki to keep the Yamaha franchise.
Aaa, I see. The re-branding they were talking about (branded shirts and floor tiles as one person put it) would have cost £150k (on a leased building) and I don't think they owed Yamaha anything beyond their stock do it was easy just to rationalise another dealer.
I might pop in again in a few weeks when things are less raw and ask about some Yamaha sgns and branding for my garage.
moto_traxport said:
Nope. There are plenty of dealers with more than one franchise. I think Yamaha can see where new bike sales are heading (less overall numbers and more happening online so less geographical importance).
The re-branding they were talking about (branded shirts and floor tiles as one person put it) would have cost £150k (on a leased building) and I don't think they owed Yamaha anything beyond their stock do it was easy just to rationalise another dealer.
I might pop in again in a few weeks when things are less raw and ask about some Yamaha sgns and branding for my garage.
This is where it doesn't make sense to me. Everyone wants to sell units (regardless of what it is) so as long as the place is respectable, who cares about the floor tiles/shirts. I see this in a dealer near me that's split into a few different "zones" black tiles in the Kawasaki zone (I think), grey in Ducati, then generally used bikes (and Yamaha funnily enough) in the middle. I knew that BMW and Triumph were hot on that sort of stuff, but didn't know Yamaha were now too. The re-branding they were talking about (branded shirts and floor tiles as one person put it) would have cost £150k (on a leased building) and I don't think they owed Yamaha anything beyond their stock do it was easy just to rationalise another dealer.
I might pop in again in a few weeks when things are less raw and ask about some Yamaha sgns and branding for my garage.
WaferThinHam said:
This is where it doesn't make sense to me. Everyone wants to sell units (regardless of what it is) so as long as the place is respectable, who cares about the floor tiles/shirts. I see this in a dealer near me that's split into a few different "zones" black tiles in the Kawasaki zone (I think), grey in Ducati, then generally used bikes (and Yamaha funnily enough) in the middle. I knew that BMW and Triumph were hot on that sort of stuff, but didn't know Yamaha were now too.
Years ago the local bike shop declined when Honda tried to dictate terms, and more recently Ducati did the same. Personally I'd rather chat to the owner or the guy working on my bike, rather than being directed to a waiting room. 
That's a shame. Really doesn't make any sense to me at all. Personally I love being able to go to a dealer and look at all the different bikes all part of it. Surely if you back your own product you'd just want it in as many showrooms as possible? Maybe I'm being simplistic.
There was a 4 hour break in the rain at the weekend. so thought I'd take a photo of the bike (any excuse). Stock exhaust back on for a bit until I learn the bike properly. Desperate for sunshine now
There was a 4 hour break in the rain at the weekend. so thought I'd take a photo of the bike (any excuse). Stock exhaust back on for a bit until I learn the bike properly. Desperate for sunshine now
R1 Dave said:
mrleeson660 said:
R1 Dave said:
It’s definately worth the money. Another thing I found worthwhile was an RCS19 master cylinder and EBC GPFAX pads.
Ah yes I saw a bike for sale with that setup - will look into it. On first impressions I've found the brakes to be really powerful but lacking in any real feel compared to my GSXR Brembos. So I'm definitely looking in ways to get that feel back if possible.Ref the ActiveTune if you have spare 5 really interested to hear the benefits you found over stock. Main thing I'm looking to sort out is the smoothness of the throttle. I found it is possible to be smooth on the stock throttle but it takes serious concentration haha. I think I may have a bit of slack in the cable as well as it's not very crisp on the down-changes, My 750 was so so sharp post mods, blipping down through the box was a dream. I appreciate this might just be the crossplane motor vs inline 4.
Any info much appreciated.
Cheers Dave
Re the brakes, it’s the ABS setup that robs feel and bite. The only real way to get that back is to ditch the ABS. I’m not keen on that idea so I fitted the GPFAX pads which are meant to be for race use, I’m sure they’d be grabby as hell on any other bike but on the R1 they work well as they’re held back a bit by the ABS setup (IMHO).
Re the FTEcu flash, I wanted exactly the same as you; to sort the god-awful Throttle!!! It was bloody terrible, gave me severe wrist ache from having to be so careful with it. Without the cat it also had a flat Spot in the low/mid range. Flashing it sorted those issues, the throttle is massively better. You need to de-cat it to get the most from it as that means you can turn off all the emissions crap that causes the issue - basically in standard trim the fuel gets shut off dead the moment you close the Throttle, this is for emissions and to stop unburnt fuel entering the cat and damaging it. With a decat you don’t have this issue. Adding the active tune just makes it even smoother again, just oodles of smooth power all the way through the Rev range, I leave mine on the ‘constant tune’ mode which I know many advise against but for me I find it works beautifully.
moanthebairns said:
R1 Dave said:
mrleeson660 said:
R1 Dave said:
It’s definately worth the money. Another thing I found worthwhile was an RCS19 master cylinder and EBC GPFAX pads.
Ah yes I saw a bike for sale with that setup - will look into it. On first impressions I've found the brakes to be really powerful but lacking in any real feel compared to my GSXR Brembos. So I'm definitely looking in ways to get that feel back if possible.Ref the ActiveTune if you have spare 5 really interested to hear the benefits you found over stock. Main thing I'm looking to sort out is the smoothness of the throttle. I found it is possible to be smooth on the stock throttle but it takes serious concentration haha. I think I may have a bit of slack in the cable as well as it's not very crisp on the down-changes, My 750 was so so sharp post mods, blipping down through the box was a dream. I appreciate this might just be the crossplane motor vs inline 4.
Any info much appreciated.
Cheers Dave
Re the brakes, it’s the ABS setup that robs feel and bite. The only real way to get that back is to ditch the ABS. I’m not keen on that idea so I fitted the GPFAX pads which are meant to be for race use, I’m sure they’d be grabby as hell on any other bike but on the R1 they work well as they’re held back a bit by the ABS setup (IMHO).
Re the FTEcu flash, I wanted exactly the same as you; to sort the god-awful Throttle!!! It was bloody terrible, gave me severe wrist ache from having to be so careful with it. Without the cat it also had a flat Spot in the low/mid range. Flashing it sorted those issues, the throttle is massively better. You need to de-cat it to get the most from it as that means you can turn off all the emissions crap that causes the issue - basically in standard trim the fuel gets shut off dead the moment you close the Throttle, this is for emissions and to stop unburnt fuel entering the cat and damaging it. With a decat you don’t have this issue. Adding the active tune just makes it even smoother again, just oodles of smooth power all the way through the Rev range, I leave mine on the ‘constant tune’ mode which I know many advise against but for me I find it works beautifully.
R1 Dave said:
On the contrary, these pads are the best I’ve experienced on the R1- the stock pads were crap, I tried Brembo SC which I know are good pads (ran them on my RSV4) and they were ok but still not a lot of bite, so I fitted the GPFAX. They’re way better than the others. I don’t struggle to get heat into them.
I've just ordered some GPFAX for mine.R1 Dave said:
On the contrary, these pads are the best I’ve experienced on the R1- the stock pads were crap, I tried Brembo SC which I know are good pads (ran them on my RSV4) and they were ok but still not a lot of bite, so I fitted the GPFAX. They’re way better than the others. I don’t struggle to get heat into them.
Don't know my EBC pads too well but I think GPFAX are sintered metal so assume they'll work very well from cold. It tends to be the carbon track ones that need heat. If they don't recommend the GPFAX for the roads it could be for other reasons - excessive wear of pad and / or disc perhaps?I assumed the reason they didn’t recommend them for Road was due to the necessity for heat and also them being soft so wearing quickly. Neither has been an issue for me - I tend to ride quickly but relatively smoothly so don’t generally brake hard all that often and they still work well.
I bought mine from HPS who at the time were doing buy one get one free so I’ve got a spare set in the garage too.
I bought mine from HPS who at the time were doing buy one get one free so I’ve got a spare set in the garage too.
moanthebairns said:
If I go out on track without sighting laps there is noticeable s
t braking for first few laps.
I really am struggling to understand how you need these on the road over double hh ebcs.
I haven’t tried their regular HH pads. I found the OE setup really quite poor so I changed the MC for an RCS19 and it still wasn’t as good as I wanted so I swapped pads too. It works for me. I rarely need to brake hard but if I do I want them to work well. t braking for first few laps.I really am struggling to understand how you need these on the road over double hh ebcs.
R1 Dave said:
moanthebairns said:
If I go out on track without sighting laps there is noticeable st braking for first few laps.
I really am struggling to understand how you need these on the road over double hh ebcs.
I haven’t tried their regular HH pads. I found the OE setup really quite poor so I changed the MC for an RCS19 and it still wasn’t as good as I wanted so I swapped pads too. It works for me. I rarely need to brake hard but if I do I want them to work well. t braking for first few laps.I really am struggling to understand how you need these on the road over double hh ebcs.
moanthebairns said:
R1 Dave said:
moanthebairns said:
If I go out on track without sighting laps there is noticeable st braking for first few laps.
I really am struggling to understand how you need these on the road over double hh ebcs.
. t braking for first few laps.I really am struggling to understand how you need these on the road over double hh ebcs.
I haven’t tried their regular HH pads. I found the OE setup really quite poor so I changed the MC for an RCS19 and it still wasn’t as good as I wanted so I swapped pads too. It works for me. I rarely need to brake hard but if I do I want them to work well.
I genuinely don’t need to brake hard very often, the engine braking on the R1 is good and I’d rather ride quick and smooth than barrel up to stuff and brake hard, but like I say, if something unexpected happens I like to know the brakes work well if I need them.
These race pads require an operating temperature to work correctly. A few sighting laps and they are stupendous.
They still obviously work cold, but the reduced braking is easily noticeable for the first few corners till they warm up.
Now these pads probably would work well on a set of twisty roads for 20 miles or so.
But if your going along the motorway and suddenly need to brake having not touched them for 10 miles they aren't going to stop you as well as road pads that work from cold. These road pads wont work forever at high temperatures because its out with its operating range. But there has to be a compromise and there will always be an overlap of optimal performance depending on the usage required at the time.
They still obviously work cold, but the reduced braking is easily noticeable for the first few corners till they warm up.
Now these pads probably would work well on a set of twisty roads for 20 miles or so.
But if your going along the motorway and suddenly need to brake having not touched them for 10 miles they aren't going to stop you as well as road pads that work from cold. These road pads wont work forever at high temperatures because its out with its operating range. But there has to be a compromise and there will always be an overlap of optimal performance depending on the usage required at the time.
Prof Prolapse said:
R1 Dave said:
All down to personal preference I guess.
No, I don't think that's what MTB and the manufacturer of the pads are saying...My experience is that they work well at all temps, they just wear a bit quicker than the OE pads.
We all make our choices; this is one I’m happy with. I still have the Brembo SC pads in the garage, if the EBC weren’t working well I would simply change them back.
moanthebairns said:
These race pads require an operating temperature to work correctly. A few sighting laps and they are stupendous.
They still obviously work cold, but the reduced braking is easily noticeable for the first few corners till they warm up.
Now these pads probably would work well on a set of twisty roads for 20 miles or so.
But if your going along the motorway and suddenly need to brake having not touched them for 10 miles they aren't going to stop you as well as road pads that work from cold. These road pads wont work forever at high temperatures because its out with its operating range. But there has to be a compromise and there will always be an overlap of optimal performance depending on the usage required at the time.
I appreciate your point and in the past have always avoided this kind of pad for the exact reasons you mention. When compared with OE & SC pads, however, my experience is that they work better when cold than either of those two and significantly better when warm. The only trade off is slightly higher pad wear but I’m comfortable with that. They still obviously work cold, but the reduced braking is easily noticeable for the first few corners till they warm up.
Now these pads probably would work well on a set of twisty roads for 20 miles or so.
But if your going along the motorway and suddenly need to brake having not touched them for 10 miles they aren't going to stop you as well as road pads that work from cold. These road pads wont work forever at high temperatures because its out with its operating range. But there has to be a compromise and there will always be an overlap of optimal performance depending on the usage required at the time.
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