Oil Change - Terminal Clutch Slip Within 30 Mins
Discussion
Jazoli said:
BobSaunders said:
Could OP use a lexmoto clutch in his KTM? It would be cheaper.
Nah I reckon one from a Fiat 500 will be more suitable....SBDJ said:
As for the oil debacle, my ZX10R is at 100k, always run on fully synth and still on it's original clutch. That said I did just change the brand of oil and now I'm having difficulty shifting from second to first - time to write a strongly worded email to Shell 
You have adjusted the chain in the last 100k miles haven't you? have you? you sure? some people can be a bit stupid you know...Edited by Jazoli on Tuesday 30th June 16:39
thatdude said:
Catnapper said:
I know its the clutch mentioned but Do not start on oil & Fiat 500's
Ok, I'll bite - what is it about oil and fiat 500's? Does the wrong oil cause the exhaust to rattle?
Synthetic oil does not cause clutch slip because it isn’t more slippery. It’s lubricity is the same as an equivalent semi or mineral oil.
What synthetic oil (or even just new oil) does do is have greater detergency. Which means that if you have an old clutch that’s only held together by sticky old oil deposits, a new oil (and particularly a synthetic) may clean it up sufficiently that it starts slipping.
I suspect that’s what’s happened here.
However, that assumes that oil in the container was actually the same as the oil on the label. Mislabelled oil is not unknown, especially with smaller blenders.
What synthetic oil (or even just new oil) does do is have greater detergency. Which means that if you have an old clutch that’s only held together by sticky old oil deposits, a new oil (and particularly a synthetic) may clean it up sufficiently that it starts slipping.
I suspect that’s what’s happened here.
However, that assumes that oil in the container was actually the same as the oil on the label. Mislabelled oil is not unknown, especially with smaller blenders.
The key here , is to buy good oil, and leave it in for a decent amount of time. Good oil doesnt become bad oil in 2 hours. But cheap oil is cheap oil while it is still in the bottle. Putting crap in , and then saying ' but i change it often' is like fitting a bald tyre and saying ' i am only doing 50 miles, and i will change it for another bald one' .
There is a direct correlation between people that boast how often they change their oil, and people asking which is the best thing to fix a stripped sump plug.
KTM recommend Motorex.. its not cheap. So dont change it like water.
There is a direct correlation between people that boast how often they change their oil, and people asking which is the best thing to fix a stripped sump plug.
KTM recommend Motorex.. its not cheap. So dont change it like water.
thatdude said:
Catnapper said:
I know its the clutch mentioned but Do not start on oil & Fiat 500's
Ok, I'll bite - what is it about oil and fiat 500's? Does the wrong oil cause the exhaust to rattle?It's not as if bikes run car clutches or anything; it's not like BSA/Triumph would have used the dry clutch off a Mini on the original Rocket 3s/Tridents/Hurricanes mounted in a housing inboard of the primary but outboard of the sprocket so it buggers you up with space to mount an o-ring chain...
Cheeses of Nazareth said:
The key here , is to buy good oil, and leave it in for a decent amount of time. Good oil doesnt become bad oil in 2 hours. But cheap oil is cheap oil while it is still in the bottle. Putting crap in , and then saying ' but i change it often' is like fitting a bald tyre and saying ' i am only doing 50 miles, and i will change it for another bald one' .
There is a direct correlation between people that boast how often they change their oil, and people asking which is the best thing to fix a stripped sump plug.
KTM recommend Motorex.. its not cheap. So dont change it like water.
The manual for my bike says the oil needs changing every 600 miles. I found that if I leave it for that long the clutch would stick on when I came to use it again, often a few weeks. I would imagine the oil must get contaminated quickly and leave deposits on the clutch plates. I now change it every 3-4 rides, so probably about 2-300 miles and its no longer a problem.There is a direct correlation between people that boast how often they change their oil, and people asking which is the best thing to fix a stripped sump plug.
KTM recommend Motorex.. its not cheap. So dont change it like water.
Maybe I should send my old oil to the OP and it might solve his slipping clutch problem.
xstian said:
The manual for my bike says the oil needs changing every 600 miles. I found that if I leave it for that long the clutch would stick on when I came to use it again, often a few weeks. I would imagine the oil must get contaminated quickly and leave deposits on the clutch plates. I now change it every 3-4 rides, so probably about 2-300 miles and its no longer a problem.
Maybe I should send my old oil to the OP and it might solve his slipping clutch problem.
I have had that with 2 strokes, but usually getting the bike properly warm means it frees off. Failing that, spin the rear wheel and nudge it in gear with the clutch in . Maybe I should send my old oil to the OP and it might solve his slipping clutch problem.
Also what folk do , is not actually check the oil they drop out for contaminatants, which is why race teams that dont have oil analysis kit , drop the oil all the time.. its not about the oil, its about what is in it.
When cars have 20000 mile service intervals, there is no need to change oil at the rate people do.
be sure to let us know how the court case goes
Can't resist banging a nail in the coffin of the car oil in a bike is fine idiots.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aPN6InDHE4k
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aPN6InDHE4k
trickywoo said:
Can't resist banging a nail in the coffin of the car oil in a bike is fine idiots.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aPN6InDHE4k
Except that doesn't bang any nails in. Oils that don't have the viscosity modifiers that cause wet clutches to slip can be used.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aPN6InDHE4k
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