Z650 Restomod Build Thread
Discussion
Bars are Renthals, with Moto Gadget switchgear, whose wiring passes through the bars. They work well with the same companies M-Unit, which reduces the simplifies the wiring, and has lots of features.. an alarm etc.
Where possible I'd been buying UK made parts, so for the exhaust system, I went for a stainless Delkevic 4-1 with a black ceramic coating. Seems really well made, and the downpipes and collector went on no problem. Though as I had half expected, the silencer wouldnt fit, as the swing arm was in the way. The system was made for a GPz1100B1, same as the engine, which obviously has a narrower back end, compared to the ZRX1200 / 6 inch wheel in the back of mine.
Where possible I'd been buying UK made parts, so for the exhaust system, I went for a stainless Delkevic 4-1 with a black ceramic coating. Seems really well made, and the downpipes and collector went on no problem. Though as I had half expected, the silencer wouldnt fit, as the swing arm was in the way. The system was made for a GPz1100B1, same as the engine, which obviously has a narrower back end, compared to the ZRX1200 / 6 inch wheel in the back of mine.
Katana looks cool, had a couple, surprisingly practical.
Coming up to date now, to fit the silencer, I had to add 60mm to the 4-1 collector, which sadly ruined the ceramic finish. CamCoat are on the far side of town, so hopefully they can replicate the finish. The silencer stick out a bit far, so while the 4-1 collector was cut in half, I shortened it by 30mm. One of the joints of the collector was only tack welded, as I also wanted to chance to change the angle of the silencer. I wont finally weld it all back together until a new pair of foot rest hangers are finished, which raise the pegs 50mm.. this will clear the exhaust, and ensure the kickstand doesnt interfere with the gearchange lever when retracted.. which it does at the moment.
The front guard is from a XJR1300, which for some reason has its mounts just 5mm different from those of the R6 forks, so need to make some brackets so it'll fit. Also undecided if I'll fit the R90S fairing.. looks a bit big on the bike, and could interfere with the brake / clutch master cylinders. The latter I haven't got yet, but will go for a pair from HEL. The bodywork is booked in for paint next month, so have until then to make up my mind.
Coming up to date now, to fit the silencer, I had to add 60mm to the 4-1 collector, which sadly ruined the ceramic finish. CamCoat are on the far side of town, so hopefully they can replicate the finish. The silencer stick out a bit far, so while the 4-1 collector was cut in half, I shortened it by 30mm. One of the joints of the collector was only tack welded, as I also wanted to chance to change the angle of the silencer. I wont finally weld it all back together until a new pair of foot rest hangers are finished, which raise the pegs 50mm.. this will clear the exhaust, and ensure the kickstand doesnt interfere with the gearchange lever when retracted.. which it does at the moment.
The front guard is from a XJR1300, which for some reason has its mounts just 5mm different from those of the R6 forks, so need to make some brackets so it'll fit. Also undecided if I'll fit the R90S fairing.. looks a bit big on the bike, and could interfere with the brake / clutch master cylinders. The latter I haven't got yet, but will go for a pair from HEL. The bodywork is booked in for paint next month, so have until then to make up my mind.
Got the wiring done, everything works, just need a neutral light switch and a couple of seals for the inner sprocket plate, then can put oil in the engine and try to start it. Bike has Dyna S ignition and coils, MotoGadget switches and M-Unit, GPS speedo sensor.. the latter I may bin as not sure it'll work ok.
It should fire up now, except cant put oil in the engine, as I'm still waiting for a couple of seals for the cover which lives behind the front sprocket.
Made the exhaust bracket from 3mm stainless plate, took ages to make it with a hacksaw and file, still need more work to shape it a bit neater. Then it'll be powder coated black, while the new foot peg hangers have been machined to make them a little less of an eyesore. They too will be hard anodised black over this winter.
The bodywork is going of for paint next week, if I get it back before year end I'll be happy.
Received the clutch and brake master cylinders, made in Exeter by a HEL. They are machined from billet alloy, as is the lever, while they have a variable piston size.. in my case 14/15/16mm. The clutch and brake are identical, as they are made so they can be used on the left or right. The bleed nibble and banjo threads are the same, so they can be flipped over.
It should fire up now, except cant put oil in the engine, as I'm still waiting for a couple of seals for the cover which lives behind the front sprocket.
Made the exhaust bracket from 3mm stainless plate, took ages to make it with a hacksaw and file, still need more work to shape it a bit neater. Then it'll be powder coated black, while the new foot peg hangers have been machined to make them a little less of an eyesore. They too will be hard anodised black over this winter.
The bodywork is going of for paint next week, if I get it back before year end I'll be happy.
Received the clutch and brake master cylinders, made in Exeter by a HEL. They are machined from billet alloy, as is the lever, while they have a variable piston size.. in my case 14/15/16mm. The clutch and brake are identical, as they are made so they can be used on the left or right. The bleed nibble and banjo threads are the same, so they can be flipped over.
With the paintwork away, been slowly ticking off the long list of jobs before I can try to start the engine for the first time. Drilled and mounted the blank rear sprocket, had to be blank as the rear hub was drilled to match no other wheel in the known universe.. With that done could check on the chain alignment, with the ZZR1100 front sprocket, which in turn has a 5/8ths built in offset. Turns out that's not enough and its still 10mm out of alignment. Been trying to source a 1 inch offset front sprocket, but no look just yet. Another option is to remove and dismantle the rear wheel and machine down the LH hub by 10 mm.. luckily there is plenty of room between the chain run and rim/tyre.
The next job proved to be very frustrating, trying to fit the one off outrigger bearing support.. the inner plate wouldn't fit over the gearchange shaft, as the side stand spring tang got in the way. Something that should've been spotted long ago. But with the various C19 lockdowns it wasn't possible, as the engine and frame were in different workshops.
The answer was to fit the shaft through the plate, then fit its mechanism to the engine.. while the plate was in the way.. took a lot of attempts before I felt confident enough to fit the handmade gasket and fit it for real. Got there in the end. Though its support spacers for the outer plate need a little machining to get them to fit just right.
I painted the alloy foot peg hangers satin black, just to see how they look, they'll need to be hard anodised later, as even the so called 'tough' paint will soon be scratched otherwise.
Also fitted the duel cable throttle with a cable kit from Venhill, and measured and ordered the brake and clutch lines from HEL.
The next job proved to be very frustrating, trying to fit the one off outrigger bearing support.. the inner plate wouldn't fit over the gearchange shaft, as the side stand spring tang got in the way. Something that should've been spotted long ago. But with the various C19 lockdowns it wasn't possible, as the engine and frame were in different workshops.
The answer was to fit the shaft through the plate, then fit its mechanism to the engine.. while the plate was in the way.. took a lot of attempts before I felt confident enough to fit the handmade gasket and fit it for real. Got there in the end. Though its support spacers for the outer plate need a little machining to get them to fit just right.
I painted the alloy foot peg hangers satin black, just to see how they look, they'll need to be hard anodised later, as even the so called 'tough' paint will soon be scratched otherwise.
Also fitted the duel cable throttle with a cable kit from Venhill, and measured and ordered the brake and clutch lines from HEL.
After a pause of a couple of months, rolled the bike out on the drive and made a start, leaving a trail of oil on my drive. No surprise as the gearbox sprocket outrigger plate isn't fitted yet. It needs a thicker gasket, which is unique, I've made one, but not tried it out yet. Therefore as soon as I took it off the paddock stand, oil was bound to leak. Hence all the cardboard under the bike.
Fitted the badging on the RHS and fitted the ZX6R rear brake light. Still need to bend its alloy mounting bracket so the number plate is angled out a bit. Then it'll have to be given a tough black finish, either Cerokote or hard anodised. In the pic the ducktail isn't bolted down yet so it's not at the correct angle.
Fitted the badging on the RHS and fitted the ZX6R rear brake light. Still need to bend its alloy mounting bracket so the number plate is angled out a bit. Then it'll have to be given a tough black finish, either Cerokote or hard anodised. In the pic the ducktail isn't bolted down yet so it's not at the correct angle.
Took a few parts from the 1170 and my Mk2 project to Camcoat (a local specialist) to be ceramically anodised, 2 or 3 week turnaround. So decided just to paint the rear light bracket for now in so called 'Tough Paint' not sure how tough it really is, but it'll do for now. Meanwhile, got a frame arriving today which will be the start of a new project .
Not much happening with the 1170 project, as been waiting for some parts to be ceramically anodised etc. However, the 1170 is only one of four Zed project bikes I'm working on at the moment. The first is the free green Z650 which I already have a build thread about. That one is now awaiting the winter when its engine will be rebuilt. The third Zed is a 1979 Z1000MK2, which I bought from a mate last year, it was far from standard when I got it. The frame had been braced and powder coated already, while the front forks, swing arm and shocks were from a ZRX1200, while the three spoke wheels were from a early R1. However, it came with original and mint bodywork, which had been carefully kept in my mates loft for decades.
As for the engine, it is getting my old Z1000 turbo engine, sans turbo, which has some cool performance parts, such as the Orient Express big block and forged pistons, which give 1400cc.
Rebuilding the motor has taken a long time, and at the moment its all done, except for the head, which has gone off to be ported and completely rebuilt.
Couple of months ago I finally rolled it out for the corner of my overcrowded garage to make a start on the rolling chassis. I didn't like the old R1 wheels, so replaced them with a pair of a new old stock wheels from an R6. Fitting they wheels to the ZRX1200 forks and swing arm wasn't easy. I went for a set of British made Armstrong discs, and must say they seem excellent value.
I also wanted to upgrade the ZRX shocks, so after a lot of research, I ordered a pair from Maxton, custom made to my spec. They are due next week. The replica seat came from Japan, via Z-Power.
Only one shock fitted, waiting for the Maxtons to arrived
As for the engine, it is getting my old Z1000 turbo engine, sans turbo, which has some cool performance parts, such as the Orient Express big block and forged pistons, which give 1400cc.
Rebuilding the motor has taken a long time, and at the moment its all done, except for the head, which has gone off to be ported and completely rebuilt.
Couple of months ago I finally rolled it out for the corner of my overcrowded garage to make a start on the rolling chassis. I didn't like the old R1 wheels, so replaced them with a pair of a new old stock wheels from an R6. Fitting they wheels to the ZRX1200 forks and swing arm wasn't easy. I went for a set of British made Armstrong discs, and must say they seem excellent value.
I also wanted to upgrade the ZRX shocks, so after a lot of research, I ordered a pair from Maxton, custom made to my spec. They are due next week. The replica seat came from Japan, via Z-Power.
Only one shock fitted, waiting for the Maxtons to arrived
The forth Zed is another long term project, originally I'd been looking for a rough 'barn find' Z1000 on Ebay, or perhaps a Gpz750 Turbo that needed work. Sadly such bikes are selling for at least 50% more than I think is sensible, so I took a different approach. Since I would be replacing the wheels, suspension, electrics, rebuilding the engine etc, I bought a frame from a 1978 Z1000 instead, which had been imported from the US by D&K. It had no V5, but it did have a NOVA certificate to show import duties had been paid.
I had already decided to join the 21st century and fit USD forks, and since I liked the wheels of the newish Z900RS, I set about buying parts. Got a few good deals, but sadly the Z900RS swing arm couldn't be made to fit the old Z1000 frame, a pity as it would've easy to convert it to twin shock.
Instead I bought an early XJR1300 swing arm, as the spindle size is the same as the Z900RS at 20mm, though of course the swing arm pivot bolt is very different from a Z1000, as indeed are the headset bearings. But nothing that can't be sorted when my mate has a lathe and miller.
All new bodywork from Japan, including the tank, not too expensive compared to prices on Ebay for dented, rusting examples..
I had already decided to join the 21st century and fit USD forks, and since I liked the wheels of the newish Z900RS, I set about buying parts. Got a few good deals, but sadly the Z900RS swing arm couldn't be made to fit the old Z1000 frame, a pity as it would've easy to convert it to twin shock.
Instead I bought an early XJR1300 swing arm, as the spindle size is the same as the Z900RS at 20mm, though of course the swing arm pivot bolt is very different from a Z1000, as indeed are the headset bearings. But nothing that can't be sorted when my mate has a lathe and miller.
All new bodywork from Japan, including the tank, not too expensive compared to prices on Ebay for dented, rusting examples..
The custom seat has arrived from Japan, a bargain as its pillion strap was missing, no problem, as I don't fit them anyway. The rear caliper mount is done though it needs a little more work to make it look better..
While the machined caliper mount now needs to be coated, and a rose jointed torque arm made..
Moving to the front end, the Z1000 stem has had a threaded steel plug welded into its base, next a spacer needs to be added which will be a press fit into the Z900RS lower yoke.
Bought a head for the engine, in good condition, with its cam caps, but valve seats will be recut, with new valves etc.
While today split the cases for the Z1000A1, and checked them very carefully for any damage or cracks, thankfully they look ok. So the cases, cam cover and sump cover can be taken to be ceramically coated in the week. While the barrel will need to be bored out by 1mm to suite the new pistons, and the head needs its valve seats recut. Then they in turn can be coated.
While the machined caliper mount now needs to be coated, and a rose jointed torque arm made..
Moving to the front end, the Z1000 stem has had a threaded steel plug welded into its base, next a spacer needs to be added which will be a press fit into the Z900RS lower yoke.
Bought a head for the engine, in good condition, with its cam caps, but valve seats will be recut, with new valves etc.
While today split the cases for the Z1000A1, and checked them very carefully for any damage or cracks, thankfully they look ok. So the cases, cam cover and sump cover can be taken to be ceramically coated in the week. While the barrel will need to be bored out by 1mm to suite the new pistons, and the head needs its valve seats recut. Then they in turn can be coated.
Found a pair of headlight brackets I liked for the MK2, they can be fitted without dropping the stanchions in the yokes, but sadly the back of the clamps hit the tank on full lock, so they cant be used. Therefore, since I had an original ugly ZRX1200 headlight/fairing mount, I've sketched out a better looking version, and bent a piece of 7mm steel rod to make a sort of cage, similar tot hat used on the KZ650. Just taken it to my local welder to have him complete it, and fab the all important mounts to bolt it to the existing cast mounts which are part of the ZRX1200 yokes. I took along the ZRX mount to use as a guide as to how the mounts should be made.
Test fitted the new headlight bracket to the Mk2.. will fit fine once I space it out with some neoprene washers, along with spacers between the bracket and lower yoke. The original ZRX bracket used thick rubber grommets which need to be accounted for. Next need to make a pair of alloy 'ears', to bolt to this bracket which will hold the headlight.
Meanwhile, took a trip to Maxton Suspension to collect my custom built shocks.. very nice. Cant fit them yet as the upper shock mount uses spacer/threaded jet style nut to move the mount out to match the wider swing arm. The ZRX shocks fitted originally had their top mounts modified to fit the now 18mm extension. Standard Zeds use a 14mm top mount, as does my new Maxton shocks. I wasn't happy with the 'extenders' that were fitted, so will make something better in one piece not two, complete with a standard 14mm top mount.
Test fitted the new headlight bracket to the Mk2.. will fit fine once I space it out with some neoprene washers, along with spacers between the bracket and lower yoke. The original ZRX bracket used thick rubber grommets which need to be accounted for. Next need to make a pair of alloy 'ears', to bolt to this bracket which will hold the headlight.
Meanwhile, took a trip to Maxton Suspension to collect my custom built shocks.. very nice. Cant fit them yet as the upper shock mount uses spacer/threaded jet style nut to move the mount out to match the wider swing arm. The ZRX shocks fitted originally had their top mounts modified to fit the now 18mm extension. Standard Zeds use a 14mm top mount, as does my new Maxton shocks. I wasn't happy with the 'extenders' that were fitted, so will make something better in one piece not two, complete with a standard 14mm top mount.
Have been slowly buying new and used parts to build the Z1000A1 engine. Bought this 1015cc block, like most of on Ebay it had a broken fins, this one was one of the better blocks for sale..
So took it to a friend who filled the broken area with weld, then we carefully filed it smooth, looks good as new. Next I'll have it bored out by 1mm to suite the new pistons, and finally it needs to be ceramically coated, same as the cases. The rest of the engine is going to be silver, but might have the block coated black... not sure yet.
So took it to a friend who filled the broken area with weld, then we carefully filed it smooth, looks good as new. Next I'll have it bored out by 1mm to suite the new pistons, and finally it needs to be ceramically coated, same as the cases. The rest of the engine is going to be silver, but might have the block coated black... not sure yet.
David Beer said:
Not exactly the same for me. ! I just want get my 1977 z650 ( 32k on the clock ! )going. It last hit the road in 95 and I stupidly took the piranha ignition module off and made a note of what wires went where, at least I thought I had. ! Anybody know what four wires go where ? Yellow, purple, white, blue.
Thanks in advance if anybody knows, I have searched all over the internet.
Have you tried the Z650 forum... v helpful https://z650.proboards.com/Thanks in advance if anybody knows, I have searched all over the internet.
Been looking for a replica Z900RS fairing for a few months for the Z1000A1, as the OE fairing is ridiculously expensive. Finally found what I was looking for on a Japanese website, and it arrived today. Very pleased with the quality, and of course its carbon fibre, good value at £220, though no screen and have to make a mount for it.
While, before it gets to hot today, weighed the 1170 at last, with no petrol, but all other fluids, its 211kgs / 466lbs . That's 34kgs or 75lbs lighter than the dry weight of a Z1000. Happy with that, and I reckon the MK2 will be even lighter. Just got to fix its oil leak from the outrigger inner plate and it should be ready to ride.
While, before it gets to hot today, weighed the 1170 at last, with no petrol, but all other fluids, its 211kgs / 466lbs . That's 34kgs or 75lbs lighter than the dry weight of a Z1000. Happy with that, and I reckon the MK2 will be even lighter. Just got to fix its oil leak from the outrigger inner plate and it should be ready to ride.
Got the cases, cam cover and sump for the Z1000A1 back from a local specialist - Camcoat - who gave them a silver ceramic coating, very pleased with the results. The cylinder head couldn't be coated at the same time, as it was away at a local machine shop having its valve seats recut and getting a mild skim.
I unwrapped the head to see if the colours matched with the cam cover, as then perhaps it didn't need an expensive ceramic coating too. It looked pretty good..
However when I unwrapped the cylinder head for the first time since it came back from the machine shop, things weren't so good... they had somehow managed to break four of the fins. A pita as it took me months to find a head on Ebay which didn't have any broken fins. I think it can be repaired , not sure what's happened, but looks like its been dropped? The machine shop has a good rep, and normally they work on classic Porches, Aston Martins etc .
I unwrapped the head to see if the colours matched with the cam cover, as then perhaps it didn't need an expensive ceramic coating too. It looked pretty good..
However when I unwrapped the cylinder head for the first time since it came back from the machine shop, things weren't so good... they had somehow managed to break four of the fins. A pita as it took me months to find a head on Ebay which didn't have any broken fins. I think it can be repaired , not sure what's happened, but looks like its been dropped? The machine shop has a good rep, and normally they work on classic Porches, Aston Martins etc .
Haven't told them yet, as waiting to get an idea of the cost to fix the issue. I now someone else who had the same problem recently, seems an apprentice dropped the head, but the boss paid for the repair no problem. Suspect the same thing happened with mine, but the apprentice didn't tell the boss, while the head was carefully wrapped in bubble wrap when I collected it, and I didn't unwrap it until yesterday. Lesson learned, should always check parts when I collect them.
Even without the engine installed, I think I can built approx 80 or 90% of the Mk2's wiring. To start, managed to use an existing mount to fit the rectifier underneath the right hand side panel. No such luck on the left hand side, where I want to mount the M-Unit Blue, so need to make a mounting plate which will utilise a pair of existing captive nuts. Next, had to make 4 spacers to mount the Dyna coils in the OE position.
Test fit the headlight on its new mount, still needs more work to improve the looks and be able to mount the front OE indicators.
Have a matching pair of Motogadget micro switchgear on order, when they arrive can drill the new Renthal handlebar for their wiring, and fit the bars and the new HEL brake and clutch Master cylinders to the bike.
The instruments are a headache, as want to use OE looking set, but they are mechanically driven, which can't do anymore on my bike. I can buy an OE electronic tacho but no one seems to make a matching speedo. More thought required.
Test fit the headlight on its new mount, still needs more work to improve the looks and be able to mount the front OE indicators.
Have a matching pair of Motogadget micro switchgear on order, when they arrive can drill the new Renthal handlebar for their wiring, and fit the bars and the new HEL brake and clutch Master cylinders to the bike.
The instruments are a headache, as want to use OE looking set, but they are mechanically driven, which can't do anymore on my bike. I can buy an OE electronic tacho but no one seems to make a matching speedo. More thought required.
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