Z650 Restomod Build Thread
Discussion
The custom seat has arrived from Japan, a bargain as its pillion strap was missing, no problem, as I don't fit them anyway. The rear caliper mount is done though it needs a little more work to make it look better..
While the machined caliper mount now needs to be coated, and a rose jointed torque arm made..
Moving to the front end, the Z1000 stem has had a threaded steel plug welded into its base, next a spacer needs to be added which will be a press fit into the Z900RS lower yoke.
Bought a head for the engine, in good condition, with its cam caps, but valve seats will be recut, with new valves etc.
While today split the cases for the Z1000A1, and checked them very carefully for any damage or cracks, thankfully they look ok. So the cases, cam cover and sump cover can be taken to be ceramically coated in the week. While the barrel will need to be bored out by 1mm to suite the new pistons, and the head needs its valve seats recut. Then they in turn can be coated.
While the machined caliper mount now needs to be coated, and a rose jointed torque arm made..
Moving to the front end, the Z1000 stem has had a threaded steel plug welded into its base, next a spacer needs to be added which will be a press fit into the Z900RS lower yoke.
Bought a head for the engine, in good condition, with its cam caps, but valve seats will be recut, with new valves etc.
While today split the cases for the Z1000A1, and checked them very carefully for any damage or cracks, thankfully they look ok. So the cases, cam cover and sump cover can be taken to be ceramically coated in the week. While the barrel will need to be bored out by 1mm to suite the new pistons, and the head needs its valve seats recut. Then they in turn can be coated.
Found a pair of headlight brackets I liked for the MK2, they can be fitted without dropping the stanchions in the yokes, but sadly the back of the clamps hit the tank on full lock, so they cant be used. Therefore, since I had an original ugly ZRX1200 headlight/fairing mount, I've sketched out a better looking version, and bent a piece of 7mm steel rod to make a sort of cage, similar tot hat used on the KZ650. Just taken it to my local welder to have him complete it, and fab the all important mounts to bolt it to the existing cast mounts which are part of the ZRX1200 yokes. I took along the ZRX mount to use as a guide as to how the mounts should be made.
Test fitted the new headlight bracket to the Mk2.. will fit fine once I space it out with some neoprene washers, along with spacers between the bracket and lower yoke. The original ZRX bracket used thick rubber grommets which need to be accounted for. Next need to make a pair of alloy 'ears', to bolt to this bracket which will hold the headlight.
Meanwhile, took a trip to Maxton Suspension to collect my custom built shocks.. very nice. Cant fit them yet as the upper shock mount uses spacer/threaded jet style nut to move the mount out to match the wider swing arm. The ZRX shocks fitted originally had their top mounts modified to fit the now 18mm extension. Standard Zeds use a 14mm top mount, as does my new Maxton shocks. I wasn't happy with the 'extenders' that were fitted, so will make something better in one piece not two, complete with a standard 14mm top mount.
Test fitted the new headlight bracket to the Mk2.. will fit fine once I space it out with some neoprene washers, along with spacers between the bracket and lower yoke. The original ZRX bracket used thick rubber grommets which need to be accounted for. Next need to make a pair of alloy 'ears', to bolt to this bracket which will hold the headlight.
Meanwhile, took a trip to Maxton Suspension to collect my custom built shocks.. very nice. Cant fit them yet as the upper shock mount uses spacer/threaded jet style nut to move the mount out to match the wider swing arm. The ZRX shocks fitted originally had their top mounts modified to fit the now 18mm extension. Standard Zeds use a 14mm top mount, as does my new Maxton shocks. I wasn't happy with the 'extenders' that were fitted, so will make something better in one piece not two, complete with a standard 14mm top mount.
Have been slowly buying new and used parts to build the Z1000A1 engine. Bought this 1015cc block, like most of on Ebay it had a broken fins, this one was one of the better blocks for sale..
So took it to a friend who filled the broken area with weld, then we carefully filed it smooth, looks good as new. Next I'll have it bored out by 1mm to suite the new pistons, and finally it needs to be ceramically coated, same as the cases. The rest of the engine is going to be silver, but might have the block coated black... not sure yet.
So took it to a friend who filled the broken area with weld, then we carefully filed it smooth, looks good as new. Next I'll have it bored out by 1mm to suite the new pistons, and finally it needs to be ceramically coated, same as the cases. The rest of the engine is going to be silver, but might have the block coated black... not sure yet.
Not exactly the same for me. ! I just want get my 1977 z650 ( 32k on the clock ! )going. It last hit the road in 95 and I stupidly took the piranha ignition module off and made a note of what wires went where, at least I thought I had. ! Anybody know what four wires go where ? Yellow, purple, white, blue.
Thanks in advance if anybody knows, I have searched all over the internet.
Thanks in advance if anybody knows, I have searched all over the internet.
David Beer said:
Not exactly the same for me. ! I just want get my 1977 z650 ( 32k on the clock ! )going. It last hit the road in 95 and I stupidly took the piranha ignition module off and made a note of what wires went where, at least I thought I had. ! Anybody know what four wires go where ? Yellow, purple, white, blue.
Thanks in advance if anybody knows, I have searched all over the internet.
Have you tried the Z650 forum... v helpful https://z650.proboards.com/Thanks in advance if anybody knows, I have searched all over the internet.
Merch131 said:
Have you tried the Z650 forum... v helpful https://z650.proboards.com/
Thank you for the link.! Took the module apart and can clearly see the positive input (white) Got it running now but only on two cylinders but a bit of fiddling will get the other two back. Been looking for a replica Z900RS fairing for a few months for the Z1000A1, as the OE fairing is ridiculously expensive. Finally found what I was looking for on a Japanese website, and it arrived today. Very pleased with the quality, and of course its carbon fibre, good value at £220, though no screen and have to make a mount for it.
While, before it gets to hot today, weighed the 1170 at last, with no petrol, but all other fluids, its 211kgs / 466lbs . That's 34kgs or 75lbs lighter than the dry weight of a Z1000. Happy with that, and I reckon the MK2 will be even lighter. Just got to fix its oil leak from the outrigger inner plate and it should be ready to ride.
While, before it gets to hot today, weighed the 1170 at last, with no petrol, but all other fluids, its 211kgs / 466lbs . That's 34kgs or 75lbs lighter than the dry weight of a Z1000. Happy with that, and I reckon the MK2 will be even lighter. Just got to fix its oil leak from the outrigger inner plate and it should be ready to ride.
Got the cases, cam cover and sump for the Z1000A1 back from a local specialist - Camcoat - who gave them a silver ceramic coating, very pleased with the results. The cylinder head couldn't be coated at the same time, as it was away at a local machine shop having its valve seats recut and getting a mild skim.
I unwrapped the head to see if the colours matched with the cam cover, as then perhaps it didn't need an expensive ceramic coating too. It looked pretty good..
However when I unwrapped the cylinder head for the first time since it came back from the machine shop, things weren't so good... they had somehow managed to break four of the fins. A pita as it took me months to find a head on Ebay which didn't have any broken fins. I think it can be repaired , not sure what's happened, but looks like its been dropped? The machine shop has a good rep, and normally they work on classic Porches, Aston Martins etc .
I unwrapped the head to see if the colours matched with the cam cover, as then perhaps it didn't need an expensive ceramic coating too. It looked pretty good..
However when I unwrapped the cylinder head for the first time since it came back from the machine shop, things weren't so good... they had somehow managed to break four of the fins. A pita as it took me months to find a head on Ebay which didn't have any broken fins. I think it can be repaired , not sure what's happened, but looks like its been dropped? The machine shop has a good rep, and normally they work on classic Porches, Aston Martins etc .
Merch131 said:
Got the cases, cam cover and sump for the Z1000A1 back from a local specialist - Camcoat - who gave them a silver ceramic coating, very pleased with the results. The cylinder head couldn't be coated at the same time, as it was away at a local machine shop having its valve seats recut and getting a mild skim.
I unwrapped the head to see if the colours matched with the cam cover, as then perhaps it didn't need an expensive ceramic coating too. It looked pretty good..
However when I unwrapped the cylinder head for the first time since it came back from the machine shop, things weren't so good... they had somehow managed to break four of the fins. A pita as it took me months to find a head on Ebay which didn't have any broken fins. I think it can be repaired , not sure what's happened, but looks like its been dropped? The machine shop has a good rep, and normally they work on classic Porches, Aston Martins etc .
That is really bad, what did they say when you showed them this?I unwrapped the head to see if the colours matched with the cam cover, as then perhaps it didn't need an expensive ceramic coating too. It looked pretty good..
However when I unwrapped the cylinder head for the first time since it came back from the machine shop, things weren't so good... they had somehow managed to break four of the fins. A pita as it took me months to find a head on Ebay which didn't have any broken fins. I think it can be repaired , not sure what's happened, but looks like its been dropped? The machine shop has a good rep, and normally they work on classic Porches, Aston Martins etc .
Haven't told them yet, as waiting to get an idea of the cost to fix the issue. I now someone else who had the same problem recently, seems an apprentice dropped the head, but the boss paid for the repair no problem. Suspect the same thing happened with mine, but the apprentice didn't tell the boss, while the head was carefully wrapped in bubble wrap when I collected it, and I didn't unwrap it until yesterday. Lesson learned, should always check parts when I collect them.
Even without the engine installed, I think I can built approx 80 or 90% of the Mk2's wiring. To start, managed to use an existing mount to fit the rectifier underneath the right hand side panel. No such luck on the left hand side, where I want to mount the M-Unit Blue, so need to make a mounting plate which will utilise a pair of existing captive nuts. Next, had to make 4 spacers to mount the Dyna coils in the OE position.
Test fit the headlight on its new mount, still needs more work to improve the looks and be able to mount the front OE indicators.
Have a matching pair of Motogadget micro switchgear on order, when they arrive can drill the new Renthal handlebar for their wiring, and fit the bars and the new HEL brake and clutch Master cylinders to the bike.
The instruments are a headache, as want to use OE looking set, but they are mechanically driven, which can't do anymore on my bike. I can buy an OE electronic tacho but no one seems to make a matching speedo. More thought required.
Test fit the headlight on its new mount, still needs more work to improve the looks and be able to mount the front OE indicators.
Have a matching pair of Motogadget micro switchgear on order, when they arrive can drill the new Renthal handlebar for their wiring, and fit the bars and the new HEL brake and clutch Master cylinders to the bike.
The instruments are a headache, as want to use OE looking set, but they are mechanically driven, which can't do anymore on my bike. I can buy an OE electronic tacho but no one seems to make a matching speedo. More thought required.
Mounted the M-Unit without having to add anymore holes to the frame, will cut down the alloy mounting plate at some point, but for now leaving it, as may want to bolt something else to it, such as the horn.
Made a cardboard template for the rear part of the mudguard, then make it in 1.2mm stainless plate. Bit of a gap on either side, which I may need to address, but then again this bike wont be seeing rain if I can help it.
The headlight mount is coming along, though need to make the wide part of the alloy ears look better, not decided how yet, though they will be black when finished which should help ..
Made a cardboard template for the rear part of the mudguard, then make it in 1.2mm stainless plate. Bit of a gap on either side, which I may need to address, but then again this bike wont be seeing rain if I can help it.
The headlight mount is coming along, though need to make the wide part of the alloy ears look better, not decided how yet, though they will be black when finished which should help ..
Merch131 said:
Got the cylinder head back, with the broken fins now repaired, looks good,.. now it needs to be coated to match the rest of the engine cases
Before..
After..
Interesting project, I remember having a Z650B when nearly new decades ago, overall it was a very reliable bike especially the bulletproof engine, handled well with the aftermarket Koni rear shocks and sounded gorgeous with a 4 into 1 Piper exhaust fitted Before..
After..
The only problem was the wiring harness would gradually rot from the inside and the headlight and clocks would go off doing over a ton or even start to misfire, ended up having to run several cables in parallel to the wiring harness from the fuse box under the seat to the connectors in the headlight shell.
Another odd quirk was a spider that lived inside the tacho would come out in the evening when on the move and sit at the 8000 rpm marker and wouldn't shift until the tacho needle reached 8k and knocked him off, but annoyingly he always came back to the same position for more fun
By some miracle according to the Dvla vehicle check the bike is still out there somewhere with a 750cc engine and in a blue colour, it was green originally although I sold it with a spare tank/side panels and tailpiece in dark blue, the reg was TUV ***S, could it be the same bike?
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