Talk to me about Superdukes

[Freakuk]

trickywoo said:

Freakuk said:

I haven't seen the front cylinder guard for the Gen3 if I am honest, but it's pretty well protected, no visible damage after 2 years and 7K miles on mine.

Oh and make sure the front exhaust clamp is tight as they can rotate and puncture the rad, just keep an eye on it.

Thanks good to know. I’m keeping an eye on stuff coming loose generally but specifics are good.

Any recommendations for tank / knee pads, preferably clear?

I've not seen a clear protector for the SDR, KTM do them and Bagaros does them but both in black/grey.

[Freakuk]

trickywoo said:

mak said:

I can now forgive you for that ridiculous sv650 post, happy new bike day .

Thanks. It does feel a very different bike to when I tested it more if less brand new. It doesn’t make a lot of sense but even the quick shift is a lot soother now, it was pretty harsh on the test ride using it exactly the same way I do now.

Seems quite easy to keep clean which is a bonus this time of year.

The linkage to the gear selector has two positions, one has a shorter shift but it also requires more force to shift gears, it could be that the bike you tried was setup in the shorter shift setting. I've tried both and returned to the default longer shift as it shifts are much smoother.

On that subject you will see that you can reverse the linkage and switch to a race shift, the Q/S and blipper work as normal. I moved to this setup (and moved the rearsets to the higher setting) almost immediately as all of my bikes are in race shift.

[trickywoo]

Freakuk said:

On that subject you will see that you can reverse the linkage and switch to a race shift, the Q/S and blipper work as normal. I moved to this setup (and moved the rearsets to the higher setting) almost immediately as all of my bikes are in race shift.

Race shift has always made more sense to me, especially on a powerful bike I instinctively want to press down for another gear so will give this a go.

Is it as simple as it looks, just moving the mount from the bottom to the top? I’d be tempted to put a dab of blue thread lock on too.

[rigga]

Any bolt you remove on any Duke, always apply blue loctite, or it will fall out, I'd also run around all the fasteners on a regular basis that haven't been removed too.

Race shift intrigues me, but having a lifetime of never using it, I'd prob brain fart and hit a squillion revs by going the wrong at the wrong time. Those that have changed on the 890 seem to think it improves shift quality.

[V5Ade]

I just had a thought. I'm pretty sure both my 790 Duke and 1290 Superduke were restricted before the 600 mile running in service. I wonder how many ride a demo bike before the 600 mile service is completed?

[Freakuk]

V5Ade said:

I just had a thought. I'm pretty sure both my 790 Duke and 1290 Superduke were restricted before the 600 mile running in service. I wonder how many ride a demo bike before the 600 mile service is completed?

It's a common misconception, they're not restricted in any way.

[Freakuk]

trickywoo said:

Freakuk said:

On that subject you will see that you can reverse the linkage and switch to a race shift, the Q/S and blipper work as normal. I moved to this setup (and moved the rearsets to the higher setting) almost immediately as all of my bikes are in race shift.

Race shift has always made more sense to me, especially on a powerful bike I instinctively want to press down for another gear so will give this a go.

Is it as simple as it looks, just moving the mount from the bottom to the top? I’d be tempted to put a dab of blue thread lock on too.

It's not quite that simple, but not difficult.

The manual states you have to move the rearsets to the higher position, but I've read you don't need to do this. That's literally removing the bottom bolt off the rearset hanger and turning the bracket the bolt screws into the other way around, you probably need to slacken the top bolt also.

The tie rod linkage will need to be removed from the gear shift shaft and swapping to the opposite position (out thread is longer shift, inner thread in the smaller shift - but as mentioned this is much clunkier), you'll then have to adjust the length of the link rod as it the gear selector will be in a different position once all swapped.

It's probably a 20-30 minute job if you're good with the spanners.

[trickywoo]

Freakuk said:

It's not quite that simple, but not difficult.

The manual states you have to move the rearsets to the higher position, but I've read you don't need to do this. That's literally removing the bottom bolt off the rearset hanger and turning the bracket the bolt screws into the other way around, you probably need to slacken the top bolt also.

The tie rod linkage will need to be removed from the gear shift shaft and swapping to the opposite position (out thread is longer shift, inner thread in the smaller shift - but as mentioned this is much clunkier), you'll then have to adjust the length of the link rod as it the gear selector will be in a different position once all swapped.

It's probably a 20-30 minute job if you're good with the spanners.

Before your advice I moved it from the bottom hole on the 'lever' bit near the shift rubber to the top hole. Nothing else. Just come back from a test. Works a treat. I've always wanted to press down for a higher gear so it works for me. I think the only fluster point may be if I need to find 1st quickly and automatically stamp down, other than that its much nicer.

[trickywoo]

For anyone fitting the Evotech rad guard to a Gen 3 be very careful tightening the 'ear' retainers down. KTM have used a push in insert which isn't even a glorified washer.

I've got good feel working on bikes and well know about small steel screws going into alloy. I hadn't even got to the nip point never mind nipping up before the left one let go.

Its not a big deal as a 5mm slip on captive nut will do a better job than the original. Even though the other side seems fine I'm tempted to replace that as its not up to the job of retaining a rad guard IMO.

In other news I've been watching the oil level as it was over filled from when I picked it up. I thought maybe stone cold it would drop to the top marker but that hasn't been the case. I decided to suck some out and found it had an excess of about 100ml over the cold max. The coolant is also only just on the minimum but hasn't moved from there.

Bit disappointed with the so called PDI.

I'm loving the race shift. I ended up having to lengthen the shift rod by half a turn as the dash wasn't always showing 1 when in first. It was always in gear but obviously not quite there for the electronics to pick up.

I've started deliberately setting my foot under the lever when in neutral to help with the up reminder but its not been an issue and I'm increasingly of the view that any bike with a QS should be in race shift.

High 40s MPG (computer) on the first refill. I hadn't managed to 0 the trip before so can't say actual yet.

[KTMsm]

trickywoo said:

I've been watching the oil level as it was over filled from when I picked it up. I thought maybe stone cold it would drop to the top marker but that hasn't been the case. I decided to suck some out and found it had an excess of about 100ml over the cold max.

The coolant is also only just on the minimum but hasn't moved from there.

Bit disappointed with the so called PDI.

So the oil is 100ml high and the coolant on the minimum

Doesn't really sound like much of a problem

I never fill coolant past the minimum anymore, I used to top them up to the maximum but after having a couple of bikes puke the excess out on the customer's first ride, I learnt my lesson

[trickywoo]

KTMsm said:

So the oil is 100ml high and the coolant on the minimum

Doesn't really sound like much of a problem

I never fill coolant past the minimum anymore, I used to top them up to the maximum but after having a couple of bikes puke the excess out on the customer's first ride, I learnt my lesson

My issue with the oil was that the sight glass was always full, no air bubble, even tipping the bike well over to the right. I didn't know how much too full it was.

Not a problem but not getting levels right on a pdi is pretty basic.

[paddy1970]

Too much oil increases the pressure in the crankcase, forcing oil into the intake system. This can cause engine damage...depending how long you rode the bike...

[bgunn]

rodericb said:

This "wait until everything has booted up/self tested" thing sounds a bit st. maybe they need to lock-out the starter button until all the computers have reported back to base. Stick a light in the starter button when it's ready to press....... One more thing to pay for, one more thing to break.

Or just electronically isolate it until ready, and put a little message up on the tft if you press it before that time. Seems under developed and tested if they're so sensitive and there's nothing to prevent issues. BMW use CAN and I don't hear of legions of them having electronics issues?

[KTMsm]

paddy1970 said:

Too much oil increases the pressure in the crankcase, forcing oil into the intake system. This can cause engine damage...depending how long you rode the bike...

Do you know what 100ml looks like ?

I'll agree it's not ideal and I would have removed it but it's not going to affect anything

[paddy1970]

He may have taken 100ml out but it could have been overfilled by 1/2 liter and burned through. The only way to find out is to look at the air filter (if it is the paper version) and also have a look at the spark plug.

[trickywoo]

In the interests of keeping this rolling it turned out the oil was over by around 500ml.

I kept thinking it couldn't be that much over and chipped away at sucking out with a tube and 70ml syringe. The 'handbook' (you actually only get a link to a pdf these days and not an actual book) says to check at operating temperature which works out at the second notch down cold and top one hot.

I think what happened was 'boss' man told the shop kid to put 0.5l of coolant in and he forgot and did the oil instead. At least the coolant didn't end up in the oil.

I was increasingly paranoid about it so took the tank off to check the airbox. Thankfully bone dry in there. It was also a good way to get get a feel for working on the bike and everything you have to remove to get the tank off was logical and well designed. No stripped or corroded fasteners like I found on a pretty new Triumph I had previously.

I'm not 100% confident in the electronics as the bike seemed to cut out when I reset the trip although I hasn't done it again.

The headlamp is also a bit confusing as the low beam seems dependent on ambient light. With the running lights on you can select main beam but clicking it down again (in daylight) doesn't go to dipped just running light. More experimentation needed.

[TimmyWimmyWoo]

trickywoo said:

It was also a good way to get get a feel for working on the bike and everything you have to remove to get the tank off was logical and well designed. No stripped or corroded fasteners like I found on a pretty new Triumph I had previously.

Good to hear it's not just me that thinks this - I had to strip the entire front end of my 1290 Super Adventure S to wire in a sat-nav and it was incredibly logical and easy to take apart, all using pretty much one size of Torx bit, included in the excellent toolkit (which even has a t-handle bit driver!). Glad to hear you got your oil level back in check.

[trickywoo]

TimmyWimmyWoo said:

Good to hear it's not just me that thinks this - I had to strip the entire front end of my 1290 Super Adventure S to wire in a sat-nav and it was incredibly logical and easy to take apart, all using pretty much one size of Torx bit, included in the excellent toolkit (which even has a t-handle bit driver!). Glad to hear you got your oil level back in check.

Thanks. Your videos are one of the reasons I went for one instead of the Tuono.

I also think the Tuono is due an update and if it comes in the next year or two I'll wait for another couple of years and then swap the Duke (assuming the reviews are good).

[tankslappa]

trickywoo said:

For anyone fitting the Evotech rad guard to a Gen 3 be very careful tightening the 'ear' retainers down. KTM have used a push in insert which isn't even a glorified washer.

I've got good feel working on bikes and well know about small steel screws going into alloy. I hadn't even got to the nip point never mind nipping up before the left one let go.

Its not a big deal as a 5mm slip on captive nut will do a better job than the original. Even though the other side seems fine I'm tempted to replace that as its not up to the job of retaining a rad guard IMO.

I had exactly the same issue. Less than an hour after getting mine home, I'm sat in the garage with a fixing that's stripped out of the fairing after trying to fit an Evotech rad guard.

I managed to bodge a repair and it looks perfect, but for extra piece of mind I've discreetly managed to get some cable ties through one of the top perforations of the guard, and secured it to the rad mount. Again, pretty discreet.

[archie456]

trickywoo said:

In the interests of keeping this rolling it turned out the oil was over by around 500ml.

I kept thinking it couldn't be that much over and chipped away at sucking out with a tube and 70ml syringe. The 'handbook' (you actually only get a link to a pdf these days and not an actual book) says to check at operating temperature which works out at the second notch down cold and top one hot.

I think what happened was 'boss' man told the shop kid to put 0.5l of coolant in and he forgot and did the oil instead. At least the coolant didn't end up in the oil.

I was increasingly paranoid about it so took the tank off to check the airbox. Thankfully bone dry in there.

The LC8 engines are dry-sumped, so overfilling isn't going to be so much of an issue.