Suspension settings
Discussion
PB's guide has: fireblade 02
-------standard---------
REAR
preload 4 from min
rebound 2 turns out on punch dots (from full in)
compression 2 turns out
FRONT
preload 11 full turns out from full in
rebound 2 turns out
compression 2 turns out
----PB----TRACK---------
REAR
preload 6 from min
rebound 2 turns out on punch dots (from full in)
compression 1 turns out
FRONT
preload 9 full turns out from full in
rebound 2 turns out
compression 1 turns out
----PB----ROAD---------
REAR
preload 6 from min
rebound 2 turns out on punch dots (from full in)
compression 1 turns out
FRONT
preload 11 full turns out from full in
rebound 2 turns out
compression 3 turns out
-------standard---------
REAR
preload 4 from min
rebound 2 turns out on punch dots (from full in)
compression 2 turns out
FRONT
preload 11 full turns out from full in
rebound 2 turns out
compression 2 turns out
----PB----TRACK---------
REAR
preload 6 from min
rebound 2 turns out on punch dots (from full in)
compression 1 turns out
FRONT
preload 9 full turns out from full in
rebound 2 turns out
compression 1 turns out
----PB----ROAD---------
REAR
preload 6 from min
rebound 2 turns out on punch dots (from full in)
compression 1 turns out
FRONT
preload 11 full turns out from full in
rebound 2 turns out
compression 3 turns out
have a read of this and understand your settings
www.gostar-racing.com/information/motorcycle_suspension_set-up.htm#Setting%20your%20bike%20up
www.gostar-racing.com/information/motorcycle_suspension_set-up.htm#Setting%20your%20bike%20up
forget the PB settings!
You need to ensure your sag (both static and dynamic is set right first). By doing this, you will find out if you have the correct spring rate for your weight. Once you've got the bike's basic chassis setup, you can then concentrate on damping. Until you're in the right weight range for your spring and can acheive the correct sag settings through setting the preload on the shock, the damping won't make a huge difference. All the damping does is, er, damp the action of the spring. If the spring rate in incorrect for your weight then you will never acheive a good setup.....
Be aware that the stock suspension varies enormously in its' build quality. I was in Jerez in 2004 with Colin from 100% bikes suspension, and he set 3 stock ZX10s up with exactly the same settings, and although we didn't ride them, the static difference (i.e. bouncing them up and down) was quite pronounced. The settings that PB give are almost only applicable for the bike they do the setup on.
You need to also ensure your shock is warm (i.e. the oil has warmed up), otherwsie you get cold oil flowing though the comp and rebound pistons internally, which masks the effects of the damping adjustments you are making.
As has already been suggested, I think you are better reading what the effects of each adjustment do, then making your own setup adjustments, a few clicks at a time.
If for the sake of argument, an aftermarket 'race' shock has an adjustment range from 1-10, the range of adjustment on your stock shock may only cover the equivalent of 3-7, this stops people completely f**king things up. There are a number of people who can help set your bike up, but beware of anyone who claims to be able to send you a spec sheet through the post, or doesn't have you sat on the bike in all your riding gear. How can you measure/set preload on the shock (nothing to do with damping) if you're not with the bike at the time? You will need to make at least 2, possibly 3 clicks on the stock shocks to see a difference. Some people say go up 2 or 3 to see the difference, then back off one click, rather than go click by click.
If anyone has an MCN circuit guide, there is a good guide at the front of that which lets you know the effects of what's going on.
However, after speaking to some Ohlins technicians, they now say that due to tyre technoogy, rather than run a tiny amount of rear static sag on the race bikes (e.g. 5-15mm), they can run up to 35mm! This is of course done with all other settings optimised for the bike & rider.
Dependning on your riding style, you may want the front forks to be as plush as possible, and also using nearly all of their travel. A good way to check if the springs need upgrading is to put a zip tie around the base of the fork stanchions and see where the fork legs push it down to. I think you've got optimum springs if you are left with a zip tie about 10-15mm above the base of the fork bottom. Be aware though that most stock fork springs are 'progressive' (i.e. the pring rate increases as they compress). Race springs are normally linear in thier spring rates. Again, damping, in terms of oil wiweght, air gap, shim stacks, comp/rebound piston valving, only affects the rate of movement of the springs themselves.....
>> Edited by fergus on Monday 17th April 11:03
You need to ensure your sag (both static and dynamic is set right first). By doing this, you will find out if you have the correct spring rate for your weight. Once you've got the bike's basic chassis setup, you can then concentrate on damping. Until you're in the right weight range for your spring and can acheive the correct sag settings through setting the preload on the shock, the damping won't make a huge difference. All the damping does is, er, damp the action of the spring. If the spring rate in incorrect for your weight then you will never acheive a good setup.....
Be aware that the stock suspension varies enormously in its' build quality. I was in Jerez in 2004 with Colin from 100% bikes suspension, and he set 3 stock ZX10s up with exactly the same settings, and although we didn't ride them, the static difference (i.e. bouncing them up and down) was quite pronounced. The settings that PB give are almost only applicable for the bike they do the setup on.
You need to also ensure your shock is warm (i.e. the oil has warmed up), otherwsie you get cold oil flowing though the comp and rebound pistons internally, which masks the effects of the damping adjustments you are making.
As has already been suggested, I think you are better reading what the effects of each adjustment do, then making your own setup adjustments, a few clicks at a time.
If for the sake of argument, an aftermarket 'race' shock has an adjustment range from 1-10, the range of adjustment on your stock shock may only cover the equivalent of 3-7, this stops people completely f**king things up. There are a number of people who can help set your bike up, but beware of anyone who claims to be able to send you a spec sheet through the post, or doesn't have you sat on the bike in all your riding gear. How can you measure/set preload on the shock (nothing to do with damping) if you're not with the bike at the time? You will need to make at least 2, possibly 3 clicks on the stock shocks to see a difference. Some people say go up 2 or 3 to see the difference, then back off one click, rather than go click by click.
If anyone has an MCN circuit guide, there is a good guide at the front of that which lets you know the effects of what's going on.
However, after speaking to some Ohlins technicians, they now say that due to tyre technoogy, rather than run a tiny amount of rear static sag on the race bikes (e.g. 5-15mm), they can run up to 35mm! This is of course done with all other settings optimised for the bike & rider.
Dependning on your riding style, you may want the front forks to be as plush as possible, and also using nearly all of their travel. A good way to check if the springs need upgrading is to put a zip tie around the base of the fork stanchions and see where the fork legs push it down to. I think you've got optimum springs if you are left with a zip tie about 10-15mm above the base of the fork bottom. Be aware though that most stock fork springs are 'progressive' (i.e. the pring rate increases as they compress). Race springs are normally linear in thier spring rates. Again, damping, in terms of oil wiweght, air gap, shim stacks, comp/rebound piston valving, only affects the rate of movement of the springs themselves.....
>> Edited by fergus on Monday 17th April 11:03
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