Talk me through slow riding

[fergus]

SplatSpeed said:

fergus said:

SplatSpeed said:

the more revs the better the gyroscopic effect

its a ballencing act between the three but just keep revs high

it's not your clutch and concentrate on clutch and brake balance

get throttle locked in one pesitsion jam your hand left and lock it there against the bars

to slow down try to reduce the clutch to speed up let it out slightly

slight drag from the brake

but most of all listern to the instructor

I don't think the gyroscopic argument is either accurate or relevant. You keep the revs up to make dragging the clutch easier and less likely to stall the engine.

tell my instructor that

plus on my fj1200 it works

Your instructor doesn't even sound as if they have a rudimentary understanding of physics, aka talking out of their ar5e.

Or, alternatively, why do *you* think there is any gyroscopic effect?

[711]

Buelligan 984 said:

As for the clutch, you don't simply hold the clutch at the bite point, you let it out a tiny bit to add power, dip it a bit to remove power.

Good point, I'd not meant to imply in my post that the clutch would be held in only one position throughout the manouvre.

I'd still say it's important to get the clutch to biting point as early as possible though, then it's at least in the right region (and thus one less thing to worry about) when you're concentrating on tipping the bike into the turn.

[Steve_T]

Lots of conflicting info some accurate, some not. To get through your test, listen to what your instructor tells you as this is the easiest way to pass the test. This will be a fixed throttle position, a fixed clutch position and your speed controlled with your back brake. This way all you need to do is steer and control your speed (oh, and balance ). The best way to steer without thinking about it is to look where you want to go. When you do your u-turn, look as far into the distance in your new intended direction as you can all the way through the turn. Initially this will be over your shoulder and then as you round the turn you will be looking off up the road into the distance. This will stop you riding into the curb on the other side of the road, which will happen when you fixate on it. Ask me how I know

Get your test done, and then as you ride more, your finesse at low speed will develop. You can use your front brake even at manoeuvre low speed, I now do this all the time, but I didn't when I was learning and of course you have to use it gently. When you're stopping using both brakes does improve your braking distance, although I tend to use the rear on a more discretionary basis these days rather than all the time.

Steve.

Edited by Steve_T on Tuesday 1st April 10:26

[SplatSpeed]

fergus said:

SplatSpeed said:

fergus said:

SplatSpeed said:

the more revs the better the gyroscopic effect

its a ballencing act between the three but just keep revs high

it's not your clutch and concentrate on clutch and brake balance

get throttle locked in one pesitsion jam your hand left and lock it there against the bars

to slow down try to reduce the clutch to speed up let it out slightly

slight drag from the brake

but most of all listern to the instructor

I don't think the gyroscopic argument is either accurate or relevant. You keep the revs up to make dragging the clutch easier and less likely to stall the engine.

tell my instructor that

plus on my fj1200 it works

Your instructor doesn't even sound as if they have a rudimentary understanding of physics, aka talking out of their ar5e.

Or, alternatively, why do *you* think there is any gyroscopic effect?

both my instructors said this

so take it up with them

makes the bike more stable as does changing down in corners

have you ever woundered why they don't mount engines long ways

also world war 1 fighters suffer greatly from this effect

ok a lot more mass

and i agree that a 125 diont have much but it all helps keeping the bike stable

[black-k1]

SplatSpeed said:

have you ever woundered why they don't mount engines long ways

You mean like BMW's, Goldwings, Guzzi's etc.?

That's more about not having to turn the power through 90deg. (Notice all above are shaft drive.)

Edited by black-k1 on Tuesday 1st April 11:13

[NeilBeforeZod]

A couple of further options you could try, if you have the time for practice.

Getting used to slow riding takes quite a bit of confidence. The bike will stay upright pretty much on its own once you get moving, but at walking pace you have to balance it. Getting to understand when and how the balance point shows up takes some time.

Try going from a comfy pace to as slow as you can go. You'll get to a point where you'll lose your balance. Once you do, immediately gas it and you should re-balance. Keep trying this until you get the balance speed slower and slower. You should get to a point where you need to slip the clutch and cover the back brake to go slow enough. Once you crack this, throw in some manoeuvres. You need to train yourself to gas it once it starts to fall out of balance and you can practice for ages without putting your feet down. It'll take time, but it worked for me.

Alternatively, if you have time and some space, get a trials bike. You soon get used to managing clutch, brake and throttle and keeping yourself on board. It's good fun too.

Practice, practice, practice.