£26.....Did you say £26 quid??????!!!!!
Discussion
Changing the oil/filter on the gixer so had to get said stuff. Went to a Suzuki dealer, and was asked ...
"What do you currently run in it"?
"Err, what"?
"What kind of oil"?
"How the hell would I know"
Th conversation then went on for 10 minutes rearging the 800 million types of oil and what they do.
Christ, it was worse than going into a Starbucks for a coffee.
Ended up with half synthetic, what ever the hell that means.
Would you know what you "run in it"??!!Edited to add....£26 fekin quid...for a bottle containing ( just run into kitchn to check) 4 litres of Yamalube 4 stroke semi-synthetic motor oil.
Well, for £26 I'd better be going a lot faster tomorrow, or it's going back!
"What do you currently run in it"?
"Err, what"?
"What kind of oil"?
"How the hell would I know"
Th conversation then went on for 10 minutes rearging the 800 million types of oil and what they do.
Christ, it was worse than going into a Starbucks for a coffee.
Ended up with half synthetic, what ever the hell that means.
Would you know what you "run in it"??!!Edited to add....£26 fekin quid...for a bottle containing ( just run into kitchn to check) 4 litres of Yamalube 4 stroke semi-synthetic motor oil.
Well, for £26 I'd better be going a lot faster tomorrow, or it's going back!
Edited by Chilli on Saturday 5th July 20:05
aeropilot said:
Chilli said:
Would you know what you "run in it"??!!
Too fookin right I would......I'm gobsmacked that any rider wouldn't....
In my experience, your average motorcyclist either knows or wants to know more about his/her machine's mechanicals than your average motorist wants to know about their car. I think it probably stems from the very "mechanical-ness" of bikes and that most owners are enthusiasts rather than just "users for transport". Cars have lots of bodywork covering the moving parts up.
On the subject of oil, I had a conversation with a couple of technical bods from Suzuki GB back when I worked for a suzuki dealer and ran a, new at the time, TL1000R. They were both of the opinion that the bike should use a good quality, bike specific semi-synthetic and I quote "use it as suzuki intended: let it warm up, ride it really hard, then service it at the correct intervals" and that was a philosophy I stuck with for a long time. Around the same time, many head-bangers were running fully synthetic oil in their Fireblades and such-like and then having problems with their wet clutches...
I'm not up to speed with the latest bikes but hope that the above helps.
On the subject of oil, I had a conversation with a couple of technical bods from Suzuki GB back when I worked for a suzuki dealer and ran a, new at the time, TL1000R. They were both of the opinion that the bike should use a good quality, bike specific semi-synthetic and I quote "use it as suzuki intended: let it warm up, ride it really hard, then service it at the correct intervals" and that was a philosophy I stuck with for a long time. Around the same time, many head-bangers were running fully synthetic oil in their Fireblades and such-like and then having problems with their wet clutches...
I'm not up to speed with the latest bikes but hope that the above helps.
Lot I just had my bike in for its service, and I havent the foggiest what oil they put in it, I goes to the main dealer as its under warranty. ( and this one was included in the price)
By contrast I can tell you exactly whats in the tuscan, where is was bought and how many running hours its been in the engine
mine you the tuscan does run on 20/40 mineral oil which is nice and cheap, but does get changed every 2-4 hours of running...
G
By contrast I can tell you exactly whats in the tuscan, where is was bought and how many running hours its been in the engine
mine you the tuscan does run on 20/40 mineral oil which is nice and cheap, but does get changed every 2-4 hours of running...G
You'd only know if you ever had to top it up or service it yourself. I've never had to top up the blade as it never uses any so if you take it in for servicing why would you need to know? Bit odd though... you'd imagine the dealer would know...
I'm running fully synth castrol and always have done. Am I a 'headbanger'?
I'm running fully synth castrol and always have done. Am I a 'headbanger'?
Edited by dern on Saturday 5th July 21:54
Chilli said:
for a bottle containing ( just run into kitchn to check) 4 litres of Yamalube 4 stroke semi-synthetic motor oil.
Well, for £26 I'd better be going a lot faster tomorrow, or it's going back!
Fooking 'ell! You put Yamalube in a Suzuki? Mate, Do NOT ride the bike until they've changed the oil to Gixlube or your engine will blow.Well, for £26 I'd better be going a lot faster tomorrow, or it's going back!
AndyDRZ said:
Chilli said:
for a bottle containing ( just run into kitchn to check) 4 litres of Yamalube 4 stroke semi-synthetic motor oil.
Well, for £26 I'd better be going a lot faster tomorrow, or it's going back!
Fooking 'ell! You put Yamalube in a Suzuki? Mate, Do NOT ride the bike until they've changed the oil to Gixlube or your engine will blow.Well, for £26 I'd better be going a lot faster tomorrow, or it's going back!
AndyDRZ said:
Chilli said:
for a bottle containing ( just run into kitchn to check) 4 litres of Yamalube 4 stroke semi-synthetic motor oil.
Well, for £26 I'd better be going a lot faster tomorrow, or it's going back!
Fooking 'ell! You put Yamalube in a Suzuki? Mate, Do NOT ride the bike until they've changed the oil to Gixlube or your engine will blow.Well, for £26 I'd better be going a lot faster tomorrow, or it's going back!
Oh, hang on I get ya.....P!ss off! I'd have shot round there in the morning and demanded 4l of ....Gix Lube
The benefits of Semi Synthetic are fast becoming a myth. Once upon a time it was a good way of getting better grade oil than minerals could offer compared to fully synthetics. There are now better mineral oils available that are equally as good as semi synthetics, and they are less expensive.
Run it on a good quality mineral oil for less cost, or pay for quality and use a fully synthetic.
However, you need to pay attention to what your manufacturer recommends where motorcycles are concerned running wet clutches sharing the same oil as the motor.
Not too many years ago Yamaha recommended (and their dealers sold) Mobil lubricants. For their super bikes Yamaha were recommending Mobil 1 fully synthetic, until it was realised some R1 owners were experiencing clutch slip. Some clutch plates containing Kevlar in the friction material are not compatible with fully synthetic oils. I can't say which clutch plates or which fully synthetics, but this is why it is necessary to follow manufacturers recommendations. This way, if a problem occurs you may have some form of recompense available through the manufacturer. Do your homework and research the product and compatibility is all.
Run it on a good quality mineral oil for less cost, or pay for quality and use a fully synthetic.
However, you need to pay attention to what your manufacturer recommends where motorcycles are concerned running wet clutches sharing the same oil as the motor.
Not too many years ago Yamaha recommended (and their dealers sold) Mobil lubricants. For their super bikes Yamaha were recommending Mobil 1 fully synthetic, until it was realised some R1 owners were experiencing clutch slip. Some clutch plates containing Kevlar in the friction material are not compatible with fully synthetic oils. I can't say which clutch plates or which fully synthetics, but this is why it is necessary to follow manufacturers recommendations. This way, if a problem occurs you may have some form of recompense available through the manufacturer. Do your homework and research the product and compatibility is all.
Edited by Rocket Pepper on Sunday 6th July 01:26
I know a lt of bikers who don't even know how to check their oil level, let alone what oil it is.
Personally I do all my own servicing except for valve clearances or deep engine work. I have in the past done engine rebuilds, but have better things to do with my time theses days, so would rather pay someone for anything that takes too long.
Oil, filter, plugs, clutch, cables, pads, discs, chains, sprockets, etc, I'll do myself though so I know it's been done properly.
Personally I do all my own servicing except for valve clearances or deep engine work. I have in the past done engine rebuilds, but have better things to do with my time theses days, so would rather pay someone for anything that takes too long.
Oil, filter, plugs, clutch, cables, pads, discs, chains, sprockets, etc, I'll do myself though so I know it's been done properly.
cuprabob said:
£26 is quite good, longlife oil for VAG cars is aound £15 per litre.
In my Gixxer I use Castrol fully synthetic oil which is around £30 for 4 litres from Halfrauds
£15 per litre for oil that the dealer probably bought for about £1.00 per litreIn my Gixxer I use Castrol fully synthetic oil which is around £30 for 4 litres from Halfrauds
When I used to work for a Mercedes dealership, we paid about 50p per litre for engine oil and sold it on to customers for about £7.00 per litre!!With regards bike oil, I find that Hein Gericke oil, made by Motul, is pretty good and only about £12.00 for 4 litres
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