Discussion
bhpjon said:
They do but they are stunning wheels, even though they are made of tinfoil and will double the weight of the car. ....
Before you go to stunning Spiders, may I suggest you start a thread on the Tuscan section, asking people to post their experiences about buckled wheels? From what I have read, the Cadbury's metal used to make Spiders is somewhat unsuited to use in a country where the roads consist of potholes linked by short stretches of tarmac. Just trying to save you heart- and wallet-ache. There are some similar wheels around that are less prone to buckling. I will dig out the thread discussing them in a moment.
Or, Have you considered SP12s? No need for the hub conversion. Pic on my profile.
QBee said:
bhpjon said:
They do but they are stunning wheels, even though they are made of tinfoil and will double the weight of the car. ....
Before you go to stunning Spiders, may I suggest you start a thread on the Tuscan section, asking people to post their experiences about buckled wheels? From what I have read, the Cadbury's metal used to make Spiders is somewhat unsuited to use in a country where the roads consist of potholes linked by short stretches of tarmac. Just trying to save you heart- and wallet-ache. There are some similar wheels around that are less prone to buckling. I will dig out the thread discussing them in a moment.
Or, Have you considered SP12s? No need for the hub conversion. Pic on my profile.
Our 5 stud hubs are basically original 4 stud hubs re-drilled to the correct 114.3 stud pattern, we then fit a larger diameter steel ring to the back which is drilled and fixed to the hub, longer wheel studs are then pressed into the hub from the back through the new steel ring.
The steel ring is fitted to increase the diameter of the standard hub which is only just big enough to drill the 5 stud pattern and so doesn't leave enough metal at the outer edge next to the studs.
The Granada hub is 112 pcd so entirely unsuitable, the T car hubs ie Jeep Cherokee are an entirely different bolt on hub/bearing assembly which are carried by alloy uprights entirely different from the Sierra Griff/Chim upright.
16" spider offsets are very close to standard Chimaera wheels so bolt straight on ie et26 front and et33 rear, 18s however are different ball game, the Tuscan ran an ET42 offset on the front and an ET33 on the rear, so the front wheel is totally wrong, much to inset, so when we fit 18s we use rear wheels all round and a billet machined 7mm spacer on the front to get the ET33 wheel back to ET26 thereby spreading the extra width of the (8.5" compared to 7"0) equally across the tyre footprint, you then need rack stops to reduce the lock so that the wheels don't foul the lower wishbone on full lock.
Correctly set up the cars will handle just as well as original, maybe a bit more bump steer on poor roads but much improved on good surfaces because of the lower profile tyres and extra width, we run 225/35/18s on the front and 255 or 265/35/18s on the rear.
All the comments about the quality of the spiders are true, you have really got to love the look of them (as I do!) but its an expensive route and there are much cheaper ways with better 4 stud wheels if you just want an upgrade, you have got to really want spiders to go this route!.
Not sure what the chalk and cheese comment was all about Dave?
The steel ring is fitted to increase the diameter of the standard hub which is only just big enough to drill the 5 stud pattern and so doesn't leave enough metal at the outer edge next to the studs.
The Granada hub is 112 pcd so entirely unsuitable, the T car hubs ie Jeep Cherokee are an entirely different bolt on hub/bearing assembly which are carried by alloy uprights entirely different from the Sierra Griff/Chim upright.
16" spider offsets are very close to standard Chimaera wheels so bolt straight on ie et26 front and et33 rear, 18s however are different ball game, the Tuscan ran an ET42 offset on the front and an ET33 on the rear, so the front wheel is totally wrong, much to inset, so when we fit 18s we use rear wheels all round and a billet machined 7mm spacer on the front to get the ET33 wheel back to ET26 thereby spreading the extra width of the (8.5" compared to 7"0) equally across the tyre footprint, you then need rack stops to reduce the lock so that the wheels don't foul the lower wishbone on full lock.
Correctly set up the cars will handle just as well as original, maybe a bit more bump steer on poor roads but much improved on good surfaces because of the lower profile tyres and extra width, we run 225/35/18s on the front and 255 or 265/35/18s on the rear.
All the comments about the quality of the spiders are true, you have really got to love the look of them (as I do!) but its an expensive route and there are much cheaper ways with better 4 stud wheels if you just want an upgrade, you have got to really want spiders to go this route!.
Not sure what the chalk and cheese comment was all about Dave?
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