Bleeding Radiator
Discussion
Steve Heath gives details for both types of engine in his book 'The TVR Griffith & Chimaera'. Both methods should be done with engine cold and heater controls on apparently.
"Pre Serpentine:
1. Remove blue pressure cap on swirl pot.
2. Fill it to the top.
3. Slacken the rad bleed screw, located at top of rad on one of the rad's sides.
4. When the level in swirl pot drops, tighten the rad bleed screw.
5. Top up the swirl pot to 1.5" below the screw thread & replace cap.
Post-Serpentine:
1. Remove screw cap on the swirl tank.
2. Remove blue expansion tank pressure cap & half-fill with coolant & replace cap.
3. Fill swirl pot to top of the thread.
4. Slacken the rad bleed screw.
5. When the level in the swirl pot drops, tighten the rad screw.
6. Top up swirl pot to top of thread & replace cap.
>> Edited by wolosp on Thursday 11th July 20:15
"Pre Serpentine:
1. Remove blue pressure cap on swirl pot.
2. Fill it to the top.
3. Slacken the rad bleed screw, located at top of rad on one of the rad's sides.
4. When the level in swirl pot drops, tighten the rad bleed screw.
5. Top up the swirl pot to 1.5" below the screw thread & replace cap.
Post-Serpentine:
1. Remove screw cap on the swirl tank.
2. Remove blue expansion tank pressure cap & half-fill with coolant & replace cap.
3. Fill swirl pot to top of the thread.
4. Slacken the rad bleed screw.
5. When the level in the swirl pot drops, tighten the rad screw.
6. Top up swirl pot to top of thread & replace cap.
>> Edited by wolosp on Thursday 11th July 20:15
Even then keep an eye on levels in the header tank. I've just had my rad recored, and since then I've had to refill the header tank (to half-way) twice because it was empty! No obvious leak anywhere so I imagine it's just the final air bubbles coming out. It took 2 longish jouneys to do it though.
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