Discussion
'I may try to relocate it to the inner wing though when not in use to prevent burning my hands off when hot.'
Ah, the Griff bonnet stay - my favourite bugbear! Let me know you get on - I would very much like to re-do mine with a small bracket araldited under the bonnet (near the current coathanger arrangement) with one of those small ball-joint thingies connected to a s/s rod running down vertically to just behind the header tank. All designed, just can't source the bits.
Ah, the Griff bonnet stay - my favourite bugbear! Let me know you get on - I would very much like to re-do mine with a small bracket araldited under the bonnet (near the current coathanger arrangement) with one of those small ball-joint thingies connected to a s/s rod running down vertically to just behind the header tank. All designed, just can't source the bits.
Be careful if you use steel for the stay. The original aluminium item flexes as the bonnet clips down, because it just fouls the pipe from the coolant header tank. I suggest that you make the stay slightly shorter than the original, to stop the rear of the bonnet crushing the nearside wiper blade so much! You may also consider applying some self adhesive plasticard to the top of the nearside inner wing to prevent the end of the bonnet stay from trashing the label, paint and fibreglass...in that order!
The cure for hot bonnet stay as detailed in the bible is to whip some cotton string for several inches along the stay. The string does not conduct heat and you can grab it without burning you fingers.
For those "Max Power" addicts out there I'm sure there will be a stylised aluminium version in the not to distant future...
Steve
For those "Max Power" addicts out there I'm sure there will be a stylised aluminium version in the not to distant future...
Steve
quote:
The cure for hot bonnet stay as detailed in the bible is to whip some cotton string for several inches along the stay. The string does not conduct heat and you can grab it without burning you fingers
And a well done common whipping will gain you much kudos with sailors.
(No, I don't think I will re-phrase that.)
'Be careful if you use steel for the stay. The original aluminium item flexes as the bonnet clips down, because it just fouls the pipe from the coolant header tank.'
It shouldn't foul anything. The original stay has a slight bend in so it clears the swirlpot as the bonnet slides forwards. I discovered that the hard way when, as a new owner, I thought - 'Hmm, that's bent, I'll straighten it' - then had to re-bend it as it went clonk on the way down!
It shouldn't foul anything. The original stay has a slight bend in so it clears the swirlpot as the bonnet slides forwards. I discovered that the hard way when, as a new owner, I thought - 'Hmm, that's bent, I'll straighten it' - then had to re-bend it as it went clonk on the way down!
i took mine to a local engineering shop and had one re-made out of solid ally. cost bout £30-00!
can't use steel as it is too heavy for the clip (if still using the stick on type. it will also oxidize and look cr*p!
if the pole is shaped corrctly and mounted the right way up! it will follow the line of the bonnet and clear all parts.
i also had the end that goes through the bonnet locating shaft threaded for the last 20mm to M10 or 8 and secured in postion to look and work correctly
is now fine, strong and silent!
andy griff 500
can't use steel as it is too heavy for the clip (if still using the stick on type. it will also oxidize and look cr*p!
if the pole is shaped corrctly and mounted the right way up! it will follow the line of the bonnet and clear all parts.
i also had the end that goes through the bonnet locating shaft threaded for the last 20mm to M10 or 8 and secured in postion to look and work correctly
is now fine, strong and silent!
andy griff 500
sorry don't have technology!
but it looks just like standard item except that it is solid - not hollow.
the threaded part into bonnet hinge is hidden but basically you thread it 20mm, put a nut and washer on, pass it thro the bonnet hinge and put on another washer and nut.lock them against each other.
as i say it looks just like the original, ( still flexes slightly because of the bend to follow the bonnet ) but it's nice and secure under there and doesn't rattle and bend embarassingly when showing of ya pride and joy!
but it looks just like standard item except that it is solid - not hollow.
the threaded part into bonnet hinge is hidden but basically you thread it 20mm, put a nut and washer on, pass it thro the bonnet hinge and put on another washer and nut.lock them against each other.
as i say it looks just like the original, ( still flexes slightly because of the bend to follow the bonnet ) but it's nice and secure under there and doesn't rattle and bend embarassingly when showing of ya pride and joy!
'if the pole is shaped corrctly and mounted the right way up! it will follow the line of the bonnet and clear all parts.'
Good point. It must be gravity and vibration that make it rotate so the bent end scrapes on the nearside wing. Twist it round 180 degrees and, as you say, the bend in the stay goes up instead of down and the little bend at the end doesn't bounce up and down on the wing.
Not sure how you put it through the 'bonnet hinge' though - what do you mean by bonnet hinge?
Good point. It must be gravity and vibration that make it rotate so the bent end scrapes on the nearside wing. Twist it round 180 degrees and, as you say, the bend in the stay goes up instead of down and the little bend at the end doesn't bounce up and down on the wing.
Not sure how you put it through the 'bonnet hinge' though - what do you mean by bonnet hinge?
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