888/887 calipers
Discussion
Does look like you have a 278 or 283 rotor up front and 273 rotor on the rear.
This is the set up I'll be running on Samy which will be used on regular trackdays. If you're looking for a brake improvement the cheapest option is (assuming the servo and master cylinder are in good shape) to change the brake fluid and then fit some fast road brake pads. Ferrodo 2500 are very well regarded but expensive. EBC green stuff pads are the fast road ones I think which are the next recommended.
I use DOT 5.1 brake fluid.
I think you may find doing the above a sufficient improvement. You also have the option of groved or drilled rotors but these are pretty expensive. Perhaps money would be better put towards a 4 pot caliper upgrade at the front.
This is the set up I'll be running on Samy which will be used on regular trackdays. If you're looking for a brake improvement the cheapest option is (assuming the servo and master cylinder are in good shape) to change the brake fluid and then fit some fast road brake pads. Ferrodo 2500 are very well regarded but expensive. EBC green stuff pads are the fast road ones I think which are the next recommended.
I use DOT 5.1 brake fluid.
I think you may find doing the above a sufficient improvement. You also have the option of groved or drilled rotors but these are pretty expensive. Perhaps money would be better put towards a 4 pot caliper upgrade at the front.
mk1fan said:
Does look like you have a 278 or 283 rotor up front and 273 rotor on the rear.
This is the set up I'll be running on Samy which will be used on regular trackdays. If you're looking for a brake improvement the cheapest option is (assuming the servo and master cylinder are in good shape) to change the brake fluid and then fit some fast road brake pads. Ferrodo 2500 are very well regarded but expensive. EBC green stuff pads are the fast road ones I think which are the next recommended.
I use DOT 5.1 brake fluid.
I think you may find doing the above a sufficient improvement. You also have the option of groved or drilled rotors but these are pretty expensive. Perhaps money would be better put towards a 4 pot caliper upgrade at the front.
EBC green stuff are for lower powered cars like hot hatch backs .You need red or Yellow.This is the set up I'll be running on Samy which will be used on regular trackdays. If you're looking for a brake improvement the cheapest option is (assuming the servo and master cylinder are in good shape) to change the brake fluid and then fit some fast road brake pads. Ferrodo 2500 are very well regarded but expensive. EBC green stuff pads are the fast road ones I think which are the next recommended.
I use DOT 5.1 brake fluid.
I think you may find doing the above a sufficient improvement. You also have the option of groved or drilled rotors but these are pretty expensive. Perhaps money would be better put towards a 4 pot caliper upgrade at the front.
I think it depends the type of driving someone is intending to do. Given most hot hatches on sale today have more power than most Chims or Grifs even based on TVRs optimistic claimed outputs then Greenstuff should be more than adequate for a road car doing the odd trackday.
I've not had issue on trackdays with oem pads and drums.
TVRs aren't heavy cars and there's only so much braking force you can put through the tyres.
I will be fitting Greenstuff all round as, having read the manufacturer's details, I think these best suit my needs.
Personally, quality pads are just a component part. Clean, quality fluid in a working system is just as important.
I've not had issue on trackdays with oem pads and drums.
TVRs aren't heavy cars and there's only so much braking force you can put through the tyres.
I will be fitting Greenstuff all round as, having read the manufacturer's details, I think these best suit my needs.
Personally, quality pads are just a component part. Clean, quality fluid in a working system is just as important.
mk1fan said:
I think it depends the type of driving someone is intending to do. Given most hot hatches on sale today have more power than most Chims or Grifs even based on TVRs optimistic claimed outputs then Greenstuff should be more than adequate for a road car doing the odd trackday.
I've not had issue on trackdays with oem pads and drums.
TVRs aren't heavy cars and there's only so much braking force you can put through the tyres.
I will be fitting Greenstuff all round as, having read the manufacturer's details, I think these best suit my needs.
Personally, quality pads are just a component part. Clean, quality fluid in a working system is just as important.
Well when I contacted Demon Tweaks they told me Green stuff are not recommended and i should go for red for fast road and track days .I've not had issue on trackdays with oem pads and drums.
TVRs aren't heavy cars and there's only so much braking force you can put through the tyres.
I will be fitting Greenstuff all round as, having read the manufacturer's details, I think these best suit my needs.
Personally, quality pads are just a component part. Clean, quality fluid in a working system is just as important.
IIRC the Redstuff pads need to have some temperature for the to work efficiently. Great for track, bad for the road.
As I said before, best read the manufacturer's information and pick the ones that best suit the type of driving you intend to do.
Personally, I wouldn't use Redstuff pads on a road car as they'll be inefficient until they get warmed up.
I currently have standard OEM pads and have no issues during 25-min track sessions in either Tamy or Samy.
As I said before, best read the manufacturer's information and pick the ones that best suit the type of driving you intend to do.
Personally, I wouldn't use Redstuff pads on a road car as they'll be inefficient until they get warmed up.
I currently have standard OEM pads and have no issues during 25-min track sessions in either Tamy or Samy.
^That, it's all about the compound being right for the use that you intend, nothing to do with the power of the car. Greens are a bit pants though if you're going to spend much time on track and you'll probably spend half the day in the pits waiting for them to cool down, I'd go for at least yellow and just change my road driving to remember that they would be a bit iffy if I hadn't touched the brake for 5 minutes, only really happens on the motorway doesn't it..
EBC are dusty though, pay the extra for DS2500 and recoup that money by not having to wash the car so often
EBC are dusty though, pay the extra for DS2500 and recoup that money by not having to wash the car so often
SILICONEKID345HP said:
EBC green stuff are for lower powered cars like hot hatch backs .You need red or Yellow.
Slightly more informative colour explanation... phillpot said:
Slightly more informative colour explanation...
For road use i would go for the black stuff or a decent quality OE pad .It would be impossible to over heat a standard pad on the road .This fast road thing people talk about is total rubbish ,where can you drive on the road fast with aggressive braking ?More standard the pad better they brake from cold .
davelittlewood said:
My Chimp's going for chassis refurb next month so no better time for a brake upgrade.
I've spent hours looking for some 888/887 for fleabay and the rest of the net but no luck.
Is there a full list of all the Fords that these were fitted to or some magical search term I need?
http://www.rv8r.co.uk/brakeupgrade.htmlI've spent hours looking for some 888/887 for fleabay and the rest of the net but no luck.
Is there a full list of all the Fords that these were fitted to or some magical search term I need?
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Edited by SILICONEKID345HP on Sunday 25th January 20:40
carsy said:
......I believe they were also fitted to some Mondeo`s. Not sure which tho.
Brakes Int. have them listed as one of two types used on Mondeo 2.6 V6 1993-2000 Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff