Oil pressure??
Discussion
Motul are high quality oils but if this is what your using I’m not sure it’s a good choice for a road car.
https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-866-motul-300v-le-man...
https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-866-motul-300v-le-man...
Originally these engines back in the 60s would be given 20/50 as there was little choice then. My Rover Sd1s would be considered good if they reached 120,00 miles with no oil burning or loss of performance. We've moved on and the additives and detergents all help to prolong engine life. I'm in full agreement with ClassicChim that 10/40 is all you need if you buy a quality brand. Powers insisted that I only used 10/40 semi synthetic to maintain the warranty after the engine rebuild (15/40 during running in for 1,500 miles). I spoke to Dom personally and he said that my choice of Shell Helix 10/40 was perfectly good. I ran it on this oil for the warranty period and the oil pressure is still exactly the same.
If the engine is worn and high mileage then by all means a thicker oil may give a higher oil pressure reading on the gauge which will make you feel better!
If the engine is worn and high mileage then by all means a thicker oil may give a higher oil pressure reading on the gauge which will make you feel better!
Belle427 said:
Motul are high quality oils but if this is what your using I’m not sure it’s a good choice for a road car.
https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-866-motul-300v-le-man...
That what i m talking about but this oil is totally compatible with a street us and i jept a 200hp/lite engine more 150'000miles without any trouble...this car also transformed some other of my atmo high revs car (running smoooother, more hp). It is highly recommended with some high perfs cars and many tuners ask to always keep 300v (purple oils amd a few others are good but hard to find). https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-866-motul-300v-le-man...
Esther base is tiptop and very temp resistant. The only think is that the detergeant effect is smaller (less of them) and that the only thing make my think to maybe swap it for a less extrem oil for this specific engine due to his conception (they should call it dirty pig 1).
For the thickness i was really wondering and saw that a lot of different opinions are there!
Thanks!
N7GTX said:
Originally these engines back in the 60s would be given 20/50 as there was little choice then. My Rover Sd1s would be considered good if they reached 120,00 miles with no oil burning or loss of performance. We've moved on and the additives and detergents all help to prolong engine life. I'm in full agreement with ClassicChim that 10/40 is all you need if you buy a quality brand. Powers insisted that I only used 10/40 semi synthetic to maintain the warranty after the engine rebuild (15/40 during running in for 1,500 miles). I spoke to Dom personally and he said that my choice of Shell Helix 10/40 was perfectly good. I ran it on this oil for the warranty period and the oil pressure is still exactly the same.
If the engine is worn and high mileage then by all means a thicker oil may give a higher oil pressure reading on the gauge which will make you feel better!
Thx for all these precision...so it s seems i m a bit thick i ll dilute it time after time...i dont have any fonctionnal gauge so i dont do it to give any illusion If the engine is worn and high mileage then by all means a thicker oil may give a higher oil pressure reading on the gauge which will make you feel better!
Thanks again
Classic Chim said:
Hi, I’m no expert sadly!
If Powers performance recommend 10/40 semi synthetic on rebuilt engines offering long warranties I’ll listen to them
If your engine runs ok and you don’t have any noise or cooling issues then it’s probably ok to leave it in there. I have no experience of the oil you mention.
These engines are very tolerant and originally used thicker oils so if your not revving it at High revs for long periods I can’t see how it will damage the engine.
Modern oils lubricate better regardless
My point was just about flow rate over pressure, clearly heavier oils will produce more pressure but that doesn’t automatically mean better lubrication and can cause less flow getting to the bearings but if the engines worn in so to speak then tolerances will likely be slightly bigger so thicker oils might well help to some extent.
But if this was the case then I’d expect the big engine builders to be using it but as far as I’m aware or at least Powers Performance still recommend 10/40
I decided to add more 20/50 on one oil change, I noticed it was slower and made more noise when starting up, that’s all about resistance and flow rate as the moment I thinned the oil by draining half of it away and adding more 10/40 it ran better and made less noise.
Personally if it’s changed every 3/4000 miles I doubt it makes any real difference but flow rate does concern me which is why I mentioned it. High revs and slow flow is very bad news for crank bearings. Most engine wear occurs before oil has heated up so using a thicker oil might be worse rather than better, just my humble opinion and something worth considering.
Ok thx a lot! I ll avoid high rpm the more i can. I ll go a bit less thick next time!If Powers performance recommend 10/40 semi synthetic on rebuilt engines offering long warranties I’ll listen to them
If your engine runs ok and you don’t have any noise or cooling issues then it’s probably ok to leave it in there. I have no experience of the oil you mention.
These engines are very tolerant and originally used thicker oils so if your not revving it at High revs for long periods I can’t see how it will damage the engine.
Modern oils lubricate better regardless
My point was just about flow rate over pressure, clearly heavier oils will produce more pressure but that doesn’t automatically mean better lubrication and can cause less flow getting to the bearings but if the engines worn in so to speak then tolerances will likely be slightly bigger so thicker oils might well help to some extent.
But if this was the case then I’d expect the big engine builders to be using it but as far as I’m aware or at least Powers Performance still recommend 10/40
I decided to add more 20/50 on one oil change, I noticed it was slower and made more noise when starting up, that’s all about resistance and flow rate as the moment I thinned the oil by draining half of it away and adding more 10/40 it ran better and made less noise.
Personally if it’s changed every 3/4000 miles I doubt it makes any real difference but flow rate does concern me which is why I mentioned it. High revs and slow flow is very bad news for crank bearings. Most engine wear occurs before oil has heated up so using a thicker oil might be worse rather than better, just my humble opinion and something worth considering.
Thx to this forum, i have been a lot less well threated on other pretencious forums with my stupid questions...
Belle427 said:
Motul are high quality oils but if this is what your using I’m not sure it’s a good choice for a road car.
https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-866-motul-300v-le-man...
Hi everybody,https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-866-motul-300v-le-man...
Maybe it is only due to the thicker oil (or that my genius hands get on this hood) but my oil cosumption fall from normal 1l/1000km to a 0ml/1000km from the insrant i get 300v in it (as my tree last car on 300v did...)...
Maybe somedoy want to give it a try to confirm or infirm it...
Belle427 said:
That’s good news then, it’s not a popular oil in the uk but it’s very high quality.
I dont know if i should give some links but your are at 5 liter for 55€ (i also buy it from the international and the shipping is more than correct). If there is no oil consumption it will be far cheaper than buying anything else.Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff