Heat wraping exh manifolds
Discussion
Right, I want to try & reduce the roasting me totsies get & am thinking about using some heat wrap on the exhaust mainfolds.
Bit worried that it might cause warping of the manifolds/cat 'y' piece etc due to uneven heat distribution.
Has anyone done it, did it work to reduce footwell heat & has it caused any problems?
Bit worried that it might cause warping of the manifolds/cat 'y' piece etc due to uneven heat distribution.
Has anyone done it, did it work to reduce footwell heat & has it caused any problems?
rather than wrapping, i had some stainless steel heat shields made to stop the heat radiating to the inner wings etc.
it worked and i also have cool air coming through the air ducts now, as it is no longer heated by the inner wings! so car is cooler anyway.
it also stops the acrid smell experienced by early griffs, again caused by heat soak to inner wings.
this was done two years ago and is still working well
as a thought on wrapping (via steve heath) if the manfolds are not cooling the exhaust gasses as normal, they will be hotter thru the cat and pipes etc. as these are all round the car the heat effect just moves and may cause damage or same effect further down the exhaust - just a note - as i would imagine most heat will move thru and out the back. but it may affect the cat.
it worked and i also have cool air coming through the air ducts now, as it is no longer heated by the inner wings! so car is cooler anyway.
it also stops the acrid smell experienced by early griffs, again caused by heat soak to inner wings.
this was done two years ago and is still working well
as a thought on wrapping (via steve heath) if the manfolds are not cooling the exhaust gasses as normal, they will be hotter thru the cat and pipes etc. as these are all round the car the heat effect just moves and may cause damage or same effect further down the exhaust - just a note - as i would imagine most heat will move thru and out the back. but it may affect the cat.
I did it to my year 2000 Chimaera 450 about 1.5 years ago & have had no warping (yet). I wrapped purely the manifolds up to the join with the centre "Y" piece. In my experience, it reduces under-bonnet heat, cuts down footwell heat & brings the engine water temp down by about 5degrees C.
It's also sometimes possible to sit in traffic without the fan needing to come on (although not the case if I've just been caning it though
)
Don't know about the cats, as I haven't had an MOT yet, but I would imagine if anything, that they just start to work quicker.
I also got a starter motor heatshield at the same time, as a preventative measure
cheers,
Craig
It's also sometimes possible to sit in traffic without the fan needing to come on (although not the case if I've just been caning it though
) Don't know about the cats, as I haven't had an MOT yet, but I would imagine if anything, that they just start to work quicker.
I also got a starter motor heatshield at the same time, as a preventative measure
cheers,
Craig
quote:
Right, I want to try & reduce the roasting me totsies get & am thinking about using some heat wrap on the exhaust mainfolds.
Bit worried that it might cause warping of the manifolds/cat 'y' piece etc due to uneven heat distribution.
Has anyone done it, did it work to reduce footwell heat & has it caused any problems?
Go for it, keeps things a lot colder under the bonnet. The only 'problem' is it muffles the exhaust noises so the engine sounds quieter from inside the car.
Had my manifolds cearmic coated inside and out. That dropped the temperature significantly and the engine ran smoother. Only problem was it cost £265. Still it looks the dogs!
Was advised against wrapping exhausts by many x-spurts as they said it increases the speead at which they corrode. This has been borne out by mates with Kit Cars who have done it and found that their manifolds have disintegrated beneath the covering.
Richard
Was advised against wrapping exhausts by many x-spurts as they said it increases the speead at which they corrode. This has been borne out by mates with Kit Cars who have done it and found that their manifolds have disintegrated beneath the covering.
Richard
quote:
Had my manifolds cearmic coated inside and out. That dropped the temperature significantly and the engine ran smoother. Only problem was it cost £265. Still it looks the dogs!
Was advised against wrapping exhausts by many x-spurts as they said it increases the speead at which they corrode. This has been borne out by mates with Kit Cars who have done it and found that their manifolds have disintegrated beneath the covering.
Richard
In a controlled experiment
, I wrapped my exhaust manifolds at 30k miles, and eventually had to replace them at 100k miles because of corrosion. This meant they lasted longer than average.quote:Do you have any details of where and how you go that done? Did you dismantle the manifolds and have them coated? How old was the car when you had it done?
Had my manifolds ceramic coated inside and out. That dropped the temperature significantly and the engine ran smoother. Only problem was it cost £265. Still it looks the dogs!
MC
sorry - not got the technology, must get round to buying a digicam
the plates are stainless steel and are curved to follow the manifold
they are mounted on stainless jubilee clips with stainless bolts mounted thru the clips at 10 & 2 o'clock resp.
the standard inner heat sheild for the a/c belt was also replaced and a similar one fitted to the other exhaust to protect the alternator ( and match the other side).
this means that all the fittings are hidden behind the plates at the front so they look ok
they are about 8mm off the manifold drastically restricting the radiant heat affecting the bodywork.
andyr
the plates are stainless steel and are curved to follow the manifold
they are mounted on stainless jubilee clips with stainless bolts mounted thru the clips at 10 & 2 o'clock resp.
the standard inner heat sheild for the a/c belt was also replaced and a similar one fitted to the other exhaust to protect the alternator ( and match the other side).
this means that all the fittings are hidden behind the plates at the front so they look ok
they are about 8mm off the manifold drastically restricting the radiant heat affecting the bodywork.
andyr
leadfoot
if your fans are running all the time, put waterwetter or radiator relief - similar - in tour cooling system. it'll drop the temp by 5 - 10 degrees which will hopefully keep the car out of the fans.
only helps engine temp - not interior.
i've used water wetter in mine for 2-3 years and it does work
plenty of threads on this inc web links
andyr
if your fans are running all the time, put waterwetter or radiator relief - similar - in tour cooling system. it'll drop the temp by 5 - 10 degrees which will hopefully keep the car out of the fans.
only helps engine temp - not interior.
i've used water wetter in mine for 2-3 years and it does work
plenty of threads on this inc web links
andyr
so where do i get water wetter from as i find the engine gets very hot sat on the m25 in the usual jams and the fans running all the time it sits at about 90/92 degrees which seems hot to me ,and where can i get some exhaust wrap to help cool things down a bit. this is the only annoying thing i find with the TVR.
quote:
so where do i get water wetter from as i find the engine gets very hot sat on the m25 in the usual jams and the fans running all the time it sits at about 90/92 degrees which seems hot to me ,and where can i get some exhaust wrap to help cool things down a bit. this is the only annoying thing i find with the TVR.
90-92 while sitting is when the ECU starts to adapt its settings. If the car is overcooled and never reaches them, you run on default settings which may or may not be the best for the car.
Did my hottest ever track day at Hethel where it was around 30-32 ambient. On the track the temp reached 105 where I slowed down and cooled the car off. I took the front number plate off and the temp stayed at 100 during the next sessions. I was giving the car a good going and everything was fine. On the way back, temp stayed at 80 when moving and 90 when stopped with the plate back on.
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
I too am intrested in this.. any chance of some contact details.
quote:
quote:Do you have any details of where and how you go that done? Did you dismantle the manifolds and have them coated? How old was the car when you had it done?
Had my manifolds ceramic coated inside and out. That dropped the temperature significantly and the engine ran smoother. Only problem was it cost £265. Still it looks the dogs!
MC
Company that did the work was Camcoat in Gt Yarmouth.
Garage said the manifolds, etc were put in a vibrating machine (TVR then!) and all the old crap removed. They were then coated and baked.
Anybody want photos can e-mail them. Can get the number if you are interested. Garage do loads of high performnce stuff (much of it turbocharged) so they seem to do a fair bit of business with them.
Richard
Garage said the manifolds, etc were put in a vibrating machine (TVR then!) and all the old crap removed. They were then coated and baked.
Anybody want photos can e-mail them. Can get the number if you are interested. Garage do loads of high performnce stuff (much of it turbocharged) so they seem to do a fair bit of business with them.
Richard
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