Mmmm, new hinges........
Discussion
Really good idea actually...the times I'd have taken off the bonnet to make access easier if I'd have had those!
I did change my hinges and rose joints as the old ones were shot...but it was a pain re-aligning it all, so I tend to leave it alone.
How much did they set you back if you don't mind me asking?
I did change my hinges and rose joints as the old ones were shot...but it was a pain re-aligning it all, so I tend to leave it alone.
How much did they set you back if you don't mind me asking?
Edited by PhilH42 on Thursday 24th November 18:22
I think with the poor exchange rate they were about,........................say it quietly...............£150.00
Check out their website.
http://vtautomotive.com/
Check out their website.
http://vtautomotive.com/
They are pretty awesome, the ones on my project are in shocking order.
Whilst on the hinge subject, one of mine has broken out of the bonnet and needs attention.
I've read various methods of repair on here which are interesting. Is it worth repairing or easier to bite the bullet and replace hinge box panel with the one from TET?
Whilst on the hinge subject, one of mine has broken out of the bonnet and needs attention.
I've read various methods of repair on here which are interesting. Is it worth repairing or easier to bite the bullet and replace hinge box panel with the one from TET?
phazed said:
I think with the poor exchange rate they were about,........................say it quietly...............£150.00
Check out their website.
http://vtautomotive.com/
HOW fCheck out their website.
http://vtautomotive.com/
kING MUCH, stone me! Am I looking at these wrong, they look like they'll be difficult to fit the bonnet as a one man operation.
ProjectChimaera said:
They are pretty awesome, the ones on my project are in shocking order.
Whilst on the hinge subject, one of mine has broken out of the bonnet and needs attention.
I've read various methods of repair on here which are interesting. Is it worth repairing or easier to bite the bullet and replace hinge box panel with the one from TET?
One of mine was all over the shop...fibreglassed it back in with plenty of resin....its been ok since.Whilst on the hinge subject, one of mine has broken out of the bonnet and needs attention.
I've read various methods of repair on here which are interesting. Is it worth repairing or easier to bite the bullet and replace hinge box panel with the one from TET?
ClassiChimi said:
phazed said:
I think with the poor exchange rate they were about,........................say it quietly...............£150.00
Check out their website.
http://vtautomotive.com/
HOW fCheck out their website.
http://vtautomotive.com/
kING MUCH, stone me! Am I looking at these wrong, they look like they'll be difficult to fit the bonnet as a one man operation.
ClassiChimi said:
My O/S one is very loose. Do you have any pics of how you did it.
Cheers
Cheers
No pics I'm afraid...I really need to get with it when it comes to photographing jobs, I'm hopeless.
But yes one side of mine was very wobbly...its tricky but you have to remove the rose and stuff the hole around the stud with fibre, just enough to stop the resin running inside ( you need it to go in the hole obviously but not just run through). Make sure you centre the bolt, bonnet on its side and use putty (at least that's what I used..plumbers mait actually) to mound around it to help contain the resin until it cures, if that makes sense?! Make the resin strong...by that I mean plenty of hardener and wait until its just starting to go off before applying.....too early and it runs like a b***h, too long and your sticks stuck
Use the mixing stick to apply carefully initially to make sure the stud is well surrounded with resin and then pour. Get the timing right and its a quick process and neat.
Hope that helps.
Edited by PhilH42 on Thursday 24th November 23:26
phazed said:
I think with the poor exchange rate they were about,........................say it quietly...............£150.00
Check out their website.
http://vtautomotive.com/
Never come across this site...interesting.Check out their website.
http://vtautomotive.com/
[quote=Matthew Poxon]Quality, limited production parts will always be expensive especially with the added brexit tax on imports.
They do look good.[/quote/)
If l were to make these on bridgeport milling machine at work your probably looking at 2 days work . There is alot of milling on there especially if its stainless round bar being milled into square.
If l were to make them bespoke like these l would be looking at the same price.
Unfortunately that's the problem with some TVR owners they want to try and do things on the cheap, IMHO. And bodge a repair rather than do a proper job that Peter has done.
They do look good.[/quote/)
If l were to make these on bridgeport milling machine at work your probably looking at 2 days work . There is alot of milling on there especially if its stainless round bar being milled into square.
If l were to make them bespoke like these l would be looking at the same price.
Unfortunately that's the problem with some TVR owners they want to try and do things on the cheap, IMHO. And bodge a repair rather than do a proper job that Peter has done
.Where as a meter of 304 stainless box section is about £20 and £5 a rose joint. For the price I'm certain that's not how they made them and they're definitely high quality, it's just that I would be all over a lower quality version at a cheaper price. Not everything has to be made out of unicorn dust and put together by Michelangelo for me, mines a £15k car not a £150k one.
I like them a lot and I understand the exchange rate, I'm just way too much of a tight arse to hand over that much.
I like them a lot and I understand the exchange rate, I'm just way too much of a tight arse to hand over that much.
PhilH42 said:
No pics I'm afraid...I really need to get with it when it comes to photographing jobs, I'm hopeless.
But yes one side of mine was very wobbly...its tricky but you have to remove the rose and stuff the hole around the stud with fibre, just enough to stop the resin running inside ( you need it to go in the hole obviously but not just run through). Make sure you centre the bolt, bonnet on its side and use putty (at least that's what I used..plumbers mait actually) to mound around it to help contain the resin until it cures, if that makes sense?! Make the resin strong...by that I mean plenty of hardener and wait until its just starting to go off before applying.....too early and it runs like a b***h, too long and your sticks stuck
Use the mixing stick to apply carefully initially to make sure the stud is well surrounded with resin and then pour. Get the timing right and its a quick process and neat.
Hope that helps.
Edited by PhilH42 on Thursday 24th November 23:26
ClassiChimi said:
PhilH42 said:
No pics I'm afraid...I really need to get with it when it comes to photographing jobs, I'm hopeless.
But yes one side of mine was very wobbly...its tricky but you have to remove the rose and stuff the hole around the stud with fibre, just enough to stop the resin running inside ( you need it to go in the hole obviously but not just run through). Make sure you centre the bolt, bonnet on its side and use putty (at least that's what I used..plumbers mait actually) to mound around it to help contain the resin until it cures, if that makes sense?! Make the resin strong...by that I mean plenty of hardener and wait until its just starting to go off before applying.....too early and it runs like a b***h, too long and your sticks stuck
Use the mixing stick to apply carefully initially to make sure the stud is well surrounded with resin and then pour. Get the timing right and its a quick process and neat.
Hope that helps.
Edited by PhilH42 on Thursday 24th November 23:26
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