Chimaera Project
Discussion
I think on the Griff' the connecting pipe to the filler neck is formed to a kinked shape and not straight as on the Chim', that's about the only difference, so aligning the two is not so much of a problem. If I push my tank up against the bulkhead the filler pipe is not aligned and the fouling of the chassis fixing in the tank dimple.
So on your car the the bottom edge of the tank nearest the rear of the car is showing a small gap between it and the boot floor?
I'll get back to this issue after the weekend, so thanks for posting.
Lance
So on your car the the bottom edge of the tank nearest the rear of the car is showing a small gap between it and the boot floor?
I'll get back to this issue after the weekend, so thanks for posting.
Lance
Thanks for the replies all helpful.
I'm going to replace the top body to chassis fixings.
In the bag of boot carpet pieces I have these two bits, they look like they have been wrapped round something and also have signs they
have had something resting on them.
Any Ideas where they come from originally?
Cheers
I'm going to replace the top body to chassis fixings.
In the bag of boot carpet pieces I have these two bits, they look like they have been wrapped round something and also have signs they
have had something resting on them.
Any Ideas where they come from originally?
Cheers
No, they are not the rear lamp covers, I have those.
Next time I pop down Central I'll check and see what's behind the seats but these don't have any hook or loop on them, unless it's fell off.
From the area where it looks like something has worn through, I would have guessed the Alloy fuel tank has been rubbing them.
Cheers
Next time I pop down Central I'll check and see what's behind the seats but these don't have any hook or loop on them, unless it's fell off.
From the area where it looks like something has worn through, I would have guessed the Alloy fuel tank has been rubbing them.
Cheers
Updates
Fuel tank in and a couple of gallons pumped round the pipes to check for leaks using a battery on the pump......all sound.
Decided to keep the plug extenders for the present as they look new and finished them with heat shrink and added some heat/insulation socks.
Now fitting the coolant system, 1st problem I can only find one fan, the other one I can only find the cowl, will need to ask PO what has happened to it.
The rad' pegs at the bottom sits in the body, bible says "add a soft washer", so I will.
I've found two bobbins for the top rad' fixing but only one horizontal slotted hole in the body on the passenger side. Very strange will ask the PO what the story is.
Should there be any material between the front of the rad' and the GRP aperture as mine has small holes around the periphery.
If the PO don't have the fan, what's the best source?
Cheers everyone.
Fuel tank in and a couple of gallons pumped round the pipes to check for leaks using a battery on the pump......all sound.
Decided to keep the plug extenders for the present as they look new and finished them with heat shrink and added some heat/insulation socks.
Now fitting the coolant system, 1st problem I can only find one fan, the other one I can only find the cowl, will need to ask PO what has happened to it.
The rad' pegs at the bottom sits in the body, bible says "add a soft washer", so I will.
I've found two bobbins for the top rad' fixing but only one horizontal slotted hole in the body on the passenger side. Very strange will ask the PO what the story is.
Should there be any material between the front of the rad' and the GRP aperture as mine has small holes around the periphery.
If the PO don't have the fan, what's the best source?
Cheers everyone.
Edited by lancepar on Monday 23 July 19:42
Silicone hoses
Finally worked out how the original coolant pipes were fitted but I'm fitting silicone hoses instead.
In the kit I have it would appear they need cutting down in length to suit, is this the norm, best way to trim?
Because the PO removed the heater, I don't see the point in joining the small outlet on the top of the engine to the lower return pipe to the rad', what you think?
Finally worked out how the original coolant pipes were fitted but I'm fitting silicone hoses instead.
In the kit I have it would appear they need cutting down in length to suit, is this the norm, best way to trim?
Because the PO removed the heater, I don't see the point in joining the small outlet on the top of the engine to the lower return pipe to the rad', what you think?
Thanks Guys,
All understood now and digested.
Now I get it. The original heater although when closed to cold, has a small bypass in the circuit under the dash that allows coolant to circulate.
Also I've discovered the small outlet on the manifold has been blanked off already and the larger one used when the PO ran the cam "in" before the body was refitted with a temporary coolant circuit,
Cheers
All understood now and digested.
Now I get it. The original heater although when closed to cold, has a small bypass in the circuit under the dash that allows coolant to circulate.
Also I've discovered the small outlet on the manifold has been blanked off already and the larger one used when the PO ran the cam "in" before the body was refitted with a temporary coolant circuit,
Cheers
Couple of more parts I'm missing.
One of these......
Also
I have the hydraulic manifold that fits in the tunnel side and after a visit to Central I see the picture frame that surrounds it and the fixings go through, is missing!
Any body got these and want to part with them, please get in touch.
Cheers
One of these......
Also
I have the hydraulic manifold that fits in the tunnel side and after a visit to Central I see the picture frame that surrounds it and the fixings go through, is missing!
Any body got these and want to part with them, please get in touch.
Cheers
Nearly ready to fire it up again since the body has been in place (it was run in the restored chassis).
Re routed the PAS return pipe that the PO had too close to the exhaust down pipe.
Plumbed in the redundant heater feed to the bottom rad' pipe and filled system with coolant (will add antifreeze after it is run up).
Discovered where the vacuum feed needs to be connected and joined to the ECU (tee piece needed).
And found where the PO had hidden the ECU, where the document pocket should be on the pass' side. Think I'm going to put it under the top dash cover. (anybody got a lower dash section?) might as well put this back to std while I'm on as I have the original panels for the dash instuments and radio.
Had been considering looking for a Chim' with a rotten chassis, knackered engine, gearbox and diff' etc but beautiful body, are there any out there?
Reminder of what I have, plus doors, VW mirrors, lights and hood that needs recovering etc.
Cheers.
Edited by lancepar on Sunday 23 September 22:36
Battery
I posted this on a battery thread on the Griff forum.........
"I'm getting closer to deciding what battery to fit. Location will be in the boot as the PO intended with the refurb' of the Chim'
What about one of these?......
https://tinyurl.com/y7bu4mtk
Any chat regarding them etc?"
Anybody used one?
Cheers
I posted this on a battery thread on the Griff forum.........
"I'm getting closer to deciding what battery to fit. Location will be in the boot as the PO intended with the refurb' of the Chim'
What about one of these?......
https://tinyurl.com/y7bu4mtk
Any chat regarding them etc?"
Anybody used one?
Cheers
I see the Odyssey PC925 that is used by some is rated at 28 ah @10 hr rate with a CCA of 380.
Not sure if the XR-1000 is 40 ah @ 10 hr, but the CCA is 480.
The XR-1000 is also sold to "Replaces The Odyssey PC1100 Battery!" which I believe other on here also use.
Sound a good buy, but have people tried them?
Not sure if the XR-1000 is 40 ah @ 10 hr, but the CCA is 480.
The XR-1000 is also sold to "Replaces The Odyssey PC1100 Battery!" which I believe other on here also use.
Sound a good buy, but have people tried them?
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