Advice needed - high emissions , central locking , fuel pump

[200OOM]

Ok.

Black probe to 86, red probe to 85. Ign switch on. 12.5v for approx 1 sec, then down to 0.

I also tried the black probe on a good earth and got 12,5v but constant?

Battery is good , hooked up to trickle solar .

What's next please Steve , the relay when returned has stopped clattering

[200OOM]

Also , ign on. Probe to good earth
87 shows 0.01v
87 below shows 0.01
86 0v
85 12.3v
30 shows 9.87v

[200OOM]

Also , ign on. Probe to good earth
87 shows 0.01v
87 below shows 0.01
86 0v
85 12.3v
30 shows 9.87v

[Belle427]

Seems as though you have an intermittent fault as your relay is now working, your first set of tests prove this but I think your confusing where to put the probes.
Try the first test you listed again while playing around with the wiring loom etc, keep the black probe on pin 85 as that is negative, move it as Steve suggested only if the voltage fluctuates and the relay chatters.
Pin 30 should be receiving roughly 12 volts, I'm not sure why its only 9 but this needs investigating, double check the fuse is in place and the terminals are not corroded.

[200OOM]

With the relay in I am not getting the fuel pump priming . Would the fuse be in the main board? Location if you know would be a help. So basically shake the wires and see if readings move . The try and narrow it down ?

[Belle427]

Someone else may be able to confirm if that voltage at pin 30 is correct, I would expect to see 12 volts unless there is a resistor used in there somewhere.
Both pins 87 should see 12 volts too when the relay is being energised.

[Loubaruch]

Yes one would expect to see at least 12 volts on pin 30.

The fuel pump circuit for a 96 Griffith:

http://www.bertram-hill.com/fuel-pump-schematic.ht...

In some cars the fuel pump 12 volt feed to pin 30 is immobilised. That could be your problem.

Be careful prodding around as 12volts inadvertently sent to one of the ECU connections could land you with an expensive bill!

[Steve_D]

That voltage on pin 30 is very wrong and is most likely the cause of your problems.
Power to it comes from Fuse 12 but goes via the immobiliser which I'm sure you know is the root of many TVR problems.

Without a good knowledge of car electrics trying to resolve immobiliser/alarm issues would probably be best left to professionals.

Having said that these guys offer a pretty much plug and play solution which you may be able to fit yourself.
http://www.abacuscaralarms.co.uk/tvr-alarms.html

Steve

[200OOM]

Hi, thanks for the wiring diagram , helps put things in the right place in my head.

I will check that fuse, but if I were to put 12v , switched , to pin 30 would that not sort the problem out of getting the fuel pump working and getting the lambda sensors powered again, assuming that they do get power from the fuel pump relay, that middle 5th pin?

I have the combined central locking and alarm box M0462 f

Would it just be a replacement part, plug and play as you say??

I have keys to open the door, and set the alarm

[Belle427]

Putting a switched fused 12 volt supply to pin 30 would be the easiest solution if that is an immobiliser unit. They must have had a pretty big lucky dip bucket at TVR when they selected their parts!
It still wouldn't explain why the relay chattered but would eliminate any immobiliser related issues.
Just make sure to remove the existing cable from pin 30 first, probably easier to cut it a few inches back and insulate well.

[200OOM]

Ok, so check that fuse mentioned previously, then cut the wire to pin 30, splice in a 12v switched supply. This should then give a prime to the fuel pump, power the lambda sensors and then run the fuel,pump once the engine is started? So basically as it was but with an alternative 12v supply to pin 30

[Steve_D]

200OOM said:

Hi, thanks for the wiring diagram , helps put things in the right place in my head.

I will check that fuse, but if I were to put 12v , switched , to pin 30 would that not sort the problem out of getting the fuel pump working and getting the lambda sensors powered again, assuming that they do get power from the fuel pump relay, that middle 5th pin?

I have the combined central locking and alarm box M0462 f

Would it just be a replacement part, plug and play as you say??

I have keys to open the door, and set the alarm

My suggestion of fuse 12 was based on a later car. That also applies to my suggestion about Abacus as they are offering a conversion for the Meta alarm/immobiliser. May still be worth a look at their site as they may do something for your alarm.

Putting a new supply to the relay would eliminate the low volts you found but still does not fully answer the chattering as that would be the relays activation coil. The coil is switched by the ECU which also gets its supply (Pin 19) from the same fuse/immobiliser (on later cars) so it could be the ECU is seeing the same low volts and causing the chatter. May be worth checking pin 19 and see what volts you get there I'm sure the ECU would not be happy with such a low supply.

May be worth taking the lid off that box and see what's inside.

Steve

[TV8]

200OOM said:

Hi, thanks for the wiring diagram , helps put things in the right place in my head.

I will check that fuse, but if I were to put 12v , switched , to pin 30 would that not sort the problem out of getting the fuel pump working and getting the lambda sensors powered again, assuming that they do get power from the fuel pump relay, that middle 5th pin?

I have the combined central locking and alarm box M0462 f

Would it just be a replacement part, plug and play as you say??

I have keys to open the door, and set the alarm

Not sure how adventurous your are feeling but I think that box has a few relays in that you can clean the contacts up on. I had some problems on the early alarm system and that is one of things my mate did for me.

[Steve_D]

I've just realised your box only says Central locking so there must be other boxes somewhere for the alarm and immobiliser.

Steve

[200OOM]

Thanks guys, The central locking box I believe is also the alarm. So would also presume it to be the immobiliser also. Will get the power to pin 30 and let you know, what happens. Will that also power the lambda sensors, which will then sort the emmissions out?

[Steve_D]

200OOM said:

Thanks guys, The central locking box I believe is also the alarm. So would also presume it to be the immobiliser also. Will get the power to pin 30 and let you know, what happens. Will that also power the lambda sensors, which will then sort the emmissions out?

If you put in the correct, working, relay then yes.

Steve

[Belle427]

Should do yes, make sure the cable is suitable sized to handle the current. Its not a huge amount but needs to be considered.

[200OOM]

For what ever reason putting 12v in did not work , possibly down to battery now flat. Will charge and resume . What I have noticed is the thick purple wire that should have been giving 12v constant when switched is giving 12v when ign off, then down to 9v when ign on. Where I that purple wire from . May need to tackle the rats nest of wiring . Why would the voltage drop ? I am thinking now to put a standard relay on fed directly from the battery, switched by a 12v supply , ign on, and then having 2 cables out to the fuel pump and the lambda heating circuit ??? This is how I had it running before , but with out the Lambda circuit being connected . So with 12v to the lambda I should get feed back to ECU to control the fuelling and emissions . Logical or not??

[200OOM]

Up date.,I changed all the fuses for the led ones. I did not check if any were blown. I now can see that the central locking fuse has blown, glimmer of blue light behind the battery. Could this be a clue?

[Belle427]

Hard to say really but if it supplies that box and the immobiliser is in there too then it a possibility.