Poor Idle / Rovergauge Help
Discussion
blitzracing said:
Be careful here- all this ECU resetting clears the long term fuel trim down- so the ECU has to re learn the setting. This takes at least 2.5 mins at plus 90'c at a fixed idle. So put it on long term trim, and let the car idle, and you should see the long term trim slowly move bit by bit. Assuming it sets at less than 100%, the short term should then start to cycle around the mid point again. If you just reset ECU without letting it learn or the engine is not hot enough you will get the symptoms you describe.
Will do Mark, I am having tinker tomorrow and will report back.Looks to me like you have a Land Rover 3.9 UK Tune on an early non-socketed EEPROM board in your TVR:
- R3101 (not seen on a TVR before)
- Land Rover Tune ID $1A15, TVR is $1A17
- Main fuel scaler $54DD (not used on TVR tunes)
- target idle of 700 rpm would indicate a low LR base idle parameter is set i.e. 600 rpm whereas TVR are 800 rpm
- low RPM limit 5403 rpm whereas TVR 4.0 tunes are 5800 rpm
This all indicates a 14CUX board swap at some time in the car's history. The date stamp on the case shows year 93, all post 91 ECUs have a socketed PROM arrangement.
If it were me I'd get a TVR unit in the car, this should solve your idle problem.
- R3101 (not seen on a TVR before)
- Land Rover Tune ID $1A15, TVR is $1A17
- Main fuel scaler $54DD (not used on TVR tunes)
- target idle of 700 rpm would indicate a low LR base idle parameter is set i.e. 600 rpm whereas TVR are 800 rpm
- low RPM limit 5403 rpm whereas TVR 4.0 tunes are 5800 rpm
This all indicates a 14CUX board swap at some time in the car's history. The date stamp on the case shows year 93, all post 91 ECUs have a socketed PROM arrangement.
If it were me I'd get a TVR unit in the car, this should solve your idle problem.
Edited by davep on Monday 22 May 08:35
As the man says- but that date code is new enough you can cut the current fuel chip out and fit a socket so it will take a TVR chip. Its quite a tricky job as there is lots of water proofing on the PCB that tends to glue the chip in, so you need fine cutters to cull all the legs, then white spirit to soften the sealant, and then gently pull the chip body away- dont lever from underneath as it damages the PCB tracks under the chip. Then once you have 24 chip legs exposed you have to remove them one by one, and use a solder sucker to clean the holes before inserting a chip socket. You also need to be strapped down to an anti static mat when you do it. Happy to do the work for you if you want to ping me a mail.
blitzracing said:
As the man says- but that date code is new enough you can cut the current fuel chip out and fit a socket so it will take a TVR chip. Its quite a tricky job as there is lots of water proofing on the PCB that tends to glue the chip in, so you need fine cutters to cull all the legs, then white spirit to soften the sealant, and then gently pull the chip body away- dont lever from underneath as it damages the PCB tracks under the chip. Then once you have 24 chip legs exposed you have to remove them one by one, and use a solder sucker to clean the holes before inserting a chip socket. You also need to be strapped down to an anti static mat when you do it. Happy to do the work for you if you want to ping me a mail.
Not having done this though I am fully aware of the process. If there is risk to the PCB tracks and waterproofing issues I would be tempted to cut the legs on the existing chip and solder the new chip socket to the old legs with some thick double sided tape under the socket to prevent it moving. That will of course depend on available head clearance Thanks all.
I have borrowed an ECU from the good man James Agger and I can confirm she is now running sweet as a nut.
I still have a few jobs to do to get her MOT'd (I have the Cerbera to play around in still) so I am in no rush for an ECU - unless one comes up in the meantime.
I am pretty handy with double sided PCBs, so will probably have a go at mounting an IC socket and re-use the ECU.
Do you know where I can get a std Mapped EEPROM from?
Appreciate all the help on this one.
Cheers once again
Nick
I have borrowed an ECU from the good man James Agger and I can confirm she is now running sweet as a nut.
I still have a few jobs to do to get her MOT'd (I have the Cerbera to play around in still) so I am in no rush for an ECU - unless one comes up in the meantime.
I am pretty handy with double sided PCBs, so will probably have a go at mounting an IC socket and re-use the ECU.
Do you know where I can get a std Mapped EEPROM from?
Appreciate all the help on this one.
Cheers once again
Nick
there are some interesting remaps by Steve Sprint downloadable FOC. Nice touches like latest Lucas code, (called operation pride) that irons out some bugs, and improved RPM boundary's and extended RPM mapping.
http://home2.btconnect.com/stevesprint/remap-14cux...
The files are .bin files (ie basic binary) and just need copying into a 27C256 Eprom.
http://home2.btconnect.com/stevesprint/remap-14cux...
The files are .bin files (ie basic binary) and just need copying into a 27C256 Eprom.
blitzracing said:
.... but that date code is new enough you can cut the current fuel chip out and fit a socket so it will take a TVR chip.
Blitz, the '93 date code only applies to the case. The PCB's date of manufacture can only be accurately dated by determining when Land Rover tune R3101 was current. Do you have details of the R3101 in your knowledge base?Sorry all. Been busy getting car finished, through MoT and a full titivation.
Have fitted a replacement eeprom to the old ECU which has been a success with the newly installed socket.
Unfortunately I damaged the old chip (hairline crack) when removing it although it initially looked ok after I cut it out.
So which RoverGauge shots shall I take for you good chaps?
Nick
Have fitted a replacement eeprom to the old ECU which has been a success with the newly installed socket.
Unfortunately I damaged the old chip (hairline crack) when removing it although it initially looked ok after I cut it out.
So which RoverGauge shots shall I take for you good chaps?
Nick
vroom said:
Sorry all. Been busy getting car finished, through MoT and a full titivation.
Have fitted a replacement eeprom to the old ECU which has been a success with the newly installed socket.
Unfortunately I damaged the old chip (hairline crack) when removing it although it initially looked ok after I cut it out.
So which RoverGauge shots shall I take for you good chaps?
Nick
A shot of the main screen with ignition On but engine not started, a shot of the same screen immediately after starting, and the same screenshot as in your first post with engine fully warmed up, please. Where did you get your new eeprom from?Have fitted a replacement eeprom to the old ECU which has been a success with the newly installed socket.
Unfortunately I damaged the old chip (hairline crack) when removing it although it initially looked ok after I cut it out.
So which RoverGauge shots shall I take for you good chaps?
Nick
davep said:
A shot of the main screen with ignition On but engine not started, a shot of the same screen immediately after starting, and the same screenshot as in your first post with engine fully warmed up, please. Where did you get your new eeprom from?
Dave, 4 screenshots below:Note that idle appears initially high (1400RPM) when coming to a standstill. Drops to 900 after a few secs. Base idle set at 500RPM and no air leaks. Was wondering if there is any mileage in restricting the stepper motor bleed to limit the RPM? Stepper motor control is working based on the manual control via Rovergauge.
Besides this, car runs spot on, smooth as silk and very responsive - but I am used to an AJP Cerb!
Before start:
|https://thumbsnap.com/xLumSjNC[/url]
Cold start (missed the initial 2500RPM start)
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Warming up:
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