Driveshaft alternatives

[Smokey Boyer]

My 1994 Chimaera has started making a clunking noise occasionally when pulling away from a standing start, and also occasionally a clicking noise under light load. The click might be there more frequently but I cannot hear it over the exhaust noise. Both noises are from the rear nearside.

Having spoken to a local specialist, who has yet to see and hear the car, they have diagnosed that it is likely to be worn CV joints and possibly worn splines on the shaft itself. The top diff bush was checked and confirmed to be OK a few months ago by another local specialist.

Quick bit of research to prepare myself for the size of a potential repair bill for replacement drive shafts complete with CV joints, and mildly horrified by the price charged by TVR Parts and Racetech. Almost £600 each inc VAT. I have not yet had a quote from the specialist so have no idea how they compare yet, and do not want to suggest they are as expensive without knowing.

Having done some research I have found that the driveshafts are apparently 480mm long (measured from the outer face of the CV) and are from the rear of a Sierra Cosworth. I have yet to confirm this info by physically comparing the parts, but found a few sources reporting the same thing. Based on that info, Graham Goode sells what should be the right driveshaft for £235. Can anyone confirm THIS is the correct part?


I might be tempted to have a go myself. How easy are the drive shafts to replace? Is it just a case of carefully undoing the allen head bolts at the diff and hub end, and removing the top hub carrier bolt to get the shaft out? Does the entire hub carrier need to come off? What problems am I likely to face?

Also found THIS on ebay at £50. Doubt it would last 5 minutes in reality but might be a cheap way of proving where the fault is, assuming it is the right part, before parting company with a chunk of cash for a more reliable part.

Edited by Smokey Boyer on Sunday 7th May 08:06

[N7GTX]

If you are not doing track days and want a standard repair, then the CV joints from Prolinx are excellent. They do standard replacements, uprated and race so choose which fits your budget. I have the standard GKN OEM ones and they are well made.
You need the 108mm diameter with 28mm spline.

These are easy to change with no special tools and for assembly will need some good quality CV joint grease. Undo the top hub bolt and the CV joint socket headed screws. Note that the inner and outer screws are different threads, one is metric and one is imperial and NOT interchangeable. Cut off the clips on the CV joints - the black grease sticks to everything and is very messy. On the end of the shaft is a circlip. Remove this then you can pull the joints off. Sometimes they are tight on the splines so knock off using a piece of wood to prevent damage to the splines. Refitting is the reverse.

http://www.prolinx.biz/pages/Products/ViewCategory...

The knocking could also be worn differential bushes or play in the diff itself or play in the propshaft.

Edited by N7GTX on Sunday 7th May 08:23

Edited by N7GTX on Sunday 7th May 08:25

[Plan B]

I fitted uprated CVs from Dave Mac. They also supply boot kits and grease. Good price and great quality. I do recall however they supplied incorrect Allen headed bolts (metric for UNF mix up) however I suspect that was perhaps a one-off mistake. Whilst your down there consider replacing wheel bearings.

[Belle427]

Dave Mac shafts seem to have been highly recommended in the past.

[QBee]

Does he need the special tool for tightening the big clip that holds the boots in place? sort of like a big jubilee clip, but thinner and with a different mechanism.

[Smokey Boyer]

QBee said:

Does he need the special tool for tightening the big clip that holds the boots in place? sort of like a big jubilee clip, but thinner and with a different mechanism.

I am assuming that the 'complete driveshaft' parts I referenced from TVR Parts, RaceTech and Graham Goode all come assembled, greased and ready to bolt on. The GG version as £235 does not appear to bad price wise when compared to the costs of buying reasonable quality CV joints, boots, grease etc.

[macdeb]

Belle427 said:

Dave Mac shafts seem to have been highly recommended in the past.

There are alternatives but 'Dave Mac' are THE best. Though not cheap at circa £750. depends on what you want, I wanted the best and depends on long term plans.

[Smokey Boyer]

Many thanks for the feedback and suggestions. The Dave Mac option sounds interesting and possibly cheaper than TVR Parts, and Coventry is not too far. I am not convinced the car is a keeper (2 years is about my limit before I get bored), but equally do not want to do anything that damages the value or reliability by fitting unreliable parts.

I am still interested in finding a suitable and reasonably priced alternative....

Smokey Boyer said:

Can anyone confirm THIS is the correct part?

[77racing]

The first £50 you link to is the right one but not sure how long it will last ,the second one you link to I was not aware the escort was the right shaft never heard anyone say escort or sierra it's Granada part. Dave mac are just finishing off a batch of shafts this week, a few have been sold so if you want them you will have to be fairly quick to get any. His are unbreakable F1 spec steel and life time guarantee for what that is worth.

[Belle427]

macdeb said:

There are alternatives but 'Dave Mac' are THE best. Though not cheap at circa £750. depends on what you want, I wanted the best and depends on long term plans.

Thanks, previous owner fitted them to my car so happy days.

[Richard 858]

I'd also recommend GB Engineering for driveshafts, highly rated by various racing types and custom made so they insist on a drawing. I'm more than happy with what I've received from them, coupled with a set of uprated CV joints from Prolinx these should see me through.

[Tiiazllm]

Smokey Boyer said:

Many thanks for the feedback and suggestions.
I am still interested in finding a suitable and reasonably priced alternative....

Hi Smokey,

Did you manage to source a reasonably priced alternative driveshaft? I've just snapped one on my Chim, and going down the same rabbit hole looking for a reasonably priced replacement?

Many thanks

[QBee]

Tiiazllm said:

Smokey Boyer said:

Many thanks for the feedback and suggestions.
I am still interested in finding a suitable and reasonably priced alternative....

Hi Smokey,

Did you manage to source a reasonably priced alternative driveshaft? I've just snapped one on my Chim, and going down the same rabbit hole looking for a reasonably priced replacement?

Many thanks

PM sent

[phazed]

Tiiazllm said:

Hi Smokey,

Did you manage to source a reasonably priced alternative driveshaft? I've just snapped one on my Chim, and going down the same rabbit hole looking for a reasonably priced replacement?

Many thanks

Really! On the road?

You may have the early driveshafts with a circlip as a shoulder on the inner side of the spline, these are weaker.

If you have the later shouldered driveshafts then they are very strong resisting drag starts with sticky drag radials, full throttle and dumping the clutch!

[Tony91]

Any good
http://berrisford.co.uk/index.php/driveshafts/cust...