Brake Bleeding

[ChimaeraKev]

Morning all,

Nearly getting close to that magical MOT time! The last job that needs doing before I can even test it is to bleed the brakes, the reservoir was practically empty when I got the car and the pedal was very spongy. I jacked up the rear end and bled the drivers side rear (which expelled a lot of air) using an Ezeebleed from Halfords. Once this was done the pedal felt much firmer.

So went to the other side, did that one which didn't have much air in it at all. Went to do the front passenger side and it was like all the pressure just went! Tried the front drivers side and couldn't seem to get anything through at all, almost like it was blocked or something. Is there any special procedure for bleeding the brakes or anything I need to investigate?

Cheers,
Kev

[latham91]

Someone else on here suggested what seems a good solution to me - use an pump-type oil can with some rubber tube to the nipples at the brake caliper ends and pump the brake fluid upwards to dispel the air upwards - seems logical to me and will be the way I try it next time I do this job?

[Steve_D]

Eezeebleed should be doing the job fine.
When you do the rears you are clearing all the way from master cylinder when you do the first side. the second side can only have air left in the short section of pipe from the tee junction half way across the car hence little air.

For the fronts I would take the bleed nipples out and put a 2or3 mm drill up the middle as it may be full of rust.

General note when using the bleeder do not have the pressure too high (<15psi). Two reasons...it can blow the bleeder off which will cover your car in brake fluid...second the high pressure compresses the air bubbles making them smaller and harder to remove.

Steve

[s p a c e m a n]

The rears are normally the pigs to do, at least you have good access to the fronts. If all else fails crack open the join between the copper and rubber pipe and see if you can get fluid there, then work along to the caliper connection. Then you'll probably know where it's all going wrong.

[ChimaeraKev]

Thanks for the advice and help chaps!

I've just realised though, the kit I got is not the Ezeebleed system, it's the Viziblled kit - http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/hand-...

Would I be better to get the proper Eezebleed kit? (http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/hand-tools/gunson-eezibleed)


Cheers,
Kev

[s p a c e m a n]

Is that one of those crappy one way valves in a piece of tube contraption that you put on the caliper bleed nipple? They never work, get a mate to push the pedal and do it the old fashioned way if you haven't got an proper eazibleed thing.

[phillpot]

ChimaeraKev said:

I've just realised though, the kit I got is not the Ezeebleed system, it's the Viziblled kit -

Yep, bin that rubbish and get a proper Ezeebleed

[illmonkey]

ChimaeraKev said:

Thanks for the advice and help chaps!

I've just realised though, the kit I got is not the Ezeebleed system, it's the Viziblled kit - http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/hand-...

Would I be better to get the proper Eezebleed kit? (http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/hand-tools/gunson-eezibleed)


Cheers,
Kev

It's not a TVR, but I've bled my car using this recently and it was easy. Disposing the fluid on the otherhand is not!

Attach to nipple, open nipple 1/4-1/2 turn, pump pedel 4-6 times to get air out, it's not hard!

[Konrod]

If you can't get any fluid out of one side it maybe a collapsed flexible hose, or a leak somewhere en-route to that caliper (being as the reservoir was nearly empty). You can't see a collapsed hose from the outside, easy way to check is loosen the hose at the caliper, and see if fluid comes out when the pedal is depressed (enough to reflect the amount of pedal travel). If there is a leak then you will not be able to pump the brakes up to solid and the reservoir will empty.

Forget the eezibleed, they are a PITA, especially when you've finished. Fill a clean jar (or the eezibleed bottle) half full of fluid, connect the bleed hose to the nipple making sure it's airtight (zip tie) and drop the other end into the fluid (to stop the risk of air being drawn back in). With the nipple closed, get a mate to pump the brakes hard 6 times (which pushes the bubbles along and gets smaller bubbles to merge and form bigger ones) Open the nipple as he presses down the 7th time, then shut the nipple when the pedal is all the way down and before he lifts his foot off (shouting at each other helps here ). Repeat (topping up the reservoir if necessary), until no air is seen. Repeat for all wheels.

I've done this many times (serial kit car builder in my murky past) and it always works.

[ChimaeraKev]

Brilliant thank you guys.
I'll hopefully get chance to have another look at it over the weekend. As I mentioned the rears appeared to bleed ok, it was just the fronts. I did notice upon looking that there is a bleed nipple on the master cylinder, is it worth doing this as well?

Kev

[Steve_D]

ChimaeraKev said:

.... I did notice upon looking that there is a bleed nipple on the master cylinder, is it worth doing this as well?....

I've never done so. It is only there to blank off a spare port on the cylinder.

Steve

[Pink_Floyd]

Steve_D said:

I've never done so. It is only there to blank off a spare port on the cylinder.
Steve

For me bleeding this made all the difference. Its really difficult to get at and do. Before bleeding this the pedal felt spongy.

[ChimaeraKev]

Afternoon all,

Just thought I would update on this. I couldn't get the fronts to bleed at all so I went off and bought a proper Eezibleed kit, and it worked a treat! Got the whole lot done in about 30 minutes!

Thanks for the help!
Kev