Hydraulic Valve Lifter Additives - Recommendations?
Discussion
Classic Chim said:
...I personally wouldn't put anything other than the correct grade oil in it. 
What do you put in yours? I've been using Valvoline VR1 20/50 for a few years now and it seems fine...
On Auto-routes the gauges read like this hour after hour, mile on mile until the car needs petrol or I need a pee so I'm not going to lose any sleep over this. The only gauge that changes is the fuel one
10/40 semi synthetic
Thicker oil didn't work for me in my Powers re built engine, instant top end noise. Good pressure doesn't automatically increase oil flow rate as I seem to have found out.
As my earlier post shows I'm no expert and maybe lifters rarely bleed down and so is it just lack of lube around the rocker areas. I struggle to understand how I can have very mild tapping one day and not the next.
20,000 + since rebuild and it still shows good power so I've long stopped worrying about it.
I've heard many with much noisier overall valve train rattle/taps/knocking than mine ever does.
Thicker oil didn't work for me in my Powers re built engine, instant top end noise. Good pressure doesn't automatically increase oil flow rate as I seem to have found out.
As my earlier post shows I'm no expert and maybe lifters rarely bleed down and so is it just lack of lube around the rocker areas. I struggle to understand how I can have very mild tapping one day and not the next.
20,000 + since rebuild and it still shows good power so I've long stopped worrying about it.
I've heard many with much noisier overall valve train rattle/taps/knocking than mine ever does.
OP
I have been here and tried an additive with no result and this is what I learned from a reputable engine builder.
The preload is set up as an average over the bank of valves and adjusted by shimming or skimming the pedestals that support the valve rocker, if needed. If it's set up properly in the first place at initial oil pressure the hydraulic lifters will pump up and all will be well, if not and a lifter sticks you would have too much tolerance in that train and hear a constant mechanical sound.
It's not likely that a lifter is bleeding down 'in cycle" under oil pressure, have you ever tried to compress a full one? It's almost impossible.
Overrun rattle is more like to be small end wear. To get to a total of 5L displacement TVR lengthened piston stroke in this engine and this reduced lubrication to the small ends, also the position of the gudgeon pin at TDC comes into this. It can start at around 40k in the 5L TVR engine as I understand.
If you can't live with the noise you would need an engine rebuild but you could also just ignore it.
HTH
A
I have been here and tried an additive with no result and this is what I learned from a reputable engine builder.
The preload is set up as an average over the bank of valves and adjusted by shimming or skimming the pedestals that support the valve rocker, if needed. If it's set up properly in the first place at initial oil pressure the hydraulic lifters will pump up and all will be well, if not and a lifter sticks you would have too much tolerance in that train and hear a constant mechanical sound.
It's not likely that a lifter is bleeding down 'in cycle" under oil pressure, have you ever tried to compress a full one? It's almost impossible.
Overrun rattle is more like to be small end wear. To get to a total of 5L displacement TVR lengthened piston stroke in this engine and this reduced lubrication to the small ends, also the position of the gudgeon pin at TDC comes into this. It can start at around 40k in the 5L TVR engine as I understand.
If you can't live with the noise you would need an engine rebuild but you could also just ignore it.
HTH
A
OP
It's very interesting reading this as I have exactly the same symptoms you describe , a classic example is when approaching a speed hump where you slow right down and the revs reduce , it doesn't do it when revs increase . Mine is a 5 litre with 48k that has had new cam and timing chain in the past
I'm told it's nothing to worry about but it does jiggle me a little
I'd love to see if you find a definite solution/ cause
Dave
It's very interesting reading this as I have exactly the same symptoms you describe , a classic example is when approaching a speed hump where you slow right down and the revs reduce , it doesn't do it when revs increase . Mine is a 5 litre with 48k that has had new cam and timing chain in the past
I'm told it's nothing to worry about but it does jiggle me a little
I'd love to see if you find a definite solution/ cause
Dave
A 5w 50 Is perfect but not so easy to find now; 10w 60 is also a good choice but will take marginally longer to circulate from cold.
In response to the comment above about lack of rocker area oiling, this really is almost never the issue with Rover V8s. Quite the opposite in fact. It is almost usual for too much oil to be going upstairs, especially when slackly toleranced pattern rocker shafts/pedestals are used and rev limits extended by tuning. The oil spraying redundantly around the rocker boxes is obviously not protecting bearings on the rods and crank but just causing leaks and windage drag, so well worth considering whether a restrictor in the head/pedestal gallery might be beneficial. If pedestal shims are used, they often incorporate a narrower aperture than the gallery for this reason.
In response to the comment above about lack of rocker area oiling, this really is almost never the issue with Rover V8s. Quite the opposite in fact. It is almost usual for too much oil to be going upstairs, especially when slackly toleranced pattern rocker shafts/pedestals are used and rev limits extended by tuning. The oil spraying redundantly around the rocker boxes is obviously not protecting bearings on the rods and crank but just causing leaks and windage drag, so well worth considering whether a restrictor in the head/pedestal gallery might be beneficial. If pedestal shims are used, they often incorporate a narrower aperture than the gallery for this reason.
I went to a TVR specialist open day today and got their well respected mechanic to have a listen. When the bloody thing eventually decided to do its little rattle his immediate diagnosis was timing chain. Two options:-
1. Replace; 4 hours labour plus parts.
2. Ignore it.
Guess which one I'm going to do?
Thanks to all for your suggestions. It just proves how difficult it is to come up with a diagnosis from a written description.
1. Replace; 4 hours labour plus parts.
2. Ignore it.
Guess which one I'm going to do?
Thanks to all for your suggestions. It just proves how difficult it is to come up with a diagnosis from a written description.
Pupp said:
Here's hoping Simon... it's in bits again currently as chasing an oil leak that seems to have been the front crank seal (after doing pretty much everything else)... the cooling ssue was a weird one but putting it down to an airlock and old pressure cap. Fingers crossed
Good find 
see your other post Airtex are a good brand good heads up with that mod Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff