Checking Suspension Components
Discussion
Hi,
I believe I've got an issue with at some some of my suspension - it sounds like the tyre on the nearside front is hitting the wheel arch liner/something else whenever there is a bump or big change in road height etc.
First stage is problem diagnosis...what should I be looking for/at and how should I be testing it?
Thanks
I believe I've got an issue with at some some of my suspension - it sounds like the tyre on the nearside front is hitting the wheel arch liner/something else whenever there is a bump or big change in road height etc.
First stage is problem diagnosis...what should I be looking for/at and how should I be testing it?
Thanks
Honestly, if you need answers to those questions I'm sure your better taking it to a Tvr garage.
Obvious answers would be ride height to low on the front on adjustable shocks or possibly a broken spring. You should be able to bottom out shocks without fouling inner wheel arch. What size tyre's do you use. Obvious would be to find where it's rubbing and go from there. If you want decent advice a pic or more info might help.
Obvious answers would be ride height to low on the front on adjustable shocks or possibly a broken spring. You should be able to bottom out shocks without fouling inner wheel arch. What size tyre's do you use. Obvious would be to find where it's rubbing and go from there. If you want decent advice a pic or more info might help.
I'm handy with a spanner, done plenty of my own servicing and repairs (including suspension work) on various cars over the years - so actual replacement of items shouldn't be a problem.
I was mainly just looking for the best way to go about diagnosing the issue. In fairness I haven't even had a look at all myself yet - I was just being lazy and thought I'd steal the ideas of you guys
I'll hopefully get some time over the weekend to jack it up and get a wheel off and will take it from there. Tyres are 215/45/17 RS3s on the front. I suspect it's a suspension problem as it appears to just be the one side at the moment.
I'll stop being lazy and try and take a look over the weekend...
I was mainly just looking for the best way to go about diagnosing the issue. In fairness I haven't even had a look at all myself yet - I was just being lazy and thought I'd steal the ideas of you guys
I'll hopefully get some time over the weekend to jack it up and get a wheel off and will take it from there. Tyres are 215/45/17 RS3s on the front. I suspect it's a suspension problem as it appears to just be the one side at the moment.
I'll stop being lazy and try and take a look over the weekend...
Sorry, it just sounded a bit odd, you have rubbing and want us to tell you where to look.
Cool.
You have the same size as mine. Larger than standard. Do you get any rubbing on full lock.
I've raised my ride height and at the moment running old Avo shocks which raise it again significantly to the standard height and I have had no problems like you discribe other than on full lock reversing!!
5 mm spacers would solve this in my case as my offset is not quite right, tyre sits about 4 mm further in than it should.
As a judge for ride height I can get two fingers in between arch and tyre so a good 30 mm but that is slightly high for my preferred setting.
Check your bump stops are intact on your shocks because you shouldn't really bottom shocks or get the wheel touching the arch even with full compression. I'd look carefully at the lower wing where it wraps around the rigger corner for evidence of touching there as that's the closest mine comes on the 45/17 tyre's.
Cool.
You have the same size as mine. Larger than standard. Do you get any rubbing on full lock.
I've raised my ride height and at the moment running old Avo shocks which raise it again significantly to the standard height and I have had no problems like you discribe other than on full lock reversing!!
5 mm spacers would solve this in my case as my offset is not quite right, tyre sits about 4 mm further in than it should.
As a judge for ride height I can get two fingers in between arch and tyre so a good 30 mm but that is slightly high for my preferred setting.
Check your bump stops are intact on your shocks because you shouldn't really bottom shocks or get the wheel touching the arch even with full compression. I'd look carefully at the lower wing where it wraps around the rigger corner for evidence of touching there as that's the closest mine comes on the 45/17 tyre's.
Classic Chim said:
Sorry, it just sounded a bit odd, you have rubbing and want us to tell you where to look.
Cool.
You have the same size as mine. Larger than standard. Do you get any rubbing on full lock.
I've raised my ride height and at the moment running old Avo shocks which raise it again significantly to the standard height and I have had no problems like you discribe other than on full lock reversing!!
5 mm spacers would solve this in my case as my offset is not quite right, tyre sits about 4 mm further in than it should.
As a judge for ride height I can get two fingers in between arch and tyre so a good 30 mm but that is slightly high for my preferred setting.
Check your bump stops are intact on your shocks because you shouldn't really bottom shocks or get the wheel touching the arch even with full compression. I'd look carefully at the lower wing where it wraps around the rigger corner for evidence of touching there as that's the closest mine comes on the 45/17 tyre's.
I get a rubbing when turning one way when going all the way to full lock - I'm just learning not to quite go all the way for the time being!Cool.
You have the same size as mine. Larger than standard. Do you get any rubbing on full lock.
I've raised my ride height and at the moment running old Avo shocks which raise it again significantly to the standard height and I have had no problems like you discribe other than on full lock reversing!!
5 mm spacers would solve this in my case as my offset is not quite right, tyre sits about 4 mm further in than it should.
As a judge for ride height I can get two fingers in between arch and tyre so a good 30 mm but that is slightly high for my preferred setting.
Check your bump stops are intact on your shocks because you shouldn't really bottom shocks or get the wheel touching the arch even with full compression. I'd look carefully at the lower wing where it wraps around the rigger corner for evidence of touching there as that's the closest mine comes on the 45/17 tyre's.
I've just quickly popped to the garage - I can barely get one finger in between the arch and tyre.
I then thought I'd give each side a push - the offside was a lot easier to push/pull and generally move around, so something's not quite right!
Only thing I've changed in that vicinity in my ownership is the upper ball joint...
I'll give it a proper look at the weekend.
^^^^^^^ 
Your top ball joints look fairly new
Those shock mounts are appalling buddy.
Those brakes are awesome
You'll not notice much by looking, get a few jimmy bars and tug and pull to check no bottom ball movement or other looseness under pressure from all joints incl wishbones as mounted to the body.
You need new shock bushes, might aswell get those shocks re conditioned and consider new springs or go after market but going by the bushes the shocks may be tired.
Your top ball joints look fairly new
Those shock mounts are appalling buddy.
Those brakes are awesome
You'll not notice much by looking, get a few jimmy bars and tug and pull to check no bottom ball movement or other looseness under pressure from all joints incl wishbones as mounted to the body.
You need new shock bushes, might aswell get those shocks re conditioned and consider new springs or go after market but going by the bushes the shocks may be tired.
Thanks for the replies!
You're very right, those shock mounts do not look good, on closer inspection there's definitely some movement there. Enough to cause the tyre to rub? I'm not so sure, but it needs sorting regardless.
Not sure why everything was painted over (it wasn't done by me). It doesn't creak under load, though.
Yep - I replaced the upper ball joint in April when I got the car as it was shot.
I think you're right on getting new shocks etc at the same time...it's quite annoying as I had lined up a set of Racing Reds (which seem to get very good press on here) but unfortunately it fell through - at least for a few months.
I obviously want to drive the car now though, so something needs to give.
I don't have the budget for nitrons...Gaz seem to get mixed reviews...perhaps protech?
Hmmm....
P.S. yes I'm very pleased with the brakes
You're very right, those shock mounts do not look good, on closer inspection there's definitely some movement there. Enough to cause the tyre to rub? I'm not so sure, but it needs sorting regardless.
Not sure why everything was painted over (it wasn't done by me). It doesn't creak under load, though.
Yep - I replaced the upper ball joint in April when I got the car as it was shot.
I think you're right on getting new shocks etc at the same time...it's quite annoying as I had lined up a set of Racing Reds (which seem to get very good press on here) but unfortunately it fell through - at least for a few months.
I obviously want to drive the car now though, so something needs to give.
I don't have the budget for nitrons...Gaz seem to get mixed reviews...perhaps protech?
Hmmm....
P.S. yes I'm very pleased with the brakes
That rubbing looks like it's when its turning as that's the closest my tyre comes to the arch.
I can only assume the cars sitting to low for the tyre size your using.
I know how good the brakes are
My tyre size is 215/45/17
Take a measurement of the front corner outrigger to floor. It should be around 150 mm if the ride height is correct. That might tell us where your shocks are.
I can only assume the cars sitting to low for the tyre size your using.
I know how good the brakes are
My tyre size is 215/45/17
Take a measurement of the front corner outrigger to floor. It should be around 150 mm if the ride height is correct. That might tell us where your shocks are.
Can you tell me what pads you've used on your Brembo brakes.
Quite an aggressive cut on the disc, they must stop
That paint ( if that's what it is ) on the hub faces needs removing. Those brakes might cause bad vibration coming down from high speed with that there. It can also cause wheel nuts to come loose. Bit extreme but true.
Only trying to help
Quite an aggressive cut on the disc, they must stop
That paint ( if that's what it is ) on the hub faces needs removing. Those brakes might cause bad vibration coming down from high speed with that there. It can also cause wheel nuts to come loose. Bit extreme but true.
Only trying to help
Edited by Classic Chim on Thursday 27th July 23:32
Edited by Classic Chim on Thursday 27th July 23:33
I don't really hear any rubbing when I turn, it's more when I hit a bump or similar and you can hear the tyre hitting the lining.
I'll take a measurement when I get a chance - I've got the same tyres/sizes as you.
Drop links seem to be OK, I'll check them again though.
I'm not actually sure what pads are used on the fronts - I only changed the rears when I got the car so the fronts are still what was left on it.
I'll let you know when I change them at some point
I think it's just a bit of corrosion and copper grease rather than paint on the hub face - I'll clean it up regardless, thanks.
PMd you as well!
I'll take a measurement when I get a chance - I've got the same tyres/sizes as you.
Drop links seem to be OK, I'll check them again though.
I'm not actually sure what pads are used on the fronts - I only changed the rears when I got the car so the fronts are still what was left on it.
I'll let you know when I change them at some point
I think it's just a bit of corrosion and copper grease rather than paint on the hub face - I'll clean it up regardless, thanks.
PMd you as well!
GR_TVR said:
I don't really hear any rubbing when I turn, it's more when I hit a bump or similar and you can hear the tyre hitting the lining.
I'll take a measurement when I get a chance - I've got the same tyres/sizes as you.
Drop links seem to be OK, I'll check them again though.
I'm not actually sure what pads are used on the fronts - I only changed the rears when I got the car so the fronts are still what was left on it.
I'll let you know when I change them at some point
I think it's just a bit of corrosion and copper grease rather than paint on the hub face - I'll clean it up regardless, thanks.
PMd you as well!
Change the pads,, I'll keep an eye out for this post in about 5 years time then, mine being standard BMW road pads look like they will go on for years I'll take a measurement when I get a chance - I've got the same tyres/sizes as you.
Drop links seem to be OK, I'll check them again though.
I'm not actually sure what pads are used on the fronts - I only changed the rears when I got the car so the fronts are still what was left on it.
I'll let you know when I change them at some point
I think it's just a bit of corrosion and copper grease rather than paint on the hub face - I'll clean it up regardless, thanks.
PMd you as well!
If that's grease your a star
Looking at it closer, sorry
Can you lower the car back onto its wheels, drive it or move the car back and fore and settle suspension down.
Then from the front of the car look under and towards your lower wish bones. They should be flat and level at rest, if anything they should be slightly lower at the hub than chassis mount.
Try taking a picture and posting it on here. If your springs are very tired the car might sit to low and an easy way to tell is the position of those lower wishbone arms in relation to the car. If they are flat and level the car is to low already IMO
Then from the front of the car look under and towards your lower wish bones. They should be flat and level at rest, if anything they should be slightly lower at the hub than chassis mount.
Try taking a picture and posting it on here. If your springs are very tired the car might sit to low and an easy way to tell is the position of those lower wishbone arms in relation to the car. If they are flat and level the car is to low already IMO
GR_TVR said:
Only thing I've changed in that vicinity in my ownership is the upper ball joint...
Looking at the pics it looks like the ball joint is out further than it should be. This is a problem with some after market ones at the bulbus bit is larger and won.t fit within the channel. This means that you can't set the camber correctly. So I wonder if you have some positive camber on that wheel and as tolerances are tight then this is causing rubbing. All you need is a very flat piece of ground and a spirit level. With the spirit level upright the top of the wheel should be further in than the bottom, ie, negative camber which is what you want.Pink_Floyd said:
Looking at the pics it looks like the ball joint is out further than it should be. This is a problem with some after market ones at the bulbus bit is larger and won.t fit within the channel. This means that you can't set the camber correctly. So I wonder if you have some positive camber on that wheel and as tolerances are tight then this is causing rubbing. All you need is a very flat piece of ground and a spirit level. With the spirit level upright the top of the wheel should be further in than the bottom, ie, negative camber which is what you want.
I'll certainly test this. I did buy from Powers who insisted it was the correct type. It did fit without an issue (I've heard of people having to grind away bits to get some ones to fit) so perhaps it's just the photos, but I will check it anyway.Now in possession of some protech shocks so will be getting those fitted...
Alun - you weren't joking about the bottom bolt on the fronts - f
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