Winter jobs - suspension rebuild
Discussion
I'm done. Pretty epic weekend working on it til 9 or 10 each night since Friday to get it into service and MOT today. Fiddled my hours to get most of Friday at it but only got a few hours in in the end, frustrating but family first.
Thanks again to everyone who's posted advice on here, it took a lot longer than I expected but very satisfying result. I've decided not to underseal it for now, see how it holds up over a few months and if the stone chipping starts to take its toll I might look for a more flexible white finish (epoxy mastic?) or have it undersealed ahead of next winter.
Pics...
On axle stands in a car park!!!
Thanks again to everyone who's posted advice on here, it took a lot longer than I expected but very satisfying result. I've decided not to underseal it for now, see how it holds up over a few months and if the stone chipping starts to take its toll I might look for a more flexible white finish (epoxy mastic?) or have it undersealed ahead of next winter.
Pics...
On axle stands in a car park!!!
Time to go at it again! Thought I'd just update here rather than start a new thread.
On inspection it's held up very well, back end looks clean and the front just has a couple of decent chips out of the paint on the end of the outriggers. Easily cleaned and touched in. I have a cunning plan to have a look at the bits you can't see but that'll have to wait until Amazon send me my present.
This winter's tasks make more of a disparate list. I want to get the courtesy light working and have the booster brackets to lift the passenger seat a touch. First though I have a leak into the drivers footwell and I noticed on a Car Limits day over the summer that the brake fluid reservoir cap evidently isn't sealing very well as it began weeping. I have a damaged outer sheath on the throttle cable so that's another one. Essentially I need to replace all the grommets and seals on the O/S inner wing. So how hard is
(1) new brake fluid reservoir (and where to source - its a Ford part is there a model / part No for the Ford dealer to go on?)
(2) throttle cable?
On inspection it's held up very well, back end looks clean and the front just has a couple of decent chips out of the paint on the end of the outriggers. Easily cleaned and touched in. I have a cunning plan to have a look at the bits you can't see but that'll have to wait until Amazon send me my present.
This winter's tasks make more of a disparate list. I want to get the courtesy light working and have the booster brackets to lift the passenger seat a touch. First though I have a leak into the drivers footwell and I noticed on a Car Limits day over the summer that the brake fluid reservoir cap evidently isn't sealing very well as it began weeping. I have a damaged outer sheath on the throttle cable so that's another one. Essentially I need to replace all the grommets and seals on the O/S inner wing. So how hard is
(1) new brake fluid reservoir (and where to source - its a Ford part is there a model / part No for the Ford dealer to go on?)
(2) throttle cable?
With regards to 1) the brake reservoir was originally from a mk3 fiesta xr2i. They are like rocking horse poo to source and if you can find them (or its equivalent replacement) then you are looking at about £100!
To remove and replace it, from my experience, you will have to remove the whole brake servo assembly from the inner wing and that will also need the removal of the pedal box and likely the steering column. It's the worst job I have tackled as for ease of access you also need to take the seat out.
Someone else may be able to advise differently but that was my experience.
Are you 100% sure it's leaking from the reservoir? The more common fault is the master cylinder leaking back into the brake servo. You are then into a whole different ball game.
With respect to 2) it's pretty easy to replace the throttle cable, especially if you are doing the above!
To remove and replace it, from my experience, you will have to remove the whole brake servo assembly from the inner wing and that will also need the removal of the pedal box and likely the steering column. It's the worst job I have tackled as for ease of access you also need to take the seat out.
Someone else may be able to advise differently but that was my experience.
Are you 100% sure it's leaking from the reservoir? The more common fault is the master cylinder leaking back into the brake servo. You are then into a whole different ball game.
With respect to 2) it's pretty easy to replace the throttle cable, especially if you are doing the above!
Not so 
it can be all done from under the bonnet removing nothing more than the clutch res cover/hatch , no special tools required although I recommend long and stubby metric spanners for the unions and a 3/8 drive lock socket extension for the M/C to servo nuts, really not an hard job in TVR terms
it can be all done from under the bonnet removing nothing more than the clutch res cover/hatch , no special tools required although I recommend long and stubby metric spanners for the unions and a 3/8 drive lock socket extension for the M/C to servo nuts, really not an hard job in TVR terms Sardonicus said:
Not so it can be all done from under the bonnet removing nothing more than the clutch res cover/hatch , no special tools required although I recommend long and stubby metric spanners for the unions and a 3/8 drive lock socket extension for the M/C to servo nuts, really not an hard job in TVR terms
I also find it useful to remove one or more of the grommets where the hoses and throttle cable go through the wing. You can get a spanner through and a pry bar to lift the reservoir. it can be all done from under the bonnet removing nothing more than the clutch res cover/hatch , no special tools required although I recommend long and stubby metric spanners for the unions and a 3/8 drive lock socket extension for the M/C to servo nuts, really not an hard job in TVR terms Steve
Steve_D said:
I also find it useful to remove one or more of the grommets where the hoses and throttle cable go through the wing. You can get a spanner through and a pry bar to lift the reservoir.
Steve
Steve
Yes should of mentioned that IIRC I removed the servo vacuum pipe and barbed stub too , good time to renew those grommets also, also remove foot well carpet and fill with some kitchen towel or old towel because try as you might you will get some fluid loss from the M/C ports when you pull off the res from the brake M/C inc the pipe ports just wash this spilt brake-fluid away with some warm water from above this will then just drain into the drivers foot well doing no harm your rags/cloths can just wick it up Great tips, thanks. Basically when I bought the car 2 years ago near enough, it had bubbling paint on the inner wing from the front of the reservoir down to the black. I thought just a careless fill, and no sign of anything sinister until Car Limits in August. Having given the brakes some punishment it is now weeping fluid from the cap. Fluid collects in the mastic channel (which has now been undermined) and comes back when mopped up. Maybe a new cap is all that's required, but if it were a case of a common as muck old Ford reservoir for £20 or something, may as well do the lot. Presumably Ford didn't have a bespoke cap for the XR2i ....
ianwayne said:
I got the top ball joints for £23 the pair. Make sure they are for a Saab 99 and the photo shows they are round with adjustment possible for camber at the top wishbone.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BALL-JOINT-PAIR-UPPER-A...
I know this post is 12 months old, but does that eBay listing still list the correct parts?https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BALL-JOINT-PAIR-UPPER-A...
Edited by ianwayne on Tuesday 7th November 21:28
Thread update and some new questions.
After 2 seasons and around 6,000 miles the underside is looking much like it does above. A few chips to touch in last winter and this, and now the new track rod ends and upper ball joints have started to corrode but otherwise it is all good. I will put some pictures up in due course.
I found a Mk2 Fiesta brake fluid reservoir and master cylinder on ebay for £40, it wasn't exactly the right one but went in OK. The in/out pipes were in a different location. The problemw with the old one was not the cap but the reservoir itself had split under the bonnet vent, presumably 20 years of UV and heat.
Currently I'm on the Suburu PAS rack conversion, then it will be valley gasket, coolant system overhaul, fuel hoses and oil change.
Question: sealants for the rocker covers and valley gasket. I have some VAG white silicone from my TT days (was used for sump, but the same stuff goes on top too), and some red Elring rocker cover sealant from the current Saab which is much fresher stuff. Can I use this or do I need to buy yet another tube of a RV8 specific sealant?
Is there anything else I will need:
Rocker cover gaskets (pair)
Valley gasket (kit)
Oil
Filter
Sealant
Oh and here's another one: The mesh slam panel is untidy and needs replacing. Does it just slide out or is there a windscreen bottom seal problem?
After 2 seasons and around 6,000 miles the underside is looking much like it does above. A few chips to touch in last winter and this, and now the new track rod ends and upper ball joints have started to corrode but otherwise it is all good. I will put some pictures up in due course.
I found a Mk2 Fiesta brake fluid reservoir and master cylinder on ebay for £40, it wasn't exactly the right one but went in OK. The in/out pipes were in a different location. The problemw with the old one was not the cap but the reservoir itself had split under the bonnet vent, presumably 20 years of UV and heat.
Currently I'm on the Suburu PAS rack conversion, then it will be valley gasket, coolant system overhaul, fuel hoses and oil change.
Question: sealants for the rocker covers and valley gasket. I have some VAG white silicone from my TT days (was used for sump, but the same stuff goes on top too), and some red Elring rocker cover sealant from the current Saab which is much fresher stuff. Can I use this or do I need to buy yet another tube of a RV8 specific sealant?
Is there anything else I will need:
Rocker cover gaskets (pair)
Valley gasket (kit)
Oil
Filter
Sealant
Oh and here's another one: The mesh slam panel is untidy and needs replacing. Does it just slide out or is there a windscreen bottom seal problem?
Edited by 2gins on Sunday 9th February 09:52
Mesh panel, fixed to bulk head via usually 2/ 3 rivets, look under your windscreen base rubber and you’ll find them. Drill them out and bobs your uncle.
It just slides out from under the windscreen rubber. I used plenty of washing up liquid when feeding it back in.
Dab some sealant into holes before using new rivets and it won’t leak into car from there. Mine was just riveted so yet another leap point from the day it left the factory. Small things like this are really unforgivable considering what it takes to produce the car.
It just slides out from under the windscreen rubber. I used plenty of washing up liquid when feeding it back in.
Dab some sealant into holes before using new rivets and it won’t leak into car from there. Mine was just riveted so yet another leap point from the day it left the factory. Small things like this are really unforgivable considering what it takes to produce the car.
Classic Chim said:
Mesh panel, fixed to bulk head via usually 2/ 3 rivets, look under your windscreen base rubber and you’ll find them. Drill them out and bobs your uncle.
It just slides out from under the windscreen rubber. I used plenty of washing up liquid when feeding it back in.
Dab some sealant into holes before using new rivets and it won’t leak into car from there. Mine was just riveted so yet another leap point from the day it left the factory. Small things like this are really unforgivable considering what it takes to produce the car.
I was hoping it was just the rivets (and washer hoses etc), good stuff thanks!It just slides out from under the windscreen rubber. I used plenty of washing up liquid when feeding it back in.
Dab some sealant into holes before using new rivets and it won’t leak into car from there. Mine was just riveted so yet another leap point from the day it left the factory. Small things like this are really unforgivable considering what it takes to produce the car.
Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff