Discussion
Managed to clean around reluctor and magnet and check wiring from dizzy to amp - all coming in around 1.6 ohm. Small wiring loom on back of amp bracket is 1.6 ohm.
Curiously the dizzy to amp cable has wiring has 2 pins/ wires at dizzy (red blue) but 3 pins (extra black wire) at amp side but no obvious route for it.
Not had time for a tow.
Did notice the wires at alarm plug (large black ones) are frayed/weak. Weak spark candidate?
Curiously the dizzy to amp cable has wiring has 2 pins/ wires at dizzy (red blue) but 3 pins (extra black wire) at amp side but no obvious route for it.
Not had time for a tow.
Did notice the wires at alarm plug (large black ones) are frayed/weak. Weak spark candidate?
Checking the resistance won't help much, 1.6 Ohms resistance in a short cable is far too high but the chances are that the multimeter shows a resistance reading when you connect its test leads together, you need to deduct the resistance shown when connecting the test leads together from any measurements taken, there is also a very good chance that the meter isn't very accurate
In summary - Dont measure the resistance as your findings will throw you off track, "Volts" its all about volts and volt drops from the start of a circuit to the end of a circuit
Below is an image that will explain what the mystery 3rd cable is
In summary - Dont measure the resistance as your findings will throw you off track, "Volts" its all about volts and volt drops from the start of a circuit to the end of a circuit
Below is an image that will explain what the mystery 3rd cable is
What are the chances of 2 x 10:51 AM Posts to this topic?
Number of posters to TVR Forum divided by number of sections in TVR forum minus those that just finished a night shift =??? Minus those not interested in the topic or that don't have the knowledge to help =??? Minus those with a hangover =??? Minus those still in bed =???
Slim chance or not???
Number of posters to TVR Forum divided by number of sections in TVR forum minus those that just finished a night shift =??? Minus those not interested in the topic or that don't have the knowledge to help =??? Minus those with a hangover =??? Minus those still in bed =???
Slim chance or not???
Any ideas how to release round pin on alarm plug (harness side - male) so I can fix the frayed wires?
And while we're at it with a multimeter, and note I'm enjoying this, I know one of the coil -ve (b&w + rectangle resistor) wires tells the ecu the engine is turning to pulse injectors. Could do with knowing which ecu pin to check that's ok. Might as well keep ruling out the easier ones.
And while we're at it with a multimeter, and note I'm enjoying this, I know one of the coil -ve (b&w + rectangle resistor) wires tells the ecu the engine is turning to pulse injectors. Could do with knowing which ecu pin to check that's ok. Might as well keep ruling out the easier ones.
Edited by Chimp871 on Monday 29th January 13:05
managed to do more checks today:
Repaired frayed alarm wiring on plug - made no difference
Checked AFM - possible problem - on ignition jumps to 0.8v and then takes 4 secs to drop to 0.4v (I quickly repeat it, it goes straight to 0.4v)
Distributor - removed cover under arm to clean reluctor and reset points to 0.25mm. This did then produce a strong spark on the king lead, so promising.
Plugs are out for cleaning so check tomorrow if I'm heading in the right direction.
But, and I don't know how to explain this
but I checked for approx TDC on cylinder 1 and at the rotor arm is NOT at #1 lead on dizzy cap 
as per bible. It's one cylinder before 
I appear to have a different lead config! can someone check the picture which was from my car a couple of years ago when all was good. The bible has the clip separating #1 and #8 leads, mine is separating #4 and #8. I didn't know there could be different setup..... if so I I'll be
Repaired frayed alarm wiring on plug - made no difference
Checked AFM - possible problem - on ignition jumps to 0.8v and then takes 4 secs to drop to 0.4v (I quickly repeat it, it goes straight to 0.4v)
Distributor - removed cover under arm to clean reluctor and reset points to 0.25mm. This did then produce a strong spark on the king lead, so promising.
Plugs are out for cleaning so check tomorrow if I'm heading in the right direction.
But, and I don't know how to explain this
but I checked for approx TDC on cylinder 1 and at the rotor arm is NOT at #1 lead on dizzy cap as per bible. It's one cylinder before I appear to have a different lead config! can someone check the picture which was from my car a couple of years ago when all was good. The bible has the clip separating #1 and #8 leads, mine is separating #4 and #8. I didn't know there could be different setup..... if so I I'll be
Hedgehopper said:
I' m sure you must have checked that the leads are in the correct order several times but is no.1 lead on the distributor cap the one the rotor arm points to when no.1 piston is approaching TDC on the compression stroke?
Sounds obvious but very easy to have the leads in the correct order but starting from the wrong cap contact.
The distributor has a dozen or so teeth on the end of the driveshaft, so when it is refitted in place, after removal, there are a dozen or so different positions it could be in. In practice the protruding vacuum unit narrows this down to just a couple of possible positions. Your distributor may well be one position out to the 'bible' but that won't matter. As I suggested before, find out which contact the rotor arm points to just before TDC and start installing your no.1 plug lead and so on from there.Sounds obvious but very easy to have the leads in the correct order but starting from the wrong cap contact.
I hope this helps, l can understand how frustrated you must be by now.....good luck.
We're up and running.
The weak spark I can only put down to the distributor reluctor ring (the sprocket that passes an electromagent under the dizzy rotor arm cover) being either rusty or the gap to the magnet was too far. I couldn't remove the sprocket but cleaned in situ and the king lead spark became strong again.
The fact my firing position (not the firing order that was fine) wasn't per the bible was throwing me off.
Many thanks for the input and advice,
Edited by Chimp871 on Monday 5th February 13:20
Chimp871 said:
Thanks Steve. Checking signal to ecu was next on my list...... And may still be but I'm liking the spark so hope not.
Is it normal for the wire to change colour like that?
There are some connectors between the engine loom and the body loom. The engine loom is basically Rover and the body loom is TVR. There are quite a few colour changes from one side to the other.Is it normal for the wire to change colour like that?
Steve
Chimp871 said:
We're up and running.
The weak spark I can only put down to the distributor reluctor ring (the sprocket that passes an electromagent under the dizzy rotor arm cover) being either rusty or the gap to the magnet was too far. I couldn't remove the sprocket but cleaned in situ and the king lead spark became strong again.
The fact my firing position (not the firing order that was fine) wasn't per the bible was throwing me off.
Many thanks for their input and advice,
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